macambra

It's down by the blower motor. It is a coil-wound resistor pack. 1 plug and two screws-it comes right out. Check it closely, you might be able to repair it.

12.6 volts at the injector power relay. I'm going to check the resistance of the injectors this morning. I suspect something's wrong with an injector. Edit- I tested the injectors, and they seem to be fine. I replaced the 5A fuse with a 20A and promptly popped it. So, I'm biting the bullet and buying a set of 440cc high Z injectors from OsideTiger. I'll update when I install them.

No, that's why the pwm is at 30% but it's only one of the two injector outputs that's popping the fuse. I built the harness in it's entirety-FYI

Removed ms2 from car and tested. Everything seems to be working. I checked voltage to all parts, and found one of my injector fuses popped. Replaced and it popped again. Performed continuity on lead to the ms2 and have 0.3 ohms. After replacing fuse checked power relay circuit with connectors disconnected(no load to ensure nothing in my relay box is shorted)-test SAT. Performed same test with injectors and harness plugged in but ms2 disconnected- test SAT. Plugged in ms2 and tested again- test SAT. Cranked engine- fuse discolored but didn't blow. I am drawing too many amps on that 5A fuse. I will disconnect injectors tomorrow and check each one again along with the injector harness itself. FYI: PWM is set to 30%(low Z injectors with flyback installed)

So, I finally had allof the bugs worked out on my MS2X,I plugged it in, and it started first on the first try. I ran it around the block and it ran OK, but not good enough for a daily drive. So, I performed the VE auto tune and it still ran OK. I ran out of time and had to turn it off and leave for work (swing shift). I went to start it yesterday to continue and it won't start. I have no idea what to start diagnosing. It wants to start but just won't. I thought maybe it was the VE tune but I started a new projct and reflashed the processor without adjusting any fuel system values and I still get nothing. I have spark, I have fuel, and I have air. I tried adjusting the trigger wheel timing since it sounds like a timing issue, but still nothing. MS2X321 L28ET 12-1 trigger wheel(300 degree #1) Ideas anyone?

This is my final post on this topic for those who will need resolution for this same issue later. I performed the "injector only" test. I burned the test to the processor. No pulse. At Matt's recomendation I purchased another DB ($108). I received it today and installed it-no lights. I changed some of the perameters of the test and finally received the blessed lights. I burned the normal mode back to the processor and still no pulse. So, I got frustrated and flashed a new copy of MS2X(Latest) and opened a new project. I got a pulse!!! I continued to set up the project for my specific engine. Performed a final test with the Stim and installed it. It started without any problems the first try. Hoo-rah!! I think I must have had some conflict in the settings somewhere, but I couldn't find it. Now I just need to buy a longer USB cord so I can set my laptop in the passenger seat. Thank you to all who contributed!!!

Reading the manuals (megamanual and msextra manual) will answer your questions. There is a cornicopia of info, so decide what exactly you want ms to do for you, read the manual for the apropriate parts, then start asking questions.

So, I got pissed off and pulled the MS out of the car and hooked up the stim. What-d-ya-know, the stim inj1 & inj2 LEDs don't light up except at power up- they flash. On to the troubleshoot in megamanual. I unscrewed the four upper screws to remove the upper case half, removed the lid and smelled some over heated-circuit- you know the smell. Performed visual inspection- found a nice piece of aluminum from the screw holes in the lid. So who knows what was shorted. I started troubleshooting. Pin 21,22 of the MS2 daughterboard do not pulse they have a straight 4.9v constant power, At U4 Pins 2,4,have constant power. 5 & 7 no power(mV). I tested Q1 & Q5 both seem to read fine. removed the daughterboard and tested 21,22 to ground and the LEDs on the Stim light up. Reflashed the processor and still nothing. At this point I'm wondering if the Daughterboard is blown. Waiting for an email back from Matt to confirm.

Verified 12+v to injectors and all three other power outputs in my relay box. I installed an ignition bypass switch in my relay box and remote start switch for getting ms to work without getting in and out of the car.

I have everything except injector pulse.

