Kevin Shasteen

Chances are you have multiple problems, such as a defective alternator-voltage regulator along with wiring gremlins. Go to AutoZone and have them run a check on your alternator. That will atleast give you some idea if the alternator is or is not a part of the problem. As far as the wiring gremlins-welcome to the world of old Z's; you will have to trace the problem yourself as there is no easy fix for wiring problems. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I have a 78, bone stock, and my (+) cable goes to the top bolt on the starter solenoind while the (-) cable goes to the starter/bellhousing bolt. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just my .02c's worth. Any relationship is a compromise...but it should be an equal compromise and you should not have to subjugate your personality for someone who is a control freak. Regardless if you end up making up-the whole point is that you should not have to make up. People now days dont have a real perspective on interpersonal communication. All their examples of life are sitcoms, theatre, and romance novels....none of this is reality. Just because someone disagrees is not grounds for a shouting match; instead, it is an opportunity to prove how mature one is and settle the contradiction w/conversation. Sitcoms, Theatre and the Romance novels-women like to read fill their heads w/nonsence. Dont lose your cool-always remain cool, calm, & rationale-this behavior will always win you brownie points. Dont get hooked into a nonsencical hormonal yelling match-children throw tantrems not true adults. MOST IMPORTANTLY: any problem you have now-will only be multiplied 10 fold if/when you get married...if that is even an issue. The point is-her negative behavior isnt going to get better. Do what you need to do but dont do what you think she wants you to do based on you subjugating your "Humanity". You treat her with respect and likewise she should treat you w/respect. All controlling types (women or men) test the fence-look for a weakness and then take advantage of that weakness every chance they get. Whether she realizes it or not-she is using you and she thinks it is cute that she has you rapped around her finger; mind games are not something mature rationale people do to someone they care about. Just my .02c's worth...take it or leave it. Next time she pulls this-call her bluff, end the relationship and after you separate dont call her. If I were a betting man I bet she will be calling you in no time at all with some sob story; telling you how wrong she was for letting you go....blaa, blaa, blaaa-just more manipulation. You are in your mid 20's; you have all the time in the world to find another gal who will treat you w/respect. When you find her-you will be sighing exteme relief and wondering why you ever put up w/so much disrespect. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You can ix-ney Venezuela off the top of the list. As about two months ago the International Bankers refused to cut Venezuela any slack on the renewal of their Bank loans; as a result Venezuela's 3000 barrels of oil per day has gone to "0" as in the Big Goose Egg-notta. Prior to their economy taking a nose-dive, half of their 3000 barrels went to America; thus the excuse that our alleged increase in gas prices at the pump has been contributed partially to the lack of Venezuela's 1500 barrels of oil, of which the US is no longer receiving. Venezuela's economy has hit rock bottem & their citizens have threatened Civil War if their current Presidential Admin does not step down. Funny thing is I've only seen Fox News comment on Venezuela's current economy a couple of times; guess it wouldnt help the world to see bad news, economy-wise, when our own markets are somewhat soft with our own war on the horizon. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

What you are asking about is [break Mean Effective Pressure], or simply BMEP which should not be confused with BSFC, Break Specific Fuel Consumption. Both the BMEP & BSFC will be highest during peak torque. Typical BMEP figures are as follows: 1) 130-145...typical passenger cars 2) 165-185...Hipo Cars & Sports Cars 3) 185-210...Racing engines Surely you will gain a few points after the engine has been broken in. As for your low cylinder; was your cyl.head rebuilt by a machine shop? Did you rebuild the engine-who installed the rings: you or the shop? Dont be so quick to tear it down, break the engine in and then if that cylinder is still low then decide what you want to do, but not until the engine has been broken in. I did an econo build once on an Olds 350, simply honed the cyl's and slapped it together as a re-ring. Upon breaking the engine in the engine on both banks smoked for about 15 minutes like the City Mesquito Killer, then mysteriously as the rings set in the smoking completely disappeared. You never know how a rebuild will run after it has been broken in; perhaps someone else could put in their .02c's worth? