Kevin Shasteen

From the description I'm still not exactly sure what your are referencing; are you talking about reconnecting the Hub (which houses the spindle bearing) to the Strut Assembly? If this is the scenario you're talking about, as this was the only troublesome part I experienced when I put my poly-bushings on, then you can take a die-grinder & cut a little wedge on the hub where the Strut Assembly Bushings slide on. Grind on the edge of that Hub ear...whatever you call it-hope this is clear. MAKE YOUR GRIND ABOUT AN INCH IN LENGTH; DO NOT GRIND AROUND THE ENTIRE EDGE as you want the remaining 95% of the bushing surface to be flush where it mounts. This little wedge you grind away will allow your bushing to slide over the Hub: as it creates an angle in your favor. It is still a stout fit even with the slight metal you grind away, but that little cut will help put the odds back in your favor. BTW: only grind on one of the Hub's bushing housing ears...dont grind much-just enough to allow the Strut Assembly Bushings to, with some elbow grease, slide on where they belong. Just grind a little at a time then try to muscle the Strut Assembly on. If the Hub/Strut Assembly doesnt go on-then grind a little more and try again. Remember you dont want the parts to go on easily-so dont go crazy w/the die grinder. Hope this helps. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If the block checks out-then dont worry about it. I spoke to an import salvage yard owner whose yard I frequent often enough that the owner & I always chew the fat for about an hour everytime I visit his yard (just setting up what I'm about to tell you), as I feel he is about 85% trusworthy. Anyway-I always try to pick his brain about the Z's and Z parts, since that is what I'm usually there for, while talking about their inline 6's he admitted that for the entire 16 years he's been in business he has never "AS IN NEVER" sold an entire engine assembly. He networks w/other import salvage yard owners nationwide, who were always calling him looking for Inliner 6 Cyl.Heads. He always hated to separate the engines & finally asked them one time why are they always looking for the cyl.heads & never their blocks. Their answer was that the Datsun Inline 6 is almost bulletproof and that the cyl.heads, being alluminum, are the weak link. He told me this was a hard lesson learned as when he took over the salvage yard he purchased a couple dozen Z's thinking their engines would sell like hotcakes-but all he's ever sold were their cyl.heads. So, just have them check your block out-and if its good to go-then slap another cyl.head on it if your cyl.head is to far gone....and feel good knowing that Z's blocks are pretty much bulletproof. Anyways-just my .02c's worth: acutally-it was the salvage yard owner's .02c's worth Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dont wanna bust anyone's bubble who is thinking about buying these wheels, however, after checking w/consumer reports there appears to be a disign flaw. It has come to the attention of the mfg's of these wheels that no matter what tire you mount on those wheels; your ride always remains hard, and the more your ride them the harder your ride gets I know-I know....I shouldnt have said it Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Nathan. Once you understand the calculations you will see that your initial questions is a loaded one, in that the intake temps will depend not only the ambient characteristics of the air but also on the efficiencies of your engine (bore/stroke/cyl.heads) but also on the efficiency of your Intercooler & Turbo(s). Once you understand the math-put it on a spreadsheet in Excel. This way all you have to do is plug in about 8 field inputs & wont have to worry about doing the math yourself. BTW: it is rather awesome to see the math worked instantaneously (on the computer) when looking at different efficiencies between the engine, turbo & intercooler. The math can be intimidating at first-just keep at it. I owned Macinnes book for about two years before I understood it....I found that after understanding Camshafts that everything else seemed to fall in line: mathematically speaking of course as an engine normally aspirated or not simply deals w/airflow velocity...it really is that simple (yes you can slap me for saying it is simple ). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Okay, found the solutioin to convert ft.per.sec & ft.per.minute to MPH. 1) Ft.per.sec. x .6818182 = MPH 2) Ft.per.minute / 88 = MPH This doesnt address acceleration as someone said earlier in the thread: acceleration is measured in g-force; which is written in Ft/sec^2. JeffP, FWIW: I should've looked in the back of my J.Lawler book to begin with-as that is where I found the conversions...oh well-the thread was thought provoking none the less. