johnc

It ain't cheatin' if there ain't no rules or rule enforcement... I love real vintage race Zs and almost went that direction with mine. Mark has a beautiful CP replica that was parked next to mine at the MSA show.

We can all come up with anecdotes to support the longevity of pretty much any vehicle. Hell, I know a woman who has 210,000 miles on the first year Yugo and the motor still runs fine. If you look at the numbers compiled over a large sample of vehicles over many years the Japanese manufacturers engineer and produce vehciles of higher reliability then the American or European manufacturers. But, again, that doesn't mean American Car 1 will not last longer then Japanese Car 2. Individual samples will vary from the norm for the whole group. There are lemon Japanese cars and gold star American cars. As a purchaser the odds of buying a gold star vehicle are better if you buy from a Japanese manufacturer. Those odds get that way through better design and manufacture.

It must be my new Gateway notebook... But all I did was reply with the word, "Yes". I swear. Honest Dan.

!Si!

No joke. Having spent some time under various Honda and GM vehicles I can tell you that the Hondas are designed and manufactured to a higher standard then GM products. It makes no sense to engage in conjecture about what a 5.7L GM V8 will do if they built it to the same level (standards?) as the Honda 2L because GM won't (and probably can't) do it. The closest production engine GM had was the ZR1 Corvette engine that Lotus had to develop for GM. There is some great engineering talent in GM, but they don't compare with Honda. BTW... there already hundreds of GM V8s twisting over 9,000 rpms every week. Look at Winston Cup, Busch, ARCA, etc. Those engines make 750 to 850 horsepower in their best state of tune which works out to 150 hp per liter (assuming 5.7L - I could be mistaken on this) on the high end and 131 hp per liter on the low end. Race prepped normally aspirated S2K 2.2L engines make 310 to 340 horsepower which works out to 155 hp per liter on the high end and 141 hp on the low end. Now let's see what happens to this thread...

We all know the real answer to this question: Honda has better engineers then General Motors. GM is even buying Honda V6 engines to put in future Saturns.

What's up with the following message: "You cannot make another post so soon after your last; please try again in a short while." Its not like I'm a lighting fast typist...

Also look into replacing your tie rods and ball joints. Only use Nissan OEM parts for these items. You definately need new shocks and most likely anti-roll bar bushings and end link busings.

After 105K miles you won't be wasting your money replacing them. Buy new Nissan wheel bearings (or an equivilant from Timken, SKF, etc. - nothing from China or Taiwan) and install new races.

Amazing what happens when things are done the right way...

You mean "Mr. Tear A Splitter Off Each Session " Messley? You mean "Pound the Curbs and Rip Out Wheel Well Liners" Erik Messley? You mean "Go Off in 9 and Keep My Foot In It 'Cuz I Got a Good Lap Going" Erik Messley?

That's an East Coast thang. They've got those glass smooth tracks out there so they run big fat monster springs and dinky anti-roll bars. Us West Coast folks have bumpy tracks so we use nice compliant springs and bigger anti-roll bars.

I wouldn't use how the car "feels" as you're driving on the street as a quantitative measurment of how well the car handles. But, assuming you're correct: 1. You anti-roll bars may have been bolted up with pre-load - meaning that overtightening or uneven tightening cased that bars to twist as the car was sitting level. 2. One or more of your anti-roll bar mounts, end links, or mounting points on the control arms are broken. 3. The bushings are shot. 4. One or both of the anti-roll bars are cracked or broken. 5. Your anti-roll bars are too big for the springs and shocks you're running. If the car "feels" more lively and responsive then this is probably the cause. FYI... when you corner weigh a vehicle you're supposed to disconnect the anti-roll bars before the car goes on the scales.

Do what you have to to keep your son around. I'm sorry to see you have to sell the car.

How about Sammy (another hole in a piston) Williamson?

24" Dubs with an R200, 22" Dubs with an R180.

If you're going to put up with the Azenis, for a little more money you can run the Toyo Proxes RA1 and get more grip with less noise. Azenis are as loud as the Yoko A032s.

http://www.mcmaster.com

Is that the Cobra U thing? I can probably do that. Sam Williamson, John Williams, and Brian Spadano are also talking about running it. That would give us 6 Zs out there. Stephen, your Cobra customers are gonna be pissed.

Hi Doug, I don't have any pictures of my brake setup. Maybe one day...

If you want to stay with those rates your cheapest solution is Koni single or double adjustables with some custom valving. Call Erik Messley at 714-713-9096 for info. I'm running 275# front and 300# rear springs with Penske triple adjustable 8760s. My car has a roll bar with some good bracing triangulating the front strut towers. I would recommend those same spring rates as the max for the Tokicos. What size anti-roll bars I run is misleading because of the Penske shocks. Try to get 3 to 3.2 degrees negative camber in front and 2.5 to 3 degrees negative in the rear along with about 1/8" toe-out in front and 1/16" toe-in in rear. You'll also want to run a slightly asymetrical alignment (camber and corner weights) for WSIR. Remember, WSIR is mostly fast right turns. I swap tires depending on how much money I've got and what's the best set on the shelves. Normally Kumho V700 Victoracer 265/45-16 or Hoosier R/A3S03 in 275/45-16, both on 10" wide wheels.

My first guess is that your spring rates are too high especially for Tokico Illuminas. Those shocks are at their rebound control limit with spring rates at 300#. You're also running a big front anti-roll bar and need more camber all the way around. Does your car have a roll cage or a roll bar? FYI... 1:34 is the ITS 240Z lap record at WSIR. That's with 200hp and 225/50-14 tires in a 2,435lb car. FYI2... although I would love to take the credit, the 1:29s turned at WSIR were done with Bryan Lampe driving. I've yet to get a timed lap at WSIR in my car as currently setup. I'm traditionally 3 to 5 seconds a lap slower then Bryan at that track, but maybe I've learned something.

Are you seeing this oversteer at an autocross, a racetrack, or on the street? Semi-trailing arm rear suspensions normally exhibit lift throttle oversteer which is a trait that is beneficial to faster track and autocross times. Sometimes this behavior is sudden so controllability is more difficult.

Yes. Again, get a shop manual. What's being discussed is basic stuff when it comes to a 240Z suspension and its made very clear in the shop or Haynes manual. If you're planning to do any mods to your car you must have the factory service manual or the Haynes shop manual to start.

Here's a thought - maybe replace the stock clutch with... drumroll please... a stock clutch! Nawwww, too obvious, too easy, makes too much sense.