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jerryb

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Posts posted by jerryb

  1. Im trying to understand why a plug would just stop working. My KA24e-T was running fine one night. The next evening it ran like crap with horrible idle and back firing.

     

    In an effort to find out why, I randomly pulled wire #4....with no difference. !No combustion in #4.

     

    So I followed with Automechanics 101...check for spark...check injectors and compression. All was fine. SOooooo on recommendation I threw in new plugs as the old one appeared a bit oily and wet ...no damage. The car purrs!

     

    Can someone explain to me why this happens...what stops a spark plug from sparkin:confused: If I understand why perhaps I can prevent it.

  2. A stub axle?

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100232&highlight=stub+axle

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132063&highlight=stub+axle

     

    Or just place a WTB posting for a stub axle, Im sure you will get a few responses.

     

    Hello everyone! I am having some trouble locating a rear hub assembly for my 1974 260z. I called myself checking all the major part suppliers and z car specialty stores and I am having no luck at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have enclosed a pic with the items I need circled in red.a9d3_1.jpg
  3. I agree. I used these connectors for my build and any where I wanted a but of extra assurance that everything will hold...I lightly soldered.

     

    I didnt have the correct crimping tool so I used small needle nose pliers and reading specs to help me see. Its amazing how tight the crimps were! But a dab of solder gave me a warm a fuzzy!

     

    I think for a hobby driven car that will probably see limited use and mileage you are giving up nothing by soldering over a crimp. Just use the right shrink tubing to act as a strain relief. I generally "crimp" where I can, but if I don't have the tool and I can't make a perfect crimp, I'll solder. I've never had a wire fatigue fail on me. Besides, we aren't at 30,000 feet.
  4. ~$0.85 per litre Canadian...

     

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  5. Very nice, any progress reports?

    RK

     

    Fired it up late last week and it works perfectly! My buddy layed a few beads on SS and they looked perfect.....looked like he used that particular welder all his life.

     

    Then I tried.........Let's just put it this way...I need a lot more torch time!

    :cry2::cry2: :cry2::cry2:

     

    Im sure I will get the hang of it but its obvious that practice make perfect so I will probably go back to his scrap bin Saturday morning and practice some more more and more.

     

    It not as easy as he makes it appear! LOL:cry2:

  6. I still prefer the current 350 convertible over either the 350 or 370 hard top. It has much more distinct and exclusive styling. I wonder what a ragtop 370 will look like????...or if its even in the stars?

     

    On the negative side....the current 350 ragtop has a bit more chassis flex than it should!

     

    edit........Just noticed this link from below...The 370 as shown in these shots is sharp! In particular I like the front facia...much better than the sucker face 350! (mind you not keen on the teeth) The subtle cues from the 240 also fit in ...as do the larger appearing fender flares. Interior seems too much the same, I hope the materials are improved. For instance.....The doors panels in my 350 are cheapo.

  7. Here is one for DIY tunability... http://nistune.com/

     

    I have not used it but am considering this upgrade for my 89 240SX KA24ET. I understand its very good. I dont believe they have a board for your 280Z but you may want to check in case an option is in the works. They have a forum.

     

    While on this topic...no hyjack intended..can anyone confirm if Tunerpro and Nistune is based on the same program? It sure looks like it from the screenshots. www.Tunerpro.net

  8. More than its worth it. Just get the RB25... its built for more power output. Even the tranny is more robust.

     

    The RB25 will cost you less in the long run...for the same "higher" power output. And the RB25s have dropped price big time compared to when I picked up my RB20. If I had to do it again I would do the RB25.

  9. I love my RB20 as it does everything I expected.....but go with the RB25 if its power potential you want. My RB20 puts out the power I want while being very smooth and drivable. I went RB20 for the same reason you did....I wanted to play with a turbo. And Im having a great time.

     

    But if you are comparing it to a SBC crate motor...its an easy win for the V8! More power, cheaper parts, more support...blablabla.....lots of advantages.

     

    For a high $ to HP ratio ..SBC is where its at. Oh ya....I dont think $2100 will be enough for a quality RB install. Maybe enough for a stock drop in for 215HP.

  10. Start in the RB subforum...lots of good info there, a lot of it is for droping the RB20 into a 240 but it will more than get you on your way. If you have questions after searching through this area...feel free to ask.

     

    BTW...go the RB25. Your car is heavy and would benefit greatly from the extra cubes. Hey ...did you know that a JDM version of your car originaly came with a RB20? it was called the ZR200 ...hint.... :search:

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=85

     

     

     

    hey guys.

     

    well im thinking on doing a rb20 swap in my 84 z31. and i was just seeing what all do i need to do the swap? and where are some good places to get parts?

     

     

    Thanks

  11. Stock ECU....No worries I understand. Its a lapping car that will be running full out when on the track...Im not concerned. I run my RB20DET the same way. Mind you with a Power FC and MAF...not MAP. It runs like a dream on the street.

     

    As far as the RB BOV....I did crush the top and it did tighten the spring but that didnt help. I was about to give it one more whack when I thought Id try to blow into the vacuum nipple to see what would happen. I heard an air hiss, so I flipped it around to see where it was comming from and found a small hole..... 1/16" or less.....right beside the large one. Obviously the RB BOV is not designed to run atmospheric and has the small hole for balance or something?? Bottom line its a non stop leak when connected to run open.

     

    I put a small piece of electrical tape over this hole, bolted it up and started up the car...it idles perfectly. I will TIG weld this hole shut and start working on the next problem.

     

    FYI...I removed every single emission device from the KA....attached a Z31 turbo on a log manifold.... hot piped it to the intake ...with a stock ECU......and so far the only issue(s) was a dead battery and this BOV deal. And they said it couldnt be done....mind you it hasnt run under load yet. :D

     

    Thanx for your replies!

     

    Are you using an aftermarket engine management system? If not, is the stock ECU MAP-based?

    quote]

  12. I just completed a turbo build on a stock KA24E. I had a heck of a time starting it up...wouldnt hold idle..... and tracked the problem down to the RB20/DSM style BOV.

     

    The BOV is vented to atmosphere and I discovered that if I cover up the vent/opening my RPMs go up and idles fine. In fact I can then reduce idle and it purrs.

     

    Im assuming the BOV is stuck open and drawing air. Is there anything I can due to the BOV to make it seal or is it trash and I just need to source a new "used" one?

     

    All comments appreciated....its an econo/cheapo build and Im doing my best to keep it that way! :D

     

    On that note.......Anyone have a spare kicking around ..if so please give me a shout.

     

    Thanx

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