rudypoochris

Heh... you will soon find out that the parts that are worth money really aren't easy to get at. Atleast not in California. I go to the Pnp 3 to 4 times a month to see what I can see, sometimes you will get lucky 9/10 you won't. Im going to start pulling Mustang 5.0 T-5's though. To make it worth the trip you got to find out what is worth a bunch of money in not only Z cars but toher makes aswell. Otherwise you will find yourself disappointed when you realize there are 5 Z's maybe in the entire 1400 car lot of which 1/5 of them has anything you need, and it has already been picked. Okay that was a bit pessimistic, but it is true. Oh... And PnP gouges the hell out of you in Norcal it seems.

I see a fair amount of these suckers, I just might if someone really wants it.

350z...?

I find his writing at the bottom of the ad interesting: " COSMO witticism It's unwise to pay too much, but it's unwise to pay too little. When you pay too much you lose a little money, that's is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot. It can't be done. If you deal with the lower pricing seller, it's well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for a better service and product."

Thanks for the help guys. Let me see if I am understanding... SO the 300zx U-Joint at the differential side is the weak one which should be replaced with a Spicer 1310? Does that U-Joint just fit in no problem? Or does the flange need to be changed/modified. Is the tranny side U-Joint on the Ford T-5 driveshaft strong enough? Thanks!

Damn... I just saw a 4.11 200sx r200 in the JY near me. I can get you it for that price hehe. Imho it is too expensive. 3.7's and 3.9's are plentiful. 4.11 not so much, but still.

Zedd Findings Zfiberglass

Has anyone had experience with this muffler? It would be for a single 3" pipe.

I am doing a Ford 302 into a 240z. I have an 85 N/A 300zx R200 which I am putting a powerbrute into, the 85's drive shaft, and the Ford driveshaft. Basically I am wondering if it makes sense to have a shop cut the two shafts in half, or whatever the desired length is, and then weld them back up. Or is it better to simply have the driveshaft shop do it all themselves? I would imagine the first option is a bit cheaper, has anyone had strength issues going that route? On a side note... I noticed the 85 R200 N/A 300zx has a rectangular pattern imput flange... is that a weak spot? It doesn't look as beefy as the 300zxt's round flange at all... Thanks!

Did the TKO come stock in anything...?

I sort of like the sound it makes. I find alot of the mufflers tend to resonate too much for my taste and make too deep of a tone. Do you know what part number or item number that muffle is. I was thinkinging of a certain flowtech (Holley I believe) muffler otherwise. EDIT: Wow, on listening to that second one, I would have to add baffles or cones probably to keep that sound level in check.

Great! I am going to do something similar I think. But I am going to run dual 2.5" to single 3" or single 3.5" then into a muffler with no resonance. Not sure which muffler to choose yet. We shall see! Nice work!

Intresting! As far as knowing how to lead solder, I thought there was not much skill involved, or am I wrong? The basic idea is to clean the surface and then melt lead on correct. After the lead is spread one simply sands and files it down. Or did I just over simplify the process?

Solid flat tappet cam? Maybe Ford racing sells a complete kit... I bet your best bet is to source a rotating assembly from something like Eagle and then find heads, cam, and intake in a package from another company. Thats usually how it works out. But thats just me.

Okay well. I have skimmed the entire thread, and this is what I suggest: Search "Reaction Disk". I am surprised it took so long for anyone to write anything about this. When the reaction disk slips out of place your braking system becomes an on/off switch. If that is indeed what you are experiencing, which I believe it is? Than there will be instructions on how to fix it when you search. Hope that helps.

Which would be superior... this or lead solder?

Thanks!

Ah i see. Do you know if they are 10mm inwards towards the body or outwards towards the fender? I was assuming that the 280z hubs were the same for wheel mounting but offset the brake disc differently. Thanks for the heads up! It would be nice to gain some wheel clearance, so I am hoping...

Is there any difference between the front wheel surface positioning on 280z vs 240z hubs. Is the offset changed basically (not did Nissan specify different offset tires, but are the hubs themselves different)? Thanks!