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CrayZ

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Posts posted by CrayZ

    JCI fittings

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    I got my AN fittings from Speedwaymotors.com.  They are lots cheaper than anywhere else I could find.  Used the push-on high pressure rubber hose.  2 years, no problems.  Plan to cut your lines about 1/4" longer than your measured needs-when the hose swells to go over the barbs, you lose some length, and you can't get this stuff back apart once assembled.

    I ended up going with A/N fittings becuase of availability of the odd ball parts I needed and the ability to make adjustments on the fly from home. When I built my diesel race truck a couple years back I used push lock fittings with Parker hoses. It's been about 3 years and everything works great still. I think a fuel system utilizing JIC related equipment would be the best route to go for simple systems.

    JCI fittings

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    It's JIC, not JCI. They are physically identical, but are held to slightly lower thread tolerances and are made of plated steel or stainless steel depending. AN fittings have tighter thread tolerances, and are made of anodized aluminum.

     

    That's the only differences as explained to me by the local Parker Hydraulic distributor.

     

    That and JIC fittings are not HORRIBLY expensive, like AN fittings...nor are they anodized in garish red and blue.

     

    That said...anyone who did the job in AN fittings has already documented this for you. They just spent more money and their fuel lines don't weigh as much as yours will.

    Thank you for the spelling correction. Again i am aware of the differences between the two i just wanted to see fuel system setups with JIC fittings. I could'nt find any when i was searching.

    JCI fittings

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted · Edited by CrayZ

    "Your previous post insinuated that JCI fittings where some way inferior to AN becuase of their inability to withstand vibration?"

     

    No, I stated an engineering FACT, which I gave a passing reference to, and which I won't dig up again since you are convinced of the answer.

     

    It's your car, do what he hell you want. Don't call documented engineering and design differences "opinion", though.

     

     

    Documented engineering and design?? please provide a source stating that A/N fittings can withstand FAR greater vibration and abuse as you claim.. Remember now it has to be engineering documentation.

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by CrayZ

    Just measured mine and it is 14" no clue on the brand and I'm clueless what type of radiator I have also.. I do know the radiator is about 23-24" long and about 18" tall. The actual dimensions of the fin surface is more like 21.5" wide though. I REALLY want to find a shroud for it and see if it makes any difference. I still need to spend some time to figure out my wiring too.. This thing is wired to come on and stay on as soon as your turn the key

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I'll have to look but I think the one I got is 1600-1700 cfm. From what I've read the fan postition and shrouding is pretty important. There was an article in Rods and Customs (it think) a couple months ago about cooling I'll look tonight and see if its online

     

    Edit 2070 cfm at 19 amps. This fan is pretty 'thick' though, 3.5", I'm pretty sure I will have enough room though.

    Yeah I can imagine. Mine does not have a shroud. I wonder what kind of a difference if any at all mounting the fan behind the radiator and adding a shroud would make?

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I got a single 16" SPAL curved blade fan. I have some 20ga stainless sheet left over from work that I'm going to use to make a shroud. The radiator actually fits pretty well, I thought it was going to be too wide and it is a little tall but the core is fully exposed through the core support. Speedway sells an AFCO radiator that looks pretty much the same as the one I got but has mounting tabs on the bottom and sides for only $20 more. If I would have seen it I would have bought it. They are both double pass radiators. I am going to at least get it mocked up this weekend and I will take some pics to show the fit.

    I need to measure my fan and see how big it is.. In my mind a dual fan is needed but I suppose a big single will work too. What kind of CFM is needed to keep these motors cool?

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I cut the only non rusted piece of my car out (spare tire well) to put duals on!

    Got my speedway motors radiator yesterday. Welds look better than I expected and it looks like it will fit between the subframe rails with just enough room for some rubber gasket material to act as an insulator.As long as it doesn't leak it's not bad for $180.

    That radiator looks damn good. What fan setup are you going to run?

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Forgot your pumps were on the side. In fact, you should probably move them lower (or closer to) the outlet height. Walbro's are a pusher, not a puller style.  I've seen people have problems with their pump too high and fuel starvation / burning up pumps. 

     

    Mine (single) is mounted on the front of the tank, about an inch above the bottom, just in line with the outlet of the tank.  I have no issues until i get LOW on fuel.

    never thought about the fuel pump thing.. I can always move them lower is suppose

    R230 Swap And Axle Conversion How to with Part Numbers.

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Can we clarify this info a little further with regard to TTT's complete rear kit? I think they're unclear what, in addition to their $2.6k kit, is required to complete the conversion. Suppose I could just ask them

     

    FYI - seems MM's site is down, like their domain expired.

     

     

    I don't think Ross is making stuff anymore. last i heard he was very ill. I would give gabriel a call and ask him he is SUPER nice, informative and you will actually get your parts when your suppose to.

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by CrayZ

    Thanks sunny. The VLSD was already installed when I bought the car. However I have taken it down and apart multiple times since I've owned the car and replaced everything south of the transmission. Once you figure out the correct spacing for the axles it's a breeze. With all the correct parts IE. TTT LCA's/diff mount/mustache bar/dog bone& drop mounts/ MM axles etc. everything just slides right in. After I get the TTT diff mount in this weekend I have to try and losen up the E-brake cable as my wheels are locked up after the silvermine/mustang rear caliper swap (not a whole lot of room for adjustment, hope I installed the cable correctly.) Than its a full 3" dual system and trying to figure out how I'm going to fit these massive magnaflow mufflers under the car.

     

    F2E1B7E3-610B-4262-977C-8B47B9B3EEAC-323

    BC541CDC-C751-43F1-A512-92CE153D32F0-503

    Progress report and advice

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Yeah no worries with the leaking Dave. The 10mm input side to the pump doesn't leak at all. I had more trouble chasing leaks from the male-female fittings. I guess I can just go nuts with the silicone boots and build my own setup. I didn't see a "kit" on the JTR website though.. Am I missing something? Sunny what degree bend is that steel tube you have?

    Diff mount

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by CrayZ

    I wonder if this would be strong enough? i just  found this on TTT website. im not sure if its for the long nose, short nose etc.. it doesnt say

    post-9861-0-67454500-1373828784_thumb.jpg

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