zuhow

here's my "sure fire toast for the best man": 1) take a piece of paper with you 2) begin by introducing yourself 3) pull the paper out of your pocket, look forlornly at it, and say something to the effect of "I worked for 3 weeks on this and now looking at it- it seems simply inadequate" put the paper away in your pocket or set it down on the table- look like you're just going to wing it 4) say "I want to tell you a personal story- a funny little anecdote about GROOM and/or BRIDE" - everyone that knows you will say "oh s*&t, this in gonna be good!" -everyone that doenst will listen intently then say "but that's the problem- there isn't one story that would show his/her 'LIST SEVERAL GOOD QUALITIES HERE' -and besides any story I did tell you will likely get he/she and I both in trouble"- wait for laughter. 5) Thank the audience for coming to celebrate the bride and groom and wishing the bride and groom well 6) Thank the bride and groom for allowing you to be part of their new life together 7) say " ladies and gentlemen, please raise your glasses and join me in a Toast to the health, weath and hapiness of Mr and Mrs. 'John J Groom' " 8) shut up, drink up, and sit down. Remember the the key here is to "be sincere, be brief, be seated". the whole this should take maybe 2 minutes

close...in the graph the acceleration is infinite (vertical line) not zero (horizontal line). you got it that the acceleration is the slope of the velocity v. time graph , which is zero most of the time, but during the change it's infinite. make sense?

you're totally right in what you're saying, but that step change in velocity (going instantly from, say, 80 to 85 mph) is not a 5mph per hour acceleration- it's infinite (change in velocity/change in time, when change in time =0). that's the issue. If you had a step change in velocity of 5 mph every hour on the hour, you would certainly make it faster than if you had a constant acceleration of 5 mph/h- but that's not what the problem asked (or tried to ask). BTW The real time is closer to 23h- I think I calculated 22.7 or so.

a train that accelerates 5mph instantly has an infinite acceleration. The number given is 5 mph per hour so that's a constant acceleration. s=v_0*t + 1/2*a*t^2 3000= 75t+ (1/2)*5* t^2 solve for t ==> ~22 hours

I agree that's pretty crappy wording. It seems to me that the 5 mph per hour is a constant acceleration and the intial speed is 75 mph. simple "plug and chug" solution otherwise

I wouldn't reuse flywheel bolts. They are stressed pretty heavily. Suck it up and get some new ones rather than risk it is my opinion.

I suggest you just burn the money you were planning to spend on that turbo- atleast that way you will get to see the flames. I wouldn't recommend an off brand turbo, search here and you'll see how some were just glued together.

iskone try this: open up the "properties" window (button looks like a finger pointing at a table) or you can use (ctrl+1) to open properties as well. click on the viewport border to select it under the "misc" tab in "properties" is a box that says "standard scale" it will most likely be set to "custom" click on where it says 'custom' (or whatever it's set to ) and from the drop down choices select something like '10:1' depending on the paper size you have set. you will (most likely) have to set the dimensions for that scale- type 'dimstyle' at the command line- push enter and when the window pops up choose 'modify' click on the 'primary units' tab amd on the left about half way down clik in 'scale factor' and set that to whatever you choose for ' standard scale' above- if you choose 10:1 set it to 10, 4:1 set it to 4, if you choose some thing like 1/4"= 1' -0" you need to set it to (12 * x ) where whatever you choose was 1/x"= 1'-0". click the box that says "apply to layout dimensions only" select OK at the bottom, then choose "set current' and you should be good to go.... hope that helps paperspace is your friend!

Ok, I know one of you guys can answer this. I've got a 1999 cirrus that came with a clifford alarm/security system. Basically it's a little red light and a key that you have to plug into a socket before the car will start. So anyway, the "alarm key" sorta looks like a little headphone jack- the problem is that the receptor socket has broken of the circuit board. One pin is totally broken off, and one is loose (could be resoldered). What I really want is this effing "feature" gone! Does anybody know what system this is? (thanks for the worthless website Clifford!) maybe I can find an owners manual.... Or does anyone know how to remove it? Right now I have exposed the circuit board and i can run the contacts together to get it to work, but you just know this is going to stop working at the most inconvenient time possible. I'm scared that if I just take it off, my car will no longer start- and I really need to get to work in the morning. Well fellows- give me some advice here

I carried the whole bottom end from the car to the work bench (10 meters or so) without too much trouble, so you should have no problem carrying the block alone. I'd say it's 100lbs or so (45 kg).

Trevor, I think you want to refer to MIL- TFD-4AC. Something I am frequently telling contractors and maunfacturing: Make It Like- The Farking Drawing- 4 A Change!

I suspect it's a typo because that is switched with the price for a set of 4 rods for the U20 directly above, I think somebody didn't have enough coffee when they made that table of prices...

