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Showing results for tags 'nos'.
Found 5 results
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For Sale- NOS 280z coupe backglass. PPG brand- part# FB1222 Been in warehouse for decades. Rare part perfect for your restoration. NLA No scuffs or scratches! $150 plus PayPal fee/Shipping
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I bought this fender new from the Nissan/Datsun dealer in Dallas around 1985. I ended up repairing my old fender and never used this one. Today, this fender is rarer than hens teeth. If you are looking for a NOS gray right front fender, Part number 63100-N4700, here you go. As I understand it, all early Datsun fenders were painted gray and later they changed to black. Part number stamped at factory plus tape with part number still intact. I asked what might be a fair price in Price Check but apparently no one knows what it is worth or doesn't want to set the market. So how about I offer it at $850 or best offer. I called several Dealers and they said they haven't had S-30 fenders in years. High end repops that may or not fit and "rebuilt" fenders are being offered now and again when available for over $600. Shipping could run $400 or more, please do your research. I can take it to a UPS store to be packed and shipped at buyers expense. However, Wednesday, March 6, 2019, I am driving straight up I-35 thru Oklahoma City and Wichita to I-80 and west to Kearny, NE. If you live anywhere near that route, I can bring it your way. Look at the pictures closely, no dents, no issues, some minor shelf and box wear. Might be the only one in existence??? Where are you going to get another one?
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In 1985 I bought a new 70-78 right front fender from the Datsun/Nissan dealer in Dallas. I ended up not using it and has been stored in my shop for the last 35 years. This is the earlier gray fender, not the later black one. I am aware it is quite rare. Actually, I forgot about it until about a year ago. Used and cheap repops are going for around $200. Better quality repops and rebuilt original fenders are priced all the way up to and over $600 if you can find one. These have not been available for a number of years. Any qualified help on price would be deeply appreciated. I want to find this guy a new home. Look closely, no dents just some mild box/shelf wear.
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I've been contemplating putting together a simple wet nitrous system for my L28ET build and I wanted to throw out a few ideas out to get peoples opinions. Firstly, let me outline my wants for the set up: 1.) It has to be clean. I've spent a lot of time making the engine as clean as possible; everything will be tucked and shaved and having a bunch of extra lines running all over just won't do. I'm not trying to hide the fact that I'm using nitrous, in fact the tank will be in plain sight. 2.) It has to be simple. I will hardly ever have the opportunity to use it (think 2-3 strip visits per year), so a fancy direct port, multi nozzle system is overkill to the extreme. It's mostly about having fun for me, not being super competitive. 3.) It has to be affordable. I have no problem spending money on quality components (although I can do without the purple anno) and I don't plan skimping on things such as the tank or solenoids, areas where safety is concerned. But as I previously mentioned, multiple nozzles and fancy extras are not needed or wanted. Okay! Now my questions: My ideal place to mount to mount the nozzle would be the core plug on the back of my intake manifold. I like this because it is simple to drill out, and install the nozzle with a couple of nuts and some rtv, the plumbing is short, and the solenoids could easily be hidden in the cowl area without being far from the nozzle.. Besides the ease of mounting, it is also 100% reversible where drilling holes into my shaved manifold is not! The question here is will this be able to evenly fog the intake chamber despite being opposite the throttle opening? I'm no fluid dynamics engineer, but images of pissing into the wind come to mind... My second choice would be to mount the nozzle in the intake pipe, post intercooler, where it comes through the rad support. I've already found a nice low profile nozzle that could fit nice and snuggly at all the right angles, allowing for the plumbing to be tucked along the top of the fender. The issue here is the distance from the throttle body, and the recirculating BOV in between them; there is also the issue of the bends in the pipe creating the opportunity for pooling. Will I have issues if the BOV opens and some of the mixture gets sent through a hot turbo? Is the nozzle too far from the throttle body (everywhere I read says 6" is ideal)? Are the bends a big enough issue to make this unsafe? I'm having Casey (SenzaPari) fab up a nice pie cut piece for this section and the bends are looking very smooth and gradual... Lastly, I'd like to ask for any general advice, or ideas that you might have. I know I'm not the first to go down this route, so if you've got an idea that you think fits my plan then please share it! Thanks HybridZ members, and sorry for the trademark long winded post!
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I have mounted 2 buttons on my steering wheel and am not sure the best way to connect with wire. I am thinking about using a coiled cable, as I have seen before, but I would prefer to use a 'spring clock', which is how most cars connect electrical to the steering wheel in a discrete way. I am worried that a coiled cable could get caught up on the steering column when I turn the wheel all the way to one side. The steering rack on a 72 240z should be 2.6 turns lock to lock, which mean a coiled cable would have to wrap 1.3 times around the steering column. What do you think?
