johnc

If you can't find the rear gear you want, can you go with taller rear tires?

The highest Nissan ratio I've ever heard of was a 3.08 used in a Japan only R200 truck diesel application. The highest domestic ratio I've heard of is the 2.64 in the rear end of my 1964 Lincoln Continental.

See how perverted IT minds work? Always thinking of the crotch. That could also be moustache hair, nose hair, head hair from someone with curly hair, chest hair, hair from a poodle, or hair from some guys ass. Why would pubic hair be so scary? Don't both sexes happily spend time with their faces buried in the stuff?

My Monocoque 15 x 8s had exactly .030 clearance to the stock caliper and I never had a rubbing issue. If the wheels are built well then you can run them very close to the calipers.

I briefly looked into this swap and the trans from the various 6 cylinder late Camaros "should" bolt right up to one of the supercharged 3.8Ls.

Many of us don't see the problems that Mike, Pete, Dan, Davy and others have to clean up from time-to-time precisely because they've cleaned the mess up. The volume of that cleanup had grown significantly and it was becoming a burden on people's time. What's being done now is a well thought out, reasoned approach to tightening the rules on the site and making it easier to moderate. I'm fine with it and I'm an L6 guy. Its not going in the direction of the "Soup Nazi." Its only requiring a little more thought and effort by members before posting.

I lost my right rear one in a 80mph left hand turn at Buttonwillow. The only thing that kept me from wrecking was that the brake shoes and the brake drum held the flange, wheel, and tire on the car. I can't answer that, but I did buy the last 4 new OEM ones that Courtesy Nissan could get their hands on and they had the good fusion welds.

The most common failure mode of the stub axles that I have seen (remember, road racing bias) is the separation of the wheel stud flange from the stub axle shaft. This is caused by the flexing of the flange at the fusion weld joining the flange to the stub axle. The flexing is caused by the high lateral G-loads imposed by racing tires on a race track. I have seen pictures of stub axle failures where the axle itself fractured starting at a stress riser in the splines. This was caused by repeated hard drag race launches with racing slicks, but only after the owner had gone through a number of halfshafts that failed in 3 previous years of drag racing. If you are not in the above two categories I wouldn't worry about your stub axles. Do a simple visual inspection of the fusion weld where the flange is attached to the stub axle or take the part to a metal inspection surface and have it checked for cracks. If you are in one of the above two categories then get the 27 spline stub axles and halfshafts. They are beefier in the spline area and (at least the later versions) have a stronger, better radiused, fusion weld. You also have to get the matching 27 spline companion flanges. And, lastly, if you come across the 27 spline, shot peened, and stress relieved Nissan Competion stub axles and companion flanges buy them, clean them, oil them, cherish them, and keep them hidden from racers like me.

It only takes something to be a "little bit" off for you to see toe changes in the rear. With hard launches, lots of horsepower, or just age the rear control arms spread at the front and you see toe changes. Again, hard acceleration and braking puts the loads into the crossmember at the front of ther rear cradle. After 30+ years you can expect to see changes like this. Just replacing the bushings won't neceissarily fix the problem. Take everything apart, inspect and measure, replace fasteners and bushings, and carefully reinstall and torque everything to spec.

I would be very surprised to see a market for this. You would need tens of thousands of enthusiasts to come up with a large enough group (20 people) willing to buy. In the Z market any product that costs over $2,000 is a difficult sell. Most Z folks balk at spending that much for an engine rebuild.

In Drax's example, #4 sould be HARDEST.

From the numbers you also have a rear tracking problem. Do what Tim recommends regarding the front crossmember. Also, replace all the rear lower control arm bushings (inner and outer) to see if your toe issue gets corrected. While doing that, inspect the rear crossmember (where the front diff mounts) and the the two clamps that go over the rear control arm bushings. Often the corssmember or the rear clamps loosen and move causing wierd toe problems. I've also seen worn rear clamps that can only be fixed by shimming the bushings with small, thin strips of stainless steel.

