Kevin Shasteen

I'll have you know that that brick is a Jen-u-wine Lamborghini Brick imported from the Eye-talians The brick also has some history-it was officially signed by Ferruccio Lamborghini himself as were all factory assembly-line bricks. Their purpose was to stop the Lamborghini's from rolling forward or backwards while being assembled. BTW, the new owner of this rare steed will be pleased to know that the brick comes w/the car. Yee-haw! And the tire isnt flat-its pressure has been decreased to improve its 1/4 mile times! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree about buying Maximum Boost, you might also wish to purchase McInnes book on Turbocharging as well. You can Twin Turbo your engine w/out really knowing what you are doing & simply take someone else's advice or you can do it correctly; by understanding what you are doing. You should 'want' to understand the process so as to have a better grasp of turbocharging and have more control on the choice of components being selected. This will take a lot of reading & understanding by edjucating yourself on the math of turbocharging. Get the two books & read till you cant read anymore. I have heard of someone mentioning "20th Century Turbo" as a good book-I have not purchased this one yet (maybe one of these days?). Once you understand the math you can input the equations into Excel on the computer. This way when you want answers you dont have to repeat all the math-instead all you need are 8 inputs: 1) Bore 2) Stroke 3) How Many Cylinders for each turbo 4) Ambient Temp's 5) Manifold Absolute Pressure 6) Required Boost PSI 7) Compressor Efficiency 8) Intercooler Efficiency Once you have made it to this point-running the math becomes fun; as all you have to do is plug in those field requirements & the computer does the rest of the calculations. I dont have any hands-on when it comes to turbocharging: but I have read both books & have also put the math into Excel. It took me a few times to read both books till I grasped the concepts and about a solid week of playing w/the math till I had a working model on the computer. Once you understand the math reading a Turbo map will also be simplified. You gotta read, read, and then read till your eyes hurt: and then read some more-till you begin understanding the issues of airflow velocity relative to turbocharging: then the light bulbs begin coming on....and staying on. Keep us advised...as if I had to say that. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

