bjhines

yeeeeeeeeeeeee haaawwwwwwwwww !!!!!!!! ...

nice idea for the front half of the exhaust!

I have seen S30 front clips pretty badly rusted. Crash damage can leave a lot of exposed metal inside areas that are not repainted. If the car was later exposed to road salt or even mouse urine or other vermin it can rust rapidly and spread like cancer. The water may be condensation due to brine and NOT a constant water leak.

The Datsun is going to be harder to drive with limited suspension adjustment and rear drum brakes. It is very light and powerful though.

I owned a 1985 MR2. I don't think you will have much trouble beating the MR2. The MR2 is peppy but it does not have the power to outrun a 240Z on a road course.

The corner marker lights can short out and ground to the body panels. That might explain the lights problem. The alternator diodes can fail when there are short circuits, Failed alternator diodes will discharge the battery.

I am still working on this design. I like the way this one performs, but I think that a different design using OP-AMPs would be more stable and easier to adjust. The differential inputs on the op amps could be used to eliminate errors due to voltage variations and ambient temperatures.

My swaybar is the rear mounted type. It needs short links to get under the CV boots. The best fit is with the factory style boots, The aftermarket boots do not have the necked down portion where the shaft hits. My shafts are in contact with the swaybar at full droop, They clear just fine when the car is on the ground.

PWM controllers can pulse at virtually any frequency. 100hz up to Megahertz range are typical. The performance of the transistors and LEDs are the determining factor for frequency. Most PWMs are designed with frequencies above the audible range to eliminate noise problems(20,000 to 30,000hz). There are always issues with harmonics, and some transistors will get hot when cycled too rapidly with high current flow. The actual waveform can vary with good designs achieving slew rates measured in nanoseconds. Inductive loads require lower pulse frequencies to overcome low-pass filtering effects. This is why your cordless drill has an audible squeal when you push the trigger(1000hz-3000hz). Diodes have a forward voltage threshold that must be reached to allow current to flow(~1v). Good diodes can pass a large current without overheating. LEDs are not good diodes, They have high internal resistance and will produce significant amounts of heat. All diodes will overheat if current is not limited. A resistor is the simplest current limiting device used. Most diodes work well with ~1000 OHMs to limit current in a 12 volt system. You cannot hook up more than just a few diodes in parallel(2 or 3 typical) with one resistor. Internal resistance varies too much(tolerances are crap for LEDs) to allow large parallel networks. Arrays must be designed with complex parallel/series arrangements of resistors and LEDs. In the case of dashboard lighting, ALL of the LEDs are in parallel so each must have it's own resistor. It's handy how they do that for you.

The LOM-59 unit to fit the R-200s was completely different than the factory unit. 6 disks per side for 12 total low ramp angles Forged cross instead of single pin Zero thrust side gears for constant internal gear lash very low preload for better turn in overall larger and stronger components

Morbias, That is a great choice, except you might want to divorce the pot for mounting purposes. You can get an appropriate value, long-shaft pot at Radioshack and cut it to length. The on-off switch is redundant.

This is not Zcar.com and I was referring to the new member who brings up "need resistors". Morbias, You have posted questions, pictures, and results. This is EXACTLY what we want to provide on this forum. Thank you very much for this post, as it may provide someone else with help in the future. We try to keep the fluffery out of the posts. There are plenty of folks who know how things work and post real answers. The PWM circuit can be purchased from a variety of sources or built using a 555 timer chip. I will spend a little time and see what I can find for you guys to purchase rather than DIY. I'll get back to this.

The Grrrr was for the ignorance of electricity. I am glad the situation is solved. If you don't know the answer then don't type a bunch of bullshit. I know where you got the "need resistors with LEDs" crap and it does not apply, does the word "Thermal flasher" mean anything when talking about dash lights? You guys are going to find a lot of issues when you go changing incandescents to LEDs. LEDs are not at all like light bulbs. If you want to dim the dash LEDs then you will need to replace the dimmer potentiometer with a variable duty cycle PWM circuit. That can be built with $10 worth of radio shack parts and it works like a champ... unless you still have a few incandescents in the circuit and you fry the output devices. problems problems problems. If your tach is not working then someone has changed your ignition/coil circuit(ignorantly bypassed the ballast resistor). I am willing to bet your tach DOES WORK when your key is in the START position. You need to trace the wires according to the factory diagram and hook them up correctly. The tachometer is in series with the coil with a ballast resistor bypass in the start-key position. The factory tach and ignition circuit is sketchy and could use a more modern approach. Bypassing the ballast resistor can allow the start position to back-feed all of the ignition related circuits through much smaller gauge wires. This is not a problem when used intermitantly, but there are quite a few ways this can bite you in the ass.

grrrrr. Light Emitting DIODE. You have them in backwards. Operational characteristics of a Diode is the KEY to your problem

Owens Corning makes pink sheet styrene foam for insulating under concrete slabs. Foamula is the name IIRC. Concrete oriented building supply places will have it in 1" and 2" thick sheets.