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My dad, who works for J.B.Hunt called late last night regarding an dept. email to all their OTR Truckers telling them to Fill up as often as possible...effective immediately. I guess this is regarding the War on Terror and escalating gas prices that would result; which implies what-that prices are about to go up(?). Anyway, I was curious what the National Gas Prices are and who pays the most. As of last night, as I didnt go into town today, our Super Unleaded was up to $1.78 a gallon at an Exxon Station. This price is .15c's more than last week. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My blood is still boiling; I am evermore increasingly disturbed everytime I hear of something like this occuring. What is it going to take for us as Americans to stop other innocent Americans from going to jail for living their lives as they see fit: This means gun ownership...not a "FIREARM" that is a statute but an actual gun; the term "GUN" is not codified. If we as humans dont understand the distinctioin between code inforcement & Natural Law Rights then the entire fight over Good -vs - Bad is lost. We are either Sovereign or we are Slaves. Anytime we impose our will against someone else, no matter how strongly we feel, we have just tresspassed against that person; this includes the legal system. This and other stories like it are about one thing, Globalism. If you are not faimilar w/the term then you need to wake up. As Dan Baldwin put it-we are guilty of thought crimes, we are no longer innocent until proven guilty as the courts now presume intent when we are cited for violating a code/statute. THIS IS SERIOUS STUFF, THIS IS VERY VERY VERY SERIOUS STUFF. I am fist clinching mad over this man's situation. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I too am sick/stinking fed up w/the tress passes of the so called legal system; our so called legal system has turned into an EVIL system. I dont need anyone's permission to own a gun & my skin is crawling in profuse anger that your pathetic state is tyranically framing you for a God given right. I wish I could do something else besides rant...something that might help you!!! Read your email. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

There are always a multitude of variables involved in every accident. State Laws, type of coverage you purchased for Insurance and the issues of the accident such as who did what and what followed after that. You need to obtain a copy of the Police Report and give this to your insurance carrier-who at that time will obtain info from you to fill out the notice of loss; then they will either fax or call the claim center to begin the process. As far as what you remember or dont remember may be a liability and could be seen as contributory negligence...unless the witness said they saw the whole thing & clears you-then it isnt a concern. As far as the value of the car & what is covered-again it goes back to Coverages, Liability & Damamges. An appraiser from your carrier will appraise the damages. You car will not be officially totalled until after your insurance carrier has appraised the vehicles damages. Every state has its mandatory laws indicating at what point a car is considered "Totalled". Some states will say once the damages reach 75% of the car's actual cash value then it is a total; other states say 80% ect, ect. If/when you car has been totalled the amount owed is not automatically the amount you owe to the bank. Regardless of who is at fault, if your car has been totalled-then they owe you blue book value. This value is the actual cost of the car, in your case-this means retail value. What they dont owe is the profit that the dealer and bank wrote into the note. So, if the profit from the dealer & bank along w/the value of the vehicle exceeds "Actual Cash Value" then you will be on the hook for the excess. Most people dont realize this until they have an accident in a car that they still owe money on...case in point. The good news is that if you do owe a difference-many times the bank will agree to roll that difference into a new note on another car; you wont know if the bank will do this till you ask. The problem w/this is that you now owe that difference plus the new note-kind've stinks but it does get you back on the road. As far as the police report-some officers write up good reports & others dont. Regardless of the report-it is still third hand information & isnt to be taken as first hand info; this is where the witness's statement is vital. Bottem line is-GET THE POLICE REPORT & report your claim to your carrier ASAP! The quicker you act the better things will play out Sorry about your injuries. Many times your injuries are also subrogatable (the at fault carrier reimburses your carrier for what they paid out in medicals) accept in some No-Fault Policies where your carrier pays the meds. Once you have turned your claim in your carrier should call you first to obtain your statement; this is the moment you will want to ask them anything that is on your mind. Ask them anything-no matter how silly you might think your question may be; ask it & then listen