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Showing results for 'vlsd'.
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So I am looking for anyone that has swapped a 350Z VLSD diff into a S30 Chassis. Specifically what axles were used? I seem to be running into posts w broken links and incomplete information on the subject. The diff I am looking at is a VLSD from a 350Z. I know the mounting is different which isn't a big deal. I can work something out including possibly swapping internals to a long nose R200. It comes w stub axles and I will consider a custom axle push comes to shove but wondering if you guys have a hybrid axle solution to make it work? The inner flanges on the diff are 6 bolt and the outer is stock ATM but I can change that if need be. I have looked at weld in adaptors but they all seem to be to adapt the outer flange to a 300Z axle 4 bolt pattern. Which depending on what is avail I can do no issues there. I am just playing w options right now. Anything like a good writeup that i can use or even a solid starting point on which axles may or may not work is appreciated. That includes machining the stub axles on the diff. I was thinking about making 280Z flanges and welding to them to the existing stub axles the using the stock halfshafts. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance
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I was running around gear ratio's and kept noticing that almost all the LSD R200's all have ratio's that are kinda high. 3.545 was the lowest I had found out of an Infiniti. However, finally thinking, why not just look in newer Z cars, I found the 350z automatic has a diff with a 3.357 ratio and is a R200 VLSD like that of the Infiniti. So that leads me to my question: With the proper installation brackets to install a short nose R200 into a 240z, is there any reason as to why this differential will not work? Also, has anyone done this swap before?
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In search of a 94-95 Infiniti Q45 R200 VSLD; located in San Antonio, TX. I have a rear cover and inards but either lost/misplaced the housing and pinion. Lmk what you have that I can piece together.
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I didnt want to put 3 -5 ads for random parts so there is some parts from different cars I dont have pics of everything but ask me and you shall receive. I may have lots of other parts please message. All prices are OBO and dont include shipping. 240z $ 160 late Middle console with fusebox cover very clean from what I can remember $ 80-140 2 sets 1 has cracked lenses i started to refurbish the housing and painted plastic specific paint. arctic white ( may have harness too ) $ 30 tach $ 30 speedo $ 40 middle console inspection fuse box lid (not fusebox lid) $460 ACT 6 puck extreme non sprung clutch , pressure plate with Fidanza aluminum flywheel. The flywheel has less than 100 km Clutch has lots of life ! recommended to surface all mating parts and balance for best grip. $450 R200 long nose VLSD oddball differential dont know what its from exactly selling for a friend. IT could just need 240sx/j30 stubs to make hybrid axle But no time. Made a post about it here. $ 40-80 several driveshafts
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Long and short of it. Need some ideas. I have an R200 Long nose differential out of a Z31 300zx non turbo. I have swapped the ring gear onto a center section from an 1994 or 1995 infiniti J30, gaining myself an LSD. I am going to shim it slightly, clean it, and install the ring gear on and reinstall it into the housing finishing that part. Now here is the problem, the input shaft while having the same spline count, have different lengths. The short side can be popped out and the R200 input shaft from a 280z can be used. The problem is the longer side is indeed just that, longer. Thus I need to use the input shaft that came with the infiniti. The connundrum is that it is a 6 bolt pattern 3x2 and fairly large about 2-3 inches longer as it is a cup rather then a flat flange. Xenon31.com has quite a few methods, but rely on acquiring the highly lucrative 1988 Shiro VLSD axles for some of them. All the methods outlined is assuming a Z31 stub axle so would require converting the flange via whitehead performance or checkered flag racing conversion flanges for the stub axle. I'm putting out about 300hp with 330ft/lb according to the internet. So it would have to handle that. So my options I can see are as follows. 1. Cut the infiniti input shaft and weld the flange on from a 280z input shaft and use rebuilt stock half shafts. 2. Cut the infiniti input shaft and weld the flange on from a 280z input shaft and upgrade to wolf creek cv axles. 3. Retain the infiniti input shaft use infiniti cv axle (at least the differential side), shorten axle, and convert stub axle flange to match cv axle, will probably require 4 axles to use 4 differential sides. Is there some other methods that are staring me in the face that I am missing? I know welding axles is a pretty big no-no, but is welding the shaft of the input shaft to a flange acceptable? -
Next week my machinist will be cutting one pair of side axles (stub axles) that will fit in the 27 spline 2004/2005 Subaru WRX STi R180 rear CLSDs and 2006 VLSD. The flange end of the these side shafts will bolt up to the stock 240Z halfshafts. This pair is the prototype and will be made from 4140, heat treated, etc. What I need is someone who can test these for me starting in mid-June. That means you must have the Subaru diff in hand (or can get one quickly) and have a running, driving, reliable car that can put some street and track miles on it in a short time. That's a tall order but you'll get to keep these side axles if you follow through and send me feedback, pictures, and measurements.
