sweetride2go

A year or so ago, I got my Z running again, and this time I installed the Subaru rack and have been driving it since without the power steering hooked up. Yesterday I finished the plumbing and took it for a quick drive, which was nice since the steering was a bit heavy being a power rack without the power, haha. It is plumbed to a GM Type-II pump, and I am using Royal Purple ATF since that's what the Subaru manual calls for(Dexron III ATF). The resivor is close to the pump, and the whole system took just under a quart. My concern is that after a five minute drive the power steering system gets so hot that I cant touch it. What could I do to lower temps? My belt may be a bit tight, could that be a problem? Should I plumb in a oil cooler? Could the ATF be to viscous for the GM pump? Thanks Ryan~

"ya I wont turn down the boost, I got the 65lb injectors for 600+hp and the speed pro full sequential computer, I was thinking about a monster turbo because I'm tired of how unrelaible the blower is, always throwin belts, blowin up, but I already have it and a turbo setup would cost me to much$$$. I like the blower when it works, the sound is crazy, it was so loud it sounded like a airplane, people would trip out when I rolled by and thats what I liked, I'm just gonna get some stickier tires, I would be happy if I could get it to hook in 3rd." "So every time I have driven it something goes wrong, this time racing chuck again the D-1 that I thought was so bad ass blew up on me with probably less than 20 miles WHAT THE F----K I'm going to fly to kansaass where the make these things and ring somebody neck to get out my frustrations. I dont know why this happened,my setup is perfect, I've talked to them numerous time and made sure I'm doing everything right.My advice dont ever buy a blower, take the 3 grand and invest in the motor and you will probably make just as much power with less heat less things to blow up,they sound cool look cool and sometimes make your car go very fast,but for me has been a bunch of problems, from blowing up 2 blowers and one engine, I wish I never bought one, but now I'm far to deep to turn back now, I guess I'll box up the D-1 and send it back to kansas with one of my dogs turds in the box. $2250 for 20 miles, not worth it, Luckily it is fairly easy for me to take it out,as I have done it so many times, but if I had a late model camaro 93-up I would have certainly shot myself by now as you can't even see the blower, or even half the motor. I guess I'll update when I talk to the morons at ATI, They better be very nice and understanding, as I'd hate to have to buy a plane ticket!!!" http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/412-71-240-w-stroked-383-lt1-and-procharger-d1/page__st__40 Page 3, a couple more on the above. Cheers Ryan~

If you read Darius's ealier threads, he discusses his charger failures(2) and other routs he might have taken in hindsight. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, cause he ended up with a great car, and you would too most likly. Just some things to consider is all. Cheers Ryan~

It's looking good and sounds great John. Great work!

I stumbled across some things for the Z31 guys! I don't have one though so I don't know much about it, but thought I would post my findings. Cheers Ryan Gutted/Ported factory plenum http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=8745&id=106598619381496 Adjustable Camber Plates http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=8862&id=106598619381496

If anyone would like to see these in person and is in the northwest, I will be at the Canby Datsun show (http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88302-2010-datsun-driving-canby-fun/page__p__872925__fromsearch__1entry872925)this Saturday(assuming the weather holds) and Sunday, the 12th and 13th of June. Just look for my car in my profile pic, it's purple but looks black in anything other than direct sunlight. Cheers Ryan~

I have oil pickups for a VG30, one is from a D21 the other from a Z32. The D21 pickup fits my application but has a smaller pikcup. The Z32 pickup is larger but has a section where it is flattened into a "D" shape to clear the pan better. So I am curious if I could use the d21 oil pickup even though it is smaller, depending on how much flow loss there might be in comparison to the D section of the bigger pickup. Z32 oil pickup D - .730" OD OD - .868" ID - .750" D21 oil pickup OD - .750" ID - .650" I want to know how much the D section of the larger pipe will flow in comparison to the smaller one wich is consistently round. Could someone help me with that? Thanks Ryan~

You could get a harness and computer from Street and Performance. Of course it will be $$$ but the harness will be trimmed down and the ecu modified for you needs a bit. page 62 http://www.hotrodlane.cc/09%20catalog/sp2010/index.html Cheers Ryan

This is the one I got in the kit, only a few years ago. Only one line, out of the top. I wish this had a remote bleed screw. It works flawlessly so far, just the initial bleed was a pain.

