DavyZ

Racer X & Sunny, I forgot about the clay! I have Mother's clay bar that I used on my paint to get off the fallout from around here, but I didn't think to use it on overspray. I'm sure it will work on the lighter stuff--thanks for the info! The part that has me concerned is the bad tape edge that allowed thick paint on the plastic lens. It is just along the edge and is very annoying to look at I appreciate everyone's great suggestions!!! Davy

I think I should know the answer to my own question, but I can't make a mistake with these tail lenses I bought a little while back. The overspray is two types: the light 'mist' type and the obvious heavy type that results from improper taping before shooting the paint. I do not want to ruin the red plastic parts and I am wondering if anyone here has had the same issues, but has successfully removed the overspray without harming the shiny finish of the plastic. The first product that comes to mind is plastic polish, but I'm really unsure if this is the best thing to remove paint. Guys I can't afford to screw this up so I'm putting the question out there. Suggestions? Davy

Good point. Way more economical, but the spray can has pressure to shoot into cracks and crevices, otherwise the mineral spirits is a great idea. Thanks for the info, Geimann. Davy

I have seen Goof Off at the store, but have never used it. I do have Goo Gone and I know it does not hurt plastic--I'll try the Goo Gone, but I don't think it will work for old overspray. The Goof Off just might. I hope I don't melt the plastic with all of these chemicals!! j/k Davy

Give it to me? Hmmm, we have to talk again--I didn't think he still had the car! I have enough parts to practically make a car. I'll have to call you on Monday, Jason (I figure you'll be too busy on Saturday). Davy

Not good. Doesn't matter; I want a 400 SBC anyway. Davy

Camaro. Davy

Nah, you just order the stuff! Man, that system looks very trick! I have thought about running the tips out the sides in the rear and you beat me to it! I think the whole system will work well--great ground clearance too! Davy

Thanks guys!! I think the denatured alcohol that Spotfitz mentioned would be the easiest on the plastic. I am shying away from sandpaper for the main reason that they are not completely smooth and have raised manufacturer writing on them. The idea of clear coating them to get back gloss is a great idea and I think would work well. I will use plastic polish and the bumpersticker remover first after the denatured alcohol. We shall see what happens. BTW, these are not brand new lights, just ones from a Skyline... Davy

It sounds as if you have come across a real diamond in the rough so to speak---a little bit of work and a new exhaust...you're there! Davy

Maybe Oakland! That would put the shop on the East side of the Bay closer to all of us! Davy

I love to see updates! That way, we know how the problem was resolved and what it finally took to do it!! Davy

Per JTR: "If you are going to use a Camaro 5-speed transmission in your 240Z, the 1971-1973 console should be used to allow the shifter to come out in the proper location, otherwise, the 1970 console will need to be trimmed slightly for shifter clearance. 1974 and newer concoles have the same shifter location as the 1971-1973 cars, but will not fit in earlier cars." Hope that helps. Davy

The tranny can be swapped quite easily. The rear lights may be another story, but if the car is nice and the price is right... Try Lone's magnet idea and see if it works--that'll tell you about the flares. Davy

I love Berryman's Chemtool. There are other products to be sure, but a lot of mechanics like Berryman's. Buy it at any automotive store. Davy

I bet it helps a bit with the aerodynamics of the car--and you above all people can appreciate that Davy

I think scca (Mike Gibson) has pics of the different Wilwood calipers on his site. They all look similar though.... Davy

You could email Ross at www.modern-motorsports.com and he could get you some I'm sure--he deals with coil-over setups, so I'm sure he has connections. Davy

Hmmm, I sent it to your email address: wingnut1@prodigy.net ---is this correct? I sent it again at 10:15 AM west coast time. Larry, you have mail too at the same time. Guys, let me know if they go through; and they better have gone through by now Davy

You have mail Davy

I have an idea that Jason is going to bang gears all the time (drag racing). He is young and crazy like Leonard, but in an Irish kind of way. (I didn't really say that, Jason!) Davy

I would ask three places: 1) Ferrari dealership --find out who does their wheel repairs, or who they would recommend. 2) Hot Rod shop that deals with retro (older) Ford spoke rims--find out if they repair them or who do they recommend. 3) Lowrider shop --seriously, they deal with wire wheels all the time, or at least know of a place that does. Davy

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, Gramps. You can do the swap legally on your '76 Z if you pull an engine from a '76 V8 Chevy car and all the smog equipment too (PCV, charcoal cannister, smog pump, etc.) The engine compartment will look a bit cluttered, but that's not a big deal. Read about it in the JTR book, if you have not already purchased it, and do it legally to the car you have now. Once you get the car registered legally with the V8, you can then buy smog legal performance parts to hop it up a bit. The car will still be fast and you have the option (it is illegal ) to pull out the smog stuff and reinstall it every two years. The smog pump is really the only thing I personally don't like BTW. Davy

IMO, to hold any car from the mid 70's and older to emissions laws is pretty stupid. They are very few in number, and the ones that are left are either restored, hot rodded, or on their last legs before the recycler. Davy

Dan Juday might be able to shed some light on that, as can a few others. IMO, you should solder the wires together again, but let's hear a second opinion first. Davy