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Diff Mount to fit 350Z R200 Short Nose in 75 280Z?
HusseinHolland replied to HusseinHolland's topic in Nissan V6 Forum
I think you missed what I said - mine has gear whine, not bearing noise. The only way to fix gear whine is to replace the worn ring & pinion. Once that wear pattern is established, you really can't 'adjust' it away. So, not much point considering a LSD for my existing diff. I do have the long nose diff. Since I have a good working LSD diff in the 350Z, to me it makes more sense to try to fit that, than to buy a used R200 long nose & rebuild that. I'm never racing this thing, so I don't see the VLSD being an issue in that regard. I will have to investigate the axle flange issue, since I would like to keep the speed sensors intact. -
Looking for a set of vlsd cv axles that came in the Shiro edition 300zx turbo. PLEASE let me know if you have a set
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hows it going guys i have a 1973 240z with a 327 v8. i am in the process of swapping in an ls1. i am currently trying to have a driveshaft made but i do not know what kind of diff is currently in the z. if someone could tell me, that would be awesome. it does have the viscous LSD orange sticker. here is a picture
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Shoot me a PM, thanks.
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I have a long nose r200 vlsd from the 88 ss. My question is can I take a vlsd carrier from a short nose r200 and use that carrier in a long nose r200?
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I know there's a lot of info out there on this topics but I'm just looking for some input from all you who have use these diffs. I currently have an R200 VLSD out of an 88 shiro special edition and I'm still debating weather to sell it and get an R200 out of a 91 Q45. I've done a lot of research and am very familiar with all the specs on each one but still somewhat confused on what will be better for my project. And just to fill you in, I'm working on a 72 240z with a stock LS1 T56 Swap, might see a day or two at track but will mainly be a daily driver. Just looking for some input on both these diffs. thanks in advance for any replies.
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Sorry to jump over to your board but I need some help and you guys seem to be the experts. I have transplanted a BMW M3 driveline into my Triumph TR6 which runs its power through a 95 Q45 R200 VLSD. The current ratio is factory (3.538:1) and the BMW Trans 5th gear is 1.0:1 and my tire diameter is 25". With the BMW tranny I pretty much can't use 1st gear and I'm turning 3K RPMs at 63mph. I'm trying to get it down to 2500 RPMs at 60mph so I'd like to find a supplier of ring and pinion sets for this diff. Does anyone make sets in the 3.0:1-3.3:1 range for my R200 VLSD? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dave
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I was looking for an internal pic of the VLSD from an 88 300zxt. The one I looked at today had the axles, but when the cover was removed it looked like a standard open diff to me. He was trying to tell me that the VLSD portion was located behind the Ring gear. I searched google pics, here, and Z31Performance and couldn't find a diffinitive pic so I'm asking if any one has one? In reading the Rear End FAQ in the drivetrain section, it states the VLSD aren't as grabby as the CLSD. I'm curious when spinning one axle on the VLSD, should the other axle spin the same direction like the CLSD as stated in the FSM? I couldn't find any reference to the VLSD in the 88 FSM. When I spun the axle on this supposed VLSD, the other axle went the other way like a normal open diff would do.
