bjhines

The factory pressure port is on the oil return at the back top of the block right where it feeds to camshaft, crank, and lifter gallerys. The temps just keep climbing as long as i keep my foot in it. I want to run more than 3 laps with relatively stable temps.

I have a 1964 327 SBC in my road race car. The car has a 3qt Accusump, oil cooler, thermostat/cooler-bypass, Z28 oil pump, Corvette 6qt pan, block hugger headers(no room for kickouts). I am having multiple issues with oiling for this engine combo. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ First issue; pressure drop when hot. COLD OIL: 35PSI idle 60PSI 3k RPM 190 degrees warm: 25PSI idle 40PSI 3k RPM 240 degrees HOT: 20PSI idle 30PSI 3k to redline This all seems a little low to me, but It is not so bad that I was worried about it until I saw the HOT oil pressure get so low. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Second issue; HEAT. My oil temp sender is in the oil pan just above the drain plug. My oil temps are only approaching water temps under "normal" driving conditions. ~190 degrees. My problem comes from the fact that the temps rise QUICKLY when I am on track. Once the car is warmed up I will generally see 210 degrees. When I really get on it with sustained 4k+ RPMS the oil temp will climb in just minutes to 240+ and continue to climb until I give it a cooldown lap. I never let it get past 270 this weekend and I watched the temp gauge like a hawk. The water temps NEVER go above 190 and stay VERY STABLE under all conditions. This puzzles me because I have a large, stacked plate cooler with it's own fan. The bypass closes at 165 and the oil cooler fan kicks on at 185 degrees. This should be plenty to cool the oil(unless there is not enough flow through the system to properly cool the oil). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Third issue; starvation in high G corners. I have a 3qt Accusump with the 20 PSI EPC valve. This is wired to a light and a buzzer to let me know when it is working. At Carolina motorsports park I get intermitant beeps from the EPC valve on tight corners with hard braking just before turn in(turn 14 at CMP). I do not notice the problem on long sustained corners(like carousel). The pan is a "normal/stock" 6 qt with stock baffle plate, no kickouts, and 3/8" clearance to the pickup. .....

yes... I will be @ CMP.. I'll be getting in fri evening.

found modified and installed... with apparent success. The bracket holds the swivel hose ends in relation to the block. The ends are direct to 1/2"NPT with an O-ring swivel. This should keep things intact and sealed

all fixed up and ready for next event. ...

I had a bad day at the track with a small fire and all. It cleaned up fine and is back together for another track day soon. damage was minimal.

Need more info. Like others have brought up, We need to know what pads you are using, existing factory components, rear disk make and model, etc. I am thinking that this is a mismatched system at best. You might be able to change pad types and get better bias, but the temperature would become a critical part of the equation since many high friction compounds don't grip until they are HOT.

Mike.. I have soft springs using Illumina struts. I can't use much more than 275# springs with these struts. I cut the rear fender so high it has next to no turn down on the inner wheel well. Basically this is the limit unless you remove the inner wheel wells and tub the back. The cut will be significantly higher than the body lateral line you used as a guide.

Thanks guys, If you are using a 1968 or later block, then you have a lot of available options. The folks at Canton and Moroso said they have maybe one request every few years for an early block adapter. I was shocked to find out just how few people are using the early blocks. There are some other options available from Hamburger, but you need to be careful because Hamburger re-brands "Transdapt" cast adapters as well as billet custom adapters. The billet adapters have the O-ring groove at the outermost area to mate to the early blocks, but the center section will need further machining.

I love Summit racing's Customer service. They are shipping me a Moroso 23770 Oil filter bypass plate and covering all the extra shipping costs. Apparently this Moroso piece needs some machining to work on the early blocks but it will do the job just fine. The Canton part cannot be machined to work with the early blocks and must be returned. This oil filter mishap has been an incredible pain in the ass and nearly cost me the entire vehicle and years of work. I feel lucky I didn't loose everything and I will never trust any weirdo assemblage of adapters again.

