sweetride2go

Hey, running the cherry picker is serious business and a position to be held with the utmost respect, like county workers and their 'people alignment poles' that keep them upright while on the job. Looks good Aaron! If you end up needing a high torque mini starter let me know. It is free-99 but needs a set of gears. Cheers Ryan~

Oil pans! I started on cleaning up the oil pans today. Yes, I have two, one from the Z32TT and one from a 4x4 D21. Recently I have found a couple other people doing a similar swap, but they are doing swaps into 2wd trucks, which may or may not give them benefits in regards to oil pan clearances. I, however, am swapping into a 4x4. What this means is that I have a big ol freekn differential living right about where the sump should be for the Z32 pan. Some people may decided to do a solid axle swap(SAS) to gain clearance, but I like the IFS and how it handles on the street in comparison to a solid axle, that and this truck spends most of it's time on the road. If I was going to wheel this regularly I would most likely swap axles. What this boils down to basically is that I will have to do some modifications(ie: welding, trimming, etc.) to whichever pan I decided on. What I am doing here is making that decision. Which pan to use... Here are both pans side by side, looking from the rear. Truck(4x4 D21) pan on left, car(Z32TT) pan on right. Obviously you can see different sump setups, and the drainback tubes and such for the TT pan. I checked the truck pan on the TT engine block, the bold pattern is a match, the mains appear to be a match(I have yet to verify), and the dipstick location is in the same place. This is both pans from the top/front, truck on the right, car on the left. You can see a large depression in the truck pan in the center/left of the pan. This I am pretty sure to be clearance for the front differential. There are a few things I will not be able to verify until I can test fit the engine into the engine bay, it will be interesting to see how much clearance I really have. That, and the 4x4 truck bodies sit about 2" higher than their 2wd counterparts, so this gives me a little room to play with when I get around to fabricating motor mounts. Also, I am afraid that one of the drain back lines for the turbo may be in the way of the differential. We will see... From the front, truck on the right, car on the left. This is a comparison shot for the height/depth of the pans, and to see how similar the front main/sealing part of the pan. One thing to note that I didn't get a pic of is the interior of the pans. The Z32 pan is better designed, with better baffling and some like directional windage type things in the bottom. The sumps are also different, but I couldn't say which one is better there. One last thing for this update; I got the crank back from polishing! It came out nice, looks like new. I had a hell of a time getting the timing gear off the crank and ended up having to cut it off, so one more part to buy. I hope it's not expensive... Cheers Ryan~

Yes, they do have a removable bell housing. In my project I opted to use the Weir kit instead of other methods of getting a T-56 onto a Gen-I SBC. The Weir bell replaces the factory unit. Cheers Ryan~

Yes, the hatch/hood struts are a consideration, but for the time being I am just trying to get it functional. I still have all my original components, so I could always revert back to OEM. And I will honestly say that I don't think that all the work is worth it. Ryan~

After doing a bunch of research, I think I have decided to do some cleaning up on the engine, which involves eliminating a ton of vacuum lines and other devices that are not needed, and/or do not hurt/hinder performance on a stock ECU. As a note, I am not required to go through emissions where I live, so even though the truck is a '93 and engine a '91, all I have to worry about is the engine running properly. Here is a list of the mods that I am considering. If anything seems like it would hinder stock ECU parameters, let me know. This VG is quite different from anything that I have worked on previously, and is a constant learning experience. Throttle Body Coolant Hose Delete/Bypass: This one is said to not affect performance either way, but it does get rid of a bundle of lines that are under the intake, in which removes the possibility for coolant leaks there as well. The AIV's: Nissan removed them after '92, and since they were mounted on the car and not the engine, I don't have them(they were mounted on the fenders in the engine compartment), and that's where I will leave it, lol. EGR: Again, I don't have to go through emissions, and some of the components were on the fender of the original car. Also, after yanking the EGR valve and tubes to the intake, this seems to free up a bit of space around the back and sides of the engine, and more space on this engine is always nice! PRVR: The Pressure Regulator Vacuum Relief (PRVR), which until yesterday had no clue of its existence or what it might do, appears to be on the engine, but I don't remember seeing one on mine, so ya, if it can go, and simplify things, then so be it... That is it for now. Here is a great read for anyone in the Z32 realm, which includes a lot of the above with pictures, http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/197490.html Ryan~

