macambra

There is a recall on that fuse. The dealer is suposed to solder in a new fuse holder to make it easier to replace. I don't know if the dealer will do it anymore, but I can look up the partnumber if you're interested.

Save yourself the hassle and pull the timing cover. If that chain has lost tension you will have to do it anyway. It's better to be safe than sorry. Don't do the job twice. Just make sure that you install the cover PRIOR to tightening and torquing the head. If you don't it can be a seious pain and it will always leak.

Find another one, or replace the gauges with some AutoMeters. I have had an issue the temp gauge in my 83 for the last 4 years and I can't seem to find anyone that is able to work on it. There is a guy who works on Z31 digital gauges but he wouldn't do anything for me. There are no parts available. I tried to contact the manufaturer to get a schematic for the circuits, but it's too old and they don't want to help. Have you taken it out and disassembled it? You might find some cleanup is needed. If you have had leaking t-tops, there could have been some moisture in the cluster that may need to be cleaned off of the circuitboards with some alcohol and q-tips. If you need pics of the componants inside I can post them.

Because it covers ALL years of 280z/zx and has owners manuals and some TSBs and other related stuff that is not free. Not to mention it was really inexpensive and I didn't have to weed through a bunch of broken links and malware to find it.

The one without the lever is from an early 70 model year s30(Rare). The other with the lever is from a late 70-around 72 if I remember correctly. 73-74 had some funky huge add-on to the ari box. Assuming this is from the US market.

Calipers or the master cylinder are probably rusted beyond repair. Be wary of the lines.

So I take it that the forward pins line up. Where does the wheel end up in the well? Is it more or less centered fore and aft? I may do this install to eliminate the squat on launch.

I bought one of those jackets a year ago. It's a nice jacket. It's a bit dated for style, but fun for the car shows!!

Every model is different in some way. The factory service manual desribes each component in detail. You can buy it in PDF form on cd on ebay for about $20 and it includes all the model years. I highly recommend it. It will save you a ton of time and effort. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-NISSAN-280Z-280ZX-WORKSHOP-REPAIR-SERVICE-MANUAL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b8b55176QQitemZ140537844086QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature Just passing along info. to help you in your future endeavors.

Depends on the clutch. I would change the whole setup to the parts from your local parts store. Or if you want to get crazy with it- search this site for the info on the different types of clutch and slave available on the different years of Nissans. Don't hesitate to use the search bar-you would be surpised by what you might find!! My 2 cents.

It's a dampner. So you don't drop the clutch and roast the tires. Subaru uses something similar in the STI.

It's not an S130 but it's still cool and a very rare trim add-on from the dealer. Z-hawk Seattle Seahawk edition. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/2321000352.html

Received my Arizona Z flywheel yesterday. It's a piece of machined art, I'm not sure I want to install it-maybe just hang it on the wall. Yeah right!!

Very creative.But it looks like it's still easier to do with grease. I guess if you're out of grease...

Check the hard line on the passenger side below the battery. Acid from a poorly maintained engine bay( previous owners suck) will corrode the line right at the top bend. May not be your specific problem but that's what happened on mine. my 2 cents...

I'm looking buying this 12 lb flywheel on friday at the Arizona Z. - http://www.arizonazcar.com/clutch.html .

How's the quality? It looks really good in the pic.

G nose for your S130, anyone? http://www.zforceproductions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=38&Itemid=12

I searched but couldn't come up with any relevant discussion. Has anyone tried using the later model Supra downpipe instead of the 90 degree cast iron restrictor downpipe Nissan supplied. The Supra downpipe looks reeaally close to what I am trying to achieve on my S130. Here's the page i've been looking at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DownPipe-SUPRA-2JZGE-2JZ-GTE-3-v-band-Exhaust-outlet-/190495142871?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5a6533d7

Find and download the Nissan FAST for Windows program from Japan. It's a five disk set(usually downloadable). Then gor to www.nissanfast.info for instalation instructions. Then you can get part numbers for anything. Type the part numbers into google and you will probably find someone who's selling them. I remebered where the link is: http://www.xenonz31.com/s130/reference.html

depends on the size of the injectors.you might have to turn down the pressure a bit. have you test fit the turbo yet? i'm doing the same thing. i had to remove the manifold heat shield to get it to fit,with an eighth inch of clearance.way too close! bought a half inch spacer to move it out. email me and i'll send pics.

Watch your boost gauge at first sign of sputtering, it's unusual but the factory manifold pressure relief might be bad, you might also check for vacuum leaks. It sounds like you are losing boost pressure. I had something similar.

I hope you have a bov. The can between the egr and the aav is the manifold pressure relief(factory bov set to aprox 6.5 mmhg)

I am an electrician and use di-electric grease all the time. It works well for keeping foreign materials out.The plug will make its way through the grease.I recommend it in ALL connectors!! Here's a link that might help you decide. Also try Dow-Corning DC-4. https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/E7D49FEC1C1903B6882571870000D946/$File/DIEG-EN.pdf

Why not fill the connector with di-electric grease? It's cheap,easy, and it's the same thing the auto manufacturers do to prevent corrosion in the plugs.