Whenever I get one of these letters, this is what I send back- feel free to copy and use whenever the need arises: << The Best Chain Letter Ever > ****************************************** > > Hello, my name is Candy and I suffer from the > guilt of not forwarding 50 > billion chain letters sent to me by people > who actually believe that if you send them on, a > poor 6-year-old girl in > Arkansas with a breast on her forehead will be > able to raise enough money to > have it removed before her redneck parents sell > her to a traveling freak show. > > Do you honestly believe that Bill Gates is going > to give you, and everyone > to whom you send "his" email $1000? > > How stupid are we? "Ooooh, looky here! > > If I scroll down this page and make a wish, I'll > get laid by every good > looking model in the magazine!" > What a bunch of bullshit. > > Maybe the evil chain letter leprechauns will > come into my house and sodomize > me in my sleep for not continuing a chain that > was started by Peter in 5 AD and brought to this > country by midget pilgrims > on the Mayflower. Screw them. > > If you're going to forward something, at least > send me something mildly amusing. I've seen all > the "send this to 10 of your > closest friends, and this poor, wretched excuse > for a human being will > somehow receive a nickel from some omniscient > being" forwards about 90 times. > I don't care! > > Show a little intelligence and think about what > you're actually contributing > to by sending out these forwards. > Chances are, it's your own unpopularity. > > The point being? If you get some chain letter > that's threatening to leave > you shagless or luckless for the rest of your > life, delete it. If it's > funny, send it on. Don't piss people off by > making them feel guilty about a > leper in Botswana with no teeth who has been > tied to the *** of a dead > elephant for 27 years and whose only salvation > is the 5 cents per letter > he'll receive if you forward this email. > > Now forward this to everyone you know. > Otherwise, tomorrow morning your > underwear will turn carnivorous and will consume > your genitals. > > Have a nice day. >>

I don't recommend you try to plead "no contest" or more correctly "nolo contende" (spelling may be off)- what that means in legal speak is that you admit the State has enough evidence to convict you- but you do not admit to the crime. It wont come off well and you'll get hammered....... I recommend you plead "not guilty". Wear your Sunday best, be polite and have a good - ie BELIEVEABLE -story of why you are not guilty. I'd say something to the effect of " it's an old car and it needed repair (clutch sticking- shifter not working properly, something like that)- by the way your Honor, here is the reciept and a description of the repairs that were done- I'm terrribly sorry for this unfortuante incident..." If you dont have a believable story... plead "guilty" and give an explaination that shows suitable remorse and promises to never, ever do it again and you'll most likey get PBJ- probation before judgement, where if you're well behaved (or dont get caught!!) for a certian period of time (usually 12 -18 months) the charges against you will be dismissed. I'd use the same lines as above, with paperwork to prove that you fixed, or had fixed, something that caused you to do whatever you did. You'll still pay the fine and court costs, though, so bring your checkbook!!! Just remeber the key is "presentation" be suitably remorseful, and respectfull of the court (and don't over do the Sir, Your Honor BS!) and you'll be fine(d)!

What doc said isn't true in MD. It's an "at will employment" state. Either party can terminate the employment for any (or no) reason at anytime. You can not fire someone for taking "family leave" or leave in some limted other circumstances, but you have no right to unpaid leave to go to a wedding or whatnot. My point is just that if they would fire her over 2 days, there isnt a strong relationship there and I would lose any sleep over ending it. Mike Kellys point is well taken that it's not good to get fired, so I say just be up front about it and decide if those 2 days are worth finding another job or if there is a possible work around that makes everybody happy enough. By all means, don't burn any bridges, as they say, be careful, the toes you step on today may be attached to the *** you have to kiss tomorrow.

I'm going through something similar. I just got married on the 8th. I asked if I could take some unpaid time off for my honeymoon because I've used all my (meager) vacation time up. they said they didn't think it would be a problem, that's before I told them that I want to take 5 weeks off. they were a little less understanding then. I suggested 2 times that would work for me an let them pick (nov or march). Eventually we settled on MArch and it seems all will be good. My advice is simple- just remeber that work is a component of your life and not that your life is a component of work. You'll be able to find another job (she will) hopefully you wont get married again! Try to be as accomadating as possile, but get what you want! and dont think twice about living your life!!!!!

You'll not be seeing "aircars" anytime soon. I used to work on electric vehicle batteries in the mid to late '90s. We made the battery for the "EPIC" mini van by chrylser. EPIC- that's "Electric Powered Interurban Commuter" only it had to be changed to "Electric Powered INTRAurban Commuter" because it only went 80 miles or so on a (5hr) charge. When you compress air, you lose A LOT of energy. At best you can get 12% efficiency from the compression, basically if you want 1 hp of air delivered, you need a 10 hp motor driving the compressor. The rest of the energy is lost to heat in the air. You are far, far better off burning gas or diesel. I agree it's a novell concept, but compressed air is way worse than batteries as an energy storage device.

My definition of hot rodding is clear and concise: make it fast and make it yourself basically the exact opposite of the prowler that was (is) mildly popular, I call that a "costume".

