macambra

I just wanted to clarify in my own mind, while installing my MS2, wouldn't it be better to sequence the two injector connections(inj1,inj2) between 1,5,3 and 6,2,4 instead of what the megamanual specifies(inj1-1,2,3 and inj2-4,5,6)? It seems that you would have slightly better results at idle to 2000 rpm. I searched and researched for this topic but came up empty-handed.

Go to the autoparts store and buy the tool to release the pins. I have seen them in my local NAPA store.

Go to the autoparts store and buy the tool to release the pins. I have seen them in my local NAPA store.

OK. I made a rookie mistake. U1 pin#1 is lower right not lower left. I'm an idiot. Thanks for looking!!

Go get some 1/4" steel flat barstock from your local harware store and make one. Tools required- saw(die grinder), drill,dremel. It will take a little bit of time and effort but it is soooo worth it in the end. Here's what I built for mine- I drew this up in MS Paint. It's rough but makes the point. You can probably get away with 3/16" thick steel also.

While performing the voltage checks on my pcb at the U1 socket,I came across some spts that are suposed to be grounds- but instead I have 5v. The manual says I should have 5v at 1,20,31- which I have. However, I also have it at 19,32 and 1.4v on pin 2. I also don't have 12v on pin 16 only 4v. I followed the troubleshooting guide and everything checks out. I just have the extra voltage. Any ideas? Update- Found that CLT pot on jimstim drops the voltage on pin 16 all the way down to mV. I verified the diodes several times. I have the correct voltage to the proto area. I verified there is no continuity between legs of the trannsisters. I don't want to tear out componants untill I have some idea where to look. Update2- The jimstim on board voltages have dropped- 12v has now dropped to 2.8, 3.3 has dropped to 1.8 . I have verified incomiiing power at 12.17v and is rated up to 2.6A. Update 3- Jimstim has short in 3.3 v cicuit. Everything tested perfect after I built it. It has degraded since then. It was the D4 diode. Update 4- It looks like I could have a short in the C20 cap on the pcb, based on tracing the circuit in the schematic. I will test it when I get home from work.

Use the 82 manual. You can download the PDF from xenons130. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

I am in the process of building my MS2 pcb, and I am confused after reading everything I could find. What's the difference between MS2 and the MS2 Extra? I have read both manuals (pcb build chapter), and they are slightly different. Which manual should I use? I have an 83 ZXT. I want to use the MS2 to control fuel, ignition, boost, and cooling fan. I have almost completed assembling my PCB (following the MSextra manual), but I'm concerned I'm going the wrong direction. Yes, I have searched. I get too many MS2 results to weed through. Any help here would be apreciated.

Baby steps... Get it in the car and running first. Take it from experience. Sounds like the PO put some money into it. That could be good or bad. You won't know until it's running.

It could be the check ball. You won't know untill you remove the filter. You might consider the high pressure oil pump springs from Nismo for your pressure problem, or cheat and install a couple of washers in the bolt. In my experience with the L series six cyl, low oil pressure indicates worn main bearings. You probably have 200K+ on that engine, right? My L28ET has 250K+. I had the same problem, and was actually knocking at idle. I have since rebuilt it and have no problems.

Just because the alternator worked when it left the store doesn't mean it still works. The rebuilders are terrible these days. There's a reason why they have a lifetime warranty. Get a new alternator!! If you start the car and put a multimeter on your battery it should read 14.5 volts. If is lower than that it is a bad rebuild. If it is higher than 12.5 volts it will work for a while-the battery just needs more than the base voltage(12v)to charge but it will charge slower and you put a strain on all of your electronic componants.

Just bringing this back to the top. Do we know when these are going to be available? Can we pre-order? It's not posted to the DIY site yet. I'm starting to get flashbacks to the old Mervyns comercials with the girl outside of the store, face plastered to the glass, chanting "open,open,open".

Just bringing this back to the top. Do we know when these are going to be available? Can we pre-order? It's not posted to the DIY site yet. I'm starting to get flashbacks to the old Mervyns comercials with the girl outside of the store, face plastered to the glass, chanting "open,open,open".

So here's the final question. what type should we use for the MS2? According to these guys, they have three different units available-RS232,3.3v, and 5v. http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/Modules/DS_DB9-USB-RS232.pdf

Effectivley, that's what I'm going for. Unfortunately, the only thing they have that's close is the Nipon-Denso 52 pin BOB. I'm actually trying to make the Nissan equivalent 51 pin unit. I already have the connectors from a donor Z31 ECU. Now I'm trying to pen out how I'm going to connect it to the DB37. I can pick up the breadboard and componants at Radio Shack.

I realize that "most People" would want to replace the harness, however I am not "most people". I would like to maintain the wiring harness in the slight chance that I decide that this is not the platform I want to continue building and bring it back to stock. I also feel that if we were to design a way to make this more plug-n-play, less people would be afraid to move to a stand-alone managment system. I am not content to do it the easy way and throw away a harness. I want to work within the confines of what I have already installed, besides I want to do this conversion in stages. Once I prove the system is functional in my car, I may change the harness.

I am new to the megasquirt system. I have been researchng and researching and researchng. For now, I want to make an adaptor between the MS2(and/or relay board) and the factory wiring. So far, I haven't found any place where someone has put together a wiring table to make this possible. I put together an excel spreadsheet to try to bring these together if it's possible. I started to fill it in but I still have to get more info for the Nissan wiring harness to make it more detailed. Any info to help or tell me if I'm wasting my time would be great. What I do have so far is from the 82zxt wiring table in the FSM and the MegaManual. Update!!! I spent more time on it an have eliminated the pins that are not used. Wiring table for MS2 to stock wiring harness.pdf 280zxt Wire table MS2.pdf

Has anyone succesfully installed a usb RS232 socket on MS2 PCB? http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=127879863

Turbo rings are slightly different. Do a google search on rings. You would be amazed. My recomendation is to bite the bullet and get the correct rings. 140 is not the worst price I have seen.

I know the feeling!! It took me two years to rebuild my engine. I think I spent a total of 40 hours on it over that time.

DIYautotune has an install document on their website. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm

I was under the impression, from the install thread, that the axles needed to be changed to the later short nose R200 style.(25 vs 29 spline)

Has anyone talked to their local Nissan forklift dealers for a pump? Old Forklifts came with LD28s, and big companies like Nissan sometimes keep their divisions very separate.

My 83 zxt 5sp (no factory oil cooler)has the bypass under the oil filter in the block like all the NA models.

Blue tooth chips to replace the RS232 entirely are available here: http://www.lemosint.com/bluetooth/bluetooth_serial_adapters_oem.php or something more conventional like RS232 to USB: Details: http://www.elektor.com/news/usb-2-0-module-to-replace-db9-rs232-connector-on.1361885.lynkx Website for purchase: http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=127879863 Then Mini-USB adaptor to bluetooth dongle. Hmm... Tune without a cable...