Strotter, did you use the hyd. throwout supplied in the Weir kit? Mine was a PITA to bleed, and after that some of the air came out just in driving. I noticed some of the other hyd. throwouts available have a bleed screw on them, which I think would have made the job a lot easier. Ryan~

I have a T56 in my Z right now with a Gen I SBC, but in hindsight, I would run a T5. The T5 is cheaper and easier to come by, you won't need any 'special' parts, and if you break it, there is still a bunch more available and of course, upgradeable options too. The other aspect with the T56 is that it is so long legged. I really can't use 6th gear unless I'm above 75mph ish. Of course that is with the 3.55 R200 in the rear, so I am currently in the hunt for a 3.90 or there about. I am also using the Wier bellhousing. Good luck Ryan~

Do you have a picture? I am just curious as to what they look like...

Hey grumpy, you have been a great source of knowledge here for me before. But now I have a problem trying to fine tune my 4150 holley(Proform) on my SBC Z car. I went to your other site and searched around and fallowed links, and that gave me a few things to try but so far no luck. The engine is a 383 with a lumpy hyd. roller, unfortunately I don't remember the specs on the cam. The car has two hesitations when I accelerate, one with the inital movement of the throttle and another a couple seconds later. It doesn't stall, just kinda hesitates, accelerates, and then accelerates more without any more throttle input. Sometimes it will pop back through the carb. The car was initially dyno tuned and we had things pretty close, but in our last adjustments(on the floor) we made things worse, which is where I am now. Also the 4 corner screws are uneven, set up by the shop that way. The primary screws are roughly 1.5 turns and the secondary's are at .5 turns. My best guess is accelerator pump nozzles(31) and/or cam(black cam), and maybe the air bleed jets(? don't know if that's what they are called) near the choke flap? Thanks Ryan

You have poly or rubber mounts all around? I've heard of noise complaints from people that have used solid mounts in their diff/engine/etc, as it transmits drive train noises throughout the chassis. When I spotted my slop in the diff/mustache bar, it was moving less than 1/16 of an inch, so it doesn't take much. Other than that I have no other suspects for the time being. I am curious as to what it may be though... Good luck!

It doesn't seem excessive to me, but I'm not an expert. My car has a bit of slop in the tranny and the diff, and that adds up to almost an inch or so of movement on the tires/ground. I think my car has at least that much slop and it hardly ever produces a clunk now. Did you try that with the car on the ground? The extra weight of the car would/should help reproduce the culprit. Cheers Ryan~

Side post battery terminals should be banned...

Good advice cygnusx1! I found my clunk the same way, putting the car in gear on concrete, then pushing it back and forth against the gears, and I could duplicate the clunk. Since the car was in gear and not running, I had no problem getting underneath it and grabbing the exhaust/diff framework and pushing it back and forth. Low and behold I could see the diff rotate a bit on the clunks, it was the two bolts that hold the diff to the mustache bar and they had loosened up just enough to allow the diff to rotate back and forth just a wee bit, but enough to make a clunk. Especially between gear changes. Apparently those two nuts had backed off, or maybe I hadn't tightened them all the way when I reinstalled the diff some time ago. Either way, if the clunk comes back, there's the first place I'm going to check. Maybe locktite this time? However, I am running a v8, t56, new drive shaft, and R200 with a RT front mount and poly mustache bushings and rebuilt/stock halfshafts. Good luck! Ryan~