for their answer. Dont forget to get your adjuster's name, ph# & ext#; also obtain their address and get the same info from the other driver's carrier's adjuster when they call you to also get your statement. Not all insurance adjusters are ethical; so ask the exact same questions from your carrier & the other carrier...then compare their answers-their answers should line up. If there are any discrepancies-then get your carrier on the line & ask why the discrepancy? Sorry to hear about your accident. Remember even if this is the first time for you to experience an insurance claim, there is a process to resolve your problems-just ask lots of questions then listen for the answers; dont be afraid to ask the same questions over...ask them as often as it takes until you understand the answer. Specific questions you need answers to are: 1) Has the other carrier accepted Liability Yet? If no: then Why Not? 2) Has your carrier contacted the Witness Yet? 4) What did the witness say? 5) What will become of my car? 6) Do I have Rental Coverages? 7) Will the other carrier pay my Rental Exp's? 8) If the other carrier does/does not accept liability...who pays my medical expenses? This should get you going. Good Luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I have a 280z 2+2. FWIW: when you purchase a CD-Player the component will come w/a cord that plugs into the CD-Player and the other end plugs in the back of your Stereo Unit. The CD-Players are powered directly from the Stereo's Head Unit. Kenwood CD-Players are compatible w/most newer Kenwood Head Units as all Stereo mfg's will always make their own CD-Players compatible w/their components and not components from another mfg. The two components must be capable of interfacing w/one another to function properly-this interfacing is accomplished w/the use of the cord that comes w/the CD-Player. There are adaptor wires for non-compatible components but most stereo retail stores dont recomment this. This is what I did. I bought a newer Kenwood system, Kenwood CD player, 200watt Kenwood Amp. and an Amp kit from Walmart along w/a Stereo Head Adapter kit from Walmart....turns out I didnt need the Adapter kit afterall. You do have to remove the console to fit the head unit. I did not use the Adapter kit due to the Z's HVAC system being located directly behind the stereo: there wasnt any room for my hands to maneuver behind the Head Unit-thus I was forced to secure the unit at the sides. The strapping I used was the metal strapping you get in a new stereo kit: this strapping is the strapping you are suppose to use to secure the rear of the head unit to minimize movement/bouncing. I had to use two of these straps; usually you only get one in a kit: luckily I had a few left over from previous stereo's I had purchased. In order to attach the metal strapping from the side of the Head Unit & have its face flush w/the console I had to drill two small holes in the side of the Receiver in order to secure the Head Unit from the sides to the console: (BE VERY VERY CAREFUL TO DRILL EXTREMELY SLOWLY HERE; if you go to fast you may go to far-ruining your new Stereo Unit). As far as wiring the power wire (to the amp) run that wire directly to the battery through the HVAC Vaccum line's hole just below & inward of the battery at the firewall. As far as the stereo's memory wire simply locate a wire that isnt being used that has power w/the key off & tap into that. I dont smoke so I used my cigarette wire to power my Power Antenna and put a manual Power Antenna switch on my console opposite the Rear Defogger Switch. This area on my Console was a blank that simply needed to be pried upward w/a flathead screwdriver. Remove the blank & install a similar switch purchased from Pepboys, Autozone, Walmart or any other retail electrcial supply store. TIME-SAVER: Before you buy that Power Antenna switch-remove your Rear Defogger switch after you have removed the entire Console. Now, once you have this switch in hand take it with you to match it's width/length to the newer switch you will be purchasing. I chose a switch for the Power Antenna so that if/when I do go thru an auto Car Wash I can lower my antenna therefore not having to worry about forgetting your antenna is up & being damaged by the Car Wash which often occurs w/a non-power antenna. I Put the CD player under the Driver's seat & the amplifier under the Passenger's Seat. The CD-player gets its power from the Stereo Receiver so you dont have to worry about locating a wire for power or where to ground it; but the Receiver and Amplifier can both be ground at the same spot. I grounded both mine off the same screw just under the carpet at the base of the Passenger seat next to the transmission tunnel. I'm pushing three years now on my system & I've only had to replace one item since the instal; the item I replaced was the amp.fuse at the battery. About the speakers, I used the factory speaker ( my car is a 2+2) but opened up the 4" hole to fit a 6" speaker. Opening the 4" holes to 6" holes was probably the hardest most time consuming part. You do