pparaska

GREAT STUFF! Makes me almost want to buy a VW just to support their ads

I didn't notice anywhere that he said it had 198,000 miles on it - I read too fast I suppose. But then again, it may hold up for a while even still!

tony, I don't think starting and stopping during the cam breakin is a big deal. In fact, I think it's sometimes a good idea, so you can fix a leak, etc. Yeah, after a hundred miles, I'd change the oil and filter.

Mike, I understand. Just busting your chops a bit. The weight difference in the old truck block to the LS1 block was not that huge, considering the weight of the Vette and the increased thrust from the Cubes, IMO. But I'd be looking at the Warhawk block these days. $4000 seems like a lot for a block, but I'd save pennies for that to be able to go to 450+ cubes.

I'm pretty sure the differences you're seeing is a design change that is documented on the Innovate forums. Search for "Failure" on that site.

To further hijack Mike's thread: Coleman Racing: Sonic/Tilton Bellhousing PN 12003 $333 (Well, I'm guessing, since it has the same product description as the Tilton catalog: http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=50_390&products_id=10112 Didn't find the release bearing. But that price is not really competitive, so forget them.

I can't ADD anything useful that Scottie or others didn't write. (GREAT post Scottie!) I'd personally turbo the V6 for that power level requirement. But like Scottie points out, be careful of parts selection, AND HOW MUCH YOU TURN UP THE BOOST. There are many times people get too overzealous and want a bit more push in the back and turn the boost up too high and waste the engine.

That TOBearing I mentioned above mounts into special bolting holes in that specific bellhousing, which are just outside of the register hole for the input shaft bearing retainer. I guess if you were industrious, you could get it to mount in the T-5 bellhousing, with machining, etc. But Tilton and others have solutions that would work better. Take a look at page 46 of the Tilton catalog for their solution to using a stock bellhousing. You'd buy the 61-601 hydraulic release bearing (HRB) (to work with a 10.5" clutch PP) and the 61-615 "base assembly" for the Camaro T-5. The base assembly replaces the input shaft bearing retainer on the T-6 and provides the correct mounting place for the 61-601 HRB.

Yes, I can confirm it's fixed. I got an email notification of Dan's post above. Thanks, Dan!

Ditto. No email notification of threads I'm subscribed to, posted to even within the day, and get responded to after that. This used to work a week ago.

Thanks, John. BTW, PitstopUSA sent me a canned response that they will be getting back to me in 24 hours, which is tomorrow. CVproducts got back to me in less than 8 hours (I've had great experiences with these guys, quick, knowledgeable, and the pricing is always competitive): "We have the bellhousing in stock for 295.40. The TO bearing would be 148.75, but I would need to order it." jrmotorsports just got back to me and was considerably higher than any price I've found on the web yet.: "TIL 12003 $359.99. I have this bell housing in stock. TIL 20015 $162.99 this will not be available for 4-6 weeks." I'll keep shopping.

Yeah, yeah. Kind of hard to make custom headers when you car is in the body shop! I don't know what year I'll get to that. But Glenn needs a tranny bad (his slushbox died and he needs a manual anyway). So I'm selling him my setup minuse flywheel and PP, and going with the G-Force T-5, that bellhousing and HRB above, and a new disc. The flange on my Lakewood bellhousing hung down too low. By cutting it off parallel to the ground, and flush with the bottom of the bellhousing "bell", it's about as low as a stock 7.5" deep oilpan. But like you point out the 153tooth Sonic bellhousing I show above should help with long-tube header clearance also... I'm really looking around for lower prices. CVProducts quoted 295 for the bellhousing, 149 for the HRB. The problem is you need to contact all of the race type suppliers since they only list the small diameter bellhousings for 5.5 and 7.25" clutch setups, etc. I'm doing that now. I will check these. But what's SCP?

Mike called me the other night to admit it too. I laughed histerically for a minute or so .

Here they are (the Chevy ones): pre-86 SBC 15lb flywheel: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/884/products/2118/1985-Earlier-SBC-BBC-Nodular-Iron-Lightweight-Flywheel-12-3-4-in.htm post-85 SBC 15lb flywheel: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/884/products/8202/1986-Up-SB-Chevy-Nodular-Iron-Lightweight-Flywheel-12-3-4-in.htm As usual, the old SBC stuff is DIRT CHEAP.

Actually, there's a 2 pc seal 15 lb nodular iron flywheel from Chevy. I don't have the part number handy though. That's the one I use. With a 10.5" clutch hat, it's a "bit" light, but I don't find it that bad. With a lumpy cam, it just takes getting used to, when taking off from a stop. Rev it a bit and slip the clutch a bit is all that's needed. Nothing that's going to severely limit clutch life or overheat anything. Go with a 153 flywheel. That allows you to go with a smaller bell housing that will make it easier to fit without bumping the tunnel sheetmetal, and also allows more room for exhaust. I'm getting ready to buy the Sonic 24 lb bellhousing, made small for better ground clearance, etc. Must use 153 tooth flywheel with it: http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=273&m=d Coleman has it for $334 http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=50_390&products_id=10112 Cheers, Pete

LOL QFT - had to look that one up! http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=QFT I think he means "QFT, brutha" , not "QFT, you Mutha F#$@#r!" in this case

When I was in college, my Z had a fire in the interior while we were welding in floor pans. The paint on the roof and sail panels were toast. The rest of the car was kind of dull, not too bad. After bodywork, I hit the roof and quarters with about a dozen spray cans of automotive spray can paint. BAD orange peel, but hey, it was 110 red/orange! Anyway, a bit of wet sanding and the paint I had put on was smoother and shinier than the rest of the car! Didn't look have bad, really.

Well, I'll say this much: Nothing wrong with an Integra for a daily driver. Good little fun car. Never leave you stranded. And about 1 million times better looking than that freaking Scion xB!!!!! JMO

My garage is part of the house - the master bedroom is right above it. I don't like this layout, as it's unsafe. If I burn the garage down, there goes the house! Also, fumes get into the house from the garage, no matter how well I've sealed things up - going in to use the facilities is an issue. Anyway, for this reason, I wanted to do something both more capable for heat output and with less/no fumes than the old Kerosun kerosene heater. I looked at propane heaters, but the deal with having to refill, the possible fire hazard and fumes kept me away. I found a great solution, for me anyway. A 230V 20.2AMP electric "construction site" heater. It can warm the 25x20x9' garage from 50 to 65 in about 1/2 hour. Fairly quiet, and has a thermostat. I'm very happy with it, and would suggest it as an alternative to burning fuels in the garage. Here's a link to the place I bought it: http://www.shopfnc.com/qmbrh402.htm I bought the BRH562. (note that the above site has the voltage switched in the specs, here are the correct specs): Model#_Volts__Watts_______BTU/HR____Amps BRH562_240/208_5600/4200_19,110/14,33_23.3 / 20.2 19,110 BTU/HR is fine for a typical 2-car garage, IMO. If I'm out in the garage for 8 hours on a 30s-40s day outside, it takes about 30-45 minutes to get into the 60s from about the high 40s, and then only comes on maybe 10-20% of the rest of the time. That's like 15-20 kWh, which on my "off-peak, non-summer" rate (currently 0.03252 $/kWh) is about 50 to 65 cents for the whole day! Even if it stayed on the whole 8 hr stint, it'd be $1.45.

Thanks, Kevin, for keeping us in the loop!

Related thread: I'm going to be moving on doing a G-Force T-5 in the next months : http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99499&page=2 I'll update there on the progress and results. Pete