Kevin Shasteen

Spiirit, What is the purpose of your calculations, is it to: 1) Find the right Cam Duration 2) Calculate the correct Cyl.Pressures...at a) low cranking rpms low cranking rpms whose pressure builds when the rpms come up on the cam c) a little of both a and b 3) Or...just for fun: learning & playing w/the duration & LSA Remember LSA has two effects: one is that it aids, or detracts, from the low rpm power, and the second effect is it gives the engine a broad power band or a narrow power band. The narrow power band gives the sensation of an engine revving up quicker than the broad power band...thus a broad power band is great for a true streetable engine while a narrow power band is perfect for a Sat.Night Special or dedicated dragster. If you have to retard a cam 10* is it not feasible that you have the wrong cam? As many cam grinders that are out there & as many cams that have been ground-surely there is a cam more suitable to your needs: one that doesnt require a 10* retardation: yes/no? Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Pete, With a "0" block deck, I'm guessing this is due to your 6" Rods: that doesnt leave much for a Piston Comp.Height...around 1.151" or so. Are you comfortable w/that minimal of a PCH? BTW: I believe you will be much more satisfied w/this engine than your last one...much more torque down low-where a street engine really needs it! It will definately get sideways if/when you get on it....Yee Haw-WooHoo! Traction limited it will be. I'm just second guessing that minimal PCH...for longevity's sake that is. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Calling all math junkies who eat, drink, sleep, walk & talk thermodynamics & fluid dynamics....come out-come out wherever you are! Where do we go from here: from the Dynamic Comp.Ratio thread & the V/P Index site, which takes the following into consideration-the displacement of the engine, Duration of the Cam, Nominal (SCR) Compression, Effective (DCR) Compression, and ties them into the Atmospheric Pressure in order to calculate Cyl.Pressures: yea that data-where do we go from here? So, mathematically...or logically speaking, what is the next dot to be connected in anyone's attempt at building a Hi.Perf. engine? My question more specifically is this...how would you go about choosing your cyl.head's intake ports, your intake manifold & Carb (or TB) to meter that incoming air to compliment what you know once you obtained your Cyl.Pressure? My question isnt so much geared toward fuel delivery nor spark intensity; rather now that we have cyl.pressure coupled to our Nominal & Effective Compressions, how would you go about using this data in properly metering that incoming air...such as an in choosing an Intake Manifold or Carb/TB system? I have a clue but I wanna see what some of you think. For the V/P Index site-go to: http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm Remember that the VP Index Chart, scroll down the page to find it, gives a formula that leaves out a step. This formula is: V/P = CP x VE x N x .003 The step they left off was after the .003, in that there should have also been a, "x 2". Making the corrected formula like so, V/P = CP x VE x N x .003 x 2 As the site suggests, the V/P Index is just a number for comparison: however, what I like about it is that is ties in your Cyl.Pres w/your Nominal & Effective Compression Ratio's...and IMHO this is quite important. If you understand the V/P Index you will see how all three previous mentioned issues: Cyl.Press., DCR, & SCR are all effected by Atmospheric Press-so their trinitarian relationship is equally effected by a rise or fall in that Atmospheric Pressure. So, the question is how do we go about utilizing this data in choosing our metering of the incoming air to compliment our Cyl.Press, DCR, & SCR? Any takers....anyone? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

In the Dynamic Compression Ratio thread, in this same forum Pete P. recently brought to my attention the V/P Index site that I had forgotten. The purpose for mentioning that site was to concentrate on Cylinder Pressures: specifically the CP = CRE^1.2 * AP. I understand this forumula & appreciate Pete bringing that to my attention. My problem is w/the V/P Index itself...has anyone else been able to come up w/the same numbers this site's author presents? He throws out his first example and then gives two/three others as comparisons...unfortunately I cant seem to come up w/the same numbers to the first example. Go to http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm Then scroll down till you come to the V/P Index Chart. Just underneath this chart you will find his "340 Calculation" where he "hap-hazzardly" walks the reader thru the process. I have tried & tried to come up w/the same [269] V/P Index that he has come with but for some unknown reason my numbers dont jive w/his. In his "340 Calculation" he firs offers: 1) 340 cu.in Mopar V8 2) BxS = 4.04 x 3.310 3) 10.0:1 SCR = 77.4cc Ttl.Chamber Volume 4) Cam w/IVC @ 66* 5) Leaves an Effective Stroke of 2.52" 6) #5 gives an Effective Volume after IVC of 258.4cu.in Ex: B^2 x S x .7854 x 8 = 258.4cu.in 7) This gives us a DCR (Effective Compression Ratio) of 7.84:1 8) Cyl.Pressure = DCR^1.2 x AP Ex: 7.84^1.2 x 14.7 = 173.9 psi Now, this V/P Index formula is as follows: V/P = CP x VE x N x .003 Therefore, the V/P equation, using his data, would look like this: V/P = 173.9 x 32.30 x 8 x .003 Now, in case you have not worked that equation out, let me walk you thru this. 173.9 x 32.30 = 5616.97 5616.97 x 8 = 44935.76 44935.76 x .003 = 134.80.............NOT 269!!! I have worked this every possible way I could think of, could someone please tell me what I am doing wrong. I figure either I am doing something wrong or the author of this V/P Index site has left out a very important step...please advise before I go crazy...thank you. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

