rudypoochris

Just wondering if anyone has made sense of why the Gnose lifts at the rear?

I think the tree may be the better choice... didn't even think about that. Then again... being stuck in a tree with a pissed off boar on the ground is almost worse... I can't use a pistol, I am 19 and CA requires you to be 21 I do believe. What kind of range does a 30-06 get. Is that a .306" bullet? Also what is the cheapest decent scoped rifle, or is the scope overkill? Thanks.

What are these fender vents you speak of? The same ones as on the blue car in testing? I was thinking about venting the underhood air under the fender but not cutting a vent and letting it find its way out on its own. Are you talking about a similar idea? EDIT: Just noticed a couple of post down that you are talking of the blue car. Regardless, does anyone think it a good idea to vent to under the fender with out cutting vents in the body. This would leave room for the air to escape only through the gap where the door starts and possibly into the wheel well.

So, my friends and I want to get into hunting wild boar. My friends grandfather has a pretty large property and a golf cart (which we could use to run from the boar if need be). The idea was to get a rifle and shoot it. The issue is, none of us know what gun to get, we all know some of the basics, but not enough. We plan on going to the shooting range to take a class type thing for begginers to learn about safety primarily. I do not want to spend to much money and I do not need any frills, just something basic. What kind of caliper do I need? The man at the gun store recommended 270+. What do you all think? I realize hunting boar is dangerous (I have done it before, but I was not shooting, only along for the ride) and I would prefer not to get gored, that being said I am only 155lbs and I don't want something that throws me into the bushes every time I fire it. There was a 410 at the stre used for $80 but that looked like it might break my back. So basically, rifle or shotgun? Caliber? Tips? Etc. Thanks!

If someone does know, could they please comment on whether or not the pressure off the back of the ring gear can supply adequate flow through an oil cooler?

LOL. I manually filed by hand for about 2 hours on the two fronts... Haven't driven it, but I did it. If I remember correctly the grids might clear the 240z front hubs, but I am not positive. I know they don't clear 280z.

Yes, .2-.4 might be a little bulbous. Close to 0 is a good size too. Depends really I would think on how you like your setup. I would think anything under -.4" in or over .4" would be less than ideal. It also depends alot on what series tires you are running. If you have a higher profile a little more or less doesn't hurt, lower profile would have less tolerance in either direction.

Just wondering... Why doesn't anyone use the gear itself to turn the fluid... or is there not enough pressure. I would imagine at speed the ring gear should be kicking a good amount of fluid out the back, if a hole was tapped there wouldn't the fluid flow?

I usually just do this: L = [(S/25.4)-(W+1)]/2 L is the length of the buldge over the edge of the rim lip in inches. S is the tire section width in mm (ie. 275mm) W is the width of the rim in inches (ie. 9") L would be up to -.5" for a super stretched look, +.75 for a large buldge. I think around .2-.4" is a optimal, but it depends who you ask. So for your 17X11: Front - L = [(245/25.4)-(11+1)]/2 L = -1.177" That is way too small imho. That means on either side the tire will be in 1.1" doubt the tires would even mount. Rear - L = [(275/25.4)-(11+1)]/2 L = -.59" Still a little small imho... might work. Would be pretty stretched. You need something like: .3 = [(x/25.4)-(11+1)]/2 so a 315-325mm would be nice on 11" rims. Thats my 2 cents. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

I just did. That seems to only refer to exhaust headers. I am wondering about the length of the system on a single exhaust setup from from valve back. Trying to figure out how to keep resonance from happening at driving RPMs.

Sorry to kick up an old thread but: Is that in inches or feet? Also, how would one work out the math for a single as there would be two lengths before the pipes joined. How does resonance work with say a 4000rpm and 8000rpm mix. 4000rpm gives 2.0625 unit length and 1.0315 units for 8000 rpm. Does that mean every multiple of length 1.0315 will resonate at 8,000 rpm? Only half the time at 4,000? Thanks!

Is there any benefit to running cooler? Ie. With a finned cover? Is there more consistency when the fluid is cooler or is there a danger of damaging parts when it is hot?

Is there resistance on the pedal when you push? If not maybe the bolt bolt that connects the pedal to the MC broke... Maybe the T/O broke (would be off). If there is resistance, how far can you move the pedal, the whole stroke?

Yes, sorry! Found it in a post on Zcar.com and thought I would add it here.

R160 List: Clutch-Pack LSD: 1985-1986 (production up to 3/86) XT 4WD is listed with a 3.70 LSD option (Subaru part # 7220 11000). 1986-1987 (production from 4/86-10/86) GL 4WD is listed with a 3.70 LSD option (Subaru part # 7220 11001). 1986-1991+ (production from 11/86) Loyale/GL 4WD is listed with a 3.70 LSD option (Subaru part # 7220 11002). 1988-1991 GL and XT-6 4WDs with single range transmissions are listed with a 3.90 LSD option (Subaru part # 22011 GA022).

Thanks all for the replies. Didn't think about the spacer. I ended up shimming the motor 3/8" up.

My harmonic balancer is touching the steering rack a bit when jacking the transmission up to the correct angles. Does anyone know how thick the steering rack metal is and if it can be ground down a bit? Thanks!

Hmm what is the stroke on that MC? I am setting mine up right now and a 3/4 bore "small master" wasn't anywhere near cutting it for the stock pivot points on a 72 240z. I am working with a 1-1/4 or 1-3/8" now. We shall see... I wanted the full travel a fox w/ T-5 would have so we measured my brothers and are matching it. Will tell on thursday.

For your wilwood setup, what are you using? I know the recommended 3/4" bore MC doesn't work out with the stock pivot points. I think I am using a 1-1/4" or something similar.

Oh wow. Good thing I didn't buy an R32 diff off Ebay!

I just decided about a month or two ago to use the JTR radiator. It is quite easy to mount taurus fans on, it is only $140, and brackets to mount to the car are available for $75.

I do believe 89% sure that the R32 uses the same 29 spline, not sure if that means ALL of the R32's. I believe it is a Tomei unit and looks a bit different then the Z31 diff. The R33 and the R34 are definately different splines though... I think the information is buried somewhere on this site.

Is replacing the bearings that big of a deal, how many miles are they typically good for?

Interesting, thanks for the pointer. At least I do not need to worry until 2009

Thanks for the tip! 1300rpm is such a weird RPM to sample at though. Not sure Ford ever really instended the engine to be worrying about much more then staying away from detonation at 1300rpm.