bjhines

ok... I need to replace struts... I pulled the struts out of some sectioned housings I did not originally install.... The front dampers are Tokico Illumina BR-3099.... What stock application does this fit? Is there a better drop in choice?

Seafoam is not a cure all.... It is a solvent... It will remove crud and gunk...by flushing it through the fuel system and into the cylinders and out through the exhaust... If you run it through a vac hose into the intake manifold.. it will wash all of the buildup through the cylinders and out the exhaust... If you have a great deal of gunk in your fuel/intake system.. it can foul your plugs... coat O2 sensors.... and plug up the cat... If you put it in your oil... it can loosen deposits in chunks that can plug drain passages and clog the pickup screen... ====================================================== The thing to consider here is..... Do you have large amounts of deposits that should be cleaned another way????? An old mechanic's trick is to run the engine at idle with Kerosene or mineral spirits in the oil.... then drain and REMOVE THE PAN.... then they wash everything down with solvents and a brush... lifter valley, valve covers, oil pan etc... If your intake needs cleaning.. then remove it and clean accordingly... usually the throttle body and/or EGR areas are the only parts that get really nasty. If your fuel tank has gunk and trash in it.. then you need to remove the tank and have it professionally cleaned. (BTW There is a drain on the S-30 tanks). Once you have cleaned everything carefully... you can run the Seafoam through the engine to get deposits you may have missed...(like exhaust valves)

LOL..... What flyswatter..... Isn't putting a V8 in a Zcar leaning a little more towards the cannon...

Ummm... blue... that first part is hard to follow.... I think EZ-E has done his research.... It sounds like he has the right idea.... But the addition of a stiffer pressure plate is the only way to get increased throw AND a stiffer pedal.

OK... I inspected a couple of front covers.... Tony may be on to something... or it may just be extreme age... There is definitely a possibility of substantial erosion in the raised ring that the blades follow closely.... I found one that shows significant erosion damage... pics to follow...... I also have an E31 head that blew through the water jacket into an exhaust port... Which would be a boiling point... I am not entirely sure of the state that some of these parts were run in... stock or not.... But these are known issues with these parts under normal high mileage operation.... I would not attribute these to changes in stock cooling flow(more like lack of maintenance)... the E31s are thinwalled compared to other models and this one is full of orange rust and deposites...the eroded front cover is also rusty and caked with grit.

It really is stealth..... I like the stock look from pulling them like that...

you have to be kidding.... ALL the front covers I have seen ruined.... were OBVIOUSLY ruined by the ailling/failing waterpumps... cavitation is not what I have seen at work.... Funny how a common problem that is obvious to anyone who looks.... is now some sort of astrophysical anomaly caused by removing a useless hose barb.

for you guys who are experiencing cooling problems.... Take a closer look at your front cover, water pump cavity....there are some very thin/ close tolerance details in there that are commonly fubared when a water pump failed... many folks just fix the pump, radiator, fan, clutch... but they entirely miss the fact that the front cover is ruined as well... I had a 240Z with cooling problems... I eventually swaped front covers during head work.... and my cooling problems dissapeared... =================================================================================================== I have an oversize waterpump pulley and a 5" Moroso alternator pulley... The larger waterpump pulley made a noticeable improvement in coolant temps during track use(5k to 7kRPM)... but it made the engine overheat faster at stoplights in street traffic.. it also greatly decreased the effectiveness of my electric cooling fans in slow traffic... now I switch waterpump pulleys and belts for track events and street use. The MOROSO alternator pulley is for a 300zx lightweight alternator made by mitsubishi... it wont make power below 2kRPMs... it is now a 1 to 1 ratio... combine that with a tiny, deep cycle, race battery.. and the ignition can begin to have trouble at idle speeds with all the lights and accessories on... but I don't fry alternators twice a year either... there are always trade offs... race VS street use

I like the type 3 FG airdam that motorsport sells... but it would have to be easily removable for me to use it.. I could not get my car on and off the trailer with that air dam. I am using urethane with a modified splitter... I have used 2 of these and I am impressed with their toughness....