SPIIRIT, You should know better than to think anything regarding engines is a closed subject. Ravenna is about 90 miles NE of N.Dallas. Regarding BMEP, Brake Mean Effective Pressure, they will be at their highest when the engine is at its most efficient: and that is during peak torque. So when you obtain your BMEP figures from Cranking Pressure then you should know that those numbers will only reflect your low rpm torque and should not expect those numbers to reflect your BMEP at peak Torque nor at peak HP. BMEP mirrors BSFC, Brake Specific Fuel Consumption, in that it is rising or falling depending on the rpm range the engine finds itself in at any one point: and both BMEP & BSFC will be at their most efficient during peak torque. BSFC, while at its most efficient, will be a lower number while BMEP, is at its highest rating, during peak torque. Just a reminder-so that we are all reading from the same page. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Pete, Let me ask you this. When you are looking at a Dyno run & you notice where your peak power plumits-is this not a result of the airflow velocity inside the Cyl.Head Intake Ports going supersonic? This moment where your airflow goes supersonic hinges not only on atmospheric pressure...but is also acting upon your SCR, and your SCR is a function of your DCR. Your SCR can only be determijned once you have calculated your DCR and your DCR combines the atmospheric pressure in determining your Cylinder Pressure (CP) upon the compression stroke. My suggestion is this, I dont think you can dismiss the DCR/SCR relationship any more than you can dismiss atmospheric pressure in determining Cylinder Pressure: they are all relative to one another. Building an engine isnt done by one formula alone. There are a multitude of issues to nail down: atmospheric pressure isnt acting alone-it dances w/all issues hand in hand. Yes we should shoot for Cyl.Pressure..but we shouldnt throw out the DCR/SCR baby with the Atmoshperic Bath Water. Spiirit, Dont let the math overcome you. This "Cylinder Pressure" that the site Pete posted talks about & that John mentioned is the next step in a long line of connecting the dots. If you want to understand & apply book smart math to your engine then you will need to grapple w/these issues. Look at the formula: CP = CRE^1.2 * AP It is using the DCR that you have been familiarizing yourself with, only it refers to it as CRE: he says Tomato' I say Toma'to...same thing. Only now you have the next step in using your DCR tool, and that would be to use your DCR obtained, combine that DCR with your Atmos.Press. to calculate your Cylinder Pressure with the above given formula. Unfortunately, when using this formula you now need to understand how to go about calculating Atmospheric pressure. No one is pulling a fast one over you. There are performance enthusiasts everywhere-in every country. They post their thoughts just like you and I do. Sometimes they are smarter than you & I and in posting their thoughts they will use vernacular that is foreign: this doesnt mean that what you have been reading prior to that is invalid-it just means that sometimes you just have to read thru what some people write-and recognize it for what it is. If you were not already familiar w/Cyl. Pressures then you should be aware that a low cranking cyl.pressure equals low rpm torque while a high cranking pressure equals excellant low rpm torque. To obtain your cranking pressure simply remove all your spark plugs and do a compression test in each cyl. to obtain their own "psi" reading. The books you read always quote three classes of psi readings, these are the BMEP=Brake Mean Effective Pressure, which usually approximates three classifications or levels of engine performance possibilities, and they are: 1) 130-145psi = Standard Passenger Car 2) 165-185psi = HiPo/Sports Car 3) 185-210psi = Dedicated Racer Remember-these are simply tools to achieving an end. The end would be the best edjumacated guess possible...then put in the R&D & have fun: and make changes along the way: that is called experience. Dont let it beat you or confuse you. Be patient and keep reading: when you least expect it the brain will cease in being strained and the light bulbs will begin coming on & staying on. SPIIRIT, FWIW: This V/P index site has been posted many times in the past years I have visited this board. I have even written those formula's down from that site, yet, this is the first time I have understood them. I understand them now only because in the past three years I have read eng.perf.articles till my eyes & brain both hurt. In fact I forgot all about the formula Pete posted: even tho I have already written in down...now that I understand it I will remember to add it to my DCR/SCR tools. Now my edjumacated guess will have further depth: this is what it is all about. Thanks Pete for posting that site again. 8) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Kid, The majority of data on DCR's available to the commoners, such as you and I, are mostly on American V8's as the specialty teams that work on other engine types are not so quick to release torque/hp figures w/any of their other engine specs. What I am saying is that most of us can talk V8 stuff all day long, but when it comes to a non-V8: well, the data is somewhat minimal in regards to DCR/SCR after effects of component changes. So, the data you request may actually be in the mind of an expert, and they are not always willing to release their secrets. So if you are going to apply this DCR/SCR tool, then you will have to familiarize yourself w/the "Airflow Patterns" you find in whatever engine family you choose to play around with. I believe what you have to know, or understand, is that your modifications are dealing w/airflow pressures...as John stated earlier. In encountering Pressure you will always be looking at airlfow's: 1) Velocity, 2) Density, 3) Volume. When using the DCR/SCR formula's as tools; you must understand that any variance from the "Factory Setting" will result in your moving the power band up or down in the RPM range. Most folks attempt to increase the volume of the ports both in the intake & in the cyl.heads: this usually moves the power band substantially higher in the RPM range. In our inliners the peak power occurs in the +6000 rpm range...exactly how much futher up the rpm range do you want to move(?). This is where recognizing airflow patterns in an engine family is paramount: such as the limited cyl.head breathing we find in our Z inliners, as this is something you must address. If all you are going to do is throw in a cam & not touch anything else then your approach, "What can I get away with" is a valid question...but still you must be able to recognize airflow patterns. Now, what would be the result if you replaced your inliner's cam w/a monster cam, keeping in mind this minimizes your DCR-which moves your power band even higher than the already high +6000 RPM range; then you adjust your SCR accordingly, yet did nothing to the intake manifold nor the cyl.head to improve Airflow Velocity at lower rpm's? Probably detonation/pre-ignition simply due to the inliner's inability to breath at lower rpms. This is what I mean when I say "Recognizing Airflow Patterns". This is also why the DCR/SCR can not be looked upon as an absolute by themselves. If it were my inline that was getting modified, I would want to know how to create more torque down low...and not be so concerned w/the addt'l power up high. This is what I mean about "recognizing airflow patterns" whereas in a SBC there is plenty of torque down low due to its better breathing capability. This is also why you could get away w/a DCR of 7.0 on a mild SBC & still possibly skate by w/out Detonation...yet this is also still a huge compromise-so why compromise when you dont have to? In other words, the DCR/SCR tool is not an absolulte-rather it is a gauge to aid the builder in helping them get to a much closer level of expected performance than they otherwise would not have had if the tool never existed in the first place. Did that make any since? Yet what good is it as a tool if you dont first know how the rest of your engine breathes? As far as "What can you get away with": that all depends on how much you alter. Let us say you had a completely stock engine and all you wanted to do was upgrade your cam. If this were the case you could probably get away w/a DCR all the way down to 7.5 and your engine would still run on lower octane. I would only want to know why you would want an extreme compromise such as that. If you took this approach your SCR would not be sufficient & your performance gain would be minimal in comparison to your performance loss. Now consider a hipo build w/monster cam, max'd out DCR/SCR's...you surely could not get away w/lower octane fuel in this latter example. Now, if you were completely upgrading all the engine components in a total hipo rebuild-you would build it correctly to begin with, so why would you want any compromise at all? After all-our inliner's peak power is in the +6000 RPM range...why would you want to move that peak power any higher; rather you should want to build in lower rpm torque. If you are totally rebuilding then start w/the 8.5 DCR, to begin with, & build into your engine whatever SCR the math tells you is required: just remember the inherent "Airflow Patterns" such as the Datsun Inliners inability to breath down low in its NA set up. This is why that engine reacts so well to a turbo...it needs the addt'l lung capacity in the lower rpms (Remember-recognizing airflow patterns) and adjusting your build accordingly = success. The DCR approach is merely a tool. Its purpose is to allow the end user, by way of math ratio's, an appropriate gauge for making SCR corrections. This correction is an attempt to build an engine that has adequate airflow velocity leading up to the cyl.head(s) intake valves...but this should not be looked upon as an absolute-it is close to an "almost absolute" but in and of itself is not an absolute. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I hate these duplicat entrys --ignore this one obviously

