DavyZ

Summit has some Posi-Lock No Crimp Connectors that I was going to suggest as a possible alternative, but then I saw the price and figured that another trip to Home Depot instead really can't hurt anything ... Davy

Loookin Goood!!! If it goes half as fast as it looks, it'll fly... Davy

Hrm, that must be a later model Q45. Mine has even bigger, more garish handles than those. They will look very big on the relatively small Z. The Q45 handles on the older cars were all steel, large, and very nice, but were designed for much larger cars; in essence, they were made to impress. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but IMO they are just a bit on the big side for a Z. In looking at doing any kind of body modifications to a small car, symmetry becomes all too important; changing something small can have a huge effect on the overall look or "feeling" you get from the car. I applaud your resolve to do something about the wimpy Z door handles though I agree with you that there needs to be a better solution to the stock ones IMO. Davy

Well, some seats have really funky offset or mounts that are different levels, like the ones in my 200sx (shiver), I could never get decent seats into that car, and I'm glad it's long gone. The main concern I have with adapting just any seats is the amount of space they take from floorpan to my butt. I am of the tall variety, so headroom is always a concern. I know Craig Borden swapped his seats several times before finally going back to stock, because he just didn't have enough headroom...of course he's what, 6'4"?!? Davy

Welcome to the forum! C'mon guys, it was a little mistake... You will need to buy the JTR book from JagsThatRun. Read it through several times, and then research your state's policy on engine swaps. You will need to know what you can and cannot do--the smog Nazi's don't take kindly to fooling with the smog equipment in some areas Also, use the search function on this forum to get the info you need. Chances are, the question you asked has been answered in good detail before. I'm not discouraging you from asking questions, but by all means use the search function. Assuming you have done your research, you will need and engine, transmission, JTR kit, and various odds & ends that make for a costly hobby. Good luck! Davy

Hey, I was there, Lone! I didn't see ya...must have just missed you (bummer) Davy

Clumzy, If you do go blower, then make sure the engine has forged pistons etc. I think your move to an engine with 350 hp is better, at least for the time being. As Tim suggested, take a look for a motor--there are lots of crate engine builders and many advertise in places like Super Chevy, Chevy High Performance, Car Craft, Hot Rod, et al. Just do research, make lists, and use the search function on this site to gather the info. And, do all this after reading and rereading the JTR book. Good luck! Davy

Julius, this does not answer your questions, sorry, but just to add to the rest of the thread, the leather seats that come in the Dodge Challengers/Chargers (FWD Turbos) are VERY nice! I wonder if they can be adapted to the Z? Hmmm... Davy

quote: Originally posted by Omar: Why would you wanna get urethane motor mounts? I thought the whole point of the GM original parts was that the rubber was softer and thus transmitted less vibrations?? Omar, the poly mounts do transmit more vibes, but they are also stronger and offer less movement--better for a performance setup, IMO, than the stock ones. For the most part, I have been happy with the feel of the GM mounts on the HybridZ's that I have driven and been in, but I like the idea of polyurethane mounts AND they look better(especially red)!!!! BLKMGK, I remember that old thread about your mount woes and the research you went through to get them, and the final result--nothing! However, in principle it is very difficult for me to believe there is not an ES application that would fit our conversions--the idea that we are locked into a specific mount for trucks and that's it just does not seem reasonable to me. I'm almost positive it is just a matter of time until we find an ES (or similar) mount the works very well in place of the GM softies. Just my $.02. Davy

I would try to do as mark just suggested. FWIW, I have seen stranger things happen, when I worked for the dealership--many times a car would have been fixed for one thing and then break down due to another. Very frustrating for the customer as well as for the mechanics--it just looks really bad, but on an older car, anything can happen. Hope it is an easy fix Davy

Scott, that sounds very interesting--cost effective solutions for nagging problems I am always on the look out for. What I like about the Painless systems, is that they are labeled for the average dumm..er, person. Simplicity is what is so appealing. However, the BMW solution sounds interesting if it is effective. Thanks for sharing. Davy

Very nice site, BTW! I was scrolling thru the site and noticed a pic of a motor on the "automotive links" page--it has an ugly black carb like my motor does....then I realized, "Hey, that is MY motor!" lol Too funny! Good pics on the build up--I like that airdam, man! Davy [ November 06, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

I paid a premium for my mounts from a GM dealer--and that was with the dealer to dealer discount! (ouch). Next time I do this, I'll buy the Energy Suspension units from Northern Auto Parts or Summit for $55 for all three... Davy

Terry, the weight seems to be just over 10 lbs--but that's with the hoses (about 4 feet of metal & rubber) and with the bottom part of the steering shaft. The whole assembly is light and I'm sure is within ounces of the Datsun assembly, I'm sure of it. I'll have to check the amount of rack movement like you suggested, but I don't have a Z to really compare anything with right now--yes, that is an excuse. Yes, the amount of rack movement on the short side would be the questionable one, but just eyeballing it, there appears to be enough space for proper movement. I am at the short end of the stick right now with Z cars (not having one currently) and the job situation prevents me from going out and nabbing one, but I'll do eveything I can to provide info. Pete, the tie rod ends are really long and I'm sure can be cut & threaded to the proper length, as Leonard mentioned, I'm sure of it. As for producing more bumpsteer...well, that we will have to see. BLKMGK, I'll post pics if Auxilary can come by and snap some--I have not heard from him a few days, but hopefully will soon. What would be most helpful would be having a Datsun rack next to it in the photo...And yes, this was probably a '93 since the build date was in '92. There is almost no way you'll be able to easily measure and scrutinize your rack in the RX7--they pack those things in tight!!! Lone, maybe I'm getting old, because I like PS!! Thanks for the ideas guys! I'll keep us posted. Davy

