rudypoochris

Wow, those are block huggers! With those I probably wouldn't have to move the steering shaft, oh well!

Could you link a photo possibly? Thanks!

Okay, this is weird. For some reason my original mount was something around 17.25" wide hole to hole, the block with mounts on was giving 16-7/8" max width with the mounts from a 69 Mustang i believe. So my brother and I had Mike make the holes closer together and had him lower it about an inch too at the same time because that was what our dimensions were telling us fit with what we were trying to do. In anycase we later noticed that we needed to cut down the center section of the mount by about an inch as well since we didn't really consider the center spacing. In anycase it works and the engine sits quite low, so I would say I am pretty happy.

It would be cool if I had put the Z's engine bay into SolidWorks before I put the engine in, then we could all use it on Hybridz. Different groups could imput different engines and that would have made my life alot easier. I might try this.

This might be a dumb question... but how is one going to bleed it? Detach the caliper and then retach???

When I finish I intend to make a thread on it detailing what I used and such. My build uses Alsil's mount but it is hacked up and reshaped a bit. Also my steering shaft is being relocated. We shall see. I'd love to read terry's write up!

Oh sorry I was thinking 240z for some reason. If it is a manual 280z it is 3.54 R200. The Ford small block will crack before you break it I would imagine.

Ah yes, you will need an "R200" differential that came in later Z cars. (All 240z's had R180's and a very rare few had R190/R192). Search R200. There is a sticky list saying what ratios there are and where they come from. The most common numbers are 3.54, 3.7, 3.9. Simply get one of those differentials, it's moustache bar, the axles, and maybe there are some other things (Search!) and put a Powerbrute in it (look for powerbrute groupbuy in this forum). There you go, you have an LSD. Rest of the searching is up to you!

I mean this diff has harder lock up than the Z31T. Not steeper ramps, sorry. I am 90+% sure and about 75+% sure that the axles are larger. I remember reading it somewhere on here very recently and then I checked an R32 GT-R diff ad on Ebay which stated similar things. I will look harder. I definately saw pictures of less angled ramps though aswell as a different shaped carrier then the standard Z31T.

LSD thread under term "Powerbrute" in group buy. About $450-500

They use a Tomei CLSD carrier which has steeper ramps then then the USA Z31T carrier. It might be worth looking into. Alas I ordered a powerbrute for low money and for me it is better just to go new. EDIT: I searched some here and apparently the splines on this (GTR) diff are too numerous or the shaft is too large a diameter. The 300zx TT shafts apparently work though. It is 12mm bolt.

Do you have a link? That is a good write up. Thanks!

Believe it is short nose. You should search. It has been covered alot.

Is there anyway to tell if it needs rebuilding? My U-Jpint has no play so I assumed it was good, is this not the case?

Does anyone know as to why the 94-95 mustangs were rated at 215hp instead of 225? I know they switched over to hyperutectic pistons and a different intake, but was power really lost? Or did Ford just rate them down to make the Cobras look better?

If it needs to be changed out, eventually I would probably just end up sourcing a U-Joint about the right size and welding to it. Or cut the splined part off of the original U-Joint to weld to a new one, but that gets tricky.

Thanks for the tip on welding, I did not know that. I suspect it should be okay though. The U-Joint has no provision for a screw to hold the shaft in. I think it was meant to be welded, I shall check on the sources website, it is not a Borgenson unit. I know and that piece costs $45 if you want it in 6" length. I ordered one anyway and it kept getting back ordered for about a month. Finally I canceled it and just went the mcmaster route and got this setup for much cheaper. No doubt it is not as professional looking and most likely heavier. The rack imput stub joint is the same. The blue shaft is the OEM steering shaft simply cut. There was no slack in the joint at the firewall or the rack so I decided to just leave it be.

Thanks! Solved this a while ago now. What I ordered was a 5/8" smooth to 5/8" smooth sealed U-joint from pitstopusa.com (#SWE401-50808). I am going to have the original steering shaft (in blue) cut and have new shaft (in orange) welded to the old shaft to make the approximate lengths shown above. Then the shaft ends will be welded into the U-Joint. The system will be supported by one rod end (McMaster P/N 3798K32) with an MDS-Nylon Filled bearing (MC P/N 6294K8) inserted, and fastened/glued in to the rod end. These nylon lock washers (MC P/N 90566A240) will be used in conjunction with washers (MC P/N 96659A112) the rod end will go straight through the frame rail.... provided there is nothing interfering underneath. Wish me luck, I shall post the results/modifications when done. NOTE: The rod end is meant for heavy duty lifting and such, because of this it is really large and heavy, not really an optimal setup, but it was cheap and the alternative lighter weight version seemed to be a custom piece.

Good info! It was never estimated that frontal area was around 7 sqft. That number was the CdA. Now it is seeming that it is nearer to 8-9. We shall see!

Nice. That is a really interesting write up!

Ya, but the 200ZXR which was definately a Japanese model has the same carrier as the USA Z31T, which leads me to believe the skyline is probably the same. It is possible it is not though.

Ding ding ding. You win. I can buy that, atleast for now.

Thanks for all the info guys but I think Johnc has it. Seems like no one realy knows. I am not asking about grip. I realize that there simply is more grip and I am not concerned why. I assume it probably has to do with a larger contact area having more ridges and such that will adhere to the road -> higher mu. I was simply talking about friction only. I was wondering if friction is affected. The only variable was tire width, thus weight does not change nor tire compound.