Grumpy, What exactly are you trying to say; you know, if you would just spit it out-go ahead and say what is on your mind-dont beat around the bush. It might help others know what you are trying to say if you would simply post a site or two now & then-just a helpful hint: FWIW ....definately good stuff. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Congrats 8) ...I always like the sound of a perf.engine's first start up: even better in a Z. I probably dont have to bother telling ya how jealous I am, do I? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Spiirit, The Bore x Stroke you have chosen, 4.625 x 4.750, doesnt equate to 632...it equates to 638.4; so the displacement calculators are correct. Example: Displacement Formula is, Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854 x #of Cylinders 4.625 x 4.625 = 21.390625 21.390625 x 4.750 = 101.6054688 101.6054688 x .7854 = 79.80093516 79.80093519 x 8 = 638.4074813 or, 638.41 cubic inches. So the Dyno 2000 program isnt taking into consideration the Piston's Top Ring cc's, rather it is simply calculating the bore & stroke alteration you have made. The piston's top ring cc's will be included in the "Total Chamber Volume cc's" once you have chosen your "Compression Ratio". This will be the Static Compression Ratio & not the Dynamic Compression Ratio. Even tho there is no "data input" for your Dynamic Compression Ratio their program will calculate the DCR once you have chosen your camshaft's profile: without the DCR designed into the program you could not get a theoretical dyno run w/out it. As far as the Displacement input-this is basically for the program itself so that the program, when ran, recognizes distinctions between engine "family series": such as certain distinctions between a small block -vs- a big block...as in its breathing capabilities and or limitations. This way, once the computer recognizes a certain engine's family series it can then calculate the other formulas that go into the internal combustion engine; as in cylinder heads, intake systems & exhaust systems, ect., ect. BTW: dont look at Dyno 2000 as an absolute, rather-look at it as a means for recognizing patterns. If you learn the math yourself-then you can apply that knowledge to the computer programs for a deeper insight if/when you actually do use a computer dyno type program. As far as I am concerned, the missing link to understanding IC spark engines is in understanding the Dynamic Compression Ratio, as it is the bridge that bridges the gap in choosing secondary engine components relative to engine performance expectations. You may also want to read the book Desktop Dyno that came w/the earlier outdated Dyno program. The book has some interesting comments about camshaft timing events, airflow....and the book also addresses the hp/torque issues you asked about in another thread. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dont forget that those who constantly find themselves running their engines on the ragged edge are ALSO CONSTANTLY rebuilding their engines. If/when their engines are not rebuildable-then they are replaced. If you're only building a street engine...you may want to rethink utilizing alluminum rods(?). Do you really need above 5500rpms on a street engine? You will not find nor get "all the info" you need as the pro teams who are running on the ragged edge like to keep their secrets...SECRET. You will have to read magazine monthly issues, internet sites & thread/posts till your eyes hurt: eventually you will have enough of a foundation to base your opinions. Experience doesnt come cheap: somebody's got to pay the piper. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