By all means, use a billet crank. I think you will spend way too much money trying to cast one. If you want to learn about casting in general check out E funda, here's the link to the sand casting page http://www.efunda.com/processes/metal_processing/sand_casting_intro.cfm typically, you will spend a lot of money on the post casting machine work. oh, and the casting itself wont be cheap. Things like the oil passages that require long drilled holes , called gun drilling, are pricey. good luck!

I shipped an L28T from Kansas to Baltimore for under $500 with USF/Dugan(KA) USF/Holland(MD). Pick it up at the terminal and you will cut the price in half. Also ASK for a discount, usually they will give you some break, but rest assured you won't get it if you dont ask.

Thanks SleeperZ, You've pointed out to me a completely new way of considering pipe flow. I'm willing to buy that a restriction is an orifice always now that i know what you mean by OE sweet, I love this place

SleeperZ, becareful on saying that pressure drop through a piping system is like flow through an orifice. Agreed that you will have a pressure drop in the intake system, however small (or large), but flow through an orifice is a very specific thing and different than the resulting pressure drop from frictional losses in the flow path. In the example (of pyros formula) I dont care what the VE is, and I'm assuming that it stays the same from one boost condition to the other (I know it's not true but if the difference from one boost level to the other is 'small' it's close enough to call it even). I don't follow you on "the orifice effect" can you explain to me what you mean? Opening up a system doesnt make it flow better because of a lack of (or larger) orifice, it flows better because there is less turbulance in the flow stream eating up pressure as friction. You can think of it like an orifice is a very specific type of restriction, while you can always call an orifice a restriction, you can't necessarily call restriction an orifice. No doubt that a better flowing engine makes more power. And that was the whole point of "the formula" it just assumes that "it's all good" to give you an idea of what you can expect. Just don't try to apply it to far away from where you're starting out, or it will waaaay off.

Sorry Sleeper Z, I cant read! I see what you mean about the doubling the pressure, you're right. the sealed part confused me, I see what you mean. forget my first comment in the previous post

No, this is wrong. In a sealed vessel, the density is constant. INDEPENDENT of temperature and pressure. it's SEALED, so no mass goes in or out, and the volume remains constant (i assume you meant a ridig vessel) so the density, which is mass/volume is constant because the mass and volume are constant. boost pressure has nothing whatsoever to do with flow through an orifice. flow through an orifice is an EXPANSION process Volumetric effiency is a totally different beast. I agree that, in practice, doubling the boost pressure doesnt double the mass flow of air, but that's a fine point that isn't really important. if you double the density (however you do it) you WILL double the mass flow for a give volumetric flow rate. If you're flowing 500cfm and the denisty is 0.08 lb/ft^3 and you change to a density of 0.16lb/ft^3 and keep the flow of 500cfm, you will flow twice as many lbs of air.

So I've been following this thread and I've gotta make a couple of comments: Pyros formula is a good formula, if used correctly. I think we're trying to take it beyond it's limits here though. I use it frequently. It IS a really good SWAG (Scientific Wild A$$ Guess) if you dont strech it too far. Basically, it works damn good if you only project a little ways from your starting point. Look at it this way, say my house was worth $100k last year and $150k this year. I can project that my house will be worth (150/100)*150=225K. probably pretty good guesstimate. The problem comes if you try to strech this 30 or 40 years out- you'll see my house is now (projected) to be worth more than the output of many nations!!! That's whats going on here. Bastaad, you were right on the money when you guessed a turbo w/o the turbo would put out about 100hp. If you take "the formula" and apply it in reverse (ie divide by the ratio of pressures instead of multiply) you'll come up with 98whp (at the wheels). check it out: assume 145 whp for l28t bone stock the ratio is (14.7+7)/14.7=1.48 so 145/1.48=98hp still following me? good, now the problem comes when you say I'm gonna put 20 psi boost on this engine: ratio= 14.7+20/14.7=2.36 2.36*98 (base l28T "naked" power output)=231whp I agreee this number is low, as evidenced by Bastaads hard data of 240ish hp at 14psi. That said, this formula is great if you say "i've got a a given engine and I want to estimate the power output if I turbo it (a little bit)" (you have to assume here that you dont change anything, leave the CR, cam lift timing, etc the same) You can say, which is Pyro's point- and he's totally right, that if I double the air mass flow (ie 15 psi boost, or 2x the density of normal atmosphere) I can expect (about) twice the power output. Just keep in mind that you're now projecting "years" ahead like in the house example and it's bound to be off quite a bit. If you stick to "just a little bit" around your starting point, you're good to go. But it's just a SWAG, not any sort of gospel truth or theoretical limit. It's just a simple way of saying, "if I consume 20% more air I'll get about 20% more power" which is totally legimate. Just remeber, all bets are off when you start talking about 'large' changes....... Oh, and Bastaad, thanks for keeping my math skills sharp, you always give me something to crunch over a bit (but my employer is pissed that you're killing my productivity!)