johnc

Bosch Motorsports liss the following: The 979 pushes 165lbs per hour at 5 bar. The 044 pushes 200lbs per hour at 5 bar. I couldn't find a spec for the 957 pump.

Make sure its the right pump. Lots of Bosch pumps look the same so look for these numbers 0 580 254 979 188 23 BOS 61-979 That's the good Porsche 911 pump.

> - are the rearward supports from a roll hoop to the strut > towers really worth the weight vs just a roll hoop? Absolutely! > - what can I do to the inside of the door to substitute for a > door bar, while still having full use of the window? Nothing, you'll also have to reinforce the door jambs, door latch and striker, etc. to make a door bar effective. > - what can I do to the underside of the floor, short of the > famous pete paraska style re-frame, to help > stiffen/safen the car? Not much, you'll have to run a subframe from about where the TC rod mounts all the way back to at least the underside of the rear bulkhead to have something effective. > - is there anything else I can do? Triangulate the front strut towers, side to side and back to the center of the firewall. Weld tabs onto your roll bar and connect it to the roof where the hatch hinges are and connect it to the little knobs in the body under the rear 1/4 windows.

Try swapping the front and rear springs.

I've bought and installed 3 of the 4x4 R180s into a 1970, 1971, and 1972 240Z and never had a problem with the diff stub axles mating up to the 240Z halfshafts. Maybe I was just lucky.

.125 mild steel should be more then enough. A few well placed gussets will stiffen it plenty for engine mounts.

You should be able to just bolt in the entire unit. They 4x4 front R180s spin the same direction as the rear R180s.

If you're on the bump stops in the rear you need more compression damping and/or more rear spring. You may also want to shorten your bump stops. But, if you're REALLY on the rear bump stops you would experience sudden and dramatic oversteer.

Forget the tooth and go to this web site: http://www.mrbling.com/. Your kid can be stylin' for probably half the price a dentist would charge to fix the real tooth...

Go to http://www.zhome.com and do some searching. Carl has most of the information about VINs and model years but no specific vehicle info. When buying a 32 year old car you can safely assume its been in a wreck, it might be flood damaged, it could be cleaned up salvage title, and it might have been stolen once or twice in its life. Inspect the car thoroughly for rust, damage, and repair. And welcome to the Z community. FYI... your VIN is probably HLS30076006 or HLS3076006 which makes it the 76,006 left hand drive S30 model Datsun produced. Most likely built in the summer of 1972.

> The present front alignment specs are 2.2 degrees castor What katman said except I think castor is more important then he does, especially if you're using offset lower control arm bushings. You can run the offset bushings up to reduce some of the bumpsteer and then use castor to retain the camber curve. I've never measured an early Z with that low a positive castor number (2.2). 6 degrees positive is a good number to shoot for. Congratulations on being sensitive enough to spot these issues in a Z.

A structure welded to or completely integrated into the monocoque becomes part of the monocoque. In general, adding mass to almost any structure increases the structure's strength to some degree. So, adding tubing to the bottom of the 240Z monocoque will increase its resistance to longitudinal bending and that's the thinking behind subframe connectors (also used a lot on Mustangs and Camaros). Its not the most efficient way to increase the strength of the monocoque but it works. My rudeness wasn't that rude, I was just being a smart-ass again. Been working for about a month straight without a day off so I'm a bit irritable. I'm going racing this weekend so I'll be a more pleasant person next week.

I'm just a thunderstorm waiting to dump on folks... > the frame there combined with the suspension, > would make the car more stable, therefore safer. A simple ladder frame made of seamed mild steel tubing will be very flexible. The chassis will be much less stable then the 240Z monocoque design. Think pickup truck. > but there is a much better base there for a roll cage, > so the car could more safe. I can hear the thunder now... Better get your umbrella... The 240Z monocoque chassis has 12 years of OEM engineering and deisgn and 33 years of racing development under its belt. A properly designed and installed roll cage makes the monocoque extremely stiff and strong and a monocoque structure is a much better design to start with if chassis stiffness and strength is important. If cheapness and ease of construction is your main criteria, then go with a ladder frame. I apologize for raining on your parade. EDIT: I deleted some rudeness on my part.

FYI... Send questions to my regular e-mail address. I always forget to check if I have private messages.

Carroll Smith's "...To Win" series. If you only buy one of these, buy "Tune to Win." http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0879380713/104-9431438-3196753 The ultimate bible is "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by the Millkens: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1560915269/qid%3D1062956448/104-9431438-3196753

> I would feel 100% safer in my Z if i had a chassis like that though!. You might feel safer, but the reality is that you would be in greater danger.

Being of Irish descent I'm all for immigration. Over 2 million Irish came over from about 1845 to 1890 and all the same problems occurred, all the same complaints were aired, but eventually things worked out pretty well for this country and the immigrants. The same is happening with the Hispanic immigrants. The millions of "illegal" immigrants we have in California are already driving around, already receiving medical and social services, are already paying taxes, and are already raising second, third, and sometimes fourth generation families. Giving them a driver's liscense isn't going to suddenly increase demands for services that are already being delivered. This is a purely political issue that both parties are using for whatever advantage they think they can gain. It has no affect in the real world. BTW... I'm a registered republican and voted for Bill Simon, Bush (both), etc. BTW2... Despite all that I read in the papers, things are pretty good here in California. I've also found that not listening to talk radio (Rush, etc.) has made me a happier person - the sky's not falling after all! BTW3... I think its funny to hear Arnold say he's going to try and repeal this bill. Who does he think takes care of his landscaping every week? How does he think the crew gets there? How pissed would he be if they didn't show up 'cuz none of them could drive the truck? I'll still vote for Arnold but he needs to think a bit more.

> im gonna be putting a big ass weld on these struts Try three small tack welds first and then fit everything together to make sure it all works. Then, instead of making a "big ass" weld, why don't you weld it correctly with enough penetration while avoiding overheating the part? Any weld beat above the part surface is wasted - it doesn't add strength, just weight and heat. Also, check my thread on how to section a strut.

DOT 5 is silocon based and doesn't handle the heat well. DOT 5.1 is a special type of DOT 4 brake fluid that's supposed to be realy good for racing but I've yet to see anyone run it on the track.

Probably suspension, but the only way you'll know for sure is to mount them on the car.

Might rub, not flush, too much in or out depends on what you think is too much.

Are they stock diamter springs? If so and you're not going with coil-overs on your club car then try cutting one coil out.

Find a rear strut that wasn't machined incorrectly.

Try backing off the adjustment for the rear shoes. For the street they should be tight enough to just barely drag the drum when turning the tire by hand.

See the little link up top with the magnifying glass icon? Learn it, use it, love it.