About the list on "10 Things Men know about Women"; I was surprised we actually know that much! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The 280Z 2+2's had flip out windows and many of the Corolla Hatchbacks had flip out windows-perhaps you could get their hardware from them. Are you talking about a general "Venting" that when this flip out window is open-it is an actual window? Or are you referring to a double pane window that seals the inside from the outside & at the same time also vents the interior so that the interior is not open to the outer elements? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ok Mike-we will be more than happy to park it in front of your house Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I always thought Lamborghini's looked better than that(?). Too all the Canadians out there, I apologize for having to put up w/that Z...that isnt even worth crushing. I bet even the dogs and cats dont even think about marking that car-too scary! For all Z owners wondering if a Z could be "Riced" out-this is the poster child for a Riced out Z. Talk about the Emperors New Clothes! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just looked thru last months Chevy High Perf magazine & noticed they had a 400hp 327SBC, They used the stock 461 Double Hump Heads after having them professionally ported. They also used Comp Cam's Xtreme Enerty Hudraulic Roller w/a Duration of 270/276 and Lift of .495/.502 Instead of Forged Pistons they chose to go w/KB Hyper Pistons w/small valve reliefs. Their Intake Manifold was an Edelbrock Performer RPM; BTW-they said their best Dyno run was with a 1" Open Plenum Spacer under the Carb...their carb of choice was the factory L79 Holley 780. This 327 seemed to pull pretty hard. It made 400 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm and 408 hp @ 5700rpm's. Maybe you can swap your cam for that XE Hyd.Roller and I would still think about your gearing. Hope this give you some hope-that light at the end of the tunnel is not a train about to run you over...it is the Federal Express truck bringing you a new Camshaft! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Its expensive because the equipment used is high-tech; your dash is put on their jig & the vinyl is put under a vacuum while it is being laid over your core. Before that takes place they repair any cracks and imperfections in your core. A new dash, if someone made one, is expensive-so is restoring an old dash to as good as new....unfortunately, there isnt a cheap way around it. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Clean the battery cable connections first. If they have universal cable connectors-then take them apart & ensure the cable, cable connectors along w/the battery terminals are all clean: make sure the negative cable has a clean connection. 90% of all electrical problems are caused by a bad ground. Inspect your cables visually for cracks or discolorations. If cracks or discolorations exist-replace that cable. Then if the starter still clicks when the key is turned over-you probably have a bad starter. If this is the case-dont go off half cocked & autimatically purchase a starter. The engine could be locked up. Instead-obtain a breaker bar & a socket that fits the harmonic balancer bolt. Take the transmission out of gear & then try to turn the engine over w/the socket & breaker bar. If the engine turns by hand then the engine is not locked up and your problem is most likely the starter/solenoid....now you can go buy your rebuilt starter. If your engine starter still clicks after you have replaced the starter.....you may have a bad ignition switch. The starter is easier to replace than an ignition switch, and probably about the same price as a rebuilt starter; try the starter first. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I have read some articles in Muscle Car Mags thru the years; it appears they do good work. No I dont have any personal experience w/them nor do I know of anyone who has used them. My only knowledge of them comes from the magazine articles I've read. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My question I would ask you is, "Exactly what is it about how your engine performs-that you dont like?" I hate to say this, as good of an engine that the 327 is, your problem may not be cam related but displacement related. Your power that you want might not be found in another cam simply because the 327 is an engine that is known for its high rpm revability-not its low end torque...unless you add a turbo/supercharger. Notice in grumpy's answer his 25hp gain was to a 383-which breathes very healthily (is healthily even a word?). Also your engine's ability to produce power depends on its ability to breath. Grumpy's 383 has 56cubic inches on the 327 not to mention a longer stroke for that much more added torque down low. Go for the 1.6's; my only concern would be broken rocker studs w/the 327's high rev's. You may get away w/it for awhile-but wear and tear always manages to catch up to you, and at the least most likely time. Your current cam's lift is under the .500 lift; I would agree w/grumpy-if you want to change your valvetrain's lift/duration, then do it by choosing another cam....not by altering the rocker arm's geometry. Maybe gearing would be a better change for your needs. You have a good engine w/a great street cam. Have you considered slightly steeper gears for the little extra grunt under WOT? Gearing might be the way to go; just thinking out loud! Hope you figure it all out. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

That is why I purchased my 2+2; One of these days I will put a V8 in mine and like the idea of an added wheelbase for weight distribution. The slight extra weight is also put in the right places-the 2+2's have a better structural integrity than the coupe. You also get a better brake booster than the coupe, not to mention the back seat for kids. Most people dont like the long roof line of the 2+2 but I like it...just remember: opinions are like elbows-everyone's got a couple of'm. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

When you say it wont start, do you mean: 1) the starter solenoid wont even click when the key is turned, or 2) the engine turns over when the key is on but the engine still doesnt start? When you post about a running problem-always give the year, make/model & which engine you have. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Are you working on a Z or a ZX; what year and what engine? Does your car have a Catalytic Converter? If it does and your Cat.Coverter is stopped up-your exhuast will not flow freely. I'm not familiar w/the ZX's but some cars also have a Pre-Converter that can also become stopped up. As for the starter, fuel & harness relays-it will depend on which year car we are talking about here. Need to know what engine & year model car we are dealing with: and is the engine the correct engine for that car, or was it a transplant? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