Finally!!! Some progress! Well, that's all in your point of view I guess. So I finally got the engine on a engine stand and started getting it torn down. I would like to point out that this engine has a lot of BS on the intake, and the fuel lines were probably the most stubborn part to remove of all things. I got a EGR block off kit, so that is going in the "parts to throw away at the end" bin. Things so far look pretty good. The plugs looked good, there is still cross hatching in the cylinders, now I just have to pop off the mains and inspect/replace the bearings. Then modify the oil pan to fit comfortable next to a differential, and tweak the motor mounts, and so much more.... One dirty engine! And who would have thought after sitting for yeeeears that there would still be water in the block! Cheers Ryan~

Ya, I have thought of the ill effects of the rear hinged hood, and I am trying vary hard to keep the above mentioned from happening. *knocks on wood* lol Anyways, here are some more of the promised pictures. From idea, to paper, to design. What I now refer to the evolution of design. It's interesting how much things change between the first sketches to final product. Here is some of the initial trimming done to the firewall/cowl area. I used masking tape so I could measure and write on the car in order to get the hinges in the proper locations. This is the trimming done to the hood. This proved to be quite challenging, trying to keep the plane at which the hinges will mount level with each other, this keeps them from binding through their range of motion. I spend a lot of time with a straight edge tack welding the mounting plates in, grinding them out, re-tacking. The other problem was the difference between the thin Datsun metal and the 1/4" mounting plates I used. This required TIG welding in order to maintain proper penetration. TIG welding finished, and half the hinges mounted. The other half mounted on the firewall... So, there it is, beginning to end, and still in development... More or less, there is still a bit of sealing up to do, painting, etc. I'll post the latches when I figure them out. Cheers Ryan~

I had some friend that wanted me to make it open up from the side. I was like, 'eh, no...' lol

I went as far as getting all the paperwork once. There is a lot of rules to fallow, being your vehicle, and a fee. But it looks fun! Oh, it's pretty technical cause you have a time you need to come in by and you get docked points if your are early or late. Good luck though if you do decide to do it. Also, I talked to a guy at Blue Lake last year with a V8 Z, and he said that he did some hill climbs near Cornillous Pass I think? I would like to find more info on that if they are doin that again this year. Cheers Ryan~

I'll start off in this first sentence by stating that these are not going to work. Well, not in the long run anyways. But they don't call it research and development for no reason... So in a nutshell I wanted the hood to open like a 'normal' car. I originally thought by mounting the hinges part way towards the center of the hood(ie: 10.5" from both sides) I could clear the cowl. It does not. But with tweaks in the adjustment, the hood will open and clear enough for any regular maintenance to be done. I built these because I needed a set of hinges and I didn't want to spend the extra time designing a set of scissor hinges that is probably the correct setup, and would give me my cowl clearance. A couple things to note on this is that there is a fair amount of trimming for this, and the firewall flexes easily when the hood is open. In order to get the clearance I do have, I had to mount the hood/hinge a little high, which is visible in the fallowing photos. Also, the hood feels quite hefty from the front while lifting it up, since there is no air or spring assists like on a Z31/S30's. Overall, they work. However, I am already in the process of thinking up new designs. And, I am currently also working on a latching mechanism for the front of the hood. Ya that would probably be good, haha... You can see the hinges here, and how high the hood ended up being in order to get a functional range of motion. This is how it appears from the cockpit. It does leave a subtle 'cowl hood' appearance, except it travels the whole width of the hood. And I don't know if my hood is tweaked or if they are all like that, but I found it odd that the hood lines up in the corners and is higher in the center area... I have some more photos and such that I will post in the next couple days. Well, there it is if anyone is interisted. Failed fabrication on Hood Hinges version 1.0 =) Cheers Ryan~

Or maybe I could use something like this? http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=114 Otherwise I guess I could wire in the Nissan VSS to the ECU and just drive it without a speedo? lol, no......