For those of you who are Diagnosticians & for posterity's sake: here's some new info to my "Wont Start Problem". Cruez got me thinking about a possible "Flooding Problem". So I asked myself what could cause a flooding problem when the Engine Management System really isnt getting extra fuel? Answer: Lack of Air could mimic a flooding system due to the air being minimized. I thought I would double check the air intake system: specifically the air filter.....as I openend the air filter housing I found a "BLUE WAL*MART PLASTIC BAG" that had been sucked up into the inlet. Well I didnt find a "Datsun/Nissan" Insignia on the Wal*Mart bag...this I think makes it safe to assume it doesnt belong there . So I removed it from the air filter housing & cleaned the air filter. Unfortunately it did not fix my "No Start Problem"...rather it altered the perameters. Now my engine will start when it is cold: it just wont start during a restart attempt after the engine had been warmed up/car driven & then parked w/out being push started. So, I'm still leaning toward one of the Fuel Injection Relays or the Ignition Module....I hate electrical problems! Time will hopefully tell-as I have time to mess w/it. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

What Year, Make & Model? If at times you are tapping on the fusible link(s) and it starts up-then perhaps you should begin your diagnostics by cleaning the connections at the fusible link(s). Or, replace your fusible links-afterall, they are not that expensive. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for the comments. Cruez, FWIW, the spark plugs are not the same type as before. I too thought maybe for some unknown reason I was flooding the engine-yet this would not explain why it starts perfectly during a push start: so I ruled out a flooding scenario. While talking to a few others here locally someone also mentioned the ign.sw. but I too thought, prior to reading everyone's comments here, that this would be an oddball (unfeasable) failure. Jerimio/Sumo After reading Jerimio's explanation on the ign.sw. I now think that would probably be a better place to begin. The first time I tested the coil (off the engine) w/a multi meter-it tested within tolerances. As far as testing the coil on the engine, while cranking, will take a second pair of hands: looks like I'll have to hijack a friend from the BIG city to come out and help. Jim, Your comments about the starter: you are referring to the inside of the starter housing where the terminal is positioned, yes/no. You are suggesting if this were the case-the starter would engage and in turn rotate the crank: but as a result of the terminal being corroded, on the inside of the starter housing, there would be no fire going to the ignl.sw(?), hmmm-interesting. I honestly never even considered that option. BUT HEY-that is why I always post here: so much experience in one place surely someone will have gone thru the same problem before & point me in the right direction. Thanks again for the comments. Anyone else reading this thread please feel free to add: until I get this thing solved.........IT AINT SOLVED , so any addt'l input is always appreciated. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner: with starting problems)

This problem arose on my car-and I have not solved it as of yet. For starters...no pun intended: this problem doesnt care if the engine is cold or hot. The problem is: 1) W/ignition key turned the starter is powered and engages the flywheel. 2) The engine turns but doesnt run 3) I know I am getting fuel as I can smell it when I open the hood *NOTE: This alone made me think I am not getting any spark But here is the [new twist], at least it is new to me. After grinding the starter trying to start the engine for 30 seconds w/no luck... I can have someone push start me & as soon as I pop the clutch the engine IMMEDIATELY fires. After the engine starts it runs perfect. The engine idles w/ease, the engine rev's w/out hesitation and I can drive any speed w/out any compromise to engine performance. I just cant turn off the ignition switch or else I will have to get someone to push start me again. So, my question is: What part of the engine systems on my car are not working but should be working, during cranking, while the car is sitting still -vs- what part of the engine systems are working when my car is being push started that allows the engine to start while being push started as opposed to a no start situation while the car is sitting still? It is a mystery to me. My car: 1) 1978 4spd Z w/a bone stock inline 6 Prior to this occuring: 1) Alternator failed & took out the Battery while replacing the Alt & Battery I also performed a tune up: 1) Spark Plugs replaced 2) Spark Plug Wires replaced 3) Cap/Rotor replaced After this "Eng. Wont Start" problem arose: 1) I replaced the coil w/a spare I had and it appeared to help for a day or two-then the engine went back to acting up. I'm leaning toward the problem being an ignition module (Datsun Manual calls it an Ignition Transistor): but I cant find any parts stores, who have module testing machines, w/the correct adaptor plug to test my module. I still dont see why the module would not function during cranking, while the car is sitting still, yet function perfectly fine during a push start. It truly is a mystery to me-so if anyone else has experienced this problem before-please chime in: the suspence of not knowing is killing me Kevin (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sometime last year SSS510 listed pictures of his custom T-56 bellhousing. In that post he mentioned a book on customizing clutches/bellhousings. I searched the Driveline forum and found the post yet half the thread was missing. By chance did anyone else get the name of that book-or any other book on customizing clutches & bellhousings? Specifically on how to determine if the spring pressure of the pressure plate is optimum or not: thanks for any suggestions. If anyone reading this thread posts an answer on a good book-please give its name, publisher, copyright date & if they remember the costs of the book that would be helpful also...thanks. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I like the SBC V8 6 speed idea in a smaller car. I dont like the use of the GTO badge as I feel that is basically a gimmick attempting to persuade the Goat collectors into buying this car: atleast if you are going to call it a GTO-then give it a Pontiac engine. Remember when GM tried to sell a 442 in the mid 90's and used the Quad4 engine-it didnt seem to go over so well: atleast the Quad4 was an Olds engine however it was not a V8. I dont believe the Auto Mfg's understand that the Muscle Car crowd are not interested in imitation knock offs. If you are going to use a Muscle Car insignia-atleast give it the inheritance of purity...AKA: GTO=Pontiac Engine. Event tho these insignia's are just name plates-there is something wrong with selling a duck and trying to make everyone believe it is an eagle. I agree w/PeteP about making miniature Muscel Cars w/V8's in them. Everyone remember the sucess Toyota had w/the 1977 & 1978 Celica's? They were basically miniature 69-70 Mustangs w/4 bangers-their looks were great: performance-well nothing to write home about, but their looks were nice because they were a miniature copy of the Mustang. Dont forget the Vega's. The Vega's were basically miniature Camaro's. I like the newer GTO's idea of getting a V8 & 6 speed but I have to join the rest of you about not liking the use of the GTO badge nor its 35k price tag. No need to try and hook me by using the GTO badge-just give it a new name and let it sell itself w/out trying to manipulate my feelings about the Muscle Car good ole days. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