They are Liliputans; you know-from Gullivers Travels. They are small but they are much easier to house....and they dont eat much. Neat pictures. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I like it! IMHO, this engine will be much more durable than the Rotary engine-I dont have a lot of experience w/the Rotrary; but I dont see a lot of people rebuilding their Rotary engines when they break (doesnt seem to be too cost worthy). The engine chosen will be much more reliable; that is just my opinion. To me, judgeing by the pictures, it looks like that engine belongs in there. So far so good-nice pictures! I admire any project where a challenge was presented & the fabricator overcame those hurdles. I dont see the argument of "Why not a V8" or "Why not a Twin Turbo" over the engine that was chosen-instead I see it as a decision had to be made & whoever had the power to make that decision...did so; and to me it looks nice. I say more power to ya AND, give us more pictures as the project develops; please. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Maybe it was his mother taking the picture. You know how mothers can be while taking your pictue: "Ok, son-I'm going to take your picture now, so ACT like you are doing something!" "Ma! Not now I'm meeting w/the Military!" "Dont argue w/me son-just do something!" "Yes Maam." Funny Picture. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Eh, I'm not impressed-he has no A/C and his master cylinder is low on brake fluid. Neh-I'm not impressed, "I AM AS JEALOUS AS ALL GET OUT". If there were more info as to what is needed to do the swap I would almost be interested in it instead of the 1st Gen.Z's; that is a very nice job.....who-ever did it! My only concern on the mid to late 80's Z's are their digital dashes...has anyone come up w/a solution to their dashes? Just fab in aftermarket individual gauages...as usual? Did Nissan make any 3rd Gen.Z's w/normal individual NON-Digital Gauges? Thanks for posting those pictues-that really makes the 3rd Gen.Z swap really seem very appealing/attractive! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hey BLKMGK; didnt you use that excuse in High School-only then it was your homework due that day? Now put the Dunce hat on & go stand in the corner Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Pete, I) Cam related question: How bout looking at a camshaft w/spec's similar to what you were interested in, except using an Intake Duration slightly less-this way the Exhaust Restriction (however significant it may be) will be offset by a later exhaust valve closing? Kind've like the Ford 5.0 cam's; since the 5.0's have severe exhaust shortcomings-their cam's exhaust lobes are usually longer in duration than their intakes? Just an idea. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Len, Now you are embarrasking me that a kind thing to say-I try/since I have learned so much from this site I only feel obliged to give back what I have learned; and your Dad was exactly correct. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I cant say enough good things about the Corollas; specifically the late 70's-early 80's. I have owned 2, my mother has owned 1 (w/438,000miles on it & the engine has never been cracked open), my brother has owned 1 & my dad has owned a few. The 2TC (1.6) engine & 3TC (1.8) are pretty much bulletproof if you do the preventive maintanence. One thing to look out for is the Cat.Converter and depending on what year you have you may also have a Pre-Cat.Converter; when either one of these things go bad you will wonder why you dont have power. Then you will replace the Cat.Converter & still wonder why there is no power-when all along your problem was the Pre-Cat.Converter. The only week point I have ever found on the 2TC or 3TC engines were the water pumps. I drove mine 200 miles round trip everyday (all hwy miles) for about 6 years; and ended up going thru a water pump about every 45-60k miles. These engines are really amazing-they are the automotive worlds version of the Energizer Bunny Rabbit; they just keep going & going & going...ect. I've always thought about putting an R22 in one of those Corollas but never got around to it: that would be a fun little puddle jumper. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks guys-now I dont feel so illigitimate-I mean Illiterate. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'll check it out-thanks for the heads up. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Pete, The few things that come to my mind are: 1) Piston Comp. Height I just dont like PCH's that small-does anyone have any documentation on Longevity/Durability(?) when PCH's that are nearing an inch are used? 2) If you keep your 3.7 geaging would the Edelbrock Dual Plane Intake not benefit your long duration cam better? Dont settle on just one Intake Manifold-as cheap as intakes manifolds are get both-test & tune; find out which one runs best. When you know you will only be driving on the street-put the intake on that does best on the street. When you are going racing-swap intakes. 3) As mentioned earlier-w/the restricted exhuast and a 280 Duration Cam-your powerband will not kick in till around the 3000rpm range. So my next question would be-would you not benefit from steeper rear diff gears? 4) The near 8.0:1 DCR will work great w/your 10.5:1 SCR and Alluminum Heads. I still dont like that restricted exhaust (Doh!). The restricted exhaust will compromise the rest of the package...as in less hp/torque. But, hey-what can we V8Z owners do about it? Good luck-dont have to tell you to keep us advised(?) do I? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)