I'm doing a VG30dett swap ('91), but the trans I am using doesn't have electronic speedo pikcup. Do I need a VSS signal for the engine to run properly with the factory ECU? If so, and I install a VSS into the transmission, my next problem is the truck is equipped with a mechanical speedometer. Could I run the VSS signal to an electronic Autometer speedo and then piggyback the signal to the ECU that way? Thanks Ryan~

Here is a great write up on how to install the big 5" gauges. It's pretty easy with the proper amount of concentration and a few tools. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/63713-mounting-autometer-5-tachometer-like-stock/ The only thing I did different was grind the lip out of the black insert and repaint it. Cheers Ryan~

This thread should be a sticky shouldn't it? Ryan~

It's a PITA, but ya, what John said. ^^^

I like the look of the old supra wheels. I have even been looking for set so I could put junk tires on for when I do stupid stuff, haha. ryan~

It makes sense on a big and bulky 4x4 trail rig, especially when you are rubbing up against rocks, trees, and never exceed 55mph. I think the bedliner would ruin the aesthetics of the car, and possibly the aerodynamics, and also the prementioned weight gain. Also, a friend of mine did it to a 4x4, and it faded later horribly... Cheers Ryan~

I had a rocker stud come out once, but never broke one... Mine just started tapping like mad and then it went quiet and simultaneously dropped a cylinder. I was relieved to find such an easy fix when i pulled the valve cover!

Oh, I've seen these Defi gauges before, but I haven't researched them. They look pretty cool, I like how they black out when off.

Aaron, if you end up looking for the vortec heads, they are not that hard to find, but the problem that we have found around here with used vortec heads is cracks on the exhaust valve seats. So if you do look for those, try and find them yourself, or get them from someone that will swap out bad ones until you get a usable set. Just some FYI. Cheers Ryan~

Eh, you could always put a hallow blower case on it, ha... But ya, someone had said that to me once, "if you wanted a blower sound you should have installed a blower". That being said, most of the time at car shows and what not, I can still tell the difference between a set of gears and a blower/charger. I however love the sound they make, as long as they are on someone elses engine. Cheers Ryan~

That was awesome! I think some of those guys drove better than some of the current racers!

I haven't gotten the lines fabricated for the power steering at the moment, so for the time being I am just running the rack with no power assist, which is kind of a drag, heh... As for the headers, it looks like the distance is 4-1/4 inches, give or take a bit. My header gaskets are also quite thick, like 3/16"! When/if you order from Rewarder they will give you an option of how big you want the collector flange to be, and weather you want it in steel or ceramic coated. I think they also had a stainless set available for some more $$$. But ya, hope that helps. Cheers Ryan~

I am running Rewarder headers. The quality seems to be really good, nothing has flaked off, they have really thick flanges, and they weren't priced to bad either. I believe they stick out from the block a bit more than the usual 1-5/8 because of the larger primary diameters. I will try and get a measurement from off the side of the head/block to the outside of the bends on the header. I can't really help you out on the other two as my car no longer has a stock rack, nor JTR mounts. I made my own motor mounts, but the engine is in the JTR position, for the most part(in hindsight the engine needs go to the passenger side almost 1/2inch, but it's to late now). I also have made a new steering shaft to clear the headers, but I have installed a Subaru power steering rack, so that complicated my steering shaft since the pinion for the rack comes out in a different area. Here is part of my steering shaft and the header clearance. This is kind of a fuzzy shot of the steering/clearance in regards to the header. Cheers Ryan~

Haha, I agree with Hoov. The flasher makes plenty of noise, and the high beams are pretty noticeable, either that or someone will flash you letting you know that your high beams are on. So, to throw in another .02, and if I were to do it again, I wouldn't bother with the indicators. That, and they were kind of a PITA to install... Cheers Ryan~