pparaska

The article references this patent: http://patimg1.uspto.gov/.piw?docid=US004802639&SectionNum=1&IDKey=3444EF75AA66&HomeUrl=http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2%2526Sect2=HITOFF%2526p=1%2526u=/netahtml/search-bool.html%2526r=1%2526f=G%2526l=50%2526co1=AND%2526d=ptxt%2526s1=4,802,639.WKU.%2526OS=PN/4,802,639%2526RS=PN/4,802,639

All that stuff and a "Hand" tool box filled with all the tools you can. I've done shorter trips in my Z where I carried such a box full of tools and the tools in the box got USED.

CenterForce pisses me off that they won't sell just the DF disc. Not to worry, McLeod's Performance Pressure plate is a "Dual Friction" type of design, with Kevlar on one side. I'm using one (10.5") with a Camaro 1LE pressure plate (easy pedal pressure) and it has held up well behind the 327 and 400.

The problem with the Stage 8 lock bolts is that the ALUMINUM locking plate deforms and gets stuck on the fastener. They can be a real pain to remove after thousands of miles. I ended up destroying a bunch of them. I think a better way to go is the Brezlin locking bolts. BTW, the Sanderson headers that JTR sells (Very Cheap too!) don't use a gasket, but they do user ULTRA BLACK RTV. This works great - no leaks, even with regular non locking bolts!

I just saw this and watched all of the excellent videos! I LOVE the work you're doing on the videos as much as the work on the car! Your sense of humor is great and the editing and effects are really enjoyable! As I was watching all the work, I was really inspired that you have such great guys working on the car at SCE. They are incredible! Oh, for a newbie body solder guy, you look pretty godd at it!. Thanks for documenting everything! I'll hit the mull.tk site and look at some more pics, etc, even though I can't read the language. Watching the vids and seeing all that rust really brought back memories. I had to replace just about all the stuff you guys did, save for one or two little places. What memories! I'm glad it's over now! I especially like how you would cut some, and then decide to cut a bunch more and just replace large areas wholesale. Brings back memories!

Mike doesn't mess around on this stuff, huh? Way to go Mike. Happy House Hunting!

I just read that they are going to stop making the GTO this summer. http://www.freep.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060221/NEWS11/60221011 There might be a run on them in the Spring for that reason, or a bunch being almost given away. Too bad it's 3700+ lbs. But even still, a decent "family" car .

Mike, I understand wanting to not have neighbors right on top of you, wanting a newer place, more land, boat dock, BIGGER GARAGE, etc. However, how much longer of a commute to the DC area is it? Are you sure you'll never be working up that way again? I can't see how you can stay out of the DC area for work in your field, but what do I know. What I'm getting at is that I'm afraid you'd be saddling yourself for a very long commute if you had to go to DC a few times a week to talk with the big sponsors, etc. Also, you're used to the amenities that a city provides, and the CHOICE and WIDE selection of businesses (how about that great welding shop you took me too?) What I'm getting at is be sure you are willing to give that up before you move out into the country. How about a place with a bit more land for each home near or in F'burg?

For Vibrations, I agree, it makes the car very unnerving at WOT. A.G. Olphart linked to my drivelinemods page - there's a bunch of detail on how I moved the transmission tail up, the differential nose down, and the differential tail up to get 1 degree vertical driveshaft angles. My Z has no vibration issues. The thing that REALLY irritates me about my Z is the huge amount of play in the gears (I believe it's mostly the spider gears) in the differential. Let off the gas and bang. Get on it after coasting and bang. I HATE that. And the diff is polyurethane mounted front and rear. The last thing is the fumes. And I don't mean exhaust fumes. Gasoline fumes. The vapor tank must have a slight leak because the car has ALL new fuel hoses back there and everything is tight. I'm going to solve that shortly by removing the vapor tank and all the hoses.

I know I tried to say something to the effect of "reverse the louver openings ... for a smoother appearance." But people aren't understanding that this was the plan from the beginning. The louvers would be punched so that the lip was inside of the car, with the opening pointed down. The outside would not have louvers protruding, but be smooth, with only rectangular holes, nothing protruding to catch rocks, your fingers as you washed it, etc. I'm obviously not great at getting the detailed points across. 2 columns, at an angle is what Terry PM'd to me as a solution. they'd be angled toward the centerline from top to bottom. Yes, with wider ones I agree it'd look better. But I don't have access to anything but a 3" or 4" punch. Wayne, everyone saying don't do it - rest easy now . I'm calling the body shop on Monday to say for get about it. The rear panel hasn't even shown up yet (and it's been ordered for 3 weeks now - come on Charlie - ship that thing!!!! )

The in-tank module I refer to above involves cutting a hole in the top of the tank and welding it in there. This way you don't have hoses hanging down for johnny law to bother you about, and you have a swirl pot IN the tank, with a high-pressure pump being cooled by the fuel, and the fuel stays by the pump to keep your EFI out of fuel starvation.

