1 fast z

I am against dyno's personally, as they are SO far out of calibration from one to another, as they should JUST be used as a TUNING tool, and not to compare numbers from one to another, so I dont really agree with the numbers pissing match. I belive cars as a SYSTEM is what tells the truth. That is why I havent dynoed my car. I guess I should because Ive probably been asked a million times "whats it do on the dyno", so I guess this winter I will. If I really wanted to get into this HP match, I would go to Cali, or some other state thats close to sea level and do a dyno pull there? As being at 1500 feet is probably about 10-12 HP. I ran a 12.8 at about 105 MPH at 1500 feet elevation. Car and driver are about 28xx LBS, so I figure about 275 to the ground, but thats MY estimate and DONT hold me to that. Brian510 has a 3.2 liter and his is PRO built by Rebello, and Im just a 21 year old "kid" that built my motor, machine work and all, so many say I dont have a clue what Im doing! Norm has a LIGHT car, that runs 12's he has some decent HP, but he has a 2.9 liter.

SHOW ME any FI car NA in a full bodied 280z running quicker then me, guess what there IS NONE, and there definitly isnt any with as little of cam as I have, bubbles, you dont have a CLUE what your talking about, you dont have a CLUE how to build motors, you dont have a clue, PERIOD. You DONT know how to build motors (cough 4 times BASIC rebuild in a year). If you think about it, I have the ONLY 280z that I know of state side ofcourse, and people on the boards ofcourse, that runs as quick as I do. Guess what I probably have 20% the cost in my car/motor then you do, yet your a FULL SECOND (full second is equivilent to about a HUNDRED HP for the same weight and since I have about 300 LBS over you, I have what 130 HP over you). So to some up, My intake works GREAT every one that has ridden, or heard my car, or seen it can vouch for that. Ask TONYD, ask GEARHEAD, ask IAN, Ask Jim WIlliams, Ask Mcadam, etc. All I know is that I designed and built MY OWN INTAKE, where did you get yours, oh yea you BOUGHT yours, So that makes me VERY proud of my work, and Its a BLAST to DAILY drive. I love it, im sorry you dont.

Usually skirt length is determined by the manufacture, and they fit it into the piston after all of your other dimensions are met. As for ring thickness, I would use a dual chrome steel setup, with 1.0-1.2mm compressin rings. I would also use a 3mm thick oil controll ring. Place them as far down the piston as feasably possible, as this will protect them from detonation. MAKE sure you get an exact reverse dome to YOUR exact P90 head. This needs to be done by getting a thick dome on your piston, which you need to specify to your piston manufacture. So say you need a 12cc dish, you calculate the area of the P90 chamber then calculate the volume needed for that area to get 12cc's then that will be how thick you need the dome. REMEMBER you need atleast .200 thick in big areas on the piston and about .150" in SMALL areas, or you will burn a hole in a piston. As for pins, with that big of diameter pin I would go with a .090" wall tool steel wrist pin. I would recomend double true arc rings (internal snap ring) for the pistons. Thats just some of my advice and experence, and I use these guidlines to build my motors.

Race motor is qualified by RACE gas motor in my book. I run this on crappy 91 octane fuel. I run a MILD 270 duration 470 lift cam, yea thats WAY mild for a 3.1 with this head work. That was the last time I ran it, it was HOT, etc. My motors are built to LAST unlike we can say for yours as youve built yours what 4 times in 1.5 years, and yet you dont do the work you PAY people to do it. Untill you do ALL the work yourself please keep your comments to yourself. Thanks.

Yes I HAVE already had an ITB manifold using the Maxi TB's for over 2 years now. Here is one of the ones I have built: THis is the one on MY personal car. My full bodied 280z runs 12.8's with this setup on pump gas!

Eh, I own a C scale rockwell tester also, I could verify results if need be.

Yep, sure enough. They wouldnt need to use a different rod for the low boost turbo cars, when 600 HP is done on stock rods, and they knew about that one before 1981. Same rods on ALL L28's

Ok, I took some rods to my ex-jobs engineering department, and looked through a high powered microscope at NA and TURBO rods, NO difference. So I have prooved as far as I can, I would love to see evidence of this so called all turbo rods are shot peened.

All 280z rods are the same, 75-83 all models. Sorry Daw.

I actually went to my shop today and compared a n42 set of rods and a F54 set of rods, and no sign of shot peining.

Turbo rods are not shot peened, thats a new one, LOL. ALL L28rods are the same. EXACTLY.

