Chewievette
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Posts posted by Chewievette
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There was a chrysler concept car a while back, I forget what they called it, that had two neon four cyls bolted together with a special adapter that made it look like one engine. Since the cranks were bolted together it acted just like a straight eight. You might look into something similar for your car, lighter weight, newer technology. I've always wanted to do a V16 like that, but I've got nothing to put it in.
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Could import I one of those from Canada to the US? Would it be easier than importing direct from Japan to US?
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We got down to about $2.02 a few weeks back but its back up and hovering around $2.20 now.
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I'll be in for at least one if you can get them done, let us know.
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I'll check the local junkyard next time I go, if you want. I want to help you out with this, I hate to see Zs go bad and not be fixed.
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I only mentioned constant flow because its just simple enough to fix the problem. I dont really intend on using that system.
I think either two or three injectors per carb will work just fine. When I want to max out performance I'll go to six injectors at the cyl head like the stock efi.
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That's why I asked about multi injectors. If I could run them as constant flow then I wouldnt have a problem, it would act almost exactly like a carb only I'd be tuning the electronic control rather than mechanical ones. If I did put the injector at a 90* angle then I could run six injectors of approximately stock size. However I dont know if the improved idle quality will make up for the non-optimal angling.
If anyone has a spare flat top carb that they might be willing to let go for cheap, I could use a test subject before I modify my "good set" PM me, thanks.
btw, I just did some measuring and with the right size injectors six injectors would fit in EACH carb(at 90* to the airflow)! However three is much better for packaging reasons. Thought you might want to know.
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I'd offer you my parts for cheap but I too have recirculating ball, sorry.
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You dont just flip the thing over, that wouldn't work, like you said. You have to dissassemble the rack and rearrange the parts, internal and external. Then reassemble them with the steering input on the right side. I haven't done it but I know it can be done. Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure chelle, the one with the V12 250gto, has done it.
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We had a crank like that when I took engines class a few semesters ago. The company that redid it just polished the rust off, they took off so little material that we could still use standard sized bearings. I'd take it down to the machine shop and see how bad it really is. I dont have much experience with Z engines but oversized bearings usually aren't the end of the world. But if your looking for the most power possible from this engine then you might want to consider a different crank, especially since they dont cost too terribly much.
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I've never seen a ZX rack but the 240 rack can be dissassembled and reassembled to make it RHD just by rearranging the parts. Maybe the ZX rack is the same way?
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"the researchers are now developing a miniature catalytic converter"
Shudda seen that one coming...
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I allowed for plenty of room for the fuel hose and electrical, that's why I said with room to spare. I could lean it over more with a side feed but I'd rather have the flexability of top feed. I just used a standard bosch injector that I had rolling around in one of my parts boxes.
My only problem with putting the injectors in the plenum is that I want to create a tubular plenum to keep the size down. If it had injectors inside it would have to be larger to flow the same amount of air.
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The plan for fuel is to run it up into the engine bay, through the gutted mechanical fuel pump, through the stock fuel rail then into the carbs in the stock location. Then drill passages in the carbs to get the fuel where I need it. I'm going to have to run an electric fuel pump and regulator under the car somewhere.
The whole point of this sleeper is Not to look stock but so that its difficult to know where my performance level is. A big shiny TWM triple dual TB setup with HKS style plenum, big honkin intercooler, and a T4 turbo on a tubular manifold, just wouldnt mesh with what I like, or what my budget is. Now a pair of flat tops, T3, cast iron manifold, and small-ish intercooler that all look like fresh junkyard pickings are more to my liking.
I think that there is more room inside the domes than there is in the bowls, although you are right in that I can lay the injector down on the bottom of the carb without it being seen even though it wouldn't be entirely internal. I'll see what I can come up with.
ADD - I just went out and did some measuring and calculating. By putting the injector in the dome I can lean it over to an approximately 40* angle with room to spare. Nowhere near the ideal but better than 90*. But then you have to remember that the carbs sit level and the engine is not vertical so the intake manifold is at a downward slope to the head. This theoretically puts the injector at about a 20* angle, much closer to the optimal angle, which is 15* if memory serves. Now I do realize that the critical angle here is the injector to the adjacent airflow but having the injector mounted on top would give more of a straight shot into the cylinder where mounting on the bottom would be a curvier path.
btw, there is enough room in the dome for two injectors. Would there be any advantage to using two injectors per carb, totalling four?
