sweetride2go

Here is a pic that I happend to have. I'll take more pictures next time I'm in the shop. The top hose is easier to see, and it is really simple for my setup, being almost level with the thermostat housing, and roughly 21" with 1-1/2" ends and only needed one bend(and it cleared the powersteering resivor! ha). The bottom was the tricky one, needing several bends and being something like 16" and 1-1/2 on the rad side by almost 2" on the pump.

Thanks for your imput guys.

Thanks Dave! Sorry Jay, I looked all over for the reciepts but havn't come across them so I could get the part numbers. I got both of them at Napa. The top one is a direct fit, well at least for my aplication, it was the bottom one that was tricky. Napa has a nice book they let me use which I found easy to navigate, showing the hoses inlet/outlet diameters, a picture of the hose, and then they were sorted by length. It didn't take long for me to find some that looked close, and I ended up taking four home and returning the other two. My biggest porblem was findind part numbers that they had in stock. I wish I had written down the hose numbers just in case at some point I would need to replace them, then I wouldn't have to go through the whole fiasco again. I might have a picture showing the hoses better if you want. I have been keeping my reciepts, so if I find them I'll post the part numbers here. Cheers Ryan~

You might check the little filter screen in the suction side of the pump first. I've seen those pretty nasty before, and I could only imagine that they must inhibit the flow somewhat. Of course, those might just be on the 280's, I am not sure... Cheers Ryan~

I got these turbo's with the engine(vg30dett), but here is my immediate concern. If you look closely at the fallowing pictures, you can see some pitting on the leading edge of the compressor wheels. Are these ok? Salvagable? or will I not know completly till I tear the turbos down? Thanks Ryan~

I got the turbo's with the engine, but here is my immediate concern. If you look closely at the fallowing pictures, you can see some pitting on the leading edge of the compressor wheels. Are these ok? Salvagable? or will I not know completly till I tear the turbos down? Cheers Ryan~

I don't have the slip with me so I can't check part numbers, but I'm pretty confident that that is the same radiator. Mine fits in my in my early '74 260 really snug, with only about a 1/8" on either side of the tanks to the frame rails. However, my frame rails have been modified by a previous owner and are narrower than stock. I am using the JTR style lower radiator mount with some rubber pads and then my own top mount with rubber pads. It is a nice fit though, I think. Cheers Ryan~

I got my Griffin back today(fixed now, there was a crack in the lower tank on one side) and installed, again.... I started the engine too, and it's snorty, lol, I don't remember getting that hairy of a cam. Anyhow, you can't see much of the radiator from under the mount, but it's there. I'm also using a Taurus fan wich also fits quite nicely. Cheers Ryan~

I was dinking around today, actually I was working on the Z car, and decided to play with the TT project a tad. So I grabbed the engine mounts, the truck and the TT mounts and compared them. Neither set matches really as far as the bolt pattern to the block. Well, there is two holes in the truck mounts that match the TT mounts for both sides. I put them on with two of the holes on each mount, on each side. I need to decided if I am goin to do some fabrication, or try and modify the existing truck mounts to fit the TT block. Here is the comparison of the two passanger side mounts. The truck one is the iron/rusty one, and the other, shiny aluminium one is for the 300zx. This is the truck mount, drivers side, and the two holes that match up (top right and bottom right(wich can't be seen)). Also, for this side it seems that some minor triming of the mount to clear the oil feed line. Here is the truck mount on the driver's side. Same deal, two holes match, and the other two are close but not close enough. Alternator might be in the way but I'm not sure yet... A couple things to note: The TT mounts are thicker, being aluminium, so the bolts for them will not work. Wish I had kept the block bolts from the pickup. Also I am thinking of modifying the truck mounts by milling out the holes in the appropiate directions in hope to get at least three holes, if not all four. I'm still not geared up for this project, so progress will be slow and updates may be rare. But in either case, I will be sure to post my progress and findings here. Cheers Ryan~

Auto Meter sells a couple hall-effect (square wave) sensors, wich are 3 wire, 16 pulses per revolution senders. 2.0 to 16V peak (square wave), 3 wire: pn-5291 standard 7/8-18 thread. pn-5292 Ford, plug in. ~or, like GM with only 2 wire senders, 2.0 to 120V peak to peak (sine wave), 2 wire The data was pulled right from the 'instruction sheet' that came with my 5" speedometer. Cheers ryan~

