Kevin Shasteen

Isnt there a HybridZ law about giving up your Manual? Doesnt that violate some unwritten code? Are you needing to know something in general or just have not had the chance personally to read one yourself? Sorry, not done w/mine yet; I'm still a lowly Inliner! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

there we go again; that computer glitch messin w/me again...sorry about the ghost post. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 08, 2001).]

Hmmm, never really ever thought about "HOW TO STOP IT". I'm not really sure I even understand it? How can you stop something if you dont even understand it? Are there any 24 step programs for us? Is there even a name for what we have? Take it one step further....how do we know that we didnt have the problem prior to being bit by the Hi/Po bug; and that only after being bitten.....that we are actually normal-where as prior to being bitten we actually had the problem? Okay, I'm confused-too much analyzing....just give me a 1/2" & a 9/16" wrench, a screwdriver, a hammer and an engine; lock me in a rubber garage & I'll be fine! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 08, 2001).]

Now that would be fun; The Boat Races on the Great Lakes in Michigan! More fun than one person should be aloud to have. Hey; if I show up do you think the rooster tail of one of those speed boats would knock me down if I wanted to go skiing behind it? Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Cool; another satisfied customer. ....Now, if I could only remember what I did with my Alluminum V8, T-56, Alluminum Heads, Alluminum Intake, Monster Roller Cam....yada, yada, yada.... Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Yea, I thought about that & have done that w/other relays in the past; just didnt want to take a chance of breaking the original prior to having another one. Thanks for the reminder tho. Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Dont forget Lingenfelter's book on modifying the SBC. In the back of his book he has about 10 dyno runs of engines that he has built. The last two were EFI-Emissions Legal SBC. One of them made 425hp while the other made 500hp-the second was built from the LT5 ZR-1 Vette engine. I think you'ld be more interested in the first. It used the LT1 from the Corvette/Camaro/Firebird. They have set ups for both an automatic & 6spd. He goes on to say that either package is available in the 350 or the 383 displacements. The trick to his set up for the Automatics was to use his SuperRam Intake; while the Standards got a Ported LT1 Intake. He said Motor Trend magazine tested both his set ups in F-cars & they achieved 13.10"s/113 mph on a humid/wet track. He believed that if the track were dry his cars would've seen the low 12's as his dyno's indicated 410RWHP. The 383 version was equipped w/SuperRam Intake & w/the 6-spd T-56 they acheived peak torque of 436ft.lbs @ 4500rpm's and 440hp @ 5500rpm's carrying that HP up thru to 6000rpm's. Lingenfelter used their own Hydraulic Cam with 219/219 Degrees Duration @ .050 & .503/.525 lift and 112 Lobe Seperation Angle. Retained the LT1 heads w/a CNC porting & fitted w/Stainless Steel Valves. Used JE pistons and a 4340 Steel Oliver Rods w/a steel 3.75 Stroker Crank. Hope that gives you some idea of what you need to get the perf.out of your car. You may wish to contact his Tech Dept & see what Specs they are willing to divulge! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Correct me guys if I'm wrong but I believe that all of GM's current (1955-to now) V8 Over head Valves V8's have had a firing order of: 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. That's just from memory but I believe that is correct. The cyl's on the driver's side are the odd #'; 1,3,5,7 while the passenger's side are the even #'s: 2,4,6,8. I believe that is what you were looking for. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Hey Jason, Congrats on your purchase; lets not forget you not only got your car but you also got the Toyota Brake Swap hardware....That was a good deal; a fantastic deal-YOU OLD HORSE TRADER YOU! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Okay; Problem Solved! Just wanna thank everyone for your input. Turns out it was not the AFM; I had a gut feeling the AFM was okay...dont ask me how as I didnt even touch it & I'm not a EFI Guru; never put a meter to it..."Just Willed The AFM Into Being Okay" I guess. The culprit was the "Fuel Pump Control Relay". I decided to test the relays again...for the third time. The Fuel Pump Control Relay was fine until you allowed current to flow thru it for more than a minute; after that minute it would short out & quit working. Found another relay at the salvage yard, installed it & Engine Fired up immediately. Whewhooo! Auto Zone's Crossover book indicated that Nissan has used this exact same Relay in most of their cars from 75-95 & in the Infinity's as well; I did not know that....so if anyone ever needs this relay; dont think you have to get it from a 20-25 year old Z. AutoZone & NAPA both wanted @ $35 for a new one & said it would be a week for a special "Factory Order". I paid $25 at a salvage yard...kind of steep but he had it & I could get it now/not wait a week-so I paid the $25. Anyway, thanks again for everyones suggestions; its nice to know we have our very own "Tech Line" here at this site! Kevin, (Yes, Now a Healthy Inliner)

