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Showing results for tags 'Rust repair'.
Found 7 results
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Relatively new to thinking about owning a car of this age but, currently live in Japan and have been looking for an older car that will eventually come back to the States with me (i wont have to pay to ship 1 vehicle but still needs to be 25 yo to avoid other things). I fell in love with the Fairlady Z at first sight. I went and looked at/drove one for the first time just this weekend. A 79' 5-speed MT with an L28 that is not original to the car so it has some very low mileage (14k Km). Runs great but has some other issues. it needs a lot of exhaust work as the muffler and most of the ducts are very rusted (I probably would just look to replace it all even though I could probably keep the exhaust manifold.) lots of smaller replacements (wiring, hoses, rubber odds and ends) questionable rust on the undercarriage with a questionable coating to cover it up which is my main concern and why I'm posting. I took quite a few pictures of what i saw and I'm trying to get an idea of how bad the rust may be, how much work it will be to fix up the rust, or if there is anything anyone can gleam from seeing these pictures that i might of missed (still new to this) I appreciate any help anyone can give Thanks all
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Hey Guys , May dad passed away a few years ago and left me his 280zx. It has some really bad rust on the rear quarter panels all around the small windows and rear corners. Floor pans and frame rails are also completely shot...Little bit of rust at the base of the wind shield but i can have a friend fab that entire piece. My question is this, Where can i buy the rear quarter panels and floorpans/rails??? Also, How hard is it to remove the quarter panels? Are they just tack welded in?? If so, it seems it would be very easy to replace for a good welder. Any help would be great! Getting a new frame isnt an option as it would not have the sentimental value it has now. Thanks guys
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Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else? I'd like to avoid removing the battery tray if possible/practical. Thanks in advance, Jughead
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Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on what to do for the next step of my 240z project. I have the car stripped down to a rolling shell with the engine bay primered and the underside undercoated already. I'm debating between sanding down the exterior and interior to factory primer, repairing any trouble spots in the process, and then shooting paint OR having the interior and exterior media blasting with fine crushed glass (hopefully less likely to warp) and then shooting paint. The factory paint looks okay. There are few spots that have cracked and are peeling but overall it's not bad. Some spots will have to come down to bare metal anyway for repairing. Which route do you guys think I should take? I have a large compressor and the tools to do the sanding. Media blasting would make the following easier, though: One big issue is rust. There are several rust spots that I'm concerned about and am not sure what to do about. There's rust around the inside perimeter of the roof. There's rust inside the passenger and driver side vent plenums that run to the engine bay. There's rust inside the cowl area. There's some rust in the rockers (not too bad) and the dog legs are pretty rusty. I boroscoped most of these places and have some pictures below. The worst of it all is in the dog legs. In the other spots there rest seems to be bubbling a little but mostly on the surface -- some pitting. I'lllet the pictures do the talking. The car: Dog legs: I will most likely be replacing these. Inside the rear wheel-well area above the dog legs: Around the the inner perimeter of the roof: It's rusted most of the way around and the rust goes into the recessed area all the way around. This is perhaps only surface rust and would come off with a wire wheel, but the issue is accessing this area. This is where blasting would be nice and this is one of my biggest concern areas. Inside the driver and passenger vent air plenums: Some other rust around the hatch sill: What do you guys think I should do about the rust areas? Should I get everything blasted as best they can do then seal it? Should I sand/wire brush everything I can and treat it with some ospho or other converter then seal it and use cavity wax? I have these products on hand. I've already put a lot of money into this project so I'm all in and want this to be near show quality and last a long time. I don't know if it's worth it to split the seams on some of that rust or not. How hard is it to remove the roof? I did my own floor pans, battery box, and frame rails.
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Hi all new member here. I've been browsing all the build threads lots of good info on this site. I'm in the market for a Z car that I can restore, obviously I would like to purchase a car with the a minimal amount of rust. I'm planning on doing the restoration work myself . I found a 1 owner 78' 280Z that has a very clean interior, it's not currently running but I'm not concerned about that. What is you opinion on the rust? I think the undercarriage looks clean, no rust around the gas door and the battery box looks clean. The rust on the fenders is really bad though. I was considering using patch panels. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o03c All opinions are welcome, Thanks,
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Hey guys, I got a 74 260z a few months ago and the paint and body is in very good condition...... on the surface. I don't know much about the history of the car, so I don't know where it's originally from or where it's been most it's life. There are obvious signs of deep rust though... above the tail lights and underneath the car on one of the frame rails. It has rusted through, so I'm sure there's more rust hiding somewhere else. Other parts like floor pans seems like surface rust. Nothing going on in the battery tray area. My question is, is it worth it to sand blast the car and strip it down to see what other rust is hiding beneath? I plan on keeping the car forever and don't want to start building/modding and end up having to strip it down later if it's going to be an issue.
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Hello everyone, I bought my Z in 2007 in New Mexico for 600 bucks with what appeared to be not much rust ( and it still is a fairly rust free car). It ran when I put a little fuel in the lines and I did a bit of work to drive it back to houston. Got it back to town and funds dried up after I couldn't get it to pass the state safety inspection. Fast forward to now and things and great I got most of the parts on the surface that I thought I would need. Today the brakes were bled, the back were easy but when I got to the front the front brakes wouldn't bleed. The brakes now have pressure, they didn't have pressure till I bled the back brakes and this was one of the reasons why it didn't pass inspection on top of the wind shield wipers not working. Any hints or tips I was thinking of running air through the lines to clear a possible blockage. Tomorrow I am doing a radiator flush, and sunday I am doing the popular windshield wiper motor replacement with a acura integra motor. Mondays plan is to start her up and get her to pass inspection( then it will be body work and interior ) The brakes were also stuck when I tried to move the car, a little work with a rubber hammer soon had them free, pictures will be up as soon as I can find the folder I put them in. Please people enjoy the thread as I refresh my 240z