I have the same radiator. The fit is nice even though a little fabrication is required. We put a similar Griffin in my brothers Z28, and it has performed great. I however, must have the bad luck, I just filled mine last night, and it must have flunked cooling school, it gave away all the coolant to the floor. My radiator has a crack in the lower corner. Make sure you check it right out of the box! Cheers Ryan~

Taurus fans are great, and easily avialable. Don't forget, sealing the shroud up to the radiator will also help a great deal. I somehow got a single speed Taurus fan, and it's completly identical to the other one I have wich is the 2 speed. Cheers Ryan~

Gear ratio's for GM 6-speeds, even the ZF. Six Speed Manual Transmissions, 1980 - 2008 GM Rear Wheel Drive Transmissions RPO -Trans Name -First -Second -Third -Fourth -Fifth -Sixth M10 -Tremec 85mm -3.010 -2.07 -1.43 -1.00 -0.840 -0.570 M12 -Tremec T56 -2.970 -2.070 -1.430 -1.000 -0.840 -0.570 ML6 -ZF S6-650 -5.790 -3.310 -2.100 -1.310 -1.000 -0.720 ML9 -ZF S6-40 -2.640 -1.800 -1.290 -1.000 -0.750 -0.490 MM6 -Tremec T56 -2.660 -1.780 -1.300 -1.000 -0.740 -0.500 MZ6 -Tremec 85mm -2.970 -2.070 -1.430 -1.000 -0.710 -0.570 Link - http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/GM/gm_transmissions.htm Also, '93-'97 T56 have the 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .74, .50. '93 and ealier 2.97:1, 2.07:1, 1.43:1, 1.00:1, 0.80:1, 0.62:1, and 3.28:1 reverse I think these are correct. Someone chime in if they are different.

t-56 tunnel seal boot, link - http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87837&highlight=%27t-56+shifter+boot%27 Best I could find on that subject anyhow...

Fluid capacity, appx 4 quarts.

Bellhousing kit for SBC gen-I. I am personally using this kit, seem's well made, even if a bit pricy at $600. Link- http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/id2.html

Reverse lockout modification, link- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71642&highlight=%22t-56+information%22

Electrical connector part numbers... VSS pigtail (12101899) reverse lockout pigtail (12101857) reverse light pigtail (12085485) link- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101514&highlight=%27t-56+plugs%27

Man, I have had a heck of a time trying to find information for the t-56, and I know it's here, I've seen it before, gah... I've tried so many search types, and I have either been getting little to no results, or I'll get a bunch of LS1 conversions. I was hoping that maybe we could create a sticky with anything you might need to know, like; dimensions, fluid capacity, preferred fluid types, inner shifter boots that fit the Z's, bellhousings/conversion kits, electrical plug part #'s, etc, and anything else that may seem valuable. Hope fully this would help anyone else looking for similar information. What I'm looking for is the preferred fluid. I was lookin at Amsoil, but it seems Royal Purple makes a good fluid too. Is there one in peticular that works well with the t-56? Thanks Ryan~