I spoke to someone at Canton about this. They don't make a filter adapter to fit the early blocks. I will have to return the adapter and rethink this issue.

I am trying to simplify the oil cooler adapter on my 1964 SBC 327 block. The engine had a bypass eliminator mated to a "spin-on" filter adapter which was mated to a spin-on oil cooler adapter. This turned out badly for me a few weeks ago with the adapter blowing off the bottom of the block and causing a small, but messy fire and oiling the track. I ordered a Canton Racing Products #22-580, "Bolt-On" oil cooler adapter to fit SBC 1955-1987 blocks. This is not working out like it should. The adapter bolts are 5/16" and the block is tapped for 1/4" bolts. Easy enough to drill and tap larger, but there are bigger issues, the large outer O-ring does not mate up to the http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/bjhines/V8%20240Z%20project/Oil%20system/canisterfilter.jpg[/img]"]early canister style filter mounting area. It appears that the original canister O-ring should be used instead of the Canton supplied O-ring, but I was just going to run this by you guys first. I purchased 2 different brand canister filters to get the large O-rings, but they are much different thicknesses. One is way too thick to allow the adapter to fit against the inner-most mounting surface for the return. The other one is much thinner but it still holds the inner-most mount surface too far away. I could/would cut a groove in the adapter to suit the canister-O-ring's added thickness but they are all a little different. Here is a pic of the old-style canister mounting area. The first step is where the canister rim seals with a square profile O-ring. The adapter's O-ring groove is too small and lands inside that first step. Here is a line diagram of the later style filter mounting area and a drawing of the entire oil system on the later style blocks ..

I just had an HPDE student with a project 280Z track car. I must say... I think I would have failed it at tech inspection. The guy was old enough and careful enough that I chose to ride along anyway. A few of the issues were. 1. original factory seatbelts. 33 year old seatbelts that were crispy and wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy out of date considering my high end, 6 point harnesses go in the trash after 5 years. 2. original seats. I could not stay in one place without bracing myself diagonally, slumped so low I could barely see over the dashboard. Impossible position that would ensure I was killed the moment we hit anything. 3. Rusty fender decided to become a wing and deployed at high speed. 4. old as hell worn out struts would allow the suspension to bottom out and seemed unpredictable at best. If you cannot even keep yourself in the seat in an upright position then you cannot rely on any of the safety equipment to do it's job.

What the hell is a tax RETURN? I'm freelance, self employed. I owe thousands of dollars this time of year. I empty the bank account to pay taxes including property tax etc. YOU PAY TAXES, you don't get money from TAXES. The real question is what the government did with all your money it held onto all year long. They should owe you interest as well as pay you back.

one side is significantly longer than anything used in the normal CLSD diffs.

The VLSD shafts are different than the standard/CLSD output shaft stubs. You would need to use the output stubs that came with the SVX diff and modify them for use in your Z.

It looks like a 1960s era Cobra Daytona coupe. Enzo would indeed roll over.

The monoball will always take the damping load, It also will take huge peak loads if you bottom the shock and jam things tight. Bottoming out the shock is what pounds out the monoballs. The needle bearings allow the spring/strut to rotate for steering and to relieve torsion build up in the spring on the rears.

Mittler Bros. Machine http://mittlerbros.com/aircraft-punch.php

Hole saw all the way... Twist drills are a big nono on sheet metal. knockout punches are good, if you can fit them into the piece you are working on. These things do take some experience to use properly. I can do things with bits and saws that would make your mother cry and the insurance company drop your ass.

TA vents; inner venting; ...

I'm there with ya on this one.

Hey Mike! I am planning on an April debut with Triangle Z Club/THSCC as well. We will both be broken down or wishing for parts after the first few sessions so we can hang out and watch everyone else.

I see the point, The 4,5,6 coolant is constantly bypassing the sensor. But if the engine was overheating then it will still overheat. ...UNLESS.... The overall efficiency of the system has improved due to reduced steam pockets and surface effects. This was Tony's point all along.