zuhow

I would say to you " it comes apart a lot easier than it goes back together". What I mean by that is, don't touch anything you don't have to. Trust me on that. I started this project as a young man of 20ish. I just turned 51. I still haven't driven it.

>I think you're mixing metric and English units. Totally possible, and I would be happy to declare that I am, in fact, an idiot! Standby for results.... **edit** Yes boys and girls, I AM an idiot. rossman, send me your next bar tab- It's on me....

Ugh. This project has been on hold for a very long time, and now I'm getting somewhere, or so I thought. This is such an ugly issue that I'd like some input from you guys. After getting the engine started and getting ready for a test drive, I decided to check the valve lash. I've got about half of what I should have (0.016" measured v. 0.030" spec). I'm all the way down on the post- the lock nut is tight to the post. I've got the standard 0.120" pads in there. What I think happened is that the machine shop set the valves too deep. I was smart enough to not trust them, and I did a wipe test on each and every rocker. What they had sent back to me would have definitely self destructed. I've run the engine maybe 10h between break in and assorted testing. All the lobes and rockers look fine. So my question is "now what?" and I fear the answer is that I'm pulling that head and sending it out for a rework. Your comments are appreciated.

I stuffed a bore scope down there and it all looks good

I did pull the valve cover, everything is in order. I doubt that the tensioner has fallen out of place, but maybe it's possible. Do you think that air in the cooling system could be cavitating in the water pump? It does have that 'pumping marbles' sound to it. It'll see if I can get a good clip of it. So far the recordings don't seem to capture the sound well. Thanks

Hey there, I've been here a long time. Somehow 21 turned into 51 in the blink of an eye. But now I've got this project going somewhere again and I'd like some input from you guys. I just started this engine up after it's rebuild- it's been sitting a long time. It fires right up, and runs great. It's just that it seems to make more noise from the timing chain area that I'm comfortable with. The water pump turns freely with no slop, as does the alternator. Is this normal and I'm just paranoid? Any ideas/advice? Should I just run it and hope for the best? There's no sort of grinding or bad mechanical sounds- it's just uncomfortably loud.

280zx turbo motor with stock turbo $300 around Baltimore/DC https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/columbia-1982-nissan-datsun-280zx-turbo/6938347603.html

Best craislist ad ever (datsun related too) Click it before it's gone http://easternshore.craigslist.org/for/3020885291.html copied just in case: Jack Russel/datsun mixed - $50 (Chestertown, MD) I have a 2 1/2 year old Jack russel/ Datsun mix. ALL shots are up to date and he is neutered. Great dog just have to get rid of him. Would like to recieve a $50 re-homing fee. He will come with new crate, food and all paperwork from the vet. His name is boo-boo..... call or text ONLY (redacted) . ask for mike If you want to see him just call and i can send you a pic through text or you can come here to see.... Thanks

I've got new Victoria British fenders, L & R that you can cut up or use. PM me, I'll let 'em go cheap.

I have a MSA Stage 3 cam , new with cam card for $135 shipped

I have the 81 pulley and you can have the pick up sensor as well. I ship it to you all for $55 as well.

I love this little grizzley press that I have, and you really can't beat the price. http://grizzley.com/products/5-Speed-Bench-Top-Radial-Drill-Press/G7945

I did this a while back- get (2) 25' rolls of the stainless. I looked at the AN fittings and it's just way too much cash- it think it was over a $100 in just adapters. That stainless is hard- I quit using the tubing bender because you almost can't crush that tube. I ended up making single flares on the tubing ends because there was no way to double flare the tubing- I was working at an aerospace company at the time and even their production tubing flare machine wouldn't make the double flare.

For a shingle roof, you need minimum 3' fall per 12'. With wet snow you might have some problems, but I've got 4/12 and haven't had any problems. You should have a permit, but really that depends on your neighbors. I'd look into a standing seam metal roof if I were you. It won't be cheap, but much cheaper than new engineeringed trusses and a what not.

I second the Jeff Hartman book- How to tune and Modify EMS

are you kidding me? I signed up for my local 'freecycle' (freecycle.org)- it's the greatest thing since 2 ply TP. I had some one give me a n/a 280zx once!! also I can post things I dont want and SOMEONE COMES TO GET IT- no more trips to the dump. I highly recommend it. everyone here should check it out

....i dont have anything to measure mm...... a simple desk ruler will work: 240 mm =9.45" 225 mm= 8.86"

I think 1 is a NO if I remember correctly, the N42 doesn't have an opening for the mechanical fuel pump that runs off the cam gear eccentric.

