bjhines

nothing unususal... It simply will not move all the way to the floor under ANY circumstances (Booster or hydraulic ram or Hercules) unless... the seals are blown, there is a leak, there is air in the line, you have a broken/loose caliper, the pedal box/firewall is broken or the rear brake parts are not assembled... that is it... and I still don't think it will move all the way to the floor even if half the system is nonexistant.. front or rear... Your booster works fine... forget about the fact that it easily moves the pedal most of it's stroke... it is working... the hydraulic system is to blame... all those valves and tees and switch and gack in the system can and will eventually fail... but none of it will allow the pedal to go to the floor without leaking fluid out of the system... look for leaks... check that all parts are assembled in such a way that it LOOKS like it will apply the pads to the friction surfaces... How much fluid did you put through the system when bleeding?... you can waste a lot more fluid bleeding than the system actually holds... I never wait any amount of time when bleeding a dry system.. a little air pressure to force fluid into the master cyl while pumping the pedal is all it takes to get things going... I push hard and fast on the apply stroke.. and I release very slowly to allow fluid to enter the system(3-4 secs)... I try to repeat the strokes as quickly as possible to keep air moving through the system... I use a hose attached to the bleed nipple (thread sealant on nipple threads)... I run the hose into a bottle and keep it submerged... this keeps air from re-entering the calipers when you release the pedal.... works every time... I have YOUR system but with the smaller 240Z master cyl.... ohh and remember to bleed 1. driver rear 2. passenger rear 3. passenger front 4. driver front rinse and repeat....

Get the popular manual for the Datsun 240/260/280Z cars at your local autozone.... $12-14... money well spent... there are a couple of different publishers... lots of pictures and chapters with indexes... You needs to torque the castle nuts to 20ft/lbs (while spinning the wheel) and then back them off 60* or so... you should use a new cotter pin and bend it properly so that it does not rub the grease cap. It can be tricky to find a torque wrench that accurately reads as low as 20ftlbs... Sears Craftsman has one that is affordable... you should use a torque wrench for EVERY DAMN BOLT!!! those disk to hub bolts are important... you can easily warp the disks by overtightening them... ESPECIALLY with the aluminum spacers... I would have the new disks turned on the hubs before I reinstalled the calipers and hubs....

there is a problem with your left front caliper.. return it This assumes that you cleaned everything properly (pads and disks).... contamination will cause this as well...

more information.... Do the brakes STOP the car.... engine running or not... If you have not pushed it and stoped it with the new set up then you have not finished the job... Make sure the rear drums are installed and adjusted with wheels on and lugs tight... rears have little clickers that are activated by the hand brake lever... keep pulling until they stop clicking... reassemble the front brakes with pads and pins... press the pedal hard a few times.... It should not budge beyond half way with your *** hovering from pressing the pedal hard... if it goes beyond this then you still have air in your lines.... you can bench bleed them before hand... but if the resivoirs ever emptied between the bench and the finished installation you wasted your time. If you are a wimp.. or you dont want to cave in your rusty firewall then run the engine and press almost as hard.... 150LBS of pressure on the pedal at least... if the pedal moves more than half way then you have air in your lines... BTW... the pedal should actually support your weight for an extended period of time... it should not sink gradually... I have vented rotors with the S12W calipers and rear drums... I am using the original 240Z master... I run the car on track... the brakes work without problems under extreme conditions... I also flush the entire sytem regularly...

I thought about the leather idea... but the original 240Z diamond vinyl looks fAntastic... it is very 70s flashback as well...

someone has been at that car with some sheet metal and a poor skill level... The entire floor pan is one piece from rocker to rocker including the tranny tunnel... it has a seam along the front at bottom of firewall and a seam in the rear behind the rear seat rail... Here are mine... original.. little rust...

I am doing all the welding so far... I am no expert though... My job right now is to prepare the chassis with all of the mounting plates... I have a professional fabricator friend who is going to come over and make all the critical welds and fine fitment on the cage tubing... I am fitting all the tubes and just tacking them into place... My buddy knows how to knock it down and weld it in sections and push them back into place... He also knows how to get into corners and areas that I cannot reliably weld... The tricks I am still learning... are how to set up the machine and change my movement to properly weld different thickness sheets together... The picture of the rear hoop reinforcement plate is nasty... that is the result of a second pass that was not properly cleaned before it was made...

I decided to let a little extra air out into the wheel wells... the fenders have "gill vents" that will work well with this...

More progress on the cage this week... Chassis tie in plates... 1/8" custom formed for the rockers welded in... rear hoop tie in plates... rear strut tower boxes... punched and flanged... rear floor frame and fuel cell mount... subframe connectors... 1x3 run from TC buckets to rear diff member... they fit below floor...

Here are the more conventional subframe conector type that I made... They are 1"x3"... 14 gauge with a weld seam... They tie the entire length of the floor pan from the bottom of the TC buckets to the differential front mount... I placed the seam up and cut lightening holes into the upper surface...

hmm... flow straightening would be a useful idea in your design... take a look at what the Wright Bros used for their tunnel.. .. Anyone ever consider that modern cheap cameras can be had for relatively little money.. they are small and fit into interesting locations.... Little tabs of soft yarn taped across the entire surface of areas you want to test can be videotaped in motion at various speeds... even in the engine compartment and under the car... this won't give you any hard data on overall drag... but it might help more than the homemade wind tunnel.... I am not trying to discourage.... the wind tunnnel is a NEAT project... I never thought I could attain the desired data without spending more time and money on the test apparatus than the subject of the test...

I could not give out their information while I was in the middle of a transaction... I paid ~$400.... E-bay... It is dated 2000.. which makes it out of date for any serious purpose... It is brand new though.. never had gas in it.... I found prices as high as $2879.00 when it was new...