The current LSR for an L6 powered 240Z (about 325 horsepower NA) is around 173mph on salt and that's with a g-nose and a lot of other aerodynamic aids. A stock bodied 240Z with the same power could not break the 160 mark. I've had my 240Z up to 142mph on a race track and it "might" get to 155 if I have enough room (and that's with 305hp.) The acceleration was tapering off above 140. There are very, very few stock bodied 240Zs that have ever exceeded 150 true.

I think the diagonal bar you folks are referring to is called a "Petty Bar" after the family that developed the design. It runs from the right-front of the passenger footwell to either the top of the rear hoop near the drivers head or (more recently) to the center point of the horizontal bar that braces the rear hoop laterally at about driver's shoulder height. This center point is also braced to counter the forces that the Pettty bar introduces. This is a very effective way to stiffen the chassis and I think you see one in every design that Keith has done for the 240Z. The trick is to make the end point near the driver a "structural center" (my own made up term) that can handle loads from 3 axis. In some vehicles the Petty bar is removable so passengers can go for rides but, if the bar is to still be effective, that removability adds weight.

Time for a rebuild. Probably junk between the piston and the bores.

Regardless of where the leak is, you're still going to have to pull the intake and exhaust manifolds. What I've done is fire the engine up cold and immediately run your bare hand around the suspected leak area on the exhaust manifold before it gets too hot. If there's a crack you should be able to feel the exhaust coming out onto your hand.

Don't grease the boots, put some grease on the rack and the inner tie rod ends. Mobil 1 synthetic works well.

You can probably make the swap happen but it won't be "quick." The diff is a bolt in (both are R180 units) but the CVs and brakes require adapters and you can't use the hubs unless you want to do a lot of machining.

I would not drive or ride on a road race track in any vehicle built prior to 1985 UNLESS it had at least a roll bar, a FIA approved race seat, and a current 5 point racing harness. As an instructor I've refused to teach students who had vehicles that didn't met the above criteria. If they don't care for their own lives I certainly can't expect them to care for mine as I'm riding in the passenger seat. Just like riding a motorcycle on the street, on a racetrack the question is not if you're going to crash, but when.

This e-mail has a kernel of truth, in the Rush has made that point on a number of his radio shows, but a lot has been added to the e-mail message from folks other then Rush. Here's the original: http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/outrage/military.htm This is also still a sensitive topic especially for those who lost family and friends on 9/11. I'm going to lock it at this point unless someone can make a good case for keeping it going.

My dad (what was he thinking) took me to see the Exorcist in the theaters when it first came out. I think I was 10 or 12, can't remember. Being raised Catholic and "knowing" this was absolutely true, I was scared pooless for months afterwards and my mom was really pissed at my dad.

Sure you can! Joe Gibbs Racing only uses Lincolns SP135 110v welders to build their NASCAR WC chassis.

Another thing to remember, unless you have a roll bar (for the rear) or a roll cage tied into the front strut towers going over 300lb.in. on either end of the car starts to turn the Z chassis into a spring. It flexes.

As Tim said regarding most alignment shops. Basically, all they do is "get it in the green" and call it done. FYI... Tuesday I took my Z to Erik Messley at EMI Racing to get it aligned. Started at 8:30am and was done at 10:00pm. That's the kind of effort it takes to get a racing 240Z properly aligned.

Pete, Everyone has different goals for the hybrid they are building. Some have an "all Nissan" goal for whatever reason (preference, rules, bigotry) and that's fine 'cuz here at HybridZ we don't "require" a member to use specific alternative parts in the development of their hybrid. When things cross the line is when a person espouses their goals as fit for others. I'm a good example. My car has a Nissan L6 engine because the rules required it at the time I was building the car. That was one of the goals in building my car and I CERTAINLY don't encourage, justify, proclaim, potificate, or demand that others follow a similar path when building their hybrids - it cost me a buttload of money to 300+ hp out of an NA L6. So, the fact that my car is basically "all Nissan" doesn't get me in trouble here because I'm not demanding others follow the same path. I think that's the "line of demarcation" that I have not crossed. Plus its cool to beat up on Chebbies at the track...