DavyZ

But Auxilary just enjoys the smell of burning rubber!! Davy

Douglas, There was a place called FAR performance in Mtn. View, CA that I used to frequent in the '80's when I had a 510. In this place there were pictures of all the cool Datsuns from all over--the one that struck me the most was a 510 with a Buick 215 ci motor/Rover V8. It was like the engine and car were made for each other--it fit oh so snuggly. Davy

Uh, Easy Off contains a strong base or acid and I'm sure it would not do any amount of good to the plastic lens. I appreciate the tips (shaving cream and ashes is interesting--the smell might be hard to take though) and the info! Davy

Super sano install--it'll rock... Davy

Naw, that's new info AFAIK. Thanks for the tip. The more I consider it, the more I think stealth is the way to go (not letting anyone know what's under the cowl inducted hood ). Davy

Yeah, it was zthang43 that posted it. I bought the tool and am very happy with it's performance--it turns a mountain of pain into a molehill of ease. I would buy another one. Here is the link to his email: zthang43@hotmail.com Davy

There is no JTR manual for swapping the V6 into the '84 Z car. You are on your own for this one. It can be done, so just please document the swap while you do the swap. The V8 in the S10 would be more fun I think Davy

Expensive and not really necessary on the street. But boy they sure look good... Davy

Gosh, I remember that! You even tried whining and that didn't even work! Davy

Lee, welcome to the HybridZ forum The MSA vs JTR vs Scarab vs John's Cars argument has been hashed out a bit on this forum. Suffice it to say that if you buy the JTR book, they have diagrams for you to make the parts yourself! I think it might be the best way for you to go since you have a decent shop to use. The MSA is a kit only without any diagrams, but is still a decent kit nonetheless. Suffice it to say that you'll have a ton of information and diagrams with instructions with the JTR book. You can get to their site by clicking here: www.jagsthatrun.com Hoe this helps, and good luck on your conversion!! Davy

That just bites. You should be able to get your money back or get a replacement. Be cool and calm about it, but hang in there and don't let them get away with it. Davy

The 307 is certainly not a performance motor of choice, but for the money I think you did just fine. Unless you are really strapped for cash and the 307 is a complete motor, I would look for a 350 that someone is selling for cheap. The extra cubes will make a ton of difference in the Z, no question about it. Cheers, Davy

This should help: http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm Davy

It probably is pure economics--they can't justify making less than say 500 of any particular wheel in a specific 4-bolt pattern that people won't buy most, if not all of them. Also, it could be a "safety" or "engineering" issue. Who knows. Davy

Cripes, yes it can! I found a Z website a while ago (can't remember where ) that documented how the owner took the old, stinky, worm-eaten cardboard thingie and used it as a template to fab a metal one. This is what he did: 1) Removed the old carboard unit INTACT as much as possible. 2) Unfolded it and placed it flat on paper to make a good, accurate template with straight lines. 3) Used the template to trace a pattern on mild sheetmetal (it was a rather thin gauge metal if I remember correctly). 4) Folded the metal into shape and sprayed it with a wrinkle-finish paint or undercoating (it was textured). 5) Installed the glovebox and he was finished. I think you could get away with step #2 if you wanted, but I think it would be helpful. This is a seemingly easy way to improve a bad box--I will certainly be doing the same if the glovebox I get is even the slightest bit ugly. One reason the box was made with carboard was to keep the noise down in the glovebox. If you think items sliding around in a metal box will be too loud for you, you can always insulate the box or rubberize the inside, etc. Use your imagination, Shiin, the sky is the limit! Davy

Wow, so the Ford gauge works 'backwards.' Hmmm, I always knew they were kind of that way...lol Sorry, I just couldn't resist... Davy

I think you have one of the better sites out there, Lone. You put a lot of time & effort in it and it has payed off (not taking away anything from the other guys' sites on the forum--each has its merits and I, for one, am glad that they are there). You are just "viciously creative" See ya when you get back in town! Davy

Miles, I have used "CD2 Oil Detergent," available at the local Kragen auto parts store, with much success. It comes in a yellow bottle and seems to do the job reasonably well. 1 to 2 bottles should do the trick if your problem is in fact a sticking lifter. Hope this helps. Davy

Rick, Don't mean to dump on you, but you should really post this in the chassis forum, not the Chevy engine forum. Anyway, the answer is 'none.' Or, if you need to do any modifications, it will be the transmission tunnel brackets--they MIGHT need to be removed. Hopefully there will be enough room that you don't have to do anything at all. Hope this helps. Davy

Best bang for the buck w/o V8 power? Go turbo. get an L6 turbo engine from a 280ZXT, bolt it in and go! Use Drax's website to get the particulars--lots of power on the cheap. Go for it. Davy

Welcome! Davy

Lipstick?!?? Bwaahahahaaaa! Davy

I have seen pictures of some of RacerX's work, and I can tell you that it is darn impressive to say the least. He knows his stuff, that's for sure! Davy

Welcome to the HybridZ forum! Please make good use of the search function to find out information you need. Most likely the basic questions you ask have been answered before many times. That said, the engine and tranny combos available in Camaros and Firebirds are mostly LT1 engines with either the T56 (6 speed) or 700R4 (or equivalent 4 speed automatic). Someone else can give you the 'best' years to look out for, but 1993 on up sounds about right. Again, use the search function to find what info you need. Biggest piece of advice: buy the JTR Datsun Z V8 Conversion manual from Jags That Run: www.jagsthatrun.com ; also, you may want to get their TPI/TBI Engine Swap manual as well. Those two books will give you enough information to show you what all is involved with the swap and what time & money it will take. As far as the rear diff, that's your choice. An R200 rear end came in most 280Z's. The JTR book and many Z guy's websites will show the differences between the differentials. If you want a solid rear axel, the fabrication has been completed by many guys here, but post in one of the other forums devoted to that part of the car. Good luck with your project! Davy

Can't help you with the 'warp' issue on the mustache bar, but I can tell it is possible to pull the mustache bar without dropping the diff. Auxilary and I pulled a mustache bar from a 280Z about a month ago. We removed all the associated nuts & bolts and left the diff hanging from the front mount and driveshaft. We also removed the rear crossmember and bought that too, but I can't recall if this was needed or not? I believe it is. All in all, if I was doing this on a car I liked, I would use a jack to help support the diff, in addition to beign able to slowly lower it too. Hope this helps. Davy