have to remove the trim panels to do this. While the trim pannels were off I also ran two speaker lines to the rear for base speakers for the future....the base speaker thing has not taken place for me yet, but the wires are laying there when the need arrises. BTW: I always wrap my stereo wires w/electrical black tape to ensure they are always protected. A little anal retentive perhaps-but an ounce of safety means no surprises years down the line. If you do have to remove the trim panels be carefule w/the removal of said trim panels at the window & door....they will have Black Gummy Sealant that gets on everything and is next to impossible to remove (Have Plenty of Towels On Hand!!). Do not touch the Sealant w/your hands/fingers-you will end up w/Sealant Finger Prints everywhere. Hope that helps to get you started. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My bad-I didnt notice in the previous post that the Lancer was actually purchased w/the aforementioned incentives: the way I read it was that the Lancer was only implied & not confirmed as a part of the deal. BTW: You have 72 hours to back out of any (This Means ANY) contract w/out cause: after 72 hours you will have to show cause. Check w/your local Consumer Protection Agency for specifics. I would have to agree w/Davy. I had a Brother-n-Law who bought a new Ford Truck; when he received the payment book the financing somehow jumped about 5k. My Brother-n-Law, who has a short fuse to begin with, is also an exDefensive Linemen for one of the top ten Universities...man was he mad. He went straight to the Dealer and demanded the contract be corrected; needless to say they made the correction, but only after my Brother-n-Law pounded his fist down on their desk & accidentally broke the table in half.....FWIW, I would not suggest this plan of action. Check w/the dealer & put them on notice ASAP w/a witness: this puts you w/in the 72hour time frame if that ever becomes a concern or is even applicable in your state. Also check w/the Consumer Protection Agency in your area for a remedy. If you dont get an immediate response from the dealer-you may also want to locate a lawyer that specializes in Consumer Protection cases. Trust me, when a good atty gets wind of this kind of behavior from an auto dealer means two things....Insurance & DEEP POCKETS and the dealer will pay Every state in America has Very Bias Consumer Protection Laws highly in favor of the Consumer. I) First check w/Consumer Protection Agency or Better Buisiness Bureau: and confirm the 72hour recision clause...then, 1) Contact the Dealer w/witness(s) 2) Nail down the conditions for which the car was purchased: a) is the Lancer included in the special deal, or is the Lancer not included in the special deal 3) Did the dealer/mfg imply the car was included in the deal 4) If the car is not included in the deal a) At anytime did the dealer correct your assumption (based on their implication) that the car IS NOT a part of the deal? 5) If you receive no justice from the dealer and still feel you were wronged a) Contact an atty that specializes in Consumer Protection Laws...discuss the complaint w/the atty Davy, Glad to know you made it out of the dealer w/your ethics intact. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sorry to rain on anyone's parade-but if the add runs like you reported, then they actually never specifically committed to a Lancer. What they are doing is called "Fractionizing". Fractionizing is of two parts, 1) This means the offending party will tell part of the truth but not the whole truch, and 2) the whole time never admit/deny to the other part of the truth that was never mentioned from the beginning. When they say "2002/2003 Models included" this is vague and ambiguous; yet, because it is ran on a Lancer commercial-the implication is planted in your mind that Lancers are included. Yet, until a contract w/your name & their name is signed-then nothing is firm/agreed/committed. It is what it is...vague and ambiguous. It may be on the verge of unethical -but after all we are talking about dealers (yes/no?) . Now if a contract had already been signed & you discovered the other party breached one of the conditions of that contract...then and only then would Fractionizing be considered bad faith and their butts would be on the line. W/out evidence of a pre-existing contract, they are not on the hook in anyway. Your burden of proof will be to prove that their adds/small print included (not implied) the Lancer. The part that states "Excludes Outlander" raises an eyebrow; still, until you have that CONTRACT in your hand that includes the Lancer and defines the words w/special meanings such as: 1) Includes 2) Excludes 3) Mitsubishi Mfg offer, or 4) All Mitsubishi Dealers, or 5) Participating Mitsu Dealers only (?) Good Luck, I too would give them an earfull. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