Jason, Sounds like you're approaching the purchase of the car properly.....slowly & methodically & above all-DONT OVERPAY. If you think it's half way decent...hope you get it! Just dont overpay & when discussing the price w/the owner dont be afraid to explain how you came up with the price you are offering. I've had some sellers that "Just Picked a Price out of Thin Air" & after I explained to them why I offered what I offered...they thanked me for explaining it too them. And, that's another good point......before you make your counter offer-Ask him how he came up w/his price. Was it a price out of thin air or was there a method to his madness? After he gives you his answer you can then tell him, "Well, this is what I think it is worth & this is why I think that" then you can explain to him how you came up w/the answer. Remember the purchasing system for rating each operating system of the car to determine what price you are going to offer; this will keep you out of trouble. And if he rejects your offer; dont get discouraged; THANK HIM FOR HIS TIME & TROUBLE...wait till next week rolls around & make the offer again! He'll probably accept it by then! Buying cars is a game & you have to go thru the process...both buyer & seller have to play the game or one/both will lose; its just a game...be a player & be a player to WIN! You are an informed BUYER-that makes you dangerous! The ball is now in your court! Good luck. Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Jason, My cautions were not to make your paranoid; but, were meant to make you aware of any possible short comings so that you can adjust your counter offer if needed. If you've been bitten by the V8Z bug (Who here hasnt) then haggle for the best deal & buy the car......all of us consider each car we have a learning car. Some of us start w/straight cars while others start w/not so straight cars & repair them as we go All projects are to be considered a learning process...till you know that car dont be afraid of it....Just Be aware of its Possible Hidden Treasures (Rust, Cut/Spliced Wires) & adjust your price accordingly. Like I said earlier; haggle for the car & what ever you put in it later, absent body/paint work) you can canabalize for another car if this one turns out not to be the one you want. Haggle for it, Buy it, then learn as you go; if you dont want it in the long run; no worry as you didnt overpay for it to begin with. Like Mike said....as soos as you buy this one-Z's will be falling from the skies. Specially since we are sneaking up on Spring. I've always watched the Auto Traders here in Dallas/Ft.Worth & we will go 2/3 weeks w/out any real contenders....then one week "BANG" there's a dozen of them! If you want it, "Haggle for it, Buy it, Learn from it & most of all HAVE FUN"...dont be paranoid....Just dont overpay for it! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by sfm12: ...but with patience and research, we can all save a lot of money.Thanks Ray! Scot S-A-L-U-T-E!! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Okay, doofus me; I left my Multi-Meter here at home so I'm back to retrieve it. However, I have made progress. I checked the spark; Plenty of spark. Jacked the rear up, supported it by stands & the fuel pump was off when the key was turned on. Turned the key off then disconnected the fuel pump leads & connected them to a jumper wire to a Battery....The Pump came on immediately. So I now know that either the Fuel Pump relay or the AFM (Ouch, Just thinking the problem may be the AFM-HURTS $$ Wise). I'm hoping for the Fuel Pump Relay. Everyone lay hands on your Monitor & Say In Unison "FUEL PUMP RELAY! The L-Jetronic book indicated that the Fuel Pump Relay comes on when the Ignition Key is turned to the on position but if the Fuel Pump Controller Relay senses that the engine is not running w/in 2 seconds it will then cut power to the Fuel Pump Relay. Further, the L-Jetronic book claimed that the Fuel Pump & Its relays obtain its power from the Ignition Key Circuit & not the ECM....Whewww! Going back out there now...should know something by tonight...starting to get dark & may have to wait till tomorrow. Keep the suggestions coming if anyone sees/thinks I'm doing something wrong. Normally not an EFI guy....but learning fast. Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Racin/Jason, Andrew gave a dollar figure for what I was hinting at when I said dont offer anything more than "Salvage Yard" prices. I dont know what car's are going for in Sunny-Cal but (Personally) I was thinking more along the lines of $250 to $400...& not a penny more!!!!! Like Andrew said; if the car was in such great condition why did he let the primer job sit for so long(?). You dont know this guy from Adam (or do you?) so dont believe him when he says..."There's no rust". If you want the car...get the car; but...& this is a "B-I-G B-U-T-T" do not overpay! If you underpay for the car, you will have nothing to worry about if it does become a Rust Bucket. Everything you put into it Mechanically Speaking can be canabalized to go into another Z. Look at it as a Car to Learn from....but dont overpay! But, I insist....dont pay anything more than Salvage Yard Prices! I also agree that you are in Prime Territory for Z's. Go do a search for 240/260/280z's at the Auto Trader Search. You will be surprised how many Z's are in your neck of the woods that may only be an hours drive away. When I began looking for my Z, I found so many Z's in the California/Arizona area that had minor eng.prob's but still ran & their paint/body looked better than the car you are looking at; they were also in original unbutchered condition. Dont get in a hurry to buy this car; if you want it...get it....BUT DONT OVERPAY! Kevin, (Still an Inliner)

