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Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested.

This post is to present some of the progress (with pictures that I have made (with alot of help) on my 280ZX. The first generation ZX (S130) doesn't get much respect from the early-Z crowd, but I have always preferred the more-finished look of the ZX. I got mine as my first car in 1996 and it hit 200,000 miles in 2001, I pulling the engine to rebuild it and decided I would clean up/paint the engine bay and restore the body. Here is some of the progress... This is just a test photo, since I've never posted before. I will post more pictures in the following posts...

I finally got the 5.3 and 4l60E swapped in after about 2 1/2 years of collecting parts. I have obtained alot of useful information and parts from this website so I thought I would share my experience with the forum. If you have any questions about the Z or ideas on how to do something better please post it. I hope you guys enjoy! This is how it started for me. About 4 years ago I was watching a video on Youtube of a LS swapped Z car and thought, that looks like fun. So here I am. I purchased the car from a gentleman in Colorado that had previously bought it from California. It was his "backup Z" incase his was wrecked or stolen. He decided to liquidate so that's when I swooped in and got it for a mere $2,000. It was a great deal. An all original Z car with very minimal rust and 85k miles. I trailered the car home and I immediately started in on the L28 engine and getting it running. I'm sure it sat for about 22 years from what I could tell because it still had a 1986 California liscense tag on it. The goo in the gas tank was not easy to clean. Within 2 weeks it was running and I was driving everywhere. Then the parts collecting started for the swap. I'm more of a picture and video kind of person so I'll keep the story time short and start in on the specs and pics. All custom components were made and installed by myself except the exhaust,fan shroud and JCI swap parts. Engine: 5.3 LM7 from a 2001 Avalanche Current Performance Fuse/Relay box Texas speed 224R camshaft .581 .581 lift, 224 224 duration, 112 lobe sep F-body oil pan and front accesories. LS6 intake and injectors Heat sink ignition coils Bosch 044 fuel pump with Corvette fpr/filter Sanderson shorty headers exhaust 2, 2 1/2" pipe from headers going into a single 3" with magnaflow muffler. Electric cutout after the Y JCI swap kit Trans: 4L60E Transgo shift kit 3200 Vigilante stall converter B&M Prostick shifter Diff: R200 with stock axles, 3.54 ratio Phantom Grip limited slip unit Weight: 2860lbs with 1/2 tank and all spare tire essentials 1/4 Best so far with stock 14" pizza cutter tires is: 12.32 at 112mph Sept 6, 2013 12.28 at 112mph Sept 27, 2013 11.90 at 115mph Oct 11, 2013 M/T slicks 11.74 at 115mph Oct 25, 2013 The ride when it made it to it's new home Engine bay cleaning and paint Engine ECM wiring and integrating the Current Performance fuse/relay box ECM brackets Maxi fuse setup I used to get rid of fusable links. mounted under ac/heater blower Transmission (4L60E) with 3200 stall 1997 Honda Odyssey brake light switch (left) needed for the automatic lockup solenoid. The factory switch (right) only has a NC contact and I need both NC and NO contacts B&M Prostick Fuel pump setup. Mounted on stock rubber isolated mount and then relocated behind diff 3/8 Aluminum Fuel line running in factory brackets all the way up to the drivers side of engine Installing Phantom Grip in diff Custom made coil brackets, 5.3 truck brackets set coils to high and interfered with fuel line Custom made battery bracket Aluminum sheet metal fan shroud and Zirgo cooling fan T I made to run the steam vent lines to External trans cooler in addition to radiator trans cooler and lines Air intake setup. Two 3.5" mandrel bent aluminum 90s and a few rubber couplers with 85mm MAF. K&N 4" filter Exhaust As she sets now. Sept. 16, 2013 Track time! My Z sitting between two heavy weights. It looks like a go cart in comparison. Link to some videos; Walk around http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYIVVa7ghPw Trans testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRIn6NH2S5w Dyno run https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0E18f-T0MQ Sound clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDd6sj8DLdI

hey guys i'v been looking on line for answers to solve my sloppy rear suspension, i have the tokico lowering kit 'springs and blue shocks.' i have a 5.3 lm7 with a saginaw 4 speed trans. stripped interior ' no dash' and new 195/70r14 tires, and new poly bushings all around. the set up feels alright when im cruising around and in straight lines but when i start going 65ish mph through a long fast turn i feel the rear wanting to spin. 1) I wonder if my car is unbalanced since i have the v8 up front and only the fuel tank in the back?i did position the engine as close to the fire wall as possible when i made my motor mounts. 2) And if its not because of weight distribution is it because i dont have the correct spring rates for my set up? what would you recommend on the springs F and R ?