johnc

I ran 275 ft. lbs. through my two R180s that had Quaife LSDs on my road race 240Z.

I can't comment on the roll bar installation or type (bolt-in or welded) without looking at the car. From the pictures it appears that how the car hit the roof is a one-in-a-million shot as Josh alluded to in a previous post. In a roll over the car normally rolls onto the roof and doesn't just flop down square. That most likely contributed a lot to the roll bar failure. For that kind of hit the bar would have been better tied to the floor pan and the rocker panel to spread the load. But, again, that's a one-in-a-million type of roof hit and maybe that wouldn't have been enough.

No, I'm just snippy sometimes. I am not an expert on exhaust systems. I've learned a little through monkey-see monkey-do but I still make mistakes. A few weeks ago I built an exhaust for a BMW M3 running in STU and we lost horsepower on the dyno. After some more work on my part (the secondary tubes off the 6 into 2 header were 2" too short) we got it all back but didn't see any gains. Swapping out one 90 degree bend for two 45 degree bends and being really creative with the undercar "packaging" and we got some good gains on the dyno. I made two mistakes on this exhaust and it took a 15 minute call to Kinetic to clear up the issues for me. The above is why I'm reluctant to delve into this subject on an Internet message board.

Yeah, those are something I made for myself years ago to use the Nissan pickup R180 in my car and then a few other folks asked if I could make up a set for them.

Holy ♥♥♥♥! You're right. They did have a roll bar in the car and it punched through the floor.

The new Car FX company motto: "Look Better, Go Faster, Die." This is a great quote: Another "race prep" shop to cross off you're list. They didn't even put a roll bar in their "track" car.

What would I do with all the 36 grit I just bought?

If you go back to the first post in this thread: And the $500 is still a guestimate.

Nope. I don't want to be responsible for a used diff as part of a product I'm selling.

OK, this is pretty broad and really only specific to the engine I had in my car, but here goes: With the 6 - 2- 1 header its possible to tune its two torque peaks (not really peaks, just high points I guess) to span some band of rpm. The area between the peaks remains relatively flat so the torque curve may not be as high as with an optimally designed 6 - 1 header but you can end up with a broader torque curve and possibly more area under the curve. It takes a lot of dyno time (15 hours in my engine's case) and involved a lot of work in other areas of the engine but it can be done. Notice all the vagueness with words like "can", "possible", "possibly", "may", etc. Without testing you'll never really know what you've achieved.

There's so much mis-information on the Internet and in people's "common sense" regarding internal combustion engine exhaust that attempts at explanation on an Internet message board are futile. It just turns into "my friend who has xxx made yyy horsepower with a zzz header so that means all headers made by zzz are the best." Exhaust tuning is very, very vehicle and engine specific and extrapolating what worked on my 325hp, 14 to 1 CR, 310 duration cammed L6 engine to whatever you have in your car is a waste of everyone's time. You, yourself need to find the books and do the reading to come to a conclusion that's appropriate for your car.

That's not the pricing, that's just a guess. The axles are broached and now they are on the way to carburizing.

Just park your Z out in a hailstorm.

Drag your feet.

Use it often and its nice to work with.

http://www.baddogparts.com/

No. You're assuming the optimum is to have an individual pipe/exhaust for each cylinder. That's only (in rare cases) true for forced induction engines. For normally aspirated engines there are huge benefits to wave tuning using multiple cylinders to work with each other. No. Yes.

My guess: Flywheel and/or clutch surface were contaminated with something which later led to hot spots and pitting. It might have been the degreaser you used (was it water based?) Buy a new friction surface and clutch and use Acetone or Brake Clean to clean the flywheel. Wipe off any residue before assembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jsvknc4HzGc

Todd's one of the smart Datsun guys although he sucks as a web developer...

Peterson 600.

Naaah. You've proven that you and the car can do it so now you can just fall back on: 1. Tires are old. 2. Its hot today. 3. Its cold today. 4. Its not warm enough today. 5. its not cool enough today. 6. Too windy. 7. Didn't get a clear track. 8. Someone laid down some oil. 9. Didn't have time to bed the pads. 10. I'm just bedding in pads/heat cycling tires. 11. Rain washed out the rubber laid down on the track. 12. I'm just testing today. 13. I don't drive fast with passengers in the car. Congrats on the great times.