Jason, Congrats on the possible purchase of the car. About it being right for you; that is a decision you'll have to make. Keep in mind; there isnt one Z swap in this forum that was a "CHEAP" swap. Even the inexpensive swaps have to have the same basic hardware one needs to have a 10 second car. The thing to remember is: When buying the car (W/Without?) the engine, is, The hard work has been done for you on this car. If you are buying it w/out the eng/trans then keep in mind the car is not a Pristine car. He will have a hard time selling that car for anything of value as it's stock appearance & functionality has been greatly altered. Most people are "SCARED STIFF" of a V8Z prepped car....so dont overbid! Most Importantly; keep this in mind. Lets say you purchase the car, build your engine/trans & the install goes flawlessly only to have the car begin to rust a year from now or something you dont like about it occurs....you still have the car as a parts car. You can always pull the eng/trans to be used in another Z. So dont be to hesitant; HAVE FUN & DONT OVERBID! Ask the owner how many other serious bids has he received? How long has it been up for sale? If he wont budge on the price/ask him if the car is that valuable why is he selling it? Remind him of what he already knows...the car was only valuable w/a running drivetrain. Other than that you have to approach the car as a "SALVAGE YARD" car only. Give a little consideration in price for the mod's he's made to the suspension; unless you dont like the mod's he's made...then tell him so (Respectfully) & remind him what you're gonna have to do to get the car to perform properly! Each time he mentions something good about the car-you counter w/something you dont like about the car. Say he mentions the primer, "Hey all you have to do is Paint the Car"! You counter with, "Yea, buts its been in primer for a long time...possible rust & any paint shop knows they will have to sand/reprimer prior to painting"! Say he goes on about the Lowered Body then you can counter with, "Yea but those are cut springs-I'm gonna have to replace them w/after market Springs to get the fell corrected!" You get the idea. Haggle, Haggle, Haggle....but do it in a respectful manner that leaves the guy w/his Humility. Dont ever cop an attitude when buying or selling a used car. It's all a game...so just remember to have fun! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by RON JONES: WOW Yea, I'll even say it backwards "WOW" & then upside down "MOM"...naa-MOM is getting weird; I'll just stick to "WOW". That's one wicked Fiero. I bet the sound of that engine being so close to the passengers is one intense adrenaline rush! Kevin, (Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 06, 2001).]

Thanks for all the suggestions; John-I forgot I had the L-Jetronic book till you mentioned it/thanks for reminding me. It had a suggestion about purging the fuel pressure system....Hook a hand held vacuum pump to the vacuum side of the Pressure Regulator-as you pump that will open the valve & purge the system....cool! I appreciate all comments about the AFM & the Offline tesing of the pump. I do have the L-Jetronic book & the factory 78 Service Manual. The factory service manual locates the Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump Control Relay and the EFI Main Relay in the Relay Bracket in the engine compartment by the Fusible Links next to the passenger front strut mount. Thanks for all the suggestions & it looks like I'm being forced to learn EFI....extremely fast/been reading all morning. Thanks everyone for your help. Kevin. (Yes, Still an Inliner)

Yea, Jim is right. There are no "Perfect" Z's that I'm aware of. I feel the emphasis on "Rust" we have mentioned is not paranoia but well placed caution. Just have fun & no matter what car you buy; Check it out, check it out good/ask a lot of questions....think about it....adjust your price/haggling accordingly & if its the car you want....GO FOR IT! No matter what car you buy; you are going to run into problems w/the swap. I think that is what this site is for.....for when one of us runs into a problem we can simply pose the question to our HybridZ bro's...Sempa-Fi! Hey Jim, I bet that shoelace was a HiPo unit from Summit or PAW? Remember, If you're not having fun then you're doing it wrong! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 05, 2001).]

