johnc

Poifict.

Unfortunately you can't say that with such certainty without knowing the yield limit of the steel part being tested. If 37,500psi is below the yield limit of the part being tested then the test could go on forever, barring any stress risers. If that's true, then the bar being stressed at 37,500psi will last just as long as the bar being stressed at 5,500psi.

I strongly suggest that you only purchase racing seats that meet or exceed the 24g 8855-1999 FIA homologation standards. All seats meeting that standard have a certificate attached. Look for it. For your budget, I would recommend: http://www.subesports.com/products/?cartID=20040818174345209.178.166.65&cat=Seating&brand=Cobra&prodID=665 Regarding a roll cage, if you builder is looking for a blueprint, good luck finding one. The dimensions and designs I've come up with or figured out are not available to a competitor and I'm sure that's true for almost any fabricator who spends time on this stuff. Also, make sure your builder is experienced building roll cages for road racing use. Look for a copy (no more then two years old) of SCCA's Club Racing General Competition Rules & Specifications in his office or on a bookshelf. If you don't see one, ask him how he is going to build a legal cage to that almost universal rule set. BTW... the SCCA GCR pretty much specifies the basic design of the cage.

This is the definitive thread on this topic with seprate dyno tests witnessed by me on the west coast and Keith Thomas (katman) on the east coast. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14107&highlight=n36

Not sure why you're having problems. Tire Rack has all of these great tires in stock in 225/50-15 size: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD (Max Performance Summer) Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position (Max Performance Summer) Dunlop SP Sport 9000 (Max Performance Summer) Dunlop SP Sport 8000 (Ultra High Performance Summer) Yokohama A022A (Ultra High Performance Summer) Yokohama AVS ES100 (Ultra High Performance Summer) Kumho Ecsta V700 (Competition) Kumho VictoRacer V700 (Competition) Michelin Pilot Sport Cup (Competition) Yokohama A032R (Competition) Kumho ECSTA 711 (High Performance Summer) Sumitomo HTR 200 (High Performance Summer) There's more in size 225/45-15 and more again in sizes 215/55-15, 215/50-15, 205/55-15, and 205/50-15.

A 225/45-16 tire will give you a 23.9" tall tire. Probably a good compromise size and I think it will fit.

Tires - plural. At a minimum 2 tires are taking this load. The load path into the strut towers is 99% vertical; they are not designed to handle significant lateral loads. The lateral loads come into the chassis throught the lower control arms. The rear strut towers distort from the vertical loads imposed so we would have to calculate the amount and direction of distortion to determine the loads placed on the strut tower bars. The largest inputs into the strut towers are bumps where the suspension bottoms out. Good examples hard cornering on a bumpy track, FIA curb hopping, and wheel hop on hard acceleration or hard braking. A corresponding street driving example would be potholes, of which I've been told New Jersey is the mother load of such things...

Never mind, I was confused by the pictures. I thought that the air going through the diffuser was exiting through the mesh.

The context for this thread: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=36316

They've sold those for a little while down here in SoCal. I bet Forrest Lawn and Rose Hills are crapping in their pants (or rolling in their graves) right now. BTW... I do welding for Rose Hills - I call it "Welding for Dead People." And I saw a bumper sticker on one of their service vehicles that said, "Let's put the FUN back in FUNERAL."

I'm sure there's not much I can do from California, but if any of you guys needs something, let me know.

Wow! I'm printing this and giving it to my girlfriend the next time I piss her off. Thanks!

A first shot at writing a history of the "War on Terror" written by Norman Podhoretz. There's a political slant (Podhoretz is sometimes called the "Father of Neoconservatism") but its a good first stab at writing a history of what may be later called WW4. As with any attempt at writing history while its still being played out, this article may look pretty naive 10 years from now, but its gives a lot of context for the current situation. http://www.commentarymagazine.com/podhoretz.htm

http://www.freemuslims.org/

I wouldn't. I'm an NA guy. Turbos are for lazy engine builders... http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/rod4sale.html

Actually, there's a "John C" on this board (been here longer then me) and then there's me, "johnc". As "Jon M" posted, there's a bit about me at http://www.betamotorsports.com. I'm a welder/fabricator and I resell CF and Glass 240Z hoods and hatches.

260Newb, A word of advice: Spend the next couple months searching this site and reading hundreds of threads. Also, buy some of the books recommended on other Z related sites and read them. This will save you time and us irritation answering questions that have been answered hundreds of times already. There's no one way to build the engine you want and asking us to give you "the" answer will only create confusion. Do a lot of research on your own and come to your own conclusion on your engine build. You might also want to talk with the known Nissan engine builders like Sunbelt Performance, Rebello Racing, Malvern Racing, Caldwell, etc. I'm not trying to dampen your enthusiasm, I'm just trying to give you some advice so that you don't wear out your welcome here or at the other Z sites. Some of us old timers are grumpy SOBs.

A typical adjustable anti-roll bar with a blade end runs $1,100 to $1,300. On any Z, other then a pure track car running in a GT class, its bling. I couldn't even justify the cost of one on the ROD and I had $63K in that 240Z.

Building a "box" for the main hoop legs is a good way to make the loads go into the main hoop in a more direct fasHion. Long angle cuts on the bottom legs of the main hoop sometimes cause the shearing failures that NASCAR has seen in the last few years. When you build a "box" for the legs of the main hoop to rest on, one of the big concerns is punch through if the car goes over. The sides of the box can punch through the floor pan, the main hoop legs can punch through the top of the box, or the top of the box can punch down between the sides of the box. So, when building a "box" you need to make it out of thicker materials then the mandated mounting plate minimum of .080". .120" wall box sides with a .187" thick top plate is a good choice. The size of the top plate also needs to kept as small as possible and the "box" itself needs to be built as low as possible in the chassis.

It looks good but, as always, I do have a couple suggestions: 1. A couple verticals between the door bars will give them some more strength. 2. I'm not sure who you're goign to race with in Norway, but here in the US (with SCCA) you'll need a diagonal brace in the main hoop on the same plane as the main hoop itself. My roll bar has the exact same X brace on the rear supports and that was legal up until about 2000. Now SCCA requires the main hoop diagonal. 3. The lateral bar going from the bottom legs of the main hoop should be welded to a plate on the trans tunnel. It appears that the bar is welded to the tunnel on its side. At a minumum ask to have some gussets added so it doesn't pop loose in a side impact. Just some suggestions for improvement, the cage is fine as is.

Some of it might also be the lack of a real flywheel, the Quartermaster 5.5" double disk clutch, and the 35lb crankshaft.

Exactly. Idle rpm constantly varies from 1,800 to 2,100 because cylinders only get a good mixture every other or every third firing. Sometimes its only idling on three cylinders for a few seconds. Its a "special" cam...

I would not recommend my Sunbelt cam for a street engine. Idle is 1,800 to 2,000 rpm and there's no power below 4,000 rpm.

As said above, your threaded collars are mounted too low. You went from a stiff 12" tall spring to a softer 10" tall spring. The welded ring that the threaded collar sits on is at elast 2" too low for the new springs you've installed.

And my 1977 Datsun 810 with a L24E does not exhibit this behavior. But, reading the FSM again, a vacum should be created in the crankcase at idle by a properly operating PCV valve, so that valve is open at idle. If some other aspect of idle (mixture, speed, timing) is off then I can see how pulling the oil cap will cause the problems described in the first post.