I run an L24 in one of my track cars... I removed the coolant feed from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold when I installed earlier 4 screw carbys that did not have the coolant passages.. I have since installed triple DCOE45s and still have this port blocked off... It made absolutely no difference in temps on track in summer 95* days.. adding an oil cooler did not make much of a difference in coolant temps either... it sure keeps the oil pressure up though... I have installed a new heater core on this same vehicle and reconnected the lines as stock.... that made absolutely ZERO difference as well... of course i dont run the heater in the summer.. so I would not expect it to make any difference... The "bypass lines" are just there to heat the manifold quickly in winter... it is simply an emmisions related system... PLUG IT AND RUN.... there are plenty of people building race engines that will agree.... and present their opinions in a respectful manner... I mistrust anyone who arrogantly insists they are right and everyone else is wrong all of the time... that is a sure sign they have issues with truth and facts.

well... no lock???? that is scary... My booster went out on a run down Tail of the Dragon last year.... I could still lock all 4 wheels... I had normal pedal height.. just a lot harder pedal... That was stock rotors with Carbotech XP9 pads in Toyota calipers.. I went to a vented set up soon after that and replaced the booster as well.. the new brakes work fine with no booster as well... cold or hot... I had plugged the vac lines when I was tuning the DCOES... I had no trouble stopping it.. just a harder pedal.. still easy to lock...

I obtained a set of spacers used.... with calipers and rotors on a wrecked car.. I figured I would just swap them onto my running track 240Z... Well..... wasn't that a lot tougher than it had to be.... I ordered caliper seal kits.. sandblasted and painted the cailper bodies...cleaned and reassembled them....good as new.. nice pistons too. I sent 2 sets of 1984 300ZX rotors to the local shop to have them turned... I figured this would be a half day event..swap em bleed em and burn em... Well... first off.. part numbers???? I ordered caliper seals for a 1988 toyota four runner.... WRONG!!! that caliper has big and small pistons, staggered.... My calipers had 4 large pistons of the same size... I own a 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser.. and i recognized these pistons.... Sure enough The seal kit for a Land cruiser has the correct seals...but the Land Cruiser's calipers used banjo bolts instead of the flare fittings on mine...Hmmmmm... there is another version of this caliper..but I didn't figure it out... at least the seals and boots were the same... secondly....fitment?????? I got one set of rotors back turned in good condition.. the others were so heat checked they did not turn them... I carefully cleaned and reassembled the spacers and the hubs... and I bolted the freshly cut and cleaned rotors on with 35ft/lbs torque... I mounted the brake system on the car and checked fitment and runout... bent ears?????? The drivers side caliper interfered with the rotor...evidently one of the mounting ears on my strut was bent in a previous life...There is VERY little clearance for the disk in this set up.. I eventually got it right... bent rotors????? Both freshly turned rotors had significant runout... 0.25mm left side and 0.6mm on the right side... ouch!!! spec is <0.20mm... It turns out that the way to do this is to mount the rotors on the hubs and take the assembly to the machine shop and have them turned on the hubs. I found this out the hard way by ordering NEW rotors from NAPA... they were even worse.. I bitched and moaned and returned them... I ordered a new set from "Mountain Brakes"... they are Japanese rotors.. and they were better but still out of round more than spec..... I had the new Mountain rotors turned on the hubs and got it right.... I tried clocking the rotors 90* and 180*.. I clocked the spacers too.. The warp was always the rotors... not the hubs and spacers... I did find a set of bad hubs(race turned in hub body)... and those hubs also had a few loose lugs... I chucked those in the trash... I ended up with new bearings and seals installed with new cotterpins and grease caps on a good set of 240Z hubs... Ohh... on a final note... You can get a male to male flare adaptor from Pegasus racing that will allow you to simply plug the stock brake lines into the back of the calipers... very neat... Some folks may need an AN#4 adaptor to male flare... you will have to look at your lines if you are running stainless/teflon...

http://www.revolutionwheels.com/classic_fivespoke.shtml You are talking about tires for the 15 x 10 Revolutions.... I will get my guy to check on availability Monday... I will post a few pics of them also....