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I know there's not many of these around ...got one and just wondering what the price might be ...I think it came only in the 88 SS version
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Need some opinions on rear half shaft route with R200 VLSD
seattlejester replied to seattlejester's topic in Drivetrain
Something interesting I stumbled across http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/vlsd.htm Reposted below as I have found more and more posts disappearing off the internet. "Let me impart some of my wisdom onto you. Have you ever heard someone tell you, "It can't be done" or "It will not work?" To me, that is music to my ears. Too often that means the other guy was just too lazy or too stupid to achieve the desired end results. Don't always accept things for face value. With that in mind, I began my journey of doing something "that can't be done." Granted, modifying cv halfshafts is not rocket science, but I was told that special shafts would have to be made and I have found a way to use OEM pieces to make this conversion work. We just won't consider the spacer that has to be machined as non-OEM stuff. WHOOPS! Anyway, we know that with the VLSD we are forced to use the input shafts that slide into the diff because they are special to the VLSD. We also know that the VLSD shafts are way too long to use in the 240Z. Here was my philosophy in doing this conversion. I needed to use the VLSD input shafts for the diff side and I wanted to use the 280zxT companion flange and outer CV on the stub axle side. The 280zxT companion flange can be used with the 240Z stub axle and allows for the outer CV from the 280zxT to bolt to it. Now, here is where the secret comes in! I needed to find a shaft that used the race/cage design on the diff side and was compatible with the input shaft and that had the tripod design on the stub axle side and was compatible with the 280zxT outer CV. What was the magical shaft, 84-89 AMC Eagle 6 cylinder front CV. I will need to get the specific part #'s so that you can do this swap if you want. Let me just put down some info off the top of my head for now until I get the part #s with some explanatory pics. On the diff side, you will use the input shaft and the cage from the VLSD, I believe it is a #175 'cage.' You will use the #174 'race' that comes on the 84-89 AMC Eagle 6 cylinder CV. Don't worry, they are compatible. The #174 and #175 'race' only differ in the ID and # of splines. On the stub axle side, you will want to use the tripod from the 84-89 AMC Eagle 6 cylinder front CV and the case from the 280zx turbo. The same is true for this side, even though they have different part #'s they are compatible. Do not try to use the 4 cylinder CV stuff, it will not work. I will try to update with part #'s and a better explanation soon. This should be a good start for now. Here is the specific information to do the VLSD swap ***Input shaft(diff)- must use from VLSD ***Cage(diff side)- #175 cage(from VLSD) ***Race(diff side)- #174 race (from 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl) ***Shaft- OEM Replacement Axle # 87-7699-0 (from 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl) (from 80-83 AMC Eagle 4WD 6cyl) ***Complete Tripod(wheel side)- # 87-7801-0 (from 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl) ***Tripod Housing(wheel side)- 280zxt So, using the AMC shaft the #174 race is placed on the shaft for the diff side and is compatible with the #175 cage. The complete tripod from the 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl fits onto the shaft and is also compatible with the 280zxt tripod housing. Whala....you have the shaft that works. The shaft is 13" long. As I said before you will want to use the 240z stub axle with the 280zxt companion flange and the passenger side will require a .5" spacer. Good Luck." I have more or less already gone my route, but for others it may be a viable option. Edit: Apparently already on here. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/16316-vlsd-flange-pics-for-refernce/ -
I have a open r200 long nose with 3.91 gears and I have a r200 short nose with a VLSD ..I want to swap in the VLSD in to the long nose r200 ..will the swap work ? What power could it handle ? Would I be better off just getting a aftermarket LSD ? Sorry about all the questions
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I have done a lot of research on this and didn't find the answer (or found it but didn't understand it). I have a 72z with a 280Z long nose R200, 3.73 gears and a Quaife helical gear LSD that accepts 12mm or 10mm bolts. I want lower gearing for acceleration and have a T56 with 0.5 sixth gear, so cruising RPM will be no problem. I found a VLSD with 4.08 gears from a 91 300ZX (purchased in a short nose R200). It is on the way - I haven't seen it yet. Will the ring and pinion from the VLSD bolt into my long nose R200 with Quaife differential? Any help will be appreciated. If I missed the answer to this in my research, I apologize.
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Anyone used this diff or gears? I have the 95' Q45 short nose R200 and have been searching for a lower gear. This would be perfect if it's a direct swap over. Anyone have any idea?
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Hey Guys, I wondering if anyone here has come across a way to run a standard nissan r200 VLSD in their S30? I ask because for the last 3 years Ive running one in my Z without even knowing it. All this time I thought it was open diff, but in reality the Z31 Turbo axles do not enguage far enough into the diff on the drivers side to engauge the VLSD mechanism. Now I got to thinkning, would I be able to take a 240sx stub axle, and CV joint and install them onto my drivers axle and differential output? Maybe I can use pathfinder axles that are shorter, if the above combo is too long ( as the z31 axles are a super tight fit to start. Has anyone done this before or will I be breaking new ground? Thanks guys heres some pictures of the parts Im talking about My diff and axles (not an actual picture) the q45 stub axles that will engage the VLSD unit, I cant find a 240sx stub pic but same idea then swap the matching CV onto the z31 axle Any thoughts or experience? It would be nice to get it working as is, vs buying a 1000 dollar clsd which I know is better!
