duragg Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 As summer hits my DCOE 40 240 seems to idle unreliably and even quitting sometimes like it is starving for fuel. Other Triple'rs have heat soak issues? What are you using for heat shielding? Also, what impact if any does water temp have on running? Do triples prefer any particular water temp? Thanks. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondersparrow Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 I had a similar issue a couple of summers ago, it turned out I was straight up boiling the gas in the carbs. I both wrapped my exhaust and made a heat shield out of a chunk of scrap stainless and some leftover pieces of header blanket. Its just fastened on using a couple of exhaust clamps that fit the header tubes. It made a huge difference. I went from the carbs spontaneously bursting into flames to them being cool to the touch after a track session. It is a track car and I do agree with people that say you shouldn't wrap the exhaust on a dd. Its a little hard to see, but here is a pic... As for temps, it should run the same as anything else. Check that you have enough timing advance. IME triples need a couple degrees extra. Are you using vacuum advance at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 I am running a stock exhaust manifold which helps keep the temps down. I also plan to make a heat shield out of scrap stainless as wondersparrow did but I plan to fasten it to the lower carb-to-manifold bolts. Should keep everything nice and cool, plus I won't have to be as paranoid about possible fuel leaks onto the exhaust manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Wandersparrow: Thanks for the pics. While we are here, could you explain your fuel delivery manifold? I need a better fuel delivery system with a proper gauge visible in the cockpit. Why not wrap headers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Oh, No to the Vacuum Advance. I think I set it at a total of 35 right now. I had intake leaks so removed the manifold and lapped it flat, new gasket, reassembled, reset timing, reset and balanced flow with my German flo-thing, reset idle, reset idle needles, reset idle, reset idle needles and test drove. I don't drive the car much and am replacing the L24 with a flattop F54 and N42 head this summer. Will make a new heat shield tomorrow and zoom around some this weekend. Hope that solves my idle stalling. Thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondersparrow Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Heh, the fuel system on my car is a bit of a joke, but it works. On the firewall there is a maifold and from that manifold are three equal length hoses going to each carb. I guess the theory is, if the lengths are equal, they should each see the same fuel pressure and flow. At the other end of the manifold is a gauge (one could easily swap it out for a sending unit to a dash gauge. I like the idea, but its a little messy. I want to change out the hoses for something steel braided before it hits the track this summer. I would also like to eventually make a return system, but that might wait for when/if I switch to EFI. /me opens the extrudabody site again and does some drooling. As for not wrapping headers on a dd. Depending on how and where you drive, it might not be that big a deal. Wet wrap holds water, so if it rains, and things don't get hot enough to evaporate all the water, you get rust issues. If it was a dd, I would spend the few extra bucks and get it ceramic coated. My plan for mine is to actually replace the header with something better and get that ceramic coated. In due time I guess. It turns out that digging an old race car out of the back of a barn and trying to make it go fast again can be hard on the wallet. Who knew? hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 (edited) It's simple to make a shield. Go to home depot and buy a sheet of galvanized steel. Make a cardboard template. Snip out the steel sheet, leave about 1" extra on the drivers side, front and back. Fold the 1" extra down all the way around to stiffen it up. Use a vise and a hammer. There are a few places directly under the carbs with tap holes, and/or the retaining screws for the bowl drain covers. Attach using one of those methods. I lined mine with foiled fiberglass mat. Carbs are always cool now. Note: the inboard edge of my shield is pressed up against the header and intake, which holds it in place there. I used copper pipe to make stand-offs under the carbs. My only gripe is that I didn't use fuel proof paint on it. Now it looks like a$$ from the runs in it. Edited May 13, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Last question: What is "dd"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Last question: What is "dd"? Daily Driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondersparrow Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 My first shield was like that, but I wasnt a big fan. I found it to be difficult to get on and off quickly. I guess that is only really a concern on a track car. I also didn't like how if there were fuel drips, the fire was right under the carbs. Both setups work. I like that I can take my intake off without taking off the heat shield now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 I find running a 160F thermostat really helps in the summer months. So did Nissan, they specified it for 'Tropical' environments. Some underhood components are over 40F cooler with a 160 thermostat than with a 180 or 190! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 Thanks all. Any of you drill the missing 4th Progression hole on DCOE 40 151s? The Spanish 151s have a crappy 3 progression hole setup causes lean on tip-in of throttle. I really enjoy the challenge of triples. This is NOT a DD though. Building a flattop F54, N42, cammed triples, CR5sp to replace L24. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 The challenge of setting up, and driving triples...and the reward! +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 (edited) I had a tray made up from stainless steel then added a piece of stainless checker plate inside the tray with a bit of an air gap to further reduce heat transfer to the carbs. I used the DEI Heat Screen Radiant Matting with the Thermo-Tec Heavy Duty Spray Adhesive underneat the tray to keep heat out. I sealed the edges with a copper Prematex high temp gasket material to keep the fiberglass from fraying. I extended the tray past the velocity stacks in case there is any fuel leaking out of them. Made a huge difference from the original heat shield that came with the car. With the original aftermarket heat shield the fuel would boil out of the floats and run out of the velocity stacks and make a stinky mess. Now with the extended tray it can catch any drips but it rarely runs out at all now. First test was a 700 km run down to Canby (the loooong way taking the 101 on the west coast of WA) and I didn't have a single problem at all. Car runs great and doesn't stutter in the summer heat in traffic and I don't have to leave the garage door open half the night to air out the gasoline smell. Edited May 20, 2011 by FricFrac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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