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Webers dont have the look I'm going for and a minimum of $1000 for a functional carb set and $3000+ for tbi (made by TWM) they are totally out of my price range.
I acctually have a set of flat tops that I want to use for this, what can I say they were cheap. I want to put the injectors in the carbs so that I can use the stock fuel inlet point and then a drill new passage up to the suction chamber. I want to make a new stationary piston(with my new lathe) to mount the injectors. I am 99% sure I cant mount all the efi parts within or obscured by the stock components. The main reason that I want to convert to efi is so I can turbo it without the hassles of blowthrough. That and the WTF factor.
With the throttle position sensor, I think I can mount it on the back side of the firewall behind the linear to rotary part of the linkage, slightly modified of course. I think that I can make this work but I'm not sure if it will function properly, any thoughts?
The air temp sensor could be mounted on the back end of the balance tube but it would be fairly visable. My other thought would be to mount it on the back of or inside the air cleaner box. But since I want to turbo, the air cleaner would be somewhere else so I might as well mount it to the manifold somewhere. Maybe in the carb next to the injectors or something.
The coolant temp sensor could be mounted inside the fuel bowl reading the coolant in the carb, or in the bottom of the manifold, or I could mount it somewhere else entirely, any thoughts?
I was thinking about snagging the exhaust manifold off of my 280zx and using it with the stock o2 sensor since that obviously looks very stock.
I'm looking at a wiring diagram for the megasquirt and I'm confused by the fast idle solenoid. I'll do some reading but if you got a sec to explain it I'd appreciate. Will the existing fast idle linkage work for this?
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I've been wanting to turbocharge my 240 since I bought it and since it doesn't look like I'll be driving it this year *Looks out the window at snow falling* I might as well tear it down and start the restomodding. I want to keep the twin SUs because I like the way they look and I dont really care for the stock fuel injection setups. What I want to do is run a megasquirt with either one or two injectors in each carb. but since I like messing with people I want to make it hidden.
The injectors will go in the suction chambers on top of the carbs using a custom made piston. My question here is do I need to retain the piston movement for the venturi effect or is it okay to replace it with a fixed piston? I wouldnt think you need it but I want to double check. Also what functions of the carb do I need to keep, eliminate, or restrict? From what I know about efi I would think that I need to keep the throttle plate and linkage and eliminate the rest, basically turn it into a big throttle body.
I think that with some creative thinking I can hide most all of the efi sensors and wiring. I have a few ideas for the temp sensors and fuel injectors but the throttle position sensor is giving me problems. But I think I might have an idea for that too.
If you guys have any ideas for me I'd love to hear them, I'd really like some help with this. Also if someone could help me with setting up a megasquirt for this type of setup (near constant flow) I'd really like to have a chat with you. I have a couple more things to ask about but I'm going to pickup my new used lathe right now, very excited!
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that's it I'm moving closer to CA first chance I get. You guys have all the Z's in decent condition. You know how hard it is to find a Z like that with that price tag up here?
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Snot bad! I kinda like it, I'd like to hear how it sounds.
btw, looks like you need a set of tail lights
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Those were some awesome pics of your Z.
Where can I find them off ebay? Want to show a friend, thanks.
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I suppose you can probably make it fit but the curve of the front corners is different so it will look odd at best. but thats just my opinion.
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...Put on a members only jacket and start cruising the local coffee houses.
Ah, good times!
I've got a members only jacket, you trying to say somethin?
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What's Publix?
At least yours drives! Mine hasn't moved since I bought it.
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I've finally gotten around to pulling the air injection system from my '72 but I ran into a slight snag when two of the nuts on the manifold snapped. The other four came out no problem. Any ideas how to get those last two out? There's nothing left to grab on to, drill maybe? Also can I use a pipe plug or similar to block off those gaping holes in my manifold? Or should I have it welded shut? I would be getting one of those wonderful header things but the budget just wont allow it until the winter teardown.
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Those three years are at the very top of my list for vettes, that's why I said them. Sure I wouldnt mind owning one of the others but there's just something about those three.
If you gave me an unlimited budget and told me I had to spend it on a C6, I'd start with a Z06, put a C6R body on it the C6R engine in it and probably a bunch of the other C6R stuff too. I've never liked the yellow paint, something more like the original C5R silver and black would look better. I think the race cars look absolutely wicked and that body on a street car would put the fear of god in any ricer on the line. But that's just one of my many fantasies.
PICS of my Restored 1973 Datsun 240Z
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I think the Green looks a bit out of place but I LOVE the rest!! Very good looking