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Looking for a set of vlsd cv axles that came in the Shiro edition 300zx turbo. LMK if you have a set... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75509-photos-of-300zx-88ss-shiro-vlsd-cv-joints/#
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I am writing this because there are people that do not understand what a viscous limited slip differential (VLSD) is. There is nothing wrong with that, but let me clarify. A VLSD is different from a CLSD (Clutch Limited Slip Differential). The CLSD has actual clutches that engage when the rear wheels turn at different speeds from each other. The VLSD while performing the same task, does not have clutches. I am not going to go into the EXACT differences of the two diff's. You can research that elsewhere if curiosity gets the best of you. Instead I will give you a somewhat simple idea. The VLSD has a viscous fluid inside of a coupler. This coupler is part of the internal working of the LSD much like the clutches of a CLSD are. Obviously they are not the same though. Instead of clutches engaging when the wheels spin at different speeds, the inside and outside of the viscous coupler spin at different speeds from each other (this will make sense when you look at the picture).There are two sets of plates inside the viscous coupling. When they spin at different speed, the thick fluid inside is forced to try and catch each set of plates up with the other. When driving in a straight line, they are both spinning at the same speed, when turning a corner, one wheel spins faster than the other, in turn one side of the viscous coupling is spinning faster than the other. Below is a picture of the viscous coupling out of my Q45 VLSD. This is essentially what all viscous couplings will look like. Sadly you cannot see the inside of it because it is a sealed unit. This is one side of the coupler... And this is the other side. In the second picture you can see where the splines of the input shafts are. Then you can see the track where the planetary gears ride on the outside. You will notice that the spline section and the track for the gears are two separate pieces. These are the pieces that are allowed to slip differently from each other. When they do, the fluid inside tries to catch both sides up again, creating your LSD effect. Now some things to know about viscous LDS's... It has been noted that you CAN burn the fluid inside the viscous coupling by over heating it. If this happens you can damage the fluid and change its viscosity. When this happens, it is no longer able to catch the two pieces of the coupling up with each other like it should. Essentially, your coupling is burned up and needs to be replaced with another working unit. I do not actually KNOW of anyone this has happened to, but have heard of it happening. Changing how the viscous unit locks up by changing the fluid inside... Sorry but, you can't. You cannot change the fluid inside of the viscous coupling. It is sealed, you cant get in there without destroying it. Keep in mind this is NOT the same as changing the differential fluid, (which will still have zero effect on how the coupling operates). What some people do is actually shim the viscous coupling tighter. This doesn't really change how fast the unit locks up, but it does sort up wedge the coupling in place and causes it not to spin in the first place. Some people do this wit burned out units to try and help get their LSD effects back. Kind of a kludge fix. How do you know if you have a VLSD or a CLSD? Again if you refer to the pictures above, you will notice a washer in the center of the viscous coupling. This is to keep the longer input shaft from stabbing all the way through the viscous coupling from the wrong side. If this happened you would actually lock both sides together making a solid diff. Now before you get any brilliant ideas about doing this to lock your diff by knocking that center washer out... there is more to it than that due to the differences in the two input shafts. But I will not go into that here. So, looking through the holes where the input shafts plug into is one way to tell. You will see that washer in the center. Another way to tell, is to look at the input shafts them selves. One of the splined sections on one axle of VLSD input shafts, will be substantially longer than on the other axle. This is so it can plug all the way into the viscous coupling. On a regular CLSD they are close to if not the same length splines. The third and hardest way, is to take the diff apart and visually inspect it. I hope this clears up some questions and common misconceptions about the VLSD. Hopefully someone will sticky this so the information is easily found.
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This is a long shot, but if there's any out there (specifically the extended passange axle for vlsd enguagement) please pm me. Ill cover all shipping costs. Thank you
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Also looking at VLSD - I read on one site that that requires a longer shaft to engage the Viscous coupling in the diff? Anyone who can clarify this?
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Before you hammer me to bad YES I DID DO A SEARCH AND READ PAGES OF GOOD INFO-- But before I buy I just need to know for sure if I can use a J30 short nose VLSD in my R200 open housing. I know it has the odd 6 bolt stubs but if i'm reading this right I can re-use my open stubs into the new carrier and retain my u-joint halfshafts for now. I also realize that I must re-use my ring gear (3.54 ratio) with my original pinion shaft. thanks for answering this question before I commit on the J30 stuff
