johnc

> The issue is, what happens to the temper of the > steel, and how to restore it. If you get it hot enough to bend easily you're probably annealing the steel. All temper is gone and your back to the strength of the base metal. I don't know for sure what metal is used in the strut tubes or what heat treating process they might have been subjected to. But I have cut and welded a number of them and they appear to be a low carbon steel. Your best bet is to throw those away and replace them with a known good used set.

http://www.itgairfilters.com/ That was hard.

Yup. There is some debate about the long term strength of the R160 behind an L6 but you can put it in and run it until it breaks (if it ever does.) I think for a street Z it should be fine. If you drag or roadrace it then you might run into strength issues.

Sectioning struts is done to get back some of the bump travel that's lost when a 240Z is lowered more then a couple inches. 1 to 2" of the strut tube is cut out which requires the use of VW Rabbit or Toyota MR2 applicaiton struts in the front and the 240Z front struts moved to the rear. If you are not lowering your 240Z more then 2" then I wouldn't consider sectioning and that means you can use the Tokico Illuminas designed for the 240Z.

Probably. If its more expensive its probably build from better tubing and/or has a better design.

Tim, You can do what Toma suggests or you can do some searching in a scrap steel yard for a very thin wall stainless tube as a sleeve inside the 280Z strut.

I guess each wheel manufacturer does things their own way. I just spent 18 months ordering custom wheels from BBS, Monocoque, Bogart, Kinesis, and Kodiak. All specify "backspace" from the wheel mounting surface to the tire bead mounting surface and wheel "depth" from the wheel mounting surface to the absolute inside lip of the wheel. BTW... every single one of manufacturers above is a LIAR except for Monocoque and Kodiak. BBS went so far as to give me bogus UPS tracking numbers for wheels they claimed to have shipped.

SCCA has rules regarding roll bar (and cage) tubing dimensions and construction. These rules are based on decades of racing experience and are generally pretty good. You can figure the roll bar built to SCCA specs will help you in case of an accident.

Quaife makes a sequential 6 speed that will bolt right up with some engineering from Taylor Race Engineering in Texas.

Well... 4" backspace if you're measuring to the outside edge of the wheel, but a zero offset wheel, by definition, would be dead center between the rim halves so the width from the wheel mounting surface to the inside bead mounting surface is 3.5" (7 / 2 = 3.5). The correct way to measure backspace is to the bead mounting surface.

> When taking a corner at high speed the rear > wheels hop to the outside of the turn. We need more information then this: 1. What are you doing with the throttle before and while this happens? off, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full? 2. What are you doing with the brakes when before and while this happens? off, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full? 3. What are you doing with the steering before and while this happens? 4. When does this happen? Corner entry, mid-corner, corner exit? 5. What tire pressures are you running? 6. What kind of condition are your tires? 7. What brand and model of tires? 8. Do you have an open, limited slip, or welded rear diff? 9. Is the road surface bumpy? 10. Are the Tokicos adjustable? If so, what settings front and rear? That's a good list to start with.

The width measurement is from inside bead mounting surface to inside bead mounting surface. The overall width is probably close to 8" but I've got 15 x 7 and 14 x 7 Panasports, 14 x 7 Revolutions, and 15 x 7 Enkies and they all measure 7" from bead to bead.

225/50-15 is a very common size on a 15 x 7 rim. Run 3.5" backspace with 0 offset. That's a common configuration for many Z 15" rims.

McMaster-Carr

Welcome back Arthur. Did Ford come with you? Got your towel?

Had one on my 240Z for years behind a 2.5" exhaust. It sounds great but its load. 91db at full throttle measured 50' away. Driving through parking lots I would set off car alarms.

I'm supposed to trade these wheels in a month for a couple Quaife diffs, but I would rather sell them. They are expensive but I'm willing to talk about the price: http://www.zparts.com/ads/wheels/pages/wfs-12.html

Yes.

Is this an endurance racing Z? If not, you probably don't need to duct air to the rear brakes. Some ITS guys do when they run longer events but they just run the ducting underneath the car and pull air from around the front of the diff.

> sitting for a year... no rust The above two terms do not go together. $2,500 for a clean, all the parts are there, running 240Z is reasonable. But I'm willing to bet money there's rust in the car.

Back in the early 1980s my ex-brother-in-law had a 1967 Dodge Tradesman van that was an old Sears repair van. He left it Sears blue/green, with all the Sears logos and lettering, and it still had the ladder rack with a ladder tied to it. Inside he installed a worked over 440 Magnum with a 727 Torqueflight and some kind of Dana rear with 4.56 gears. The engine was set back about 12" and lowered in the chassis about 4". Those old Tradesman vans had the engine sitting inside the van in a dog house next to the driver's seat. The rear was narrowed and the interior tubbed so he could run 14" wide street slicks on blue/green painted steel wheels and he had some Lakewood ladder bars running forward to the transmisison mount. That van would run 11.2s in the 1/4 all day long. He could also pull the front wheels 3' off the ground and hold them there until he hit 2nd gear. Every weekend he would drive to different parts of Southern California and try to work up some street races. Unless he was recognized he could usually scare up a few races and make a couple hundred dollars. By about 1985 the van and he were so well known no one would race him. He sold it to someone in Arizona in 1986. I always wonder what happened to that van.

The two pieces meet slightly above the wheel arch but are welded/rolled together at the turned in lip. What happens when you really englarge the wheel well is a gap is created between the two sheets and you can't bend them together. You have to cut and weld in another strip sheet to span that gap and restore some of the strength.

Pegasus, Racer Parts Wholesale, IO Port, Summit, JEGS, etc. All sell Purosil race hose in straight lengths and various bends. Figure about $7.00 per foot. You will have to fabricate whatever you need from the basic shapes sold and some aluminum tubing because no one sells race stuff specific for the Z. And David, If you use both an upper and a lower race radiator hose you get 30 more horsepower - each hose is worth 15 each.

Use an air nibbler to open up the wheel wells. And yes, you do have to weld the rear inners and outers back together. That is a structural part of the Zs monocoque.

Got a Quartermaster 5.5" behind my L6. It is NOT a street clutch. They are basically an in/out clutch - slipping it for any amount of time will burn out the facings. I've even stopped driving my car onto the trailer, it gets winched on now.