I'm REALLY not a fan of site with flash intros and sound....please make it as user friendly as possible. good luck!

I like it. the problems I see are: 1) I don't think it will fit 2) If it does fit, I think the turbo will need some support. That moment arm from the cylinder head surface to the turbo surface looks to be way too long- I'm guessing it's about 16" as shown. 3) I'm thinking it's better to group 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Scavaging isn't going to be such a big factor before the turbo. 4) you're going to lose a lot of heat in those long tubes, so you'll need some insulation 5) that's going to be expensive to make

since no one else has chimmed in, i'll give you my 2 cents. IMHO, it's certainly not what you want. Will it be ok? Most likely. The corrosion is only a couple of microns thick, and will probably be removed by the wiping action of the rings. That said, you'd be better off if it didn't happen. Just get it as clean as you can- then clean it again. Mechanical stuff is suprisingly tough- I once work at a steel mill that had (and still has) a 1898 reciprocating air compressor in use- and that thing ran 24/7 with less than ideal upkeep. If it were mine, I'd be PO'ed at myself and then I'd put it together as best as possible and run with it. What are your other options- not much I'm afraid to say. You MIGHT be able to hone it to remove it, but that will open up your bores- might not be so bad, but I dont know if you're willing to take that risk. Have you mic'd the bores and do you know what your clearances are? You could assemble it and crank it around by hand a few dozen time to see if that will polish the rust off the bores and then dissasemble it and clean and reassemble (this time keep ALL water away- use laquer thinner or mineral spirits). I think you'll be OK, but damn, that sucks......I know how you feel.

yeah just one from my expierence, bring more money

considering I've been saying "it'll be done in 6 months" for about 10 years now- I'm guessing about 4,000 or roughly 2 man-years

Check out applied industrial- I've had good luck with odd ball stuff there. There's a store not too far from you. look for fittings here, find out if they have whaty you need http://www.applied.com/catalog/ma/catalog.do?e=2&c=899 near you at: Richmond Location # 0275 2263 Dabney Rd Richmond, VA 23230-3343 PH: (804) 727-4200 FAX: (804) 727-4201 Email: sc0275@applied.com

I'm biased, but I say move out here to the east coast. Personally, I'm a huge fan of living on the Chesapeake Bay. Bastaad's got it pretty well summed up (but truth be told I REALLY dislike VA, mostly because I can't help but associate it with Northern VA/ DC metro area). Southern VA is nice. My recommendation is you come over and check out around Annapolis Maryland. If you don't mind a bit of commute, you can score a nice set up- just avoid the DC surrounding areas (Prince Georges and Montgomery Counties come to mind as places best left to others) Check out Anne Arundel County or Calvert County. Western MD (Frederick or Washington counties) is more of the mountain/ rural setting, Annapolis is a drinking town with a sailing problem. As far as what you’re looking for: 1. climate - Gotta admit- you get just enough summer to make you wish for winter, and just enough winter to remind you why you hate it. 2. traffic- Avoid the DC beltway and you’re golden 3. Lower latitude - check 4. House at least 1500 sq ft. -no problem 5. Garage an absolute must, separate shop even better- easy 6. Road racing / autox venues within a couple hours tow- check 7. $300K or less – depending- in the historic districts, this is where condos start, but you can easily score a 1500 sqft house on 1/2+ acre for this if you don’t mind a 30 min drive 8. Safe community- atleast where I live, kids leave their toys at the community park indefinetly, and there’s zero crime (unless you count HS kids drinking as crime) 9. Land??? Search on www.realtor.com to get some idea what your looking at (land=cash, but you knew that already!) try zip code 21012- that’s where I live, but you won’t find 5+ acres there for anything short of a princely sum Her priorities: 1. commuting distance to major city – 30 min to DC, 30 min to Baltimore, plus easy access to Philly and NYC 2. Close to medical care –THIS is the place to get sick or injured if you must, SEVERAL world class hospitals, NIH and all that. PLUS lots of people would want (and can afford) your wife’s dietician services.