Ok, heres the differences: NA 75-80 Pistons have a 10cc dish, with both compression rings being 2mm thick. 81-83 ALL pistons have 1.5mm top compression ring, and 2mm second ring. 81-83 pistons, move the ring lands down about 1.5mm deeper in the bore compared to the earlier pistons. Compression ratios with ALL dish pistons, NA, and turbo are the same.

The Grease is a little hard to make out when compared to Dykem which is what I use. Yea for a daily street driver I use a centered patturn. For all of my TOP performance customers and myself, I use a closer to the pivot wipe patturn. The closer to the Pivot the wipe patturn is, the noiser the cam will be also, but yeild more performance. ALWAYS check EACH rocker IMHO. You never know what sort of valve job was done before, so always check. Looks good though.

The links just ask for a zip code, dont know what thats about. MY hoses are not generic hoses, they are not your cheopo autozone ones, I have recipts that show 42.00, sorry if you dont like it.

" I also think having an aluminum radiator bolted to the frame is the wrong answer for a daily driver. " Radiator is not hard mounted, do your research before your internet parroting, THANK YOU. Its grommeted, and My car is DAILY driven, to the extent. My motor puts out TONS of torque, (it does run 12's in the 1/4) And Works great. Do your research again, as my hoses do NOT cost your so called 15.00 they are 42.00 MY COST, And I dont think 50.00 is too much to ask for that profit margin. I have tons of room to run any fan in front or behind my radiator, but I choose to keep as many things OUT of the engine compartment as possible, as its clutterful. Why would any supplier tell where they, how they, or get there products, its called buisness! Sorry you had so much trouble with your setup, sorry, you have to come on a online forum and attack people for your mistakes. Its pretty bad when a guy cant even find his own hose, much less build a car. Good luck though, and remember dont get but hurt when a supplier wont give you all of those secrets, and when they dont, be sure to NOT make claims saying you know what cost what, etc.

Yea you wouldnt need to hot tank again, as hot tanking is to remove oil and residue. You will just need to use some sort of solvent to get any chips out, then wash and re-wash and you will be good to go. Ive had to wash motors as much as three times before, so dont feel bad, haha.

You will need to drill for 3/8" pipe, and tap and leave 7 threads on the tap for the correct taper, or about 2/3 the length of the tap. NO you cannot just stuff paper in there, as the front number one main oil hole is only about 3/8-1/2" from the front of the block, and unless you block that hole, you WILL get chips in your main galley to the number one main. Why do you have to tap? If I were in your position I would just insert the press in plug, although it is better to have removable galley plugs, but since your motor is already complted you might as well, just use the press in style.

And if you notice that I say PERCENTAGE DIFFERENCE, not flow numbers, Im just curious about the percentage increase. I respect your work a BUNCH braap, so dont get me wrong im just curious. As we are basicly the only two head builders that talk about this stuff online, im just curious thats all, but work LOOKS GREAT. Im actually in the process of using our new CNC to re-face all valve seats, Im in the process of building a jig to do the work now, and I think it will work great.

Agreed, everyone knows you cant tell everything from flow numbers, as it is a static system. BUT it does give an idea, and some flow benches tell velocity as well, which is key in engine dynamics. Percentage difference of before and after figures is important though. It may not tell the whole story but it sure tells alot. So do you not flow test your heads at all? Im just curious. I do NOT just use flow numbers in my head building either but it is something to tell you and give you an idea of whats going on, and to let the customer know the same information. I use the Track to do My testing as well.

If ya would of purchased one of my radiators, You could of had hoses and the radiator ready to bolt in for only 325.00

Yea Paul, Im curious about the percentage difference between before and after. Do you have any Percentage difference numbers on some of your heads paul?

Nope, LOTS of P90-a's stateside have solid lifters. I own three myself, and One I personally pulled off of a zxt. Late 82 zxt's have P90-a's with solid lifters. My 12 second NA 280z uses a solid lifter P90 a. Looks good though Braap.

It will only plug up cats, if its leaded, I dought it is. It will also only shorten the life of the O2, not ruin it instantly. I use leaded gas with my WB, numerous times and still havent ruined it.

~20 degrees relative to the runner is a good choice. Optimum is directly down the runner.

Good Ole Solidworks, Ive been using it as an engineer for about 2.5 years now. I use it to compute alot of intake resonance calculations as well as balencing, etc. Heres a shot of my current ITB solidworks: