rudypoochris

Interesting.... I have heard quite the opposite about fade resistance... I would believe that a drum with its larger mass could soak up more heat on a one time panic stop but I am sure over any amount of time they can;t keep up with a vented disc. The larger surface area would also be good for one time panis stops.

Thanks for the number! I rebuilt the 4150 and that is what is going on now. I have decided that if I go EFI it will most likely be a megasquirt setup with a custom intake manifold. The stock one is just to bulky, not worth it in my opinion.

I am just wondering why manufacturers continue to use drum brakes rather frequently on the rear of cars. People seem to say it is due to the drum brakes cheaper cost and less complex parking brake setup... Is that really true? Is the cost that much less? One would think it would be easier to make a disc setup than drums. On trucks and buses which would need very good brakes, drums seem to often be used. Is it even then that the manufacturers are trying to cost cut? Do drums have a larger pad area allowing for better initial bite and performance at the expense of repeatability? I believe drums require less line pressure to operate if setup correctly, is this a possible reason why? To gain more of a braking advantage? Do their engines not provide sufficent vacuum? Thanks!

Pretty sure SC400 manuals are acctually non existant unelss modified in. SC300 5-speeds were available from 90-97. Imho they seem all overpriced auto or manual versions...

The problem with the s2000 is that it falls flat on its face for reliable easy power improvements... It is pretty light for a modern car though.

