1 fast z

Stock is 176 out of the intakes. Yea thats not a big percentage increase, but he should of stated stock numbers, so we know percentage increase on the same flow bench. I get about 225 cfm, on a 176 stock port. I see why it didnt sell.

I stock every L series head that will bolt on a L series Block. So let me know what you need.

Definitly the Fastest Z to ever run at Speedworld I bet, and on pump gas and street driven, AMAZING!

There are PLENTY of different isky cams that arent even listed. Working directly with Isky is the way to go.

JE, does it for extra cost you just opted to not go for it, ALL custom piston manufactures do it. You take material out of CERTAIN places, not all places, VERY common practice on race engines. But what do we know here at our shop, we only have been doing it for 45 years, on lots of race engines, without failure, LOL. As well as every other race shop and competition engine. And trust me the 14 percent increase is DEFINITLY noticiable. You are using .090" wall tool steel Wrist pins right?

Heres my final product, of me lightening my pistons. Here is what a lighter piston does: MAKES THE ROD EXPENENTIALLY STRONGER, AS WELL AS THE CRANK, as well as free up HP. THink about it. It takes X amount of HP to drive the internal components of an engine. F=MA, so if you can get Mass to a lower level F in turn becomes lower, making components stronger, bearings last longer, and free up HP as well as make it accelarte faster. Ofcourse there is a science to it, and it takes alot of time, but WELL worth it. These pistons shown are just a hair over 300 grams, and a 3.504" bore.

Looks good, Although the dish should of been taken directly off of your head for perfect quench. As well as they need some LIGHTENING!!!!!

Yep thats a Schnider Cam, the Ole CWC crap.

My heads for customers are smart enough to NOT use stock intakes, everything is port matched to better than stock OEM FI intakes. Gaskets are port matched also, very common process.

Yes its with valves, LOL. Like ive always said, you cant judge a book by its cover. You can NEVER see the little tricks, and different radiui in a port by a visual. This head is going on a custom supercharged engine. It is in a 280 First gen.

Here is a P90 head I ported, Flows 225 CFM@ 25" of water, compared to a 172 stock. On the intakes that is. The last two pictures are just to show what .010" difference in lash pads does as far as moving the wipe patturn in or out. Customer didnt want Polished Combustion Chambers, but it still turned out great.

Back to BHJ, or ATI.

You want to run about .025" piston to head clearence, for maximum quench. WIth your current setup you are at .040" and that extra .015" actually makes a difference in detonation resistance and power. So you need to pop those pistons out of the bore .015". Thats the setup I have been running for a couple years now. As far as valve relifes I dont think youll need them. You should NOT put them if you dont need them, PLUS your dish will be in the valve relife area anyways. I run over .500 lift 280 duration cam and still have .120" clearence on the intake and .220" on the exhuast piston to valve clearence with a flat top piston. Technically you should get your pistons to have a PERFECT mirror image of YOUR p90 head for maximum quench. This is done by assembling your engine for mockup, and inserting each piston in one at a time and then put your head on, and "bump" each piston to the head with prussian blue on it then scribe your combustion chamber and mill out ONLY that area and NEVER go outside that line, THEN you will have the MAXIMUM quench you can optain. Most people skip this step and mess up, P90 heads are worthless without all of these steps.

What process was used for the crank welding. FYI crank welding is very rarley succsessfull, as LOTS of stresses are built up that cannot be taken out, and thus cracking and then the big boom follows. It is NOT the way to stroke a engine. I know of many 22r setups that a company tried and ended up with LOTS of broken cranks. Billet is the best way to go. BTW, I am not buying it, as clearence of the rod on the sides of the blocks and bottom of the bores is impossible, trust me I already looked into it. I would love to see pics and a movie that shows the measurements.

The more mass you have the better dampening that is done. When you remove mass you remove dampaning material. It is NOT needed, and you will NEVER notice the power output difference in a street/strip car. JohnC's car was not either of those.

N42 Blocks are a TRUE siamesed setup, to where a F54 isnt. The N42 is the best for big bore engines. You need to SONIC test them for thickness not magniflux.

What was the following dimensions and how were they optained: Ring Gap Piston to bore clearence in the top, middle and bottom of the skirt Rod clearence Main Clearence End Play clearence etc.

Hey, thats my picture, of my rods, HEHE. Yea .125" id, with a chamfer for oil collection and stress reliving. Yea DONT run forged steel on wrist pins, its so easy to get a machinist to install and hone bushings to the correct size. Press them in at a 2-3 thou interfernce fit.

22/2=11mm radius of pin. so 26.6-11=15.6. You HAVE to use a 4mm oil controll ring, if you want a good oil ring, with that above the pin bore 3mm. There have been people that put the oil ring below the pin but it is not recomended as oil on the pin bores is NEEDED. You could run 1mm comp rings, with atleast 3mm thickness for the lands. You will need .015" deck height. So. 1.2+1.2+3+3+4+3+.5=15.9. So basicly that is if the ring was at the TOP of the bore which you cant do, so to some up, it is NOT worth the effort and hassle and the reliablity. Not to even mention heat and detonation resistance that would be needed and for that to happen the rings should be WAY down in the bore.

Ring land support and adiquite rings are ALOT better things to have then a questionable noticable difference in R/S ratio, not to mention the mass increase when compared to z rods.. Z car rods can be had on ebay for 50 bux often.

This is the only one I have online, its an old one, but measurements should be correct.

Oh ITB's are KILLER on the street also, I DAILY drive my ITB setup, with no problems what so ever, Ive taken many people for rides in my car, and they ALL comment on throttle response and instant torque. Heres my current setup:

Sproket is on a 3/8 inch diameter 17-4 PH stainless pin that is roset welded and has a nice fillet on the outward facing side of the pin. It is then on a high speed bearing. Crank sprocket is a 18 tooth, and if the engine sees 7k, the sproket will be a 12 tooth, so 18/12=10,500. RPM is not a issue, more of harmonics, as it is a tensioner on the SLACK side the forces are minumul. I have already added two more guides upper and lower to help with "whipping". We engineer things like this all day at our shop, I just didnt mention all the tricks of the trade .

Oh bubbles my son, you have so much to learn abour forces. Like I said I can teach you if you want.

Yea Ill snap some pics soon, heres one sorta what it looks like, heres a pic of the internal velocity stacks on my DOHC project. Its like this. BUT you have to gundrill a hole through the plate, for the throttle shaft, we have gundrilling machines at the shop, so thats what I used.