Well, I can't contain my enthusiasm for much longer and would like to share with you a certain find of mine recently. Some of us are looking for power rack & pinion steering for our rides. And, Alsil has one of the best documented sites for adapting a Mustang rack to the Z. I eventually want the same thing, but am stuck WITHOUT a Z for the time being to do anything yet. However, let me tell you about the other day... Fairlady 327 (Leonard) and I were in the local JY and we stumbled upon a GenIII RX7 ('92?) that had been sideswiped. All of the running gear had been taken and there was almost nothing left in the car. Len noticed that the power steering rack looked a lot like the Z rack and even had the same mounting provisions! Well, after unbolting the unit, we strolled over to the Z cars and held it up in place, next to the Datsun unit still on the Z. The Mazda rack looks like it was made by the same company, and I have to say it is virtually identical, except for the hydraulic lines and the fact that it is 2 inches wider. I purchased the rack even though I have no idea if the thing will actually work or not, but it looks like it can with very little fabbing (but I may still be wrong) and that intrigued me enough to shell out $29 for the sweet rack. The main issue with fitment on the Z is going to be that extra two inches out to the right side, but I'm not sure this will even make a working difference on a Z. I am not a mechanical engineer, so I'm unsure of the consequences of having an "uneven" or "non-centered" position of the rack--more research needed for that... So why am I posting this? Well, if there are some guys out there that have a Z and an RX7 (BLKMGK, are you listening?), they can do a comparo if they want and give an opinion. I figure that sharing this info may help in finding a near bolt-in replacement for a manual rack, which benefits everyone. I have not done extensive research as of yet, and find it difficult to do so, especially being Z-less for the time being. I would have liked to have brought better, more complete info to the table, but some is better than none IMO. I just could not contain my enthusiasm for such a possibility, but please don't get your hopes up without looking into it first. The RX7 rack measures 20.5" from the end to end of the main tube, 31" from boot end to boot end, and 50" overall. Obviously the overall length can easily be changed, so that is not a concern. BTW the main mount at the junction of the steering shaft & the rack (left side of assembly) looks to be the same size as the Datsun unit with the same mounting provisions. The second mount (right side) is actually movable?!? Wow, this may turn out to be easier than I thought, but this would mean there would still be those extra two inches sticking out to the right side, and that has me concerned. Since I do not have a digital camera, I'll ask Auxilary to come by and snap some photos of it, and then we can post them. Ideally, I would like to post pics of the Datsun unit and the RX7 unit side by side for comparison sake. Just thought I'd let you know what was up Davy

A good INURFAC (In Your Face) might do, as would VTEC THS! (V-TEC This!). Boy, am I punchy tonight... Davy

Craig, you have an incredibly cute baby daughter! I have had two of them (well, the wife did really) and one baby boy. Heh, the cuteness of babies make you want to have more; I swear it's true...(sigh) Davy

That's not Dan's car, Lone. His car is going to make that one look like a plain Jane runner.... Dan has much more aggressive (but very tastefully done) flares in the rear of his car. I can't wait to see what his car looks like with paint!!!!! Go Dan Go! Davy

quote: Originally posted by Les Heath: The trick to making paint stick to Aluminum is to use an etchable primer... Ditto on the "etchable" part. If you can't find that type of primer at your autoparts store, try looking at an automotive paint supply place. If that does not work, there's always Eastwood Davy

If you can post a pic, that would help! Davy

Que Bella! Magnifico! Davy

Hey Len, go to Craig Borden's site--there is a fusable link upgrade for sale--I know that is ONE of your problems--his fix looks really good BTW. http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/maxifuse.htm Davy [ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

BTW, some locksmiths will be able to fit those type of locks on your car. I have seen customer's cars replaced with those trick locks--they look great and and are harder (if not impossible) to pick. Davy

I am assuming you are going carbed now? Yes? Well, most of that wiring you can just cap off. According to the JTR manual, there are only a few wires going to the engine compartment that are needed. You do have a manual, yes? I would locate those wires as mentioned and cap off the rest. If I knew exactly where they cam from, I would cut them back--but that's only knowing for sure I had all relevant wires already hooked up to my working engine. Just food for thought. Davy

With your current setup, the Performer will do very nicely. I have to echo on what Lone said, that you have "more potential" in the future to expand your horsepower capabilities if you go with the RPM manifold. I have to tell you, you will probably not recognize any real differences between manifolds with your current setup. There is also an outside possibility that the Performer may have a little bit better off-the-line snap to it with your current setup. I think you will be happy This is all IMO BTW. Davy