johnc

Maybe so, maybe not. The loads into the chassis are different for the two sports so the types of chassis flex are different. Road Racing Pulling 1.2gs in a corner means the outside suspension is seeing 3,000lbs of lateral load at the outside suspension LCAs and 2,500 lbs vertical at the outside strut towers. In addition you have typical acceleration loads of 1323 ft. lbs (200 ft. lbs. x 1.61 third gear x 4.11 axle ratio) into the driveline. Drag Racing Launching a powerful drag car puts 6006 ft. lbs of torque through the tires into the driveline (500 ft. lbs. x 3.08 first gear x 3.90axle ratio) plus 2,500lbs vertical at the two rear strut towers. The road racing chassis sees large lateral laods and small driveline loads. The drag racing chasssis sees large driveline loads and small (hopefully!) lateral loads. I think the main difference is that drag racing imparts large shock loads.

Love 'em on race cars and hate 'em on street cars. In a 240Z race car they need to be pushed as far forward as possible and you should mount them pretty low.

One more problem... you'll need ABS software calibrated for a 2,500 lb car with a 51/49 weight distribution.

Also, do one floor pan at a time. Don't cut both out because the chassis can sag or spread a little bit, especially if the rocker panles are rusty.

BTW... a wider front track is one way to get a Quaife diff to work well.

Unfortunately, as a leasee in light industrial complex, even if I found a problem at the main panel, the landlord won't do squat until something actually happens. Since I've been here (4 years) this problem has happened to 3 other tennants. All of our suggestions about preventative maintenance fall on deaf ears when the park is bought and sold between three of the same Birtcher "investment partnerships" (doctors and lawyers with money and no clue) every two years.

Track width is a prime component in lateral load transfer, chassis roll, and also, to a small degree, affects roll center. Track width changes via wheel spacers is a common way to move load transfer to the front or rear without resorting to bigger ARBs. Asymetric track widths (wider front) also reduce diagonal load transfer and help power application from the inside rear wheel.

Only when that knowledge is used for action. Knowledge not acted upon is just clutter that gets spewed onto internet message boards.

I've been using my Precision TIG 275 for a ferw months now and I wasn't happy with its performance when the amps were turned up on AC welding big aluminum. I'd have the setting on, say 225, and with my foot to the floor I would only get about 185 amps. Plus I would see the power sag a bit while running long beads and occaisionally the 85 amp breaker would trip, shutting the machine off and smoking a tungsten. A couple weeks ago, while welding a bunch of aluminum, half the shop lost power completely and nothing powered by 220 would work. I checked the panel in my shop and one of the three phase leads was only delviering 8V, instead of the 120V the other two showed. I traced it back to the main power supply for the building and found a completely melted lead going to my meter: This complex was built in 1976 when aluminum wiring was allowed. Over time, through galvanic action, where the aluminum wire connects to brass, steel, or copper connections, corrosion develops and the resistance increases. The landlords replaced the failed wire with a new copper one and cleaned all the other aluminum wire connections. Now my TIG welder delivers all the amps I ask of it.

I've charged people from $1,250 to $1,750 to do this job so $2,000 is not out of line, especially if the body shop includes stripping the interrior, cleaning, prepping, repairing, and painting after. You're trading time for money by having someone else do the work. If you don't have much money, you should spend your time doing the work yourself. If you don't have much money or time, sell the car and buy a used Civic.

Both floor pans and floor supports need to be replaced. $1,750.00 The car is missing the right fender. $500.00 The right side frame rail is rusted from front to back. $750.00 In addition you'll probably have to replace: Both rocker panels and the underlying support panels. $1,500.00 Battery tray. $500.00 Rear hatch striker. $250.00 Figure $5,250.00 to make the car structurally sound. As a point of reference, I just sold a structurally sound 1971 series 1 240Z with a completely rebuilt suspension, new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and new wheels and tires for $6,500.00.

Finally had some money to send. Hang some fuzzy dice on the rear view mirror and see if that increases drag...

The clevis' need to be straight out from the master cylinders so the pushrods get a nice, straight push. The clevis' can be close to the monoball mounting tube as long as they don't contact it during braking. The biasing action comes from moving the monoball pivot side-to-side within its mounting tube.

I don't know.

BTW... You've all been accused of criminal activity. Hide the money!

Its back: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=315382&t=315382

FYI... both SCCA and NASA will require 6 point seat belt mounting at some point in the near future. They already require them for open cockpit cars. If you're buying a new harness system, get a 6 point. Also, check the dates on the harnesses you buy and return anything that's over 3 months old. SCCA and NASA require harness replacement after 5 years and they are making noises about requiring replacement after 3.