(hopefully that title will cover any searches for people) A couple years ago I decided that the old KA24 just wasn't cutting it for me anymore, and I wanted to upgrade my D21 Hardbody and install a VG30DETT. I started with a lot of deliberation and research with my fellow Nissan buddies on how to do the swap, and if it could be done. Not much help was available from other Nissan forums, with most saying that it could not be done, that the engine doesn’t fit, or that it would be way to expensive. I know this has been done in some 2wd pickups, and I have seen a couple in 510’s. To compound the problem my truck is a 4x4, and to keep it that way meant it was going to be a bit more complicated than just an engine and transmission swap. My first assumption was that since the D21’s came with a VG30E they would share bell housings with the VG30DETT. Well, my friends and I came to the conclusion this in fact will not work, due to the DETT starter bolting on the side of the bell housing. They had to do this on the Z32’s because that’s where the hairdryers live. The next idea was the possibility of making a hybrid transmission by swapping the front cases, from the Z32 transmission to the to the D21 transmission/transfer case. This came about after finding out that both vehicles had the same transmission code, being a FS5R30A. However, we soon found out that my KA powered pickup did not use the R30A, and only the V6 model pickups had the R30A’s. After a lot of searching, and a failed attempt to pull one from a V6 Pathfinder at a junkyard on a half off day, I finally came across someone who had one in a rolled V6 pickup, which I purchases for $50 bucks. Sweet! We were thinking that the two transmissions would share bell housings, or front cases since they have the same transmission codes, but even with our research we weren’t sure. No one would give us a straight answer, so we set out to just do it and see. This was going to be my ‘drop dead’ point, the point where the amount of fabrication to make it work was more than I cared to give, or at least without really thinking it over… So if the cases came together without a hitch, then the rest of the fabrication would be a breeze. Good news is that the cases did come together without any problems. The bad part is I vary well could be eating that ‘fabrication’ comment later on, haha… After yanking the engine/transmission/transfer case (we used an excavator for a cherry picker) out of my newly acquired 70k mile D21, we hauled it off to meet its cousin from the Z32. By the way, the transmission/transfer case assembly on the pickups weighs a lot!!! We could just barely unload it with two guys. We also thought it smart to take the engine mounts from the pickup. These will most likely come in handy later on. So I got right to it, and split the case on the Z32 transmission. Here is a great write up on tearing one down here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119041 I didn’t take much for pictures on the Z32 transmission tear down, see the thread above. The transmission was in excellent shape! I got this engine and transmission out of a ‘91 300zx TT, with less than 90k on it, after some guy in Portland wrecked his car in ‘94 I think. Holy boat anchor batman! This behemoth is the D21 V6 transmission and transfer case assembly(on it's side for some reason at that moment...). Here is a shot of the Z32 transmission gear set after the front case was removed. This is the D21 gear set with the front case removed. No that’s not a gear oil slick on our driveway! Lol… Here is the important part for us, the mating point of the two transmissions where they will bolt to the ‘mid plate‘. Here you can see that the two surfaces are identical. Z32 bell on the left, D21 on right. Note: in first pic the front cover is still on(case on left(z32)). On the inside of the bell housing is the front plate bearing retainers and throw out bearing support, or whatever its called. Again, these were the same, minus some damage from the removal process, haha… And finally the hybrid D21/Z32 transmission/transfer case!!! Now I just have to split it again and re-gasket it all. So, that was the biggest obstacle and this is just the beginning, as my pickup at the moment is still my daily driver until I get the Z done. I will keep this updated at the next point, which looks most likely like changing gaskets on the engine and overhauling the turbo’s. since the Z is still in the works it will most likely be a couple months before I can start dumping money into the Hardbody. Cheers Ryan~

