johnc

Now you'r really going to work you butt off! Have a great time.

All the information you need is on this site. Take the next month or two and search, read, lurk, etc. Also, please use proper grammer.

The adjusters might be frozen. Get a shop manual and look at the procedures for checking the rear drum brake adjusting mechanism.

OS Giken (sp?) made a twin cam DOHC head for the L6. Hard to find and very expensive. Search this site using DOHC and L6 and you'll find some information about it.

Its only $88.24 per horsepower.

And that's why large truck manufacturers are switching to disks? Drum brakes are generally cheaper to manufactur then disks - that's the main reason they are still used on lower priced cars and trucks.

Borla XR-1 Raceline... its not a cheapie Borla. http://www.borla.com/products/xr-1_racing_exhaust.aspx

Well, it depends. Some thing like this on a 2.8L E36 BMW increased mid-range torque, flattened the overall torque curve, and increaded top end horsepower in conjuntion with a 3" exhaust.

Borla XR-1 Raceline.

IMHO... No concensus. Do like Jon M and make your inner pickup points adjustable vertically. Then you can adjust them to your liking and driving style and also adjust bumpsteer. Personally I don't see all the fuss about raising or lowering the TC rod mounting point. Again, you can add some adjustability and see what works for you. I am pretty emphatic (based on my own experiments) about not shortening the length of the TC or the distance between the TC rod pivot and the LCA. Lengthening the LCAs is always a good thing in a strut suspension. Positive caster is your friend. Just make sure you don't induce bind or friction. Monoballs and rods ends help a lot in this area. Moving the upper strut mounting point is a way of gaining caster without increasing friction.

That was my suggestion regarding the square tube going through the passenger floor to the rockers. The mount itself would either span the existing mounts in the tunnel or use the trans itself as a structural part. Additionally the brace to the rockers helps a little bit in a side imapact. When you remove the hood latch you create a nice flat place for triangulated strut tower bars...

I boxed the existing mounts on the crossmember and then machined a chunk of 2024 aluminum that angled back from the top of the stock mount and was the 1" thinner then the OEM rubber mounts. Don't go overboard making heavy duty engine mounts because the trans mount also takes the load. With the power my L6 made I never had any issues with the engine mounts I made. Engine was set back as far as possible while still allowing head removal with ARP studs. You may also was to retain the trans mount ears in the chassis and rethink the actual mount on the transmission. I have a plate that was held in place by the bolts holding the tailshaft to the transmission, similar to an engine plate. Just reinforce the trans mounting in the chassis by runing some 1.5" square tube across the chassis in the passenger compartment connecting the trans mount to the rocker panel. You'll also need to "clearance" the front right of the driver's foot well to make room for your header. I cut the corner off and welded in some sheet metal.

Pulling spindle pins is a right-of-passage in the 240Z world. Its your final step in becoming a "Datsun Man." You need to pray to the God's of corrosion and ask them to be kind to you. You need to purchase amulets and offerings in the form of Liquid Wrench, WD40, Mopar Rust Penetrant, and others. You need ceremonial tools like hammers, air hammers, hydraulic presses, pullers, drill bits, screw drivers, combination wrenches, and others. And most importantly, you need to chant the sacred spindle pin pulling words. The list is here: http://www.erenkrantz.com/Humor/SevenDirtyWords.shtml

We can't "calculate" the horsepower loss number for you. You haven't even specified what diameter exhaust tubing you're thinking about and it really appears that you want us to help justify not spending the money on a mandrel bent system. That's something we can't do either. My suggestion: get the crush bent exhaust system because the money saved can be spent on other things your car probably needs. Later, if you come into more money, then upgrade the exhaust.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel." "How is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain. Remember when I took that home winemaking course, and I forgot how to drive?" "Here's to alcohol, the cause of—and solution to—all life's problems." "If The Flintstones has taught us anything, it's that pelicans can be used to mix cement." "I'm not a bad guy! I work hard, and I love my kids. So why should I spend half my Sunday hearing about how I'm going to Hell?" Homer: Are you saying you're never going to eat any animal again? What about bacon? Lisa: No. Homer: Ham? Lisa: No. Homer: Pork chops? Lisa: Dad, those all come from the same animal. Homer: Heh heh heh. Ooh, yeah, right, Lisa. A wonderful, magical animal.

Homer Simpson - Doh!

Apply it to the inside of the tube and you should be able to get to it easily because you are welding two tubes together. You don't need flux on the outside where you are welding because the sheilding gas takes care of protecting the weld. I use alcohol per the manufacturer's recommendation and haven't had a flaking off problem. I also apply a fairly thin layer and because I'm welding thin wall material I don't put a lot of heat into the joint.

For stainless exhaust tubing, especially 3" tubing, its impractical to back purge. I used a product called Solar Flux to coat the inside of the weld seam and prevent sugaring. Burns Stainless sells a 1lb can of it for $40, which is expensive but it will last for a couple years.

Congratualtions!

Dan's looked at the logs and the database and can't see what might be causing this. He's looking at other things now.

About 3 weeks lead time from when Stan gets the order. Sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. It also depends on how many hoods are in the queue. I only have one mold.

That's just got to be some nasty s*&^! MEK scares me enough as it is, add some Peroxide and you can use to to go to the moon.

That's what I though too, but its not quite right. A properly designed splitter works by channeling and accelerating air underneath the car into a front diffuser. A properly designed splitter actually points up at about a 2 or 3 degree angle to accerate and compress the air under the front of the car before the air enters the front diffuser. Its counter-intuitive and took me a while to understand, but a splitter by itself is just a fancy spoiler/air dam. Adding a diffuser at the front wheel centerline makes a splitter really work. Even without a front diffuser, a splitter in conjunction with a flat undercar works by extending the length of the low pressure area under the car. http://www.mulsannescorner.com/audir8nose.htm

Sorry, Tony's generous offer won't work for my stuff. I have nothing in stock right now and the molds are full. A 240Z hood and hatch along with a 280ZX hood are being made as I type, but they are already spoken for.