Here are some pics of my recent aquisition... I have been trying to find a good fitting fuel cell for my hybrid project for 6 months... I finally SCORED!!!! This thing is LOADED with nice features.... twin pumps inside trapdoor sump... with 58PSI regulator mounted on the pump plate. I am going to be using a bypass regulator to reduce pressure for carby use... I am also ordering a custom remote fill plate to make use of my factory S-30 fuel door... because the car may be stored in an attached garage at some point.. I am adding a carbon canister sytem for the vent...

didn't California try to put a lock on everyone's oil pan drain plug???? They are trying to put the average home mechanic out of his own reach...

Yes ground and neutral can be connected together at the main panel(and ultimately are the same for the transformer)... but for many reasons they should not be confused on the receptacle end... they are very similar in operation... but the ground ciruitry at receptacles can become dangerous if it is confused/involved with neutral(away from the main panel). I never said that every instance of this stuff you find is going to be correct... and there is more than one way to skin the cat... as a general rule... all of your wire should be the same guage... ground is the same guage in all of the electrical wire I buy... obviously some builders/installers can get away a little cheaper on the grounding since it is not used very often before the breaker shuts off... but.. I am talking about the wiring between the panel and the receptacle... it should all be the same... What your electrician did for grounding wire in you subpanel is a different story than what anyone would add to the system... the main hot wires in your panel and the neutral buss wires are large because they may have to handle a lot of circuits at the same time... the ground is only used for ONE circuit at a time(hopefully)... soo that ONE part of the grounding circuit MAY/CAN be smaller...... To sum it up... 1. the ground, hot, neutral wires for any one circuit should be the same guage.. or damn close... 2. the grounding at sub panels and main panels can be smaller.. because it only needs to handle ONE circuit at a time(hopefully). 3. neutral and ground are completely different circuits... don't confuse this... what happens at the MAINS panel has nothing to do with the rest of the branches.. I have found circuits that were using ground as a neutral for years... until one day it suddenly caused havoc due to changes/issues in another part of the system... I am not an electrician.. but I have to tie lighting and production systems for TV into building subpanels all the time... we find these mistakes in the building wiring REGUALRLY... and I have to fix it....

I would love to have a nitrogen bottle for my track gear... I just don't have an enclosed trailer for that kind of gear... There are several groups runnnig Nitrogen in their tires that I change tires for... The times I paid attention.. I recall seeing 2 valve stems... Most of the teams have us mount the tires using our dessicant dried air supply.. then they purge them at their trailers... Me at the balancer.... PBOC Sebring c.Jan06 Here is what makes those wheels go round and round... ...

25A would do the trick

actually.... the number of conductors listed depends on the type of wire... flexible multistrand "SO" cable lists ALL wires including ground.. because they are all insulated individually... Romex, BX, and other permamnent installed cables do not list ground in the conductor counts... because the ground is not individually insulated.... you should not use a breaker any larger than you need to operate the welder... most welders draw less than 15 AMPs... a 20AMP breaker is correct for this use... I will not comment on wire guage... but I will comment on the fact the solid strand wire CANNOT BE SUBJECTED TO FLEXING.... it must be contained in an electrical box and fastened to structural members every 16 inches... a short pigtail of multistranded "SO" cable is used to jump from the box to the welder... 220V outlets should have a cutoff switch/pull contacts at the point of use... you should not mess with ANY(dryer included) 220V outlet without turning the breaker or switch off FIRST.... Grounds should be the same guage as the other conductors..... this is important... you can cause a fire if you fail to match all of the conductors guages.. including ground. Ground and neutral have no common purpose... they are completely independant... there is NO CASE where ground and neutral work together... DO NOT MAKE THIS MISTAKE... EVER!!!!

Whew... you might want to consider having an electrician come out and wire the thing for you... What I have done for my garage is cheat.. I won't even dicuss what I did with 2 circuits... But what I have done for mobile applications is probably what most folks need to do... 10 Guage 3 conductor wire... "SO" cable... flexible, abrasion and chemical resistant.... it is $2.75 per foot.... expect to spend some $$$$ for a 75 footer.... wire that directly into you welder box... then attach a dryer plug to the other end... run it onto the house and don't slam the door on it...

I purchased the type 3 side skirts... I will eventually get to installing them... But i like the way they will look with the ZG fenders...

You should use the same guage sheet metal to repair the floors and such... If you want stiffness then you will need to add a cage... In the process of installing a cage... It might be wise to strip and seam weld the entire chassis... Buying and installing the engine is only a small part of the task of building a high performance hot rod.

NICE!!!!!! When I read that the V12s could be had for 500-1500$$$... my jaw dropped... That seems hard to believe.. considering a GSX Motorcycle engine would cost at least that much... usually more.... Is that in American dollars... in American juckyards???? If it is.. then I am dropping the idea of the $4000 Chevy V8 track engine... V-12 here i come...!!! What do the matching BMW manual trannies go for...???

I stacked the parts during assembly... first you mount the box... then you slide in the air horns.... then you slip the clamps and nuts on the studs... it is all held in place together... I'll try to find a pic with the cover off...

NICE TRAILER MIKE!!!! can I camp out in it @ VIR in Nov..???? LOL...jk Mark and I have been camping in Sam's trailer at events and it is a huge money and time saver. Get some heat and AC installed... stow some air mattresses in the cabinets... you could charge $25 a nite...

This was not an easy to manufacture airbox... but with the airbox and baffle... I have drasticly reduced intake temps... These are some shots of the aluminum baffle plate between the carbs and header... It is kind of buried in there.. but it has cut outs to fit around exhaust runners near head.... and there is onlt a 1/16" gap between it and the back of the airbox... ...