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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
Found 7 results
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My 280z has an AZ zcar 4 barrel Holley carb manifold on it and I have deleted the PCV, that would normally vent back into the stock EFI manifold, with just a filter venting to atmosphere. The engine runs great and pulls hard but I've noticed oil fumes while Im driving and engine braking, now I have no engine oil leaks and my engine doesn't burn oil, so i have isolated the smell to the air filter that Ive attached to the Crankcase vent tubing on the side of the engine(shown in pictures). My question is, can I run any inline PCV valve with a rubber hose running down toward the underside of the car with an air filter on the end? or does the PCV need vacuum? I know I'm losing some power by venting straight to atmosphere, I understand that vacuum in the crankcase can increase horsepower in some instances, but I mainly want to fix the oil smell. Thanks.
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Hi everyone, Thought I'd post my layout for an oil cooler with measurements and the like if anyone wants to replicate or take some design cues from it in the future. I'm planning on running it bosozoku style with the lines outside and will probably tuck the cooler just behind the bumper but visible. As for the pieces I'm going to be using I have the quantity, name and number listed: (1x) Earls Oil Cooler 4x13x2" 41308ERL (2x) Jegs -8AN Polished Banjo- 555-101022 (1x) 15' -8AN SS Braided hose 555-100923 (2x) Jegs -8AN Polished straight fitting 555-101002 (2x) Jegs -8AN to 3/8" NPT 45* fitting 555-110127 I was planning on using the 280zxt sandwich plate I have but realized that I don't have the center piece to it so I'm lanning on using the transdapt 1313 model sandwich adapter. Stay tuned for pictures.
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I have a 260z thats wiring wise all stock. My fuel, clock and tach(sometimes) gauges all work. My voltage is stuck somewhere in negative so I'm not sure if thats electrical issues involving alternator but i don't mind that one not working. My oil and water gauge does not work. I have a newly bought oil sender, the bullet type water temp sender(is this the sender) with single bullet connector connected but the sensor next to it with two wires coming out isn't connected because they were cut completely off. I took off gauge and put battery + terminal to ign(G) and the black wire to ground. i then grounded my oil wire(Y/B) and it only moves to the 0 position. i thought it was supposed to move all the way? Is the gauge bad? Any help is appreciated as i really can't afford one right now and don't want to run my car without either of these gauges. Also how can i tell if my water pump is working? I have no leaks but i feel the engine gets very hot very quickly. I took the radiator cap off and i thought bubbles would come out or you would see the coolant flowing or moving but it was very still. I'm afraid thats also bad.
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I'm in the process of redoing a couple of thins on my l28et swapped 280z and i noticed that the oil line for the turbo is kinked in few places. I want to replace it while the intake and exhaust manifold is off. I dont want to go cheap but I also dont want to spend a 100 dollars. I was thinking maybe SS line or should I just get a brake line and bend it. I done some research and it left me with more questions than answers. I did find this http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=OL-AN4-90S-51&Category_Code=FUSM and i was wondering what are your thought on it and maybe what else besides that would I need to mount it. Thanks guys. PS also I want to upgrade the turbo in the future to T3/T4 so I want something future proof.
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While researching oil filters for my L-Series build I came across a thread on another forum ('Bob is the oil guy') which I thought would be a good reference for members here. The thread, written by a dedicated guy known as 'Big-O-Dave', was made to provide a comparison of oil filters threaded for 3/4"x16. I've tried contacting him via PM, but it seems he is no longer active on the forum. He did give permission to others to repost his findings, so he should be fine with it here (and if not, you can always contact me to have it removed Dave!). Most of the pictures were posted on another forum all together, but I consolidated them here (instead of just having PhotoBucket links) to allow easy side-by-side comparisons. A few of the ones listed are standard L-Series items, so theoretically they should all be cross compatible. If anyone tries one and has fitment issues please post here so we can remove it from the list. Personally I'm curious to see if I can run one of the longer filters on the 280zx oil cooler adapter... Enjoy. Sources: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/343533/Some_cut-open,_virgin_oil_filt#Post343533 http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/414873-here-are-a-few-oil-filter-photos-new-additions-by-big-o-dave.html#post299461
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Hey guys, hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction. I recently rebuilt my l28et that is in my 77 280z. I took my time with the rebuild and checked all the bearing clearances and replaced any and all gaskets. I also cleaned all the oil and coolant passages and made sure to triple check everything during the rebuild. I purchased a new turbo oil pump to ensure that everything in the motor was at least mostly new. Well fastforward and the motor is back in and I am attempting to prime it for first start and break in. I took the oil pressure sending unit out as well as all the spark plugs and oil fill cap. I crank the motor (or have my brother crank it) while the other looks for oil flow through the oil pressure sending unit port as well as oil on the cam. Well we have neither!! I cant figure out what it could be as the oil filter is a new bosch which I have never had problems with bosch filters pre-rebuild. And the pump is brand new and the dizzy shaft gear and pin seem fine. Any ideas would be greatly appriciated. Thanks guys
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I recently rebuilt my '82 l28et for my '77 and am having oil pump issues now. The car idles fine but with cold oil my mechanical only sees around 20 psi and as it warms it goes down to 12-15 like it use to. My worry worry is that with cold oil the car use to see 45-50 psi at idle and increase with revs to 60 or so. With revs the pressure never goes above 20 psi. I installed the pump and shaft like the "how to rebuild your datsun OHC" book states but ran into a problem with the oil squirt hole not lining up with the punch mark on the pump shaft gear. With the marks lined up the dizzy shaft end isn't even close to being lined up. When I line the tang of the dizzy side up to where it needs to be the marks on the shaft and pump housing no longer line up. The pump is off an '83 turbo motor where as the shaft is from the '82 motor. I don't see how the shaft mark needs to be lined up with the pump housing since the shaft just spins along with the motor but maybe I'm wrong in this thinking. I am planning on getting a different gauge to see if maybe my gauge is faulty. Taking the oil cap off I do see oil squirting up to the cam but I am not sure if it is a sufficient amount. Any ideas on what may be causing my lack of oil pressure. Oh and the oil pick up tube is free and clear from debris as well. Thanks guys, Kevin
