pparaska

Way to go Jim! Did you happen to see that Doug F that posts there is an engineer and has an email address at Holley.com? Sounds to me that he has a big hand in designing their EFI intakes! He's talking about offering a killer SBC intake for high horsepower engines. grumpyvette has been very helpful on the "performance" forum on chevytalk.com, as have others. If you have high-po chevy questions, those two forums on that site are excellent, IMO. [ October 28, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

JAMIE, that DREAM Z IS going to be awesome!

Is it like the one my buddy made 5 years ago? A length of tool steel rod, close to the same diameter as spindle pin, and drilled and threaded on the end to screw onto the end of the spindle pin. Add a 3 lb hammer and it worked great.

Even with a mild solid cam (270 solid lifter Comp cam) in my 327, with hooker block huggers, 2.5" duals, X-pipe, Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo mufflers, I could still hear the slight lope of the cam. Remember, alot of the lopiness comes from the exhaust pipes and header pipes "pinking" as it idles, not just out of the tail pipe.

I'd rather buck up for the shallow Canton pan. Yes, as Kim pointed out a week ago or so, the low pan height is a significant drawback to the JTR setup with a lowered car.

Jim, what's interesting is that FI is impressed with the OLD 4Di system that they are referencing there. I wonder how they feel about the Commander 950 series of MPFI? I agree about piecemeal costs to put a V8 system together (unless you can find some HUGE bargains used). I started pricing different parts from Accel, Holley, etc. and the total system price was considerably more than the system price from either company.

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Carb, I've changed my views lately I think to the camp that says SLIGHTLY bigger is better. I'd go with a 750cfm Holley since your using a open plenum manifold. Lone, I agree, as long as you're going with a vacuum secondary carb, a 750 on a 350 works well. Heck, the primaries flow less than a Rochester 2 barrel! And the 3310 is a much nicer design than the smaller side hung float carbs, IMO.

They look great - that's a great looking design. Against that nice body work and paint, it really does look awesome!

Yes, I've heard of it. Carl and Les will probably both be able to write a chapter on it .

Sure it can be done. All that's needed is a custom bellhousing. In other words, yes, but not cheap! Never seen it done. Anything can be done with enough money. No, it probably won't hold up for very long if you hammer the pedal with the 350 in there and do any kind of rough takeoffs or shifting.

Search for T-5, T5, WC etc. in the drivetrain forum - this topic has gotten alot of mileage. Even though the T-5 is rated for 305 lbft, the light Z helps it live. There are several fast Z's that don't have problems and aren't breaking them, but some have. Alternatives are the later F-body T-56 (93-97?) and the Tremec TR-3550 series that a few outfits convert for GM use.

As the disc gets larger in diameter, the tolerances would go UP proportionally, so it'd be easier to make, in that sense. I'd think you'd want a rotary table and a punch to do it with though. That's why I think putting it IN a distributor would be easier.

Jim, I've made up my mind. If I had $2400 to drop on EFI, I'd just do the easy thing and buy the Holley Commander 950 MPFI. Sure others out there may be just as good for $2000 (Edelbrock Pro-Flo), or have better control (Motec), but staying below $2500 and having datalogging and laptop tunability are my requirements. But it's a HUGE chuck of change that I'm not willing to do at this point.

I got their catalog, and made a template of the footprint of the bottom of that pan. I held it up to mine and I think it'd be quite easy to mount that pan and then run exhaust around it with room to spare using block huggers. I sure wish I'd done that pan first, and then built my exhaust.

If the red are the reverse switch (I can't remember which is which), then the green is the neutral safety switch hookup. PLEASE hook this up. We've already heard from one guy who didn't and has a fence imprint on his car .

With that cam, you'll need 10:1 or more to have any dynamic cylinder pressure. I think that's the problem. Thinner head gasket might solve SOME of this.

Here's the Canton pan Ross is talking about. http://cmfilters.com/pr_source/pr_15240.html Canton Racing Products 232 Branford Road North Branford, CT 06471 Parts Ordering 203-481-9460 Tech Support 203-481-9943 Fax 203-481-9641 That pan is made for C1 through C4 vettes, meaning different models for old to new small blocks. This pan is THE ticket for road racing, as far as I've heard. Nice thing about it is that it is 7" deep instead of 7.5" like the OE pan. I think they may have a 6.5" deep version also. Note that if you run block huggers and the pipes come straight down off the collector flange, you will hit this pan's kickouts. But I've seen a pic of someone (here?) with a V8Z and one of these pans and I think they used blockhuggers, but ran the exhaust away from the pan.

I remember years ago when that list spun off of John DeArmond's Hotrod list. That was a great list too. Yeah, after the first few years, I gave up even saving the unread DIYEFI digests. Jim, I bet the inner 4 slots are to tell the computer where the engine is in relation to cylinder number. And the 360 are to tell in fine detail where it is and what the rpm are. I agree that if you were to make similar wheels larger with proportionally the same size slots, you could build a crank trigger wheel and have leds/sensors to do the same thing. The problem would be dirt, etc. So magnets and hall effect sensors and the correct circuitry to mesh with the GMECU would be needed. I like the idea of putting the wheel and sensor in a distributor house, but then you have cam rotational harmonics that MIGHT play havock with it at high rpm. Just talking out of my ... well you know.

Scottie, that's great. Can you explain why you went with their shocks? I've never heard of them, but I imagine you have done a bunch of research and will tell us why you made that decision. Sounds like they really know what customer service is! BTW, just for other's info, when I bought my coilover stuff from Carrera, they offered to swap the springs if they were not a good rate for me, as long as I had not used them for more than a month. It's great working with people like that!

Mike, it looks Great! That sounds like a ton of work - I know who you feel. I actually think you have more work in front of you than I do. I can't wait for my first ride in your Z!

82racecar, I think you mentioned somewhere else that you want to put an "85 Camaro toploader 5 spd trans" in the car. That'd be the WC T-5. That trans can work but if you abuse it or try to ram LOTS of torque through it, it may not last. If you are going with anything but an auto, the JTR placement works out better, since with the Scarab placement, the shifter for the T-5 comes up where the fuse box is. The JTR mounts the engine/trans almost 4" rearward in placement, so it works better for the T-5 install. I know Kim said it but I was just elaborating a bit.

The JTR parts are $70. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Stealth.html#datsun The Scarab mounts are still available from Hooker, as well as the headers, as far as I know. There's always John's Cars for a Scarab placement too, but that's an expensive kit. Kim makes the Scarab type mounts sound easy to make though.

There are part number / casting number bookds available, although I've never looked at one closely. There are sites on the internet that have parts of them (ahem) copied into web pages. Try a search for "casting number" and see what comes up. One is: http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm That will help with the block and head casting numbers. As far as manifold numbers, I'm not sure they are even present on the GM parts, but might be. Anyway, that mortec site should help seeing what block and heads are on that puppy. Good Luck,

That seems like alot of extra effort and money to save what's a bit of rotating weight. Sure it'll rev higher, but unless you're going for really high hp/displacement ratio, I don't see the need. Plus, a stock 305 crank won't last at that high rpm and power level anyway. BTW, check the following site that lists bore dimensions for the 327 and 350: http://www.mortec.com/borstrok.htm Look at the 11th and 12th line. Sure looks to me like the 327 and the 350 have the SAME bore. So boring a 350 block .040" over will make a 327 0.040" over piston fit just right. It WON'T fall out on the floor. [ October 25, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

That's weird. I got a new fan for a 98 Mustang GT and it IS two speed. High speed draws 35 AMPS! It almost shreds a piece of notebook paper trying to suck it through the A/C condensor and radiator on high!