johnc

I'm not comfortable selling my engine and trans mounts as a kit. The engine mounts need to be welded to the frame rails and I just can't be assured that someone will do it right.

That what I've run on my 240Z with the Outlaw 2800 calipers. Work great for time trials where I run 5 to 8 laps each session at most. Not a good endurace pad. Hawk Blues are overkill for an OT day. Porterfield R4 pads and Ferodo Green Stuff rear shoes are a good combination for OT days. As said above, be prepared to bleed the brakes and adjust the rear drums a couple times during the day.

The classic example is a friend of mine who bought one of the first EVO8s sold here in the States. With less then 700 miles on the car he purchased the first flash a well known tuner developed for the car's ECU. 6th lap at the track - smoke and oil everywhere. Quickly flash the ECU back to stock and get the car repaired under warranty. Car's back together. The same well known tuner flashes the ECU again with a more "conservative" boost plan (max boost same as stock, but full in 1,500 rpm earlier). Car makes it 15 laps before smoke and oil everywhere. Quickly flash the ECU back to stock and get the car repaired under warranty but dealer is on to the scam. Warranty denied - $9,000 engine replacement bill looming. The word "Tuner" is becoming synonymous with "Idiot."

What's most important is to get the preload correct. The FSM lists the following as the instructions for reassembly: ... 2. Relationship between the rear bearing housing and distance piece is shown in figure RA-24. 2a. Mark A, B or C is stamped on the top of the housing. Select a distance peice (we call it a spacer) having a mark coincided with the mark ont he housing. 2b. When a distance piece is resused, make sure that both end s are not collapsed or deformed. (Sometimes a copper washer is added by a mechanic if the spacer is deformed). 4. Tighten the wheel bearing lock nut and measure the preload and rear axle shaft end play. Adjust as required. 4a. Wheel bearing preload: 4.9 kg cm (3.9 in. lb) Rear axle shaft end play: 0 to 0.15mm (0 to .0057 in.) Wheel bearing locknut torque: 25 to 33kg-m (181 to 239 ft. lb.)

When my thrust bearing failed and let the crank walk to the point of destruction there was no real indication of a problem. The engine was running fine and the only reason I tore it down was a loss of comrpession in #s 2 and 5. Again, this was a race engine with 25,000 race miles on it. If you're careful with your clutch foot and the loads you place on the engine, you should be fine. If there's any damage its probably already been done and there's nothing you can do about it now. Then again, maybe everything's OK. The only way to know is to tear down the motor and it sounds like you're not in a position right now to do that.

JaYaYsSoHN , Please read this: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=24343. Thanks.

After watching EVOs blow up left and right at OTC, hearing Supra explosion stories from Amir, and then reading some of the latest posts in this section - what's up with you Turbo guys ignoring basic combustion theory when building (or tuning) these engines? Ya think a Turbo is some magic device that allows ya'll to ignore the basic facts of detonation, preignition, and lean?

There's only one way to determine if you have a LSD. Take off the rear cover and look inside. Spinning the wheels DOES NOT WORK despite all the posts that people will make to the contrary. I can weld up an open diff, fill the case with 140wt and sawdust, or do any number of other things to make the "spinning the wheels" myth fail. BTW... The odds are 90% that you do not have a LSD in your R180.

http://www.performancefriction.com/

I think you have that backwards. The pressure plate exerts force on the crankshaft with the clutch transmitting torque to the trans input shaft. 1mm (.0394") of end play is not good. The thrust bearing is going fast and you'll be looking at replacing the crank very soon. Been there, done that.

What is the intended usage of said vehicle?

Search on "P90".

Funny. I was under an early 260Z today and the front diff crossmenber is the one on top.

Sssshhhhhhhh! You'll give away our master plan.

Contrast the "Taking Chance" post with this: http://media.dailycollegian.com/pages/tillman_lobandwidth.html Makes me ill...

http://www.blackfive.net/main/2004/04/taking_chance.html

Keep raggin' on California... Keep it up boys... Ya piss us off enough and we'll open the gates and let all the loonies out. Winchester, Remington, et. al. don't make enough bullets to shoot the hoard that would overrun all the other states. You all should be thanking us every day because we give the rest of the country a place to send their crazies. Think of us as the gaurds of the asylum. Treat us well.

I think the bottom one is the 280 x-member, but measure the width of each. I think the 280Z crossmembers are wider.

Wow!

Reducing unsprung weight (the parts of the car not supported by the springs) helps acceleration, handling, and braking.

What I said above is not exactly true. The thrust bearing surface gets oil that weeps out from the crankshaft bearing surface.

The force of the pressure plate when you have the clutch pedal down is taken by the thrust bearing on the crank. Increasing the clamping force of the pressure plate increases the force on the thrust bearing which is splash oiled on the L6 engine. Starting the car with your foot on the clutch turns the crank against the thrust bearing for a short time with whatever oil has remained on the bearing since the last run (and whatever oil has "seasoned" into the bearing). My old BSP race L6 with a Nissan Motorsports pressure plate and clutch lost its thrust bearing and the crank walked to the point of damage beyond repair after 25,000 miles of racing. Don't start you car with an aftermarket pressure plate with your foot on the clutch pedal. Neutral is your friend.

Not true. Heel toe is a racing technique used to downshift the transmission into the proper gear for power application on corner exit while braking hard before corner entry. By its very nature you are threshold braking with your toe (or ball of your foot) AND blipping the throttle to rev match on downshifts to keep from locking the rear wheels. Its a very difficult technique to perform correctly and its something you have to be able to do to turn fast laps. Again, not true. Double clutching is pressing the clutch in, shifting to neutral, releasing the clutch, revving the engine, pressing the clutch in again, shifting to the next higher or lower gear, and then releasing the clutch. Its used to match input and counter shaft speeds in the transmission to allow for shifting non-synchromesh transmissions (older street and race cars and large trucks).

And after this big workout, not a single mind has been changed or a single opinion altered. Its basically just a big circle jerk.

The clutch won't kill the transmission. What it most likely will do is kill the thrust bearing in the engine and cause the crank to start walking. Never start the car with the clutch in and put the trans in neutral at stop lights.