Lol no, the seran wrap probably wont hold up long. The vent lines weren't to hard. I was able to find stuff around the shop to plug those off, mostly with some rubber tubing, a bolt shoved into it, and a couple hose clamps to keep it there. The filler neck was the tricky one. But I was able to find these expandable rubber plugs that come in larger diameters at a hardware store in the plumbing section (sewer drain section). They are rubber in the center and have a large wing nut on one end with a bolt in the center. The more you tighten it the more the rubber expands. I think I used a 2" one, and it was a bit small, but after torquing the heck out of the wing nut it filled the filler neck. Then I just didn't take it out till I was done, ha... I think this is the one I used. If I remember right, I had to stack a few washers behind the wing nut in order to get the rubber to squash/expand enough. But in hindsight you could probably wrap it with some rubber tape, maybe? http://doitbest.com/Drain+fittings-Jones+Stephens+Corp-model-T31-002-doitbest-sku-419700.dib Also, I don't think you will have to worry about it, but watch out for welding near some of the vent tubes, fuel line tubes, and sending unit area's. These are soldered/brazed, and I quickly realized this after welding near some of those area's, and it doesn't take much heat to soften up the joints. Cheers Ryan~

My poor mans method; I pluged all vent lines and the fill inlet. I made a fitting that would connect to an air hose with a small valve on it, and it had a AN fitting on the other end that would screw to my fuel line fitting on the tank. Then I opened the valve for a short peroid, you dont need much for air pressure, the air will get out if there is a way, and if you let to much in you tank will expand like a blowfish(I know cause I forgot about the valve briefly once, lol). Then I took a cheap spray bottle filled with a water/soap solution, and spray it around welded areas. The leaks show up great as a bunch of bubbles, then I marked the leak with a Sharpie. Fix the leaks and repeat. I wish I had taken pictures of that part of the process. All I have is from Just before pressure testing. In the end the tank was so time consuming that I had wished that I had gone with a fuelcell. But it works as of now, so all is good. Cheers Ryan~

Have you rolled the car yet? The suspension/tires will bind a bit once back in contact with the ground after being up in the air, and it will 'settle' once it has moved a couple feet. I always notice this whenever I jack up the front/rear of the car. Other than that, I have no experience with those springs. Cheers Ryan~

I modified my original tank by cutting the top off of the lower portion and adding 5" all the way around for added fuel capacity and I also added a larger fuel pickup and plugged most of the other lines. I migg'ed it, and really wish I had taken it to my brother to have it tig welded. I pressure tested it after I finished welding, and I had 32 leaks! I ground them out and rewelded, then narrowed it down to about 17. Then more grinding, and this time off to the brother and it was down to just one, which was sealed off with some sealer. And in hindsight I wish I had installed a lower sump like you had done. I guess my advice here is to make sure you pressure test it. Other than that, it looks good! Cheers Ryan~

Man Jon, if you are going to have the car on a rotisserie it would be really easy to work with in regards to running the hardlines. And the SS braided lines aren't that hard once you do a couple. Check out the "how to" on youtube for assembly. As for the pump, I am also running that pump on my V8 Z with a deadhead regulator. However, I had the regulator for a different pump that didn't work out. I have run that Carter pump on another V8 with no regulator and it was fine. In hindsight, I wish I had run a return line and return regulator, they do seem to be more accurate, even though my current configuration seems to be fine. I ran SS hardline under the car and only have about a foot of SS flex line on either end. I made this line from under the car, I wish I was able to put it on a rotisserie! ha Here is my regulator and shortline to the carb, which is a 4150 style from Proform. Cheers Ryan~

It looks like a normal Z, cause I abandoned the reversed hinges, for the time being... I didn't get the range of motion that I was hoping for out of the hinges, and when it came to fabricating the latches, they were just coming out ugly. It was getting ridiculous and I needed the car on the road again so I reinstalled the original setup, more or less. I will come back to the project when I have more time, and the new hinges will be a scissor type hinge which will lift the hood and allow it to clear the cowl properly. In the meantime, the car needs sheet metal in the front. Cheers Ryan~