johnc

http://www.dailypilot.com/articles/2009/09/22/topstory/dpt-emergency092309.txt

Bad news - the shaft was cut .100 undersize per a drawing error. The prototype set is scrap and on Monday we're cutting a new set. This one will be all one piece, no welding.

The Dutch are a very determined people. Nothing stops them once they start on a task. http://jalopnik.com/5366788/dutchman-flips-tractor-trailer-while-masturbating-doesnt-stop

OS Giken is planning on displaying their TC24- B1 engine in their booth at SEMA this year. They have been talking about making a limited run of that engine again for those that might be interested. Think six figures if you want one. FYI... The TC24-B1 was not just the twin cam head. It including intake and exhaust manifolds, linkage, carbs, pistons, rods, timing chain and tensioner, and more. They also made a four cylinder version called the TC16-MA2.

For brake lines you can order a complete set from Classic Tube for around $250. I think they also sell a complete fuel and return line set too. Fuel line is 6mm and return line is 4mm. The car is about 14 feet long and about 6 feet wide so you can do the math on the line length.

You probalby don't need to replace any of the bearings in the diff and no bolt on the planet should ever be torqued to yield.

I re-read the new version of the GCR (section 9.4) and the previous rule that allowed a main hoop or other element to not meet the rules if it was the next size larger in material requirements is gone. My recommendation above regarding next sized main hoop tubing no longer applies. All roll cage elements have to meet the SCCA spec to be stamped and allowed to run at a SCCA Club Race.

http://sliderulemuseum.com

Since we don't know your location its kind of a crapshoot for a referral. All the recommendations above are good ones. In addition you can try Greg Ira in Florida who's UID here is gira.

Your car is not an open top car so that rule does not apply. You don't need to run a roll bar at all to compete in NASA TT. But, it really depends on your attitude and the attitude of the tech inspector when you show up at the event. For SCCA Solo competition here's the pertinent section of Appendix C: The size of tubing to be used shall be determined on the basis of the weight and speed potential of the car. The following minimum sizes are required required and are based upon the weight of the car without the driver. a) Over 1500 lbs.-min. of 1-1/2" o.d. x .120" wall or 1-3/4" o.d. x .095" wall Over 1000 lbs.-min. of 1-1/4" o.d. x .090" wall c) Under 1000 lbs.-min. of 1" o.d. x .060" wall Dimensions are nominal. 0.005” variation in wall thickness is allowed. In practice at NASA events they accept roll bars built to SCCA Solo specs.

Sorry, I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but it won't pass SCCA or NASA tech because of the missing diagonal unless the main hoop tubing wall thickness is .120" instead of .095". Hopefully Mark upgraded the main hoop wall thickness. Although its a matter of opinion, I'm also of thought that the main hoop rear braces should not extend past the rear strut towers. That rear crush zone is important and directly imparting rear impact loads into the roll bar increases the loads on the driver. For an open track, lapping car the cage is probably fine. If you ever go to sell the car and you want to expand your market to the wheel-to-wheel guys, you should make the changes listed above.

The SCCA Solo1 and Solo2 rules regarding safety items are at least a generation behind the SCCA's GCR. The weight difference in a roll bar from 1.5" x .120" wall and .095" wall is not that significant. IMHO, a roll bar made from the thicker stuff will pass a quick HPDE/Solo check and won't impede your performance much (if at all). Also, keep in mind that roll bars are not stamped with a serial number so if anyone asks just say its been in the car since 1995.

No need to. We've all been there. Anyone remember Boom Tubes and Axle lights? Guilty.

Every once in a while it gets entertaining - Tony does one of his classic beat downs: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/2086047/page=1

No real updates except my machinist said he's working on them today and will go to the broacher/gear cutter on Monday.

Here are my suggestions and this is exactly what I did when I decided I wanted to work on S30s: 1. Get a place to work on the car where you can leave it in various stages of disrepair without worrying the neighbors. 2. Shop Goodwill and pawn shops for tools. Buy a factory service manual for your car. 3. Buy your first Z with the idea that's its a training project and you're going to scrap it anyway after you've done some work on it. That way you have no fear of screwing it up and are willing to take chances and make mistakes. 4. Strip that first car and carefully bag and mark all the parts you remove. Buy a camera and take lots of pictures. 5. Cut out body patches and whole panels and then weld them back in so you can learn how to weld sheet metal. 6. Clean and reassemble various parts of the car (carbs, cylinder head, steering column switches, transmission, struts, etc.). When you've spent a year on this car, sell it or scrap it, saving the good parts. Now you know enough to find the right Z to start your hybrid swap.

Holy crap! That's one sentence. How is anyone supposed to understand that? Read the rules please:

This post has nothing to do with the L6 so I'm moving it.

He needs smacking in the side of the helmet. Funny as hell though.

There is 304L tubing which I've used on the past for thin wall stainless exhaust (.035"). The extra carbon reduction helped. You don't need it for what you're doing and the merge collector example above is what I was describing (minus the cone transition from 3" to 2.5" in the pictured item).

I would avoid the expense of food grade stainless. It is more difficult to weld properly (tends to have a higher carbon content) and is generally thicker then what you need. .049" wall is plenty for what you're planning. You can have the exhaust system polished after its built which will give as nice a look as the already polished food grade material. Be careful with the Y pipe design because a poorly done one will create a high pressure spot in the exhaust. A 2.5" inlet with a narrow merge (7 or 14 degree) out to 2.25" outlets will probably work best. Bends on the exhaust tend to quiet things down a bit by they also create high presusre areas. Use V-band clamps for all your junctions. Use a backpurge or a flux on all the TIG welds.

Aluminum is fine but I would use 7075 or 2024 instead of 6061.

Pop culture references.

Considering you're spending $132K on the GT3RS you would probably be better off starting with the Nissan GT-R to get to the level of the Porsche.