"11 Years Pete" Didnt mean to steal a year from you. Yes your car is a "Work of Art". Everytime I look at it I still cant believe that someone is going to drive it. It looks like a Museum Restoration. You do have more patience than I; I'm more into the Instant Gratification Swap...I could never build a car to look like that! Seriously; your car is so clean it looks like you could eat off it! Again, "11 Years Patient Pete" didnt mean to steal a year from you! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Consider going to a Truck Salvage yard; you can find an old Chevy/GMC w/complete eng/trans still in the truck; may even still run...that way you get all the brackets & a truck eng/trans will usually be stronger than a typical passenger drivetrain. Even if you dont use the 3spd trans you can use it later as a partial trade-in/upgrade for another trans of your choice. Search around & take your time buying an engine; scour your local Part's Section in the Auto/Truck Traders over & you will usually find a wrecked car/truck w/complete running eng/trans. Watch the Auto/Truck Traders for at least a month....usually you will find some good deals in a months time! The thing w/the Auto/Truck Traders; most Used Car Dealers are also watching the Traders. They know when/where the Traders come out & they are there first-waiting for them to be delivered; Hot off the press. I've found, here in the Dallas area, where the Traders come out & when; I can get them pretty early if/when I like. FYI for those on a budget! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Isnt that what headers look like after you hit the wall on a high speed circle track? Kevin, (Still an Inliner)

1978 Inline6 4spd w/170,000 miles w/AC Alright guys; I was pulling out of a parking lot when my car died. Engine turns over very strong; amp gage shows full charge. It didnt give me any warning; as I shifted from 1st to 2nd it just.....d-i-e-d. Tried to start it immediately & eng.turned over but not even a hesitant start/spit/sputter...eng turns over fast but just "no start" at all. This car is so Bone-Stock its rather hard to believe. I bought it from the original owners who were not hotrodders & had every repair done by a Nissan Dealer or a Zshop; so I dont expect any cut/spliced wiring that may be a culprit or any surprises anywhere in its electrical system.! I say it didnt give me any warning; Now that I think about it; I have noticed in the past few weeks every now/then it would kind of not accelerate as quick in low gears as it should've....it was so slight tho (no backfire at all) I only acknowledged the hesitation & didnt do anything about it. I figured the injectors are just sluggish; Car still has 4 of the original 6 injectors! So I gave it no mind! I'm betting the fuel pump & the coil are still the original units & I have a tool for checking ignition spark. My question, is, if its the Fuel Pump what process should I go thru for checking a faulty pump or ruling out the fuel pump? I have recently replaced spark plugs, plug wires, cap/rotor...all that is mostly new. Please dont hesitate to add you .02c's worth even if it is .01c's worth. Any/all sugestions are appreciated. I'll check back here once more before I decide to go back into town to begin tinkering. Thanks for your help! Kevin (Now A Sick Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by danc: My only problem at this point is having the patientice....Dan Dan, Well Dan, you're further than I am; about patience....I didnt think anyone here had patience except maybe "10 Years Pete". Get it finished & then go kick some Honda Butt! Kevin (Yes, Still an Inliner?)

Jason, Mike made a good point; if you want the sun roof definately intend on installing a cage of some sort...Japanese metal-(the Early Days) was pretty soft to begin with. I've owned two cars w/aftermarket sun roofs; one leaked while the other didnt(?); & lets face it/they are nice when you dont have A/C or its not really hot enough to use A/C; pop the roof open & instant breese. Now, about the HP needed to get a Z into the 12's. I"m glad you asked 'My Son' because the Doctor is in; put a nickel in the cup & close the door on you way in. If you use a 240z (Believe they're @ 2600lbs) you're looking somewhere @ 2900lbs w/you in it & a full tank of gas. With that weight running your trans 1.00:1 (3rd gear in TH350) all you would need is: A SBC making 400 Flywheel HP; multiply that 400 FLywheel HP by .15% loss from flywheel to the drive wheels & your wheels are seeing @ 340 RWHP. 400Hp for a SBC is not that hard as we all know! "That engine alone will get you a theoretical ET = 11.9; doesnt take into account wheelspin nor slow reaction time, but, you get the idea. Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)