It has power, I'm watching the virtual gauges gauges via my laptop. I'm stumped.

It doesn't pulse while cranking. Priming pulse width isn't zero according to the table.

OK, So I now have everything connected and I am trying to start the car. MS2X, 12-1 cas disk, single coil, latest firmware. Everything tests out on the JimStim. In the car I get no injector pulse except at ignition on. I have spark, I have fuel. I have the little injector light plugged in on the EV-1 connector and I see it flash when I turn on the MS2. Any ideas where to start? I looked over the basics in TunerStudio and verified/corrected everything that is specified for start up. Infact I had to correct the power input for the tach input to get spark. The injectors are wired up to a relay per the drawing in the mega manual and the ms-x manual. They obviously have a connection to the MS2 since I have the initial flash so I'm guessing I have a configuration issue that I'm overlooking.

OK,so do I need to gound pin 2? Sounds like it's internally grounded...

If you cutthe strips down flush with the cap it won't leak. The pins are only ther for tension. They can be reused.

It is usuallythe modulator. Common problem on all Nissans that had them- 720s,280ZXs. It wasn't too expensive when I was working at Nissan 10 years ago. May not be available anymore due to loss of sales - not alot of units need them anymore. If I'm not mistaken it's just a pwm, research it and I bet you could come up with a diy circuit that is user repairable. I just found a circuit I'm going to use for my auto climate control. I bought all the componants needed on ebay from china for less than 20 bucks.

Thanks, moby. What do I do with the lead? Just cut it off? Ground it?

So, I am finishing the final connections of my MS2X, and I noticed that the DIYAutotune 280zxt wiring diagram and the MegaManual witing diagram do not jive. What do I do with the CAS lead that goes to pin 2 ?

I bought a TPS from a S13 thinking it was a pot style and it's not- it's a switch style. What are you guys using for a TPS(make,model-if you don't mind)?

I have built it per the MS2 extra specs. What is the recommended setting for the stock injectors? The screen shot here is the default. I haven't adjusted anything yet.

So, I am building the wiring harness for my MS install and I think I have a discrepancy between injector current draw and what the megamanual calls out on the external wiring schematic. I have factory injectors(aprox 2.5 ohms), battery is 12V, and E=IR. So, 12/2.5= 4.8 amps per injector. Three injectors per leg-I ccalculate aprox 15 amp draw. The megamanual calls out for a 5 amp fuse per leg. Am I missing something here? I know that the frequency will absorb some of that due to duration, but I should see the peak current at some of the higher RPMs. I spent alot of time building this I don't want to blow it up on something stupid. FYI on my background: Automechanic 20+ years (career for 10,hobbie for the last ten), electrician 10 years. I took this on to learn about electronics. I never had to concern myself with this stuff working on OEM equipment.

The last couple of pages of the FSM have the cluster wiring. It should give you enough info to trace out the circuits.

I am making some final wiring harness pieces for my MS2 install. While I wait for my EV1 connectors to arrive I have some time to kill-so, what are some common settings or wiring errors I need to watch out for? 83 s130 turbo Schnieder stage 2 cam- .460 lift-manual lash adj's .63 T03/04 ArizonaZ 12.5lb flywheel TWD 60mm throttlebody Greddy Type RS BOV Adjustable FPR Stock lower end-rebuilt DIYAutotune 12-1 CAS disk MS2 built per MS2X specs,MS2X latest firmware,Bip373 coil driver,USB-RS232 retrofit-boardmount I have built the MS2 and tested with Jimstim. Manufactured the main harness and my own design relay board in a project box with connectors and fuses (tested SAT on the bench)

download the manual for an 82 s130 from xenons130. Trace out all the connections onthe wiring table. Did you run power to the injectors?-the ecu doesn't power them, it only triggers them. Research,Research,Research.

Throw the carbs on and get it running. Then research what you want to do for induction. Personally I recommend fuel injection in the long run. It's nice to turn the key and drive -no choke!! I've had both early s30 and s130 and after driving the s130 I won't go back to carbs. BUT-like the post above states- research,research,research. My two cents.