johnc

Narrow is a better word.

As my friend the Civil Engineer says, "Any Wanker with unlimited time and budget can build a bridge but it takes a real engineer to build a bridge with no time and no budget." Thinking along those lines, I have much more respect for the designer of the original VW Bug then I do for the designer of the Ferrari Enzo. I think that's what Pete's trying to say.

Valid Opinion is an oxymoron...

Go here: http://www.mulsannescorner.com/ Basically what you're trying to accomplish with a splitter, belly pans, and/or a diffuser is to accelerate the air under the car and creat a low pressure area.

The term "heel and toe" dates back to the days when race cars had the throttle pedal in the center and the brake pedal on the right.

Just don't get the "Jim Sauce" on your burger.

The car is Amir's (Demon on this site) and he's thrashing hard to get it ready for Sunday's MSA show. He ran it on a Dynotjet a few weeks ago and got some pretty impressive numbers.

I just spent two weeks doing very a intensive diagnosis and modification of the L6 cooling system. One day I'll do a writeup of what I learned regarding cooling a high horsepower L6. Until then, run 10 to 20% of any kind of coolant, Water Wetter is a waste of $7, purge all the air from the block and head when filling, and leave room in the radiator tank so that you can separate the steam from the water.

The stock steel fuel lines are about the same size as -6 and are good for about 450 horsepower. Once you start getting above that I would go with -8 braided lines.

I'll have my Z at the MSA show, depending on how much I can get done fixing and cleaning it up today.

I don't understand why you would use the stock crossmember motor mounts when installing an SR20DET. You to want make and weld mounts to the frame rails in the area the TC rod bolts up and get the engine way back AND down. Pictures here at bottom of page: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/miscimages.html

A long time ago in an engine shop far, far, away, there were... Dyno Tests! Some (maybe only one) engine builders discovered that for a particular head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust combination on a race engine that the N36 intake manifold produced a small increase in measurable horsepower at some rpm number. Since those secretive dark days, the myth has grown to include all head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust combinations and a specific horsepower number has been added to the myth. Suprisingly, other engine builders back in those dark, secretive days discovered that for their particular head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust combination the E88 intake manifolds produces a little bit more horsepower at some rpm number. And even more suprising, some engine builders discovered that for their particular head/piston/intake/SU/header/exhaust either intake manifold (and a few others) had no affect on measured horsepower. Moral of the story: there's no magic bullet.

The myth surfaces again...

Lots of pictures of my latest preparation efforts at: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html go to "Open Trach Challenge 2004" and then "Preparation."

4,000 to 7,500 and that's with a Motec M48 EMS, a 65mm TB, and a custom intake manifold.

Although I buy in small quantities, I've seen my cost for steel go up 75% so far this year. Its almost impossible for me to find 4130 sheet anymore. http://asia.news.yahoo.com/040410/ap/d81rpt1g0.html Expect to the the cost of anything made from steel to go up in price over the course of this year.

Sometimes its just better not knowing...

For some reason I feel like I'm listening in to someone's phone call. Is the post above directed at TJCANNON or are you asking us to answer those questions?

If $7K is your entire budget for the car, engine, interior, exterior, driveline, wheels, tires, etc. then you had better shop very carefully for a clean, rust free chassis. That, by itself, will cost you at least $2.5K. Wheels and tires will add another $1K. Getting the suspension and brakes back into a good stock condition will cost you another $1K. Cleaning up the interior and exterior will cost another $.5K. That leaves you $2,000 to spend on engine, trans, diff, driveshaft, and halfshafts.

What shade lens are you using in the helmet? It sounds counter intuitive, but to see better, use a darker shade lens. I suggest you start with an 11 and see how that works.

So why doesn't Ted Kennedy or our media understand this? http://www.themoscowtimes.com/stories/2004/04/13/009.html

With 14 bolts spread over such a small area, you don't need high torque numbers. Use the factory specs.

The shielding gas is there to do just that, shield the weld pool from active gasses (oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen) that cause embrittlement. The flux in your flux core wire is supposed to do the same, but its a less effective method. Impurities have to be cleaned from the parts before welding. A shielding gas gives better control over heat input into the weld, makes the weld pool more visible, and allows you to run less voltage for the same penetration. There are also better filler wires for welding sheet metal. ER70S-6, "EasyGrind", etc. work better then flux core wire. Try what Tim mentions above if you stay with the flux core welder.

Breaking a TC rod is not the "Oh My God!" event some folks make it out to be. Remember, there's a lower control arm, strut, and anti-roll bar all still connected. You'll feel a vagueness in the steering especially under braking and a loss of some directionl stability. But, the car's not going to explode, fly off the road into a ditch, or roll.

http://www.frieghtquote.com 600 lbs class 85.