Bartman: Not everything the bling crowd does is unique thinking or even originated by them Louvers have been around since the 1920s on hotrods. As far as making them wider, that's not an option, as the guys don't have but the one punch. But wider might be better than a bunch of narrow ones. Z-Rex: There's really no room for a diffuser with the stock tank and rear panel. jmortenson: The last thing I'd want to do to this Z is make it look "NASCAR"

I guess this is one good reason to stock up on used, from the junkyard 280ZX CV shafts. I have a few extra sets I'll hold onto. When you get them out of a 280ZX, they have usually never been touched since the car was built. That way you have the correct length parts. Then again, I'll probably move to something different in the future (R230, or R200 with custom shafts like Terry is doing).

Just an FYI, it's not legal in many US States to have that sump on the gas tank, with the hoses coming out of it. I've ordered a "T.P.I. OPTION" in-tank fuel "trap" with pump, wiring, etc. to install in the "tall" side of the 73 240Z tank. It's ordered, but I don't have it yet. From their catalog: They've been building EFI tanks for cars for decades and assure me this will hold the fuel in the trap. I spoke with Don there and he says that the trap is a stainless can with a bottom to it, and a 1/4" slit from top to bottom. The fact that the return fuel dumps back into the trap helps keep it full also. Anyway, I had it made so that it's about 9" tall overall, so that I can put a recess in the top of the tank to be able to clear the underside of the car. The wires and fuel lines come out of the top, so this will allow room (2" recess) for that stuff. Although I can MIG weld, I'm considering brazing this thing in, or tack welding it and using a good gasoline safe sealant to do the sealing instead of relying on my welding or brazing skills. Anyway, this might work out, I'll let you know how it works once installed. I had thought of using an external low pressure pump, surge tank, high pressure pump, but decided to simplify things and let the fuel cool the pump as well. As far as venting, I was thinking of leaving one of the top vents open on the tank and running it to the filler hose. I WILL get rid of that vapor tank in the car - they all seem to leak a tiny bit and stink up the car. I have all new hoses in my Z, but it still stinks inside. Enough of that!

Well, after listening to the responses hear and thinking about it, I think I'll just leave the panel "clean".

The edges of the louvers would be INSIDE the car, forward of the rear panel metal. But really, don't worry about telling me not to do this. I'm wondering myself whether to do it and that's why I'm asking here.

You know, I was looking at these a few minutes ago, and that same kind of thought ocurred to me. Maybe just a 2 columns?

I was looking at the pictures in the latest "Popular Hotrodding Magazine" that has the orange 'Cuda on the cover ("Baddest Musclecar Ever") and liked the louvers they put on either side of the diffuser. I've read that there is air trapped behind the rear panel, and thought that I might have the body shop do something similar since they're putting a new rear panel on the car. I've taken the best rear on photo I had of my Z and doctored it a bit with louvers. Actually, it's a photo of the rear end after it was hit. I "fixed" the rear panel below the bumper and "painted" it all the same color. Note that the bumper is pushed down, and will actually be put back on a bit higher, so there is some more room above the louvers I "installed". Anyway, here are the "photos" of what I have in mind. I believe it's a 4 or 5" punch they have, so I kind of eyeballed it for that size. I'm not sure how much the louvers will cost to punch, but I imagine the charge is by the louver. They would be punched in from the back of the panel, so that the opening is downward and inside the under area of the car. Please give me some feedback on the number of "columns" of louvers that look better/best, etc. Why one looks better than the others, what you'd change, etc. Or whether you think I should do this at all! Cheers, Pete http://alteredz.com/image/body/7columns3rowsAboveExh.JPG http://alteredz.com/image/body/6columns3rowsAboveExh.JPG http://alteredz.com/image/body/5columns3rowsAboveExh.JPG

jbk - no offense taken. I just wanted to be clear about what we are after here.

24s, but fuel only at the moment - will go to EDIS by Summer

Very cool!

Thanks for deleting it, although I don't recall how big it was. Do you have a small sized one you'd like? The moderators are working on a recommended max size (we used to have one that the software enforced, I thought). But the issue is both the number of pixel in each direction, and the actual file byte size. Personally, I decided years ago to do away with a signature picture, and just use a decent sized avatar instead.

Looks Great!

Ewww. Not quite that ancient. I'm not even THAT old (Close though!) Mike wants to retire early. But now he sees that his hobbies mean that he'll need a HUGE retirement bundle to do that without worrying or getting bored because he can't DO his hobbies. Mike, I'd take a few months off at this point. It's been one of those weeks that I really hate my job. I'm glad to hear you're doing better with your situation though. That stress, no one needs

Gordon Murray had great things to say about it in a recent Road & Track, if that adds anything. Looks like a neat track car to me! S2000 Bahhh!