All I have to say is: "Dont try to understand them, just Round'em Up, Head'em up, Move'em out....Rawhide...ssswhiiip (sound of bullwhip)! R-a-w-h-i-d-e!" Keep on truckin! Oh, yea-he's cool! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Aux, Obviously there are a lot of issues involved in giving: economics, politics and spiritual (athiest or not). The important thing is that you gave out of the kindness of your heart...that means you still have a heart. If/when you [give] you cannot put conditions on that gift or else your gift is no longer a gift. You did a good thing. I too am skeptical of beggars; however, when I am approached by beggars I always think of the Bible verse, "Whoever gives unto the least of these has given unto me" (paraphrased). Whether you believe in God or not-you still did a good thing...as far as the beggar being a liar is up to him. My decision to give to a beggar is also based on individual accounts-and my gut instinct....but once I give it is behind me. Dont second guess yourself. Good is good and bad is bad: what you did was good, so good for you As far as feeling good about giving-who knows; you did a kind act. Dont let the possibility of that beggar not being a true beggar ruin your good deed. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hello Curt; unfortunately w/the HybridZ scenario-admitting your problem is not the first step to recovery...it is the first step to a slippery slope ride that never ends. But at least you are in good company-birds of a feather will always flock together: even if the birds are Coo-Coo's Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

FWIW: Dont give up-The problem is right in front of you, it is just a matter of going thru the process. 1) have you checked your new plugs yet, are they black also?) 2) your engine runs great when it is cold: does it run great when cold through the entire rpm band and under a load? 3) how do you know your engine is going lean? Dont forget the backfiring, spitting, sputtering can also be caused by an excessive rich condition (black spark plugs?). Do you have a spark plug tester? You can check the color of your spark w/a spark plug tester; you may be getting spark but may not be getting enough spark at the correct time hence the black spark plugs. Do you have a factory service manual; it will walk you thru the tesing procedure...step by step. Dont forget to ensure your air filter is clean and your fuel filters (filters as in plural-front fuel filter & rear fuel filter) are clean/new. Unfortunately, not much can be done over the net; you will have to diagnose it according to the factory service manual. Dont give up & keep at it; then once you figure it out you can tell us what your problem was. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If Autozone has a slide hammer & the Pilot Bearing removal attachment tool-they will loan it to you....if they dont have the correct tools then you can rent the Slide Hammer & Pilot Bearing Attachment tool from a Tool Rental Company. I've never tried the grease process but have heard of it; I've always had the slide hammer & correct attachment for removal of said bearing. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dont forget about the 5-6hp portable compressors; the one that has a wheel in the front so one person can roll it around like a wheelbarrow! I bought a gas powered compressor w/Honda 5hp engine. I've had it for about three years & have used it alot...BTW-did I mention it was portable. The only problem w/a gas powered compressor is the Exhaust-if you are only going to use it "Inside" then you dont need the a gas powered compressor. If you wont be needing your compressor anywhere else but your garage-then dont get a portable one; if you ever leave your garage door up your compressor may grow legs & walk away. Just another idea to think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dont know about the set up of the 95 but I worked on a 92 Linconln w/the 4.6 that had an Engine Light problem. The owners of the Lincoln (My parents) were told by the dealer all they needed was to simply clean the EGR valve; same problem as you-they paid & the problem still surfaced. What I found was two fold. 1) The 1/2" to 3/4" rubber hoses leading up to the side of the AFM had cracks in them 2) The EGR pipe going from the passenger side exhaust manifold up to the EGR Valve had cracked in two places. The cracks in the hoses & the pipe were creating a rich condition. Upon pulling the AFM the intake was horribly carboned up from running rich. Replace the rubber hoses and the $50 EGR Pipe and the warning light stopped coming on. Check all your EGR connections & piping-check both the rubber and hard lines leading up to the EGR Valve. Check the simple things first before assuming any of the EFI stuff is bad. When was the last time the spark plugs & wires were rpl(?)...something to think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Let me ask you this; if you were unsure of where the Main EFI Relay was-what made you think it needed replacing? What are the symptoms leading you to believe you have a faulty Main EFI Relay? