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johnc

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Everything posted by johnc

  1. I don't know where people get $2,000 for the price of a Quaife untit for an R180. $1,200 max and I bet I can get 'em for under $1,000. As far as it being the "best" unit, you'll need to define for what use. It is the best as far as warranty - lifetime and that includes racing and it should never need servicing or rebuilding like a clutch pack (Nismo) unit.
  2. Unless you're measuring air temps with an inch or two of the headers, I doubt you'll see underhood temps over 300F. I was part of a measuring effort underhood of a 2001 Ford Contour SVT. The worst case we saw was 100F over ambient (on a 85 degree day) while letting the car idle for 5 minutes. Once moving at 20mph or more the underhood temps stayed within 10F of outside ambient air.
  3. Ice cream truck with a blown Donovan Hemi. Saw one a few years ago complete with working freezers and stocked with snow cones, bomb pops, etc.
  4. Machine Tool: A penis on a Robot?
  5. Another good thing to check when these symptoms occur is the negative cable from the battery and any chassis grounds.
  6. McMaster-Carr part number 4141k11 ( http://www.mcmaster.com ) $24.27 each. That would be a tough one to measure...
  7. I section the struts to 12.938" in front and 14.938" rear for the Koni 8610s so it looks like your struts are about the stock length.
  8. Modern Motorsports wheel adapters are safe.
  9. Lanzini Body Works http://www.lanzinibodyworks.com Tell Mitch I sent you and if he says he's too busy, let me know and I'll call him. EDIT: Harry, I didn't realize that you were you. Is Mitch the one that claims to be backlogged 6 months?
  10. Search this site and you'll see that others have tried this before with no success. The head is also not really necessary to get lots of horsepower out of the L6.
  11. Perfect. You're building a hot rod and that's great. Machined aluminum control arms, moustache bars, and other suspension parts fit that look. I suggest you stick with polyurethane bushings over Delrin. Delrin wears fairly quickly so you'll have to replace them priodically (every couple years depending on miles driven). Poly will give you much better NVH characteristics and you won't notice a handling difference between them and Delrin.
  12. When sectioning struts you've got two welds to do: 1) to connect the two separate tubes back together and 2), to attach the new lower spring perch. As Jon said above it really doesn't matter where you put them from a structural perspective, assuming you're a competent welder. When I offer welding advice on this forum I'm assuming I'm talking with incompetent welders.
  13. If you want real racing rims, go to: http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/.
  14. Metal to metal is a good thing for handling and a bad thing for NVH. Dave's (Arizona Z) parts are race parts so he designed them for metal to metal (actually aluminum and delrin I think). You're sacrificing ride for handling and perofmance. As Jon mentioned above, are you building the car for show, performance, or some combination of the above? The reason I'm asking is that the "billet" term is commonly used in the hot rod world where show is more important then go. FYI... I'm not trying to be derogatory, just trying to find out what your goals are.
  15. Once the old spring perch is off, ignore where it was previously located. I try to put the cut right where I'm going to run the bead when the new spring perch is installed. Better to have only one heat affected zone on the the strut.
  16. Modern Motorsports. Arizona Z Car. Williams Machine. Juan. Spend some time searching this site and you'll find a number of resources for your custom billet parts. BTW... there isn't an "A" arm anywhere on a 240Z.
  17. A Kiddie rechargeable 5 lb chemical fire extinguisher is $20 at Lowes or Home Depot. Everyone reading this thread should buy one today on the way home from work and mount it in their garage, if they haven't already done so. The local firemen who inspect my shop tell me that if you can't get the fire out with one 5 lb extinguisher - run and call 911. You've got a real fire on your hands and you need help.
  18. http://www.se-r-list.org/ I was on this mailing list back when I was racing an Infinity G20 in the 1990s and it was equal to HybridZ in the quality of members and postings. Haven't been there in a long time so I don't know what changes may have occurred.
  19. If you're doing a lot of welding in one session it comes in handy. Don't over do it and weld for a bit on scrap material right after dipping or spraying the tip.
  20. You can use SS tubing or braided steel for fuel lines.
  21. No. You need hard lines throughout the chassis and you can use SS tubing for this. Braided steel lines throughout the car would flex too much and braking would be unpredictable.
  22. You'll need to get the rule book for the sanctioning body you intend to race with. I repeat. You'll need to get the rule book for the sanctioning body you intend to race with.
  23. I was all scared to weld 4130 because of what I had read in the trade mags about it. But when I took the Motorsports Welding class at Lincoln Electric they said the trade mags are all concerned with welding 1/2 plate. For our uses 4130 isn't a big deal. You can screw it up with bad technique (like anything), but if you've been MIG or TIG welding for a year or two your technique should be fine. FYI... Lincoln is working with NASCAR and Tony Gibbs Racing to develop a certification for welding 4130 and DOM tubing. While I was at the Lincoln Motorsports school they asked a few of use to stay late one evening and TIG weld a bunch of 1.5" .095 wall 4130 round tubing joints. I ended up welding 50 - 90 and 45 degree joints. A few months ago I got a certificate in the mail from Lincoln saying I'm certified to weld 4130 steel tubing. They put all the welded joints in a fixture that pulled and bent the things to failure and all of mine passed. They still don't have the NASCAR wedling certification process done yet.
  24. Well... this is HybridZ. We can offer our opinions about someone's ideas but we don't criticize them. If drftn280zx2+2 wants to build an all aluminum L28 and is really going to make the effort - more power to him and we'll cheer the effort along. On the other hand, if drftn280zx2+2 is just "talking", then the discussion is really a waste of time.
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