WHAT: You got crop circles in your lawn too? Whew-and I thought I was going crazy there for a moment. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nice translations: to to funny. I found myself reliving emotions that were suppressed from past repairs (denial is not a pretty thing-oh the horror!). What I hate about the Haynes (any other incomplete manual) is when they make a reference to a component in their diagnostic sections...yet the component being referenced isnt defined anywhere in said manual Blasted Cursed Manuals I've discovered that retribution may be found by throwing the incomplete manual up in the air & shooting it w/a shotgun Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

DD, I believe you are confusing max piston speed for the "Stroke to Rod Ratio" at that 90* angle. The 90* angle relationship, between the crank main journal and the con.rod journal is where, the smarter than I, folks believe that max torque should take place. This is where the micro-annalysis of crank stroke to rod length angle ratio relative to cylinder displacement is so heavily researched. So "Stroke to Rod Ratio" is what you should be diagnosing at that 90* angle and its benefits: providing your ratio is correct for the displacement of your engine's cylinder. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

There is one other possibility. Sometimes, not usually, but sometimes a voltage regulator will go bad in such a way it still allows the battery to charge: yet after you turn the ignition key off, the voltage regulator remains in the closed loop and this will drain your battery down over night or in a couple hours, ect. Battery, starter, & alternator problems usually go hand in hand. You have already rpl the battery & the problem still exists so I would guess the problem is not with your battery. I agree w/the previous post-check your connections between the battery, starter, & alternator....make sure there is NO corrosion. For peace of mind, you can remove both the battery, starter, and alternator & take them to Auto Zone or Oreilly's for bench testing. Then if one item fails-rpl it. If all three components test good-then your problem is else where. If you have an automatic-you will also have a neutral safety switch. When a neutral safety switch gets corroded at its connections it will often give the same symptom as the classic battery, alternator, & starter symptoms. I would begin by having Auto Zone/Oreilly's testing your battery, alternator, & starter. I believe both these parts houses have a mobile load tester they can wheel up to your car that will test all three of these items. Drive your car to them & ask them to test all three-the battery, the starter & the alternator. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

JB, If your wife cares so much that she went to the xtra effort to get you something for your car, which she assumed would compliment your car: then perhaps it would please her more to know that you had certain expectations of how your car would look once finished...low profile hood. Your scenario reminds me of the Xmas story about the long haired wife who cut off her hair to buy her husband a nice watchband. Meanwhile, her husband sold his nice watch to buy her a beautiful bow for her hair. If she really wants you to be pleased-then she will/should understand the importance of not cutting a hole in the hood. I dont know her-but something that nice means she does care: I would not put it passed her in that she wants you to be pleased w/the final outcome. I would think she would be hurt if she thought you suffered as a result of thinking you would hurt her feelings and using something that in the long run was opposite to your car's finished project. Also, one last point: did she pick this out on her own? Is she so knowledgeable on car/engine combo's that she was capable of knowing exactly what you needed or did someone help her pick out what they thougth you wanted? If not-then certainly she would want you to have the correct proper set up for your car/engine. I think she would undestand-but then again I'm not married to her-you are, and we are dealing w/the female spirit here...any of us here proclaim to actually understand the female mind? Just my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)