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Its nice to hear about the Rodder Friendly LS6's and the American DOHC V8's finally arriving (hopefully proportionally to the older FR cars and their engine bays). Has anyone seen Jan 03 Issue of Chevy High Perf. Magazine? On page 24 they gave a picture of Chevy's new IRL (Indy Racing League) all alluminum DOHC V8...pretty saawweeeeet! Only 280lbs putting out 675hp in racing form. It was also 3" narrower and 3" shorter in length than the IRL DOHC it is replacing. It's displacement was 3.5L or 214ci. When I saw that engine all I could think about is when will we see that tech (GM all alluminum DOHC V8 tech that is) trickle down to an RPO in some production vehicle...as in "affordable production vehicle"(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm not aware of any EFI relay that is under the instrument cluster just above the left knee(?). For the California Z's there will be an Altitude Sensor-but no EFI relay...that I am aware of or that the factory service manual mentions. My "1978 Datsun Z" factory service manual lists the three relays I posted and has them mounted in the location stated in my first post. Are you sure you are referrencing the EFI Relay? If so then you will find it on the Relay Bracket in the engine compartment under the Relay Bracket Cover between the Passenger Strut Mount & Battery on the inner fender panel. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If your 78z is stock then you will find three fuel injection relays under the fuel injection relay bracket cover. This cover is located in the engine compartment on the inner fender well/at the passenger side strut housing. The three relays are under that bracket. The three relays are: 1) EFI Main Relay 2) Fuel Pump Relay 3) Fuel Pump Control Relay Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

FWIW: My 1978 Factory "Datsun 280Z Service Manual" has the full Vacuum & HVAC Diagram of both the Vacuum lines and their attaching Components. You can find those diagrams in the AC chapter on page AC-36, AC-37, and AC-38. Should answer all the questions that could pop up about your HVAC system. BTW: my factory manual has a P/N 20066...not sure what manual you have that doesnt include the HVAC Components & their Vacuum lines(?) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If you are hard pressed for heat you can do the following: you will need a hand held Vacuum Pump; you can find these at any auto parts store & Sears for $15-$35. On the pictures that Tomohawk offered, you will see the Vacuum Diaghram that controls air going thru the Heater Core chamber: this picture is the next to the last one. You should also study the picture/diagram Jerimio offered on that same thread that Tomohawk references. Anyway, first turn your Hot/Cold lever on your Heater/AC control panel to Heat. Now, disconnect the underdash Vacuum Line at the before mentioned Vacuum Diaghram and once you have a hand held Vacuum Pump you can connect it via a vacuum line of the appropriate size to that Vacuum Diaphram: the one that is on the Driver's side of the Heater/AC Assembly. Then w/a few pumps of the hand held pump you should hear the Vacuum Diaghram open the Heater Core chamber-voila...instant hot air. As far as directing that hot air up/middle/down-you may have to play around w/the other two Vacuum Diaghrams...see Jerimio's Post on the Thread that Tomohawk gave for clearification. If you are hard pressed for immediate hot air-just leave the hand held Vacuum Pump in the car on the passenger seat while driving...it's certainly beats freezing. Of course all this only applies if the Vacuum Diaghram is operational once Vacuum has been applied and whether your Heater Core is not stopped up. If the Diaghram is cracked or the Heater Core is stopped up-then all bets are off and you will have to approach your repairs differently. If the Vacuum Diaghram is inoperable then you will have to fabricate a mechanical switch for operating that door. If you want your system to function properly you will need to find a Vacuum Canister from a salvage yard car as it functions w/the magnet switches & your Heater/AC control panel. Look for a salvage yard car that appears to be complete-then w/pen & paper draw a diagram of where the lines are attached-kind've confusing at the magnet switches on the passenger side inner fender well w/out a factory service manual. You really need a factory service manual-your pictures would be in that manual; haynes, chilton and motors always manages to leave out those vacuum diagrams whereas the Factory Service Manuals will always include them. Lastly-one thing to keep in mind; sometimes-no matter what you do w/the HVAC controls your system will still not function properly. Many times that Manifold that distributes the Vacuum (the lever on your control panel that switches the vacuum to different modes) will develop a crack in it; this causes your HVAC system to not funtion properly...and no NISSAN is not re'mfg them: if this is the case then you will require the temporary use of a salvage yard car for parts. Good luck-hope this helped or at least gave you some ideas. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)