Here is how they look in 'a' dash, and I even spent a few munites wiring up the lights to show how well they work in the dark, woohoo. I will narate along the way. Here is the gauges installed in the dash. Blast! Stupid reflections! This one has less reflection, but is blurry, hmm.... A closer look at the big gauges. Notice the lil 'tick' marks show up much better after I ground the ridge out of the tapered rings in side of the OEM cups (see post #20, pics 7, 8, 9). I also installed LED's for turnsignals and as a high beam indicator. There was a bit of an "oops" with these, but I'll get to that later on... Close shot of the small gauges, the ones that I have made the cups for. Please take note of a few things here. There is only two gauges; haha, thats because Datsun's only come with two gauge pods and one clock. Stupid clock, never works anyways, so ya, I need another gauge pod cup to finish my install, off to the junk yard. Also, notice that I ground out the 'cross bar' on the OEM part of the gauge on the left, and I not only took out the cross bar but I also ground out a portion of the top for the gauge on the right. Later on, I realized that I can get away with just removing the cross bar, wich means less work, all three Procomps that I have will fit in the given area without removing the upper OEM part like the said gauge on the left. Hmm, I also apparently didnt bother to center the gauges in the cups, the right one is a bit crooked... Here is the same, just at another angle. I could really use new lenses..... Hahaha, here comes my 'oops'. You may notice that my LED's seem to be lit, but they are not on at all. So, tomarrow means that I will have to take them apart, again, and seal up the LED's from the light emitted from the bulbs inside. Yay. . . This is totally dark, no lights on inside the house. These also have those lil green condoms on the bulbs wich is giving the backlighting a greenish tint. They are backlighting well, if not a bit to bright. The little gagues by themselvs. Again you can see the difference in the modifications I made to the OEM part of the cups. I will make them all the same when I rob another set of gauge pods out of another Z ata friends house. I am going to make them all like the one on the left, wich should also clear up the 'halo' effect I'm getting on the right. From the back, you can see they pretty much mount up just like the factory units. However, I have found that the black straps on the back of the gauge pods are not all quite the same. So I had to drill the holes for the straps in slightly different locations on the blue cups. At any rate the black straps in the dash are vary flexable. Oh ya, some of my monkey wiring for the lights, haha... Alright, the big gauges, from the back. Notice the white, that is factory autometer housing with the lip on the front trimmed off. They actually fit so snug in there I doubted wether or not I even needed screws. Before I drilled for screws, I marked for the holes, and then double checked that the screws wouldn't contact the gauge face. This one is almost the same as above. Again, just really showing the mounting screws holding the two cups together. They are just 1/2" stainless phillips sheetmetal screws. I really thought the big gauges were going to be the hardest to do, but in the end they were in fact quite the opposite. As some others have said, the hardest part is cutting into a $200 gauge. I also have a fuel gauge, but unfortunatly, no more spots in my dash to mount it. So I think this one is going to stay intact and mounted elsewhere, probabily near the radio. I think that is it for this post. In assembling, I did notice some small discrepancies in both Datsun stuff and my own. These will be fowarded to my machineist. But this set will work fine for me. Sorry for the huuuuuge post. Time for bed. Cheers Ryan~

I think we used something similar, if not the same. We also used Strange Engineering struts. I don't know if that kit would be heavy enough for street use? Someone else will have to chime on that. I wasn't around when the suspension was fabricated, but I do have some pictures. Here are a couple pics in case they might help. Sorry, those were the best images of the front suspension I could find. Hope that helps. =) Cheers Ryan~

I have done two conversions. One with the JTR kit, so to speak, and one with my own engine mounts and such. My first was with a 327, that I had rebuilt and I had thought I was going to be able to get this done kind of cheap, same as you. In the end, however, I had spent over $3000, and even though I used the JTR method, I made all of my own parts via the blueprints in the JTR book. Everything adds up, nuts, bolts, hoses, engine accessories, fuel pump, all the lil BS things that I didn't think of in the beginning is what suprised me in the end. I would also say that I spent half of that freshening up the 327 and having the 700r4 rebuilt though. So, I would still encourage you to go foward with this project, it's not super difficult, especially if you are starting with a clean and unmolested car. You are a local guy, if you have the chance, you should come out to the Datsun show in Canby, June 13-14. There will be some of every type of modified Z's there. Cheers ryan~

Look in Summit Racing, I know they have universal powersteering pump mounts that mount low on the block, utulizing the ooold two bolt motor mounts holes on the front corners of the block. Here is how mine sets. I'm using a GM type II pump (lower right) and a remote resivor(just to the right of the pump). I don't remember, but Summit or Zoops makes the bracket. I havn't plumbed them in yet however... Hope that helps... Cheers Ryan~

I'm still tinkering with them a bit. I painted mine white on the inside, hoping to help reflect light, and I tried them out yesterday. They backlight great, and even with those lil green condoms on the lights! With the green they look really close to OEM. Unfortunatly none of you guys are close, but in a month there is a really good Datsun show in Canby OR, in June. I will bring down a couple pieces to show some people, so if you guys know of anyone in the Portland area and want a better idea what they look like, have them meet me there. The Canby show is about the only time of the year that I get to meet fellow HybridZ members. I almost always see RTZ (Ron Tyler) and BRAAP (Paul) there each year it seems... I'll try and get pics of them in the dark. Oh! and just FYI, they also fit a 2-5/8" Stewart Warner gauge, electric 90* sweep. I just happened to have one laying around.. Pharaoh, I'm doing research on the injection molding, but some have said that it is fairly expensive to get set up, initially, with the dies and tooling. I'll keep you updated where this goes... Cheers Ryan~