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If you have ever replaced a flat-tire/wheel assembly from a 1960/70's 1ton truck (which had very fine threads, long and thick lug nut studs then you would know that the dissadvantage is in the fact you cant break the lug nuts even w/a breaker bar if the lug nuts were previously installed to tightly and a little rust exists. Instead what you end up doing is turning the wheel over as you apply torque: even under the weight of the vehicle; and due to the fine threads it takes forever to remove 8 lug nuts manually...."I'm venting right now". I once decided to do the nice thing and help an elderly man who was stranded due to a flat on his truck. I had my two & three foot breaker bar/sockets w/me so I thought nothing of it....until I tried to break the lug nuts free. This was in the heat of a Texas summer...I am definately expecting a merit badge from someone one of these days for that task. Your thread (no pun intended) triggered the horrible scars that fester deep in me....this must be therapy: I feel much better now-Thanks Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If your tank doesnt have a drain plug-then you can empty it this way. Go to the auto parts store & buy a 5-7psi electric fuel pump, about 8ft fuel line which you will split into two sections; you will also need a properly charged battery and alligator clips & wiring for which you will attatch the electric fuel tank/battery together. Attatch about 6ft fuel line, or however much feet you feel is required to reach the bottom of the tank, and attatch it to the side of the electric fuel pump that you will be snaking down the fuel filler cap and to the bottom of the fuel tank: then attatch the other two feet to the other end of the fuel pump-this end will be dumping fuel into an empty fuel container. Now attach some alligator clips to the battery terminals-and your pump should begin pumping the old fuel out the fuel tank. IMHO-this is the best way to empty a fuel tank w/old gas in it: even if you do have a drain plug. Using the electric fuel pump removes the problem of disturbing the drain plug which could lead to accidently stripping threads or a plug seal that no longer seals (for whatever reason). Then, if you are ready to put new gas in, add about 10gallons w/1 can of Barrimans Fuel Tank Additive. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I dont have anything to add-just wanted to get in on a thread that wont die! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I just wanna know how you scored 6 new injectors for only $75(?) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My mistake I somehow correlated the title of the post w/the picture of one throttle body that had two throttle plates and came up w/dual throttle bodies (DOH!) both bodies w/two plates. As the great philospher Roseann Rosanna Danna (from Staturday Night Live years ago) always said...."Oh-well NEVER MIND!" Accept for the math-the math is good stuff-so read it till you understand it. At least I found it most interesting. Try a search for pressure wave dynamics on the net-it should yield some interesting reading. What you may or may not have considered is that the airflow velocity doesnt care if it is normally aspirated, turbo'd, or supercharged. All the airflow cares about is if, at WOT, has it reached supersonic speed or not. For once the airflow velocity goes supersonic-your power output will begin decreasing as if it fell off a cliff. For addt'l info you may want to look at David Vizard's book on "Modifying SBC Cyl.Heads" where he touches on this subject. The only difference is in his approach. He doesnt look at the Throat Port of the Cyl.Head at the Valve, rather he takes the Cross Sectional Area of the Intake Port Inlet adjacent to the point where the push rods pass thru the heads; he's still dealing w/airflow velocity just approaching it at a different angle. Vizard also gives some good formulas, you can find them on a sidebar on page 75. Vizard refers to it as the "LPV" (Limited Port Volume). Understanding what the airflow velocity is doing at any one point in the engine allows the builder to make the needed adjustments when modifying the engine; check the math out-it may hurt the brain to begin with but once you get it...you got it: and things are no longer as confusing as they once were. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I would agree here about Cody's statement and others. While the 4bl TB would be "cool" my question I'ld ask is what are your objectives relative to the intent of the car/engine? Are you turbocharging this or will it be a normally aspirated engine? I also think that a 4bl EFI engine would be cool-it would/should give that feeling of the 4bl's opening on a carb'd engine under WOT. Bascially all you are talking about is the manner in which the airflow velocity is throttled...yes/no? These are my thoughts-if you are not turb/supercharging your engine (assuming L6 here) you must keep in mind that your engine is not the typical American V6/V8 configuration where you simply slap in a larger cam/Intake/Carb: yes we are still dealing w/airflow velocity but the approach is different. Specifically, referring to the intake system where a carb or TB feeds the Intake's Individual Runners. Instead, on the L6-the TB feeds a Balance Tube...this Balance Tube then feeds the Individual Runners. Prior to the airflowing into the Balance Tube it must journey thru the Balance Tube Inlet. All three of these passages are calculated to match each other; as the principle involved uses pressure waves to tune the intake. The L6 intake works off the Helmholtz Resonator Theory which deals w/tuning the intake by way of pressure waves. However, because the L6 Individual Runners are relatively short it is not a Truely Tuned Intake, none-the-less, it works off the same principles. This Resonator's purpose, seen in the picture on the previous post, allows the incoming air to slow down & gain density which creates a positive pressure that feeds the individual runners when their Intake Valves open. The math for calculating the Inlet is easy, the balance tube not as simple & the IR's are easy; however-most IR's are not properly tuned due to under hood limited space restrictions; yet the principle still remains. For a Normally Aspirated 6cyl Engine utilizing a balance tube-that 6cyl's individual runners will require 65-80% Vol. of the Balance Tube. Where a boost in the 3500rpm range is desired on a Turbocharged 6cyl it will require the Individual Runners being 30% larger than a NA engine. The point I'm building up to is this: the velocity of the incoming air for an engine utilizing this configuration is matched to the peak rpm/displacement which is for a narrow rpm range. For it is the: 1) Displacement 2) VE% 3) RPM 4) Peak Power Requirements that determines the size of the Balance Tube, size of the Inlet to the Balance Tube as well as the Length of the Individual Runners if you were going to Tune the IR's to the camshaft. When working the math for the size of the Balance Tube, Inlet Cross-sectional Area, and Length of the Individual Runners you must keep in mind that the incoming air at the Inlet must maintaine @ 180 ft/sec at max.rpm. As you said earlier-to small of an opening and High Rpm is hurt while too large of an opening & low rpm is compromised. So, I would again go back to the question of intent. As a previous poster mentioned about improving power "X Power" of one engine configuration to another requires considerable changes to all components involved. I dont have any real hands on experience in upgrading L6's; but when it comes to L6 performance I have the understanding that the limitation to real power gains is found in the Cyl.Head. In general, from what I have read the Intake Port Throat just prior to the Intake Valve requires the Port Cross Sectional Area to be 80% of the area of the Intake Valve for proper flow velocity thru the Port & thru the Intake Valve's Curtain area. I dont know what the L6's Intake Valve Diam. is so I dont know what it's area (sq.inch's) would be either; but take a SBC 2.02 diam valve. This has a 2.02inch valve yeilding a 3.2sq.in. area requiring the intake ports cross sectional area to be 80%...which yeields a 2.56sq.in area at the port throat just prior to the intake valve. Did any of this make since as this was just off the top of my head...maybe too scrabled? To make a long story longer-let me try and put it all together here. 1) Normally Aspirated or Turbocharged 2) The TB isn't feeding IR's, it is feeding a Balance Tube 3) The Balance Tube feeds the IR's 4) Have you considered Banance Tube Inlet size relative to your camshaft spec's 5) What RPM are you wanting your Peak Power to surface? Are we wanting max rpm power or to simply add a little punch to a pre-existing system? 6) Have we even addressed the Cyl.Head Limitations Questions/Smetions-cant we just have fun w/o all the specifics! Here's the math I have come across; keep in mind this math is relative to a truly Tuned engine that utilizes the Helmholts Resonator which works on pressure wave dynamics: the second set of waves to be specific...no I dont fully understand the dynamics but I do understand the math formulas offered; here they are. I) Determining Effective Cam Duration (ECD) ECD = 720-(Adv.Duration - 30) II) Optimum Intake Runner Length (L) L = ((ECD x .25 x VE x 2)/(RPM x RV)) - .5 x D ECD = Effective Cam Duration VE = Volumetric Efficiency RPM = Revoltions Per Minute RV = Reflective Value (using 2nd set of Pr.Waves) D = Individual Runner Diameter III) Balance Tube Inlet Diameter (D) D = SQRT(CID x VE x RPM)/(V x 1300) SQRT = Square Root CID = Cubic Inch Displacement VE = Volumetric Efficiency V = Velocity in ft/sec...needs to be 180 for max.rpm 1300 = Approx. ft/sec of Air Velocity w/Therm.Dyn at max.rpm Hope this made some kind of sence-no hands on; I just read a lot...that is all a poor boy can do sometimes! Forgetting all the above; if you were able to pull this off I would think your resulting effect w/two smaller butterflies & two larger butterflies at WOT; I would think you would gain power at both ends. Much similar to the difference between a Wedge Cyl.Head (2valves) -vs- a DOHC Head (4valves) ability to breathe. Hope you figure it out-sounds like a lot of R&D is directly a head of you. Good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