Background This is RudypooChris' and yologoat's project. The car was purchased in around 2003 for $610. It has a build date of 11/71 making it a series 3 car. The car was reletively rust free, had a thrown connecting rod, and the drivers side frame rail is deflected up about 1/2". The car had been sitting for around 2 months in the San Francisco Japan Town Safeway parking lot with a claimed 160k miles on the ODO. The original idea was to find a classic car that yologoat and I could rebuild and implement a Ford 302 he had lying around into. The car was my freshman year (highschool) Christmas present. I am now in my freshman year of college (Jan - 2007) studying for Mechanical Engineering. We were originally considering a Mercury Maverick or possibly a Mustang, but none of that ever materialized. Instead I saw the 240z in a classic car book. Some how I stubled upon this little gem with out knowing much about it, but I am so far, throughly impressed from what I hear. The Build Unfortunately this entire project has spanned across some 4-5 years now and most of the early work was not documented very well. That is okay though, since we didn't get much done in the early stages. I am really starting to gear up on this project though, so we shall see how it progresses. For part numbers and details always refer to the section, "The Tech". Driveline The engine is a 1994 Ford 5.0L HO V8 recieving a "Performer 302" intake manifold from Edlebrock with a 600cfm Holley aftermarket double pumper w/ mech secondaries ontop. Jetting is something like 64/70 or 64/73, I cannot remember. This will be backed by a Carter 8psi non regulated w/o return rotary vane fuel pump. The engine is positioned as far back and low as is practical in our opinion. The engine mount is a modified Alsil's mount. The headers are summit brand block huggers with ceramic coating. With my engine positioning this has required the rerouting of the steering shaft see "The Tech" for details. The transmission is standard fare T-5 with a .68 OD. This transmission was rebuilt. The R200 is from a 1985 N/A 300zx and has 3.7:1 open gears. I am planning on putting in a Powerbrute as soon as it arives. The driveshaft setup will be a hybridization of the Ford and 300zx shafts. 300zx Turbo CV's will be used leading to 1977 280z stub axles. The clutch is a completely custom affair. Basically it uses Wilwood components and is extremely easy to setup. The Wilwood master connects to 30" 3/16" hardline which adapts to 10" of SS hose which adapts to the Wilwood slave. The slave has had the end peg (non pulling end) removed and it is cut to the desired length and attached to the pulling end of the slave via a coupling. The open end of the slave is then closed using a standard 5/16" bolt around 1" long if I remember correctly. I cut a 3-1/2" long bolt down to the right size, which works fine too. The slave is self centered on the bellhousing flange by using the male self centering washer against the MDS filled flanged bearing. The other bearing attaches on the otherside to complete the setup. The bearings may need silicone to stay in place. To adjust the setup simply wrench on the coupling or nuts. Pictures will be added eventually. Suspension and Brakes The suspension has been switched out with Illumina 5-Way struts aswell as Modern-motorsports coilovers utilizing 200lb-in front springs and 225lb-in rear springs. The sway bars are Suspension Technique units. Complete urethane "Master kit" bushing kit. The brake system is 12.19X1.25" Wilwood rotors with forged Wilwood 4 piston calipers up front, paired to MM 11.4" solid disc 240sx brakes in the rear. The MC is from a 280zx and has a 15/16" bore, hopefully that is enough. A proportioning valve is planned to be implemented on the rear brake line. NOTE: In the pictures the Toyota 4X4 Vented setup is pictured, I am currently selling that off as I am going a different route. If you are interested, please PM me, it has never been used. Wheels This is a really tight fit as far as the front to back spacing. There is plenty of coilover clearance. The tires are just a large diameter. Plans and Goals The goal is to have a nice streetable 240z that not only looks good but is fast. There is a pretty big emphasis on weight savings, but with that I would like to have a nice interior. I would eventually like to have a custom interior, ZG flares, metalic paint, removed bumpers, and a subtle airdam and spoiler (depending on windtunnel tests). Far far off goals might include EFI and/or a crate motor. The Tech Engine 1. Alsil's Mount specs - REMEMBER TO GET THEM CHRIS!! 2. Black valve covers are from an 82-83 Mustang I believe. I sanded them down and spray painted them black using "Rust-O-Leum High Heat" paint. I then sanded the raised portions again to bring out the alluminum shine. NOTE: Hard work w/o power sander! 3. The belt system will either simply be, crank -> alternator -> crank, where the waterpump will be driven by the tension of the belt betweent he crank and alt, using a March adjustable alternator bracket (Jegs P/N 655-1465). If that does not work, then a late 80's Crown Vic water pump is said to flow the opposite direction of the Mustang pump. 4. Carter Fuel Pump (Summit P/N CRT-P4600HP) 100GPH... 8 psi max. 5. Block Hugger Headers (Summit P/N SUM-G9063-1). Be sure to check out the "Natural finish" version (Summit P/N SUM-G9063) aswell. It is significantly cheaper. 6. Fuel Pump block off plate (Summit P/N SUM-420004). Tranny Using 80's BW WC T-5 rated at 265lbft. The 90-93 T-5 is rated at 300lbft. Driveshaft Planned to be a Ford Mustang shaft cut and welded to a 300zx N/A shaft. Look for updates. Rearend 1. Precision Gear Powerbrute LSD (Reiderracing.com P/N LOM59-12) in an 85' 300zx 3.7:1 N/A case. 2. 1977 280z Stub Axles will be modified with Modern-motorsports.com companion flanges to accept CV's. 3. 1987-1989 300zxT CV Axle's. 4. Diff mount - STILL NEEDS TO BE DECIDED Clutch NOTE: CLUTCH IS A WORK IN PROGRESS MC WAS TOO SMALL! TRYING: WIL260-3380 Wilwood master cylinder (Pitstopusa.com P/N WIL260-1304) Wilwood slave cylinder(Pitstopusa.com P/N WIL260-1333) Self centering washer (McMaster P/N 91131A051) Nuts (McMaster P/N 94895A810) Coupling (McMaster P/N 90977A160) Flanged bearings (McMaster P/N 2706T24 and 6294K82), second goes on slave cylinder side. Adapters (Summit P/N AER-FBM2927 and AER-FBM2937) SS Line (Summit P/N EAR-64191910ERL) Generic 24-30" 3/16" hardline with 3/8"-24 ends. Generic brand silicone sealant. Generic 5/16"-24 Bolts. Suspension 1. Suspension Technique's sway bars (Summit P/N STQ-52095) 1" Front, 3/4" rear. 2. Urethane Bushings (MSA P/N 23-4100K) with urethane steering coupler. 3. Bumpsteer spacers for 15"+ wheels (MSA P/N 23-4186). 4. Modern-motorsports coilover kit (modern-motorsports.com) with 200F/225R spring rates. 5. Illumina struts (Ebay seller: Jdmwerks13). Steering Shaft 1. U-Joint (Pitstopusa.com P/N SWE401-50808). 2. Complete custom support - ADD SPECS CHRIS. Brakes 1. Lugs (Napa P/N 6412785) or equivalent. 2. Proportioning valve (Pitstopusa.com P/N ALL48025). 3. Wilwood incomplete brake package from JSK (http://www.autobrakeworks.com/datsun.htm) paired with 280z front hubs. Needs from http://www.pitstopusa.com/: (P/N WIL160-2894) (P/N WIL160-2895) (P/N WIL120-7429-X) Remember to specify R side. (P/N WIL120-7429-X) Remember to specify L side. (P/N ALL48112) (P/N EAR989545) (P/N AERFBM2511) (P/N HAWHB101M800) Wheels Rota Grid 16X8" +10 offset. Tires are BFG Gforce sport 245/50/16. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, etc feel free to PM me.