I have had people ask me how much $$$? to build a car. Every time I give them a price they walk away. You consider that many of us spend a weekend on some small project that has very little real cost like the Honda Wiper upgrade. I completed the project including all the research and picking the parts to use, modifying the bracket and building the park relay module. Now that I have done it I can do it again without much time spent. If I did that same job for another person it would cost them far more than it cost me. I would buy a rebuilt motor ~$150, I would buy a new relay and holder as well as charge for wire, sleeving and terminals($50) I would charge every minute for time to remove, modify, and replace the parts. I would also charge for the time to clean the pivots and realign everything($500 labor). We are now talking about a $500-$700 with room to grow if you include new wiper arms and all the time to clean the cowl box area while it's open.

Well... A freind of mine bought a 2 year old BMW 335 twin turbo with a bunch of mods for less than half of it's new price. The first owner lost a lot more money than you on a new car with bullshit mods that made it slower and less valuable. My buddy got all of the original parts with the purchase of the car. He is converting it all back to factory and selling off the aftermarket parts for profit. When he is done he will sell the car as factory condition for more than he paid for it and he is profiting from all the mods he is removing. So there.. You can profit by UN-MODIFYING a car. I have made money on numerous cars in the past. I was also willing to drive junk most of the time so the money was fairly small. I bought several basket case 240Zs and reassembled them for profit. None of them were nice cars before or after. I just made them functional/sellable. I did OK for time spent but I didn't make $100/hour or anything like that. I have made money on trucks here in North Carolina. Trucks are valuable if they run, Period... Find one that does not run, Drag it home, Fix it with junk parts, Sell it for a tidy profit. I used to keep a functioning V8 and tranny on hand at all times for this very reason. I would see them advertised as junk for tow away and fix them for less than 1k and sell them for 3k. I have a track and time trials habit. That hobby costs more in tires and brake parts than a decent 240Z every year. So it really comes down to a hobby for me. I built a really nice V8 240Z and I intend to go through thousands in tires, failures, crash, and wear items the first few years I run it. The cost of the car becomes irrelevant after a few years of track duty.

I have had more backspacing on other wheels hit the framerail lip(in front of the wheel) and the TC rod(behind the wheel). It is annoying in the driveway/parking lot. It is pretty much normal for other cars as well when you start upsizing wheels and tires.

hehehe... Ferrari won't let you buy limited run cars from a dealer unless you pass muster. I believe that is usually cleared with the check, but they do say you need a Ferrari in your stable to get on the list. I have a BMW M3 and the BMW crowd is half and half enthusiast at best. Most of the them are dreamers who are never going to actually drive their cars on a track. They are too frustrating to bother communicating with.

or place the FPR after the rail with the return directly to the tank. This depends on the FPR you choose.

The outrageous challenge races are what make me watch.

If you achieve enough cooling fan flow to allow some hot water to bypass the exchange(lack of shroud) then you are overcooling the part of the water that did exchange heat. This is wasting power by running the fan at a higher wattage than is required. It puts excess load on the alternator, It may discharge the battery if the alternator is not producing enough power at idle to keep up with fan demands.

If you need a cooling fan AT ALL, This means that you need to move more air through the radiator than will flow without assistance. A fan shroud is just as important as high CFM flow. Every moden car has a good shroud. thousands of factory designs back up the importance of a proper fan shroud. Your insistance that it is a waste of time flys in the face of millions of dollars of REAL DESIGN by professionals with the equipment to determine what works. If you are OVER-COOLING the water(requiring a hot bypass) then you need better FAN CONTROL(I have more experience than anyone else in this discussion on this part). Allowing hot water to bypass the exchange in the radiator is piss poor design. WE are talking about IMPROVING the antique system. I will insist that a shroud is equally important to CFM flow. I was the person in this discussion who stated wattage requirements and the need for a good shroud. If you can pump enough air with a 2" impeller then you will definitely need a shroud to spread out the flow. BTW I had great first time sex. The older girl next door was truly freaky and FUN!!!! She was also the best looking minx I have ever gotten my paws on since. Good memories... hmmmm.......where is that yearbook?...

Tony, You CANNOT justify letting hotwater bypass the cooled area of the radiator. A good fan shroud is important. Datsun even improved the shroud on later S30 models. If you have some proof otherwise then pony it up boy. Tony once argued that a CAST IRON MANIFOLD is LIGHTER than a tubular header. When I weighed each he claimed that all scales were all inaccuarate. This is heading down the same path. I grow sick of your poor judgement. I have more important and more interesting poionts to discuss.

Well... I just don't understand this logic. Poor shrouding just means hot water goes straight through and into the outlet tank. If the radiator is too big then get a smaller one. Why would you "de-pot" a fan controller? when you can make a new one "un-potted". Why did you choose the temp ranges you did. I would never intentionally use a 160f thermostat, where did you get that? I am pretty sure that a proper radiator and a proper fan would allow a much higher operating temp thermostat. If your engine can't reach operating temps in cold weather then you have a MAJOR cooling system flaw.