It looks a lot better than the Lamborghini Z someone posted awhile back. Hey-this car has the rear wing so it must be able to do at least 200mph I will also admit that atleast it is better thought out than the Lamborghini Z...not saying much as it too was rather busy; look out Mad Max, or would that be Death Race 2000; Yee-Haw! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Any moisture in the vehicle will cause the windows to fog when ambient temps are cold. If your w-strips are original then possibly your winshield w-strip is cracked; which will leak cold air in to the pass.compartment. Also as said earlier-your heater core could have a minute leak or the water hoses to the heater core could be sweating-which comes from age. The hoses may not be cracked but because they are aged the rubber stretches & allows the coolant to sweat from the inside to the outside of the coolant. AND, if your carpet is old and/or moisture saturated for whatever reason they may not be capable of drying out-which also creates humidity in the pass.compartment. New carpet, w-strips & heater hoses will work wonders for the defogger. Ahhh, the fun of a restoration on a budget; been there-done that....oh wait a minute-I've never left and am still there Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

There is a presumption of guilt now days (thanks to new Color of Law type laws) that make a presumption of guilt till proven innocent. People, regardless if they are church goers or not, will only be as honest as they are morale & appropriately ethical. You cant look at people as a church goer or not a church goer; people are poeple-this means they are subject to wrong doing. The problem I have witnessed about people is that most will only be ethical & morale when it is easy-but once the pressure is on their ethics & morals go flying out the window and the wickedness in their hearts, that we all posess, surface. Only a person who is interested in truth will resist that wickedness. Those individuals who resist wickedness are in the minority. This is a dynamic I always find interesting; everything seems to always go back to Politics, Economics & Religion. Mike, my rule of thumb is to trust people as far as I can throw them. Dont blindly trust someone simply because they smile at you & appear to be 'Nice'. Am I jaded...no not at all. Working at the insurance company I used to work at really opened my eyes in the realm of humanity. I too witnessed people, who were suppose to be 'Good' but because of ethnicity or geographical upbringing, their outlook on life is skewed. It really is a shocker when that part of a person surfaces....it is always something that takes me by surprise. I too seem to always look for the best in a person. What I illuded to earlier about Politics, Economics & Religion. In the corporate world you are only interested in one thing; the bottom line! A corporation is subject to the public and at the same time they must show a profit. So money and political correctness are the rule of thumb. Not to mention that Insurance absorbs the risk of any wrong doing, therefore, how a corp. reacts to an allegation will be a script instructed by the premises liability insurance carrier. When an allegation is brought forth-it isnt a matter of who is right or wrong, rather the important issue is to "Isolate" the issue. Cut their losses as quick as possible. Religious beliefs (whatever theirs & yours are) is immaterial...yet w/out some form of religious belief there is no standard as all ethics/morals ore standardized by a religious paradigm; so w/out a religious structure at the core-anything goes. As one previous poster put it, "We really are upside down on our thinking". Unfortunately, corporations, specifically the one I worked for, alwasys did the same thing your corp. did to you yet because we were insurance adjusters-the corp. was a little slower in tresspassing against our good name. When your company claims they are going to "DO THIS TO YOU" because of an allegation: you must do what you did-TELL THEM...bold facely/eye to eye, "IF YOU DO THIS THEN I WILL SEE YOU IN A COURT OF LAW AS YOUR ALLEGATIONS ARE UNSUBSTANTIATED". If/when this ever happens, you must tell them w/out emotion even tho you may be filled w/anger, it isnt about emotion...it is business-so hide the emotions & tell them point blank what you will do: and then shut your mouth and dont say another word-let the deadly silence play out-the next person that speaks usually is the one who tips their hand first...watching and interpreting body language also helps. It is a poker game & Corp.Admin are ruthlessly good at it. Regardless of their answer-you wer right in sticking to your guns; you have to. What you did (get your own lawyer) was the right thing, you were innocent & you knew it; that shows integrity which most corp.admin are highly lacking in. I'm glad you proved them wrong; score one for the good guys. Because we, the good guys, are in the minority-be careful & watch your back; dont let your experience jade you but dont be so quick to "Get Personal" w/a fellow employee simply because they appear to be Nice/Kind...it really is sad that we have to have our gaurd up everywhere we go. Unless you grew up w/the person only trust them as far as you can throw them...that is my rule of thumb. sad-but it is a good rule. Take it slow-good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

oops; accidently duplicated the post-ignore this but not the previous post (confused? )

Dan, I'ld be interested in seeing it-so email away please. What I would like to emulate is a line graph that maps the piston motion. If you have Forbes Aird's book entitled "Automtive Math Handbook" he has this line graph on page#51. I realize this is just another form of visulalizing Piston Motion; but this is the graph I'ld like to duplicate. He also has a formula for piston acceleration. It appears to be similar to one of your previous formulas, here it is-what'dya think?: ACCp = {(RPM^2*S/2189)*[(cos(O) + r/l*cos2(O)]} ACCp = Piston Acceleration in ft/sec^2 S = Stroke in inches r = Crank Offset l = Rod length in inches; rod center to center cos(O) = cosine of the crank angle cos2(O) =cosine of twice the crank angle His formula seems to be somewhat simpler to me I'm not a real egg-head....only an egg-head wanna'be an egg-head imposter if you will tripping my way thru the math! Thanks Jim/Dan for enlightening me-any other suggestions that may help-feel free to keep'em coming. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

another duplicate entry-please stop the madness here

Thanks everyone for your input; and Yes Dan I find it very interesting. In fact I have been searching, when time allows, for some info that allows me to create a spreadsheet that measures "Piston Motion"....my new term-thanks for introducing the new vernacular as it appears I've been dancing all around it. Last year I taught myself basic Trig in order to perform the Crank Angle Charts; I have a spreadsheet for that & can do the Dynamic Comp.Ratio in my sleep. Are you telling me that I can not perform the "Piston Motion" charts w/out leaning [CALCULUS]? I have seen a few charts mapping the Piston Motion and have always desired to create my own Piston Motion Charts as it was the natural follow up to the Crank Angle Charts. Dan, In the formulas you gave in your 2nd Post you mention "Omega" as Crank Angle Speed and that is referenced as Radians/sec...(Radians always confuse me); I have a few questions: 1) Is this Radians/sec synonimous for "RPM"? 2) What unit of measurement is the Piston Motion calculated in: a) ft.per.sec, ft.per.sec^2, or c)ft.per.minute? Thanks for the assistance. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

DJ Feeling good isnt just about looking good; the looking good is physical while the feeling great is metabolic...at the cellular level. For the weight problem I have to agree w/everyone who has suggested working out. Prior to my choosing to give up Cheezeburgers & Fries & other fast foods I was getting plump. This didnt please me either. I decided to start playing Tennis. I always liked the head to head challeng of Tennis-its a Chess Game played out in the Physical Realm. To be competitive at Tennis I had to lose weight & gain some serious streamlined toned muscle; I also chose to start running. The first 6 months were tough but after about the first 4 months I found that if/when I missed a run I would also experience withdrawal from the workout-it really is addictive. I found that I didnt like missing a workout. The first two years that I ran and played Tennis (still play once or twice a week) I also discovered there was more to working out than simply working out...as others have suggested-diet plays a HUGE factor in not only looking good but "Feeling GOOD". Our food, especially the processed food as well as the so called healthy food...fruits and vegitables dont have the degree of intensity of vitamins and minerals they once had say 100 years ago. As a result we think we are eating healthy in reality we are not. Thereofore-you need to consider health supplements. You can buy half a dozen or more books on vitamins & minerals & get aquainted w/what Vitamins and Minerals are best for you or you can do an internet search & find a site that specializes in healthy supplements. An important issue to understand is that Vitamins are great for you-but it is the Minerals that aid the metabilizing of those Vitamins: they both go hand in hand. Case in Point: were you aware that the Vitamin B's are not only healthy for you but they are also important because they make your "Brain" think that you "Feel Healthy"; after all what good does it do to look good but not feel good? Once I got relatively competitive at Tennis I noticed my competativeness was wishy-washy, physically speaking, one day I play great-the next day...ehh, not so great; until I got aquainted w/vitamin & mineral supplements (the natural stuff-dont get conned into steroids or depressants-they have nasty side effects). Once I found the right combination I literally dont tire out when playing Tennis; when I play Tennis I dont play for just an hour then go home...my friends & I play for about 4 hours w/little to no breaks...its all about being healthy: not only on a physical levle but a metabolic cellular level & you can do it too-you just need to realize the process & then go for it. What most people dont realize is after about 20 or 30 years of eating poorly your body begins shutting down. Little by little your brain realizes it cant keep up anymore & your mind tells you that you "Feel Bad". To counter this you really need to get involved w/health; working out & eating correctly. I take a mineral tonic-from a networking company that has 120 minerals in it, plus I take all the vitamins...I really can tell a huge difference in how I feel; energy is always up-and that feels good. Find a health store (not just a GNC) but a real health store & dont be afraid to ask questions...ask a lot of questions from a lot of people prior to making any decisions. Dont just take the word of the first person you spoke to or to the person that yells the loudest-talk to as many people as you can before making a decision; the collective knowledge you gain will be invaluable and allow you to make a more educated decision. Hope this helped=it also helps to know you are not alone; everyone thinks what you are thinking now at one time in their life...so dont feel like you are the first one to go through what you are going thru right now. If/when you have questions-post them & someone will be more than likely to offer suggestions. The first step is realizing you need to make a change...the second step is realizing you are not alone! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dan, Thanks for trying to shed some light on the subject. I also find it confusing at times. The sites and books I look at always quote the limit of piston accelerations to be in the neighborhood of 100,000-150,000 ft.per.sec^2 So I think the formula given was correct. My problem is that those same articles will always throw out some bit of info that pistons at peak accelerations will at times reach 80mph, which is as you put it-just before and after TDC: but then they dont say anything else on how we, the reader, can convert this acceleration to mph. The only think I can think of is to run two spreadsheets side by side; one is for acceleration while the other is for speed. The spreadsheet for acceleration will generate its data based on your input of rpm, con.rod & stroke length-then transfer that data to the piston speed spreadsheet: which gives us feet per minute. From the feet per minute we can calculate mph...yes/no(?): what-dya-think? My brain is hurting also trying to figure this one out-someone....anyone; HELP US, we have both fallen & neither of us can get up! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Douglas for the correct title of that book. I could not remember the title's name for the life of me; it's even better to know that the author also moderates his own web site/board...good info-thanks! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I happended upon this formula while surfing the net and thought it would be interesting. The formula is for determining Piston Speed. However, the answer derived is not in MPH but in G-force....as in "ft.per.sec^2". So my question to you egg-heads out there is this; who can give the answer on how to convert the formula's Piston Speed in G-force to MPH? Here's the formula: GMax = ((N^2 x L)/2189)x(1+1/2A)) GMax = G-force, as in ft.per.sec^2 N = Crankshaft Speed, in RPMs L = Stroke, in Inches A = Connecting Rod to Stroke Ratio Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ditto! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I think he is saying that he is confused